GLY COASTAL GEOMORPHOLOGY NOTES
|
|
- Loraine McKinney
- 5 years ago
- Views:
Transcription
1 GLY COASTAL GEOMORPHOLOGY NOTES DR. PETER N. ADAMS 1. Introduction and Basics (Motivations, Classification, Landforms, Sediments, and Littoral Cells) This course is about a narrow, yet very dynamic and important portion of the Earth s surface - the coastal zone. The coast is a unique setting because it sits at the interface of two very different environments, the terrestrial surface and the ocean, each of which are governed by very different sets of physical processes. Because of this unique position in the landscape, the coast is shaped by physical processes native to both land and sea, and a major portion of the course will be devoted to understanding the workings and results of these physical processes. In this section, I ll outline some of the reasons for studying coastal geomorphology, recapitulate a brief history of some notable past thoughts on the subject, discuss some successful classification schemes, identify key features of passive and active margin coasts, and broadly overview the currency of the coastal realm (sediment), its movement through littoral cells, and its accounting (for) in budgets Importance of Studying Coastal Geomorphology Population, Development, and Infrastructure. 30 coastal states contain 62% of US population and 12/13 largest cities 53% of US pop. lives w/in 50 miles of the shore (83% in Australia) in 1973: 440,000 km of global coastline / 3.3 billion humans = 13 cm each today: 440,000 km of global coastline / 6.7 billion humans = 6.5 cm each Date: January
2 Natural Hazards, Climate Change, Global Biota. Hurricanes: 2004 and 2005, examples of coastal change on Dauphine Island after Ivan and Katrina Inundation from eustatic sea level rise Sea cliff retreat from climate induced changes in storminess Biota, habitat, and coastal ecology - the coastal ecosystem is diverse, unique, and valuable. Understanding of coastal processes assists our ability to protect this resource Geologic History and Building of the Stratigraphic Record. Coasts are modern depositional environments which illustrate the processes of erosion and sedimentation By understanding the distributions of facies created in these depo-environments, we are well equipped to interpret the stratigraphic record, and therefore, better explain the geologic history of a region 1.2. Historical Perspective. This comes largely from pp.9-19 of Woodroffe (2002). (1) Greeks (Herodotus) and the Nile delta (2) da Vinci and the Pontine Marshes in Italy - 15th century (3) Captain Cook s voyages shed light on many coastal reaches worldwide (4) Early geologists (Hutton, Lyell) recognized the coast as a modern depositional environment responsible for sedimentary rock generation. (5) Early geomorphologists (de Beaumont, Huxley) identified the link between process and form along the coast. (6) Darwin theorized on the origins and evolution of reefs and atolls. (7) Even Grove Karl Gilbert (our main man in American geomorphology) interpreted abandoned terraces in Utah to testify to the presence of Pleistocene lakes in the western U.S. (8) Early 20th century coastal evolution theories included Douglas Johnson s application of William Morris Davis s geographical cycle concept that interpreted landforms as initial, youthful, and mature, which he used to explain observations along the New England coast 2
3 (9) An enormous step forward in understanding coastal geomorphology and processes took place during World War II and in the Cold War era which followed. At this time, significant Naval resources were invested in detailed studies of wave shoaling, nearshore currents, sediment transport, and beach behavior. Much of this work was conducted by scientists at Scripps Institution of Oceanography (namely Harald Sverdrup, Walter Munk, Francis Parker Shepard, and Douglas Inman) during the middle of the 20th century. We transition by discussing a bit more of the history of coastal science in the next section on coastal classification Coastal Classification. An incomplete summary of coastal classification schemes is provided on pp of Komar (1998) Submergence vs. Emergence. Johnson (1919, 1925), mentioned earlier for his application of Davisian principles, was also responsible for championing a coastal classification scheme based on relative rise (submergence) or fall (emergence) of the sea relative to the land. Submergent coasts display drowned features such as flooded coastal river valleys, abandoned barrier islands, or fjords. Emergent coasts exhibit raised features such as elevated marine terraces (formerly wave cut platforms), dry coral reefs above sea level, and wave cut notches in sea cliff walls Tectonic Classification of Coasts. Just like so many other disciplines in the Earth sciences, the subject of coastal geomorphology may be viewed in the context of our grand unifying theory of Plate Tectonics. The classic paper by Inman and Nordstrom (1971) sets up the organization scheme for large-scale coastal geomorphic character based on tectonic setting. Gross topographic character of coastal zones is related to position on plates of the tectosphere. First order classification consists of three classes: Collision edge (a.k.a. Leading edge), Trailing edge, and Marginal sea. Along active continental margins, the following scenarios can occur: (1) At continent-continent convergent margins, landlocked mountainous terrain forms (example: Himalayas and Tibetan plateau), so no coast forms to be classified. 3
4 (2) At continent-oceanic convergent margins, subduction takes place forming mountainous terrain on the overriding continental plate, a narrow continental shelf, and a deep trench at the plate interface (example: west coast of South America). This configuration forms the first sub-class of Collision coasts known as Continental collision coasts. (3) At oceanic-oceanic convergent margins, island arcs form (examples: Japan, Aleutian Islands). This configuration forms the second sub-class of Collision coasts known as Island-arc collision coasts. Along passive continental margins, the following scenarios can occur: (1) New trailing-edge coasts may form near a young (recently emerged) spreading center or rift (examples: Gulf of California, Red Sea). This configuration forms the first sub-class of Trailing-edge coasts known as Neo-trailing-edge-coasts. (2) Where a passive continental margin has another passive margin on the opposite side of the same continent, the potential for terrestrial erosion and deposition is low, because there is no major elevated sedimentary source terrain (mountain belt) whose erosional products could contribute a sediment load to enhance the dynamics of the coastal environment (examples: East and west coasts of Africa). This configuration forms the second sub-class of Trailing-edge coasts known as Afro-trailing-edgecoasts. (3) Where a passive margin is opposite an active margin (Continental collision coast), significant sedimentary load is provided to the trailingedge-coast due to abundant source terrain and disproportionately large drainage basins from the skewed distribution of continental topography (examples: East coast of North America). These coasts can build wide continental shelves and may exhibit extensive barrier island systems, due to the large sediment load present.this configuration forms the third sub-class of Trailing-edge coasts known as Amero-trailing-edge-coasts. Along continental margins fronted by an Island arc, significant protection from the open ocean exists, thereby changing the inherent characteristics of the coast. These are Marginal sea coasts and form a separate first-order class Shepard s Classification. As noted byinman and Nordstrom (1971), secondorder features of local geologic influence, and erosion/deposition (of spatial scale 100km), can also be used to classify the coastal landscape. Francis Parker Shepard, another celebrated coastal researcher from Scripps, offered the scheme where primary 4
5 agents (geologic) provide the framework for coastal configuration, and secondary agents (marine processes) modify that framework. A valuable website which offers more information on Shepard s classification scheme is: Depositional Coastal Features. As stressed in lecture, depositional features are not the only type of coastal landforms along tectonically passive margin coasts, but there is a preponderance of them there. It is not uncommon to see barrier islands, spits, cuspate forelands, capes, and chenier plains (beach ridge sets) along passive margins. Here we explore some of the theories of the formation of these sedimentary, constructional landforms. This material is covered on pp of Komar (1998) Cuspate Forelands and Capes. Large-scale example: Carolina Outer Banks - Cape Hatteras, Cape Lookout, Cape Fear Small-scale example: Rhythmic Cuspate Features of Nantucket Harbor Spits and Tombolos Barrier Islands and Inlets. Barrier island formation theories (1) debeaumont (1845) presented a theory based on cross shore sediment transport, whereby continued deposition of a submarine bar (originating from wave breaking) eventually accreted to an elevation above sea level, creating a barrier island. (2) In the famous USGS Monograph 1 by Gilbert (1890), on Lake Bonneville a theory is presented which offers an explanation that barrier islands were the result spit growth from longshore sediment transport. (3) McGee (1890) argued that the drowned river valleys along the east coast of North America testified to the submergence of the shoreline, which he claimed explained the formation of barrier islands unconnected to the mainland. Hoyt (1967) also supported this theory. 5
6 Washover - Landward migration of barrier islands in response to sea level rise occurs during intervals of raised water surface elevation (usually during a storm surge, at high tide, when large waves provide high wave set-up). Sustained, landward migration of the barrier form will eventually cause previous back-barrier sediments to become exposed in the foreshore, such as the peats exposed at Cape Hatteras (Komar (1998), Fig. 2-21) or at Cape Canaveral, FL. Transgressive vs. Regressive sequences are visible in the stratigraphic record and document the seaward or landward migration of depositional environments, respectively. Beach ridge sets - These ubiquitous landforms lack a clear explanation of their formation, preservation, and evolution. Otvos (1969) proposed that changes in wave directions and sediment supply were primarily responsible for the production of beach ridge sets in the SE Louisiana chenier plain. Discussion of Inlet dynamics and relationship of spacing to headland or sedimentary source 1.5. Erosional Coastal Features. Features that are characteristic of tectonically active coasts, are often considered erosioal features, meaning that the sedimentary cover has been stripped away to expose the bedrock. However, these coasts tend to accumulate sediment in specific locations, such as the characteristic sedimentary carapace on the top of an uplifted marine terrace, or within the sheltered recess of a pocket beach, features discussed further below. This material is covered on pp of Komar (1998) Sea Cliffs Uplifted Marine Terraces. Often appearing as flights of stairs occupying several 10 s of km adjacent to an active margin coastline, these features commonly form from the interplay of surface uplift and oscillating sea level. The process of marine terrace generation and degradation (by fluvial and hillslope processes) has been investigated by Anderson et al. (1999), whose animation we view in class Arches and Sea Stacks Pocket Beaches Beach Sediment. 6
7 Composition. The mineralology (chemical makeup) of individual grains of sediment on beaches is largely a reflection of the source region. An area of the terrestrial landscape where felsic rocks are eroding (granites as an igneous example and quartz sandstone as a sedimentary example), will produce siliciclastic beach sediment composed of quartz and feldspar grains, though feldspars are notoriously vulnerable to decimation during transport, so the quartz is typically all that remains. In contrast, mafic source terrain will produce beach sediments rich in heavy minerals such as hornblende, garnet, epidote, tourmaline, zircon and magnetite, which often accumulate as concentrated dark layers interbedded among quartz rich beaches. The process of determining the integrated source terrain from a small sample of sedimentary product, accumulated on a beach for example, is known as a provenance study. This material is covered on pp of Komar (1998) Texture. This topic is covered in detail on pp of Komar (1998). Here s the relationship for calculating phi size: (1) φ = log 2 d d o and the Udden-Wentworth scale: [insert grain size table here - table 3.2 on p. 53 of Komar (1998)] Sorting of Sediment. Sorting is a useful component of sediment analysis due to the relationship that exists between grain size and the energy of the depositional environment. High energy environments typically leave coarse-grained deposits, whereas low energy environments are identified by a fine sediment character. A review of sorting processes and distributions is provided on pp of Komar (1998). Cross Shore Distribution of Sediment Size - Sediment size is strongly related to cross-shore position on the beach, through the interaction of waves and water depth. The coarsest grains (with highest standard deviation and most negative skewness) are typically found at the plunge point (where wave breaking occurs) on the foreshore. Examples of cross shore grain sized distributions from Lake Michigan and Duck FRF in North Carolina are provided on pp of Komar (1998). Longshore Distribution of Sediment Size - A fundamental study which related longshore increase in grain size to a parallel longshore increase in wave energy was done by Bascom (1951) at Halfmoon bay, California. In this study, it was shown that a headland shelters the north portion of the bay from large waves resulting in a gently-sloped beach composed of fine sediment. 7
8 The beach profile is increasingly more steeply-sloped, and the mean sediment size coarsens, with distance from the headland, reflecting the more intense nearshore wave climate witnessed by the more exposed portion of coast. Longshore Sorting by Shape - Roundness or angularity of grains can also be used to deduce the amount of abrasion that sediments have undergone in the surfzone, and the longshore distribution of shape can illustrate the longterm direction of longshore sediment transport as discussed on pp of Komar (1998) Settling Velocity and Stokes Law. When sediment size was discussed earlier, we presented a fairly straightforward scale with cutoff diameters distinguishing boulders from cobbles from pebbles from granules from sand from silt from clay. However, we note that in the coastal environment, where nearshore currents are often turbulently swirling about, it is the hydraulic equivalent size that is important, because that is what will determine whether a grain will be held aloft, or settle to the bed. This means we must understand something about how sedimentary grains settle. Get ready for the derivation of Stokes Law: As an aside, think about what happens to a skydiver: After leaping from the plane the skydiver accelerates downward, but not indefinitely. At some point, the skydiver s downward gravitational force is balanced by an upward directed drag force on his body. When this occurs, the velocity is constant and no further acceleration occurs - this is known as Constant Terminal Settling Velocity, or Fall Velocity. The same thing happens to sediment grains. Imagine we have a spherical object, of diameter d, that is settling through a column of fluid (e.g. air, water, ketchup, etc.). Newton s 2nd Law (F=ma) suggests that the sum of the forces acting on a body are equal to the time rate of change of momentum: (2) (mv) t = (F ) In this relationship, the sum of the forces are zero, so we get: (3) F downward = F upward or stated another way, (4) F grav = F drag 8
9 So now all we have to do is define the gravitational and drag forces. easy: Gravity is (5) F grav = mg = ρv g = (ρ g ρ f )V g defined as a function of the difference in particle density and fluid density (accounting for the buoyancy force), particle volume (sphere, in this case), and gravitational acceleration. The drag force is a bit more complicated. This quantity can be thought of as the time rate of change of kinetic energy of the fluid intersected by the settling particle. This volume, and mass, of water coming to rest by colliding with the particle, per unit time, are, respectively: (6) V f = va (7) m f = ρ f va Therefore the time rate of kinetic energy loss, or power loss, is: (8) (KE) t = P = 1 2 (ρ fva)v 2 Stated another way, the time rate of change of kinetic energy is equal to the power loss which is equal to the product of the drag force (as now defined) and the velocity of the settling particle: (9) P = F d v At this point we can solve for the drag force, and by recognizing that we made an assumption of fluid stopping at intersection with the particle, rather than moving around the particle, we introduce a constant called the drag coefficient, which must be determined empirically. (10) F d = 1 2 C dρ f Av 2 We are ready to equate the gravitational and drag forces. 9
10 (11) (ρ g ρ f )V g = 1 2 C dρ f Av 2 At this point, we simply define the volume (V ) and the cross-sectional area (A) of the settling particle, plug in these definitions, and solve for settling velocity, v. (12) V = 4 3 πr3 = πd3 6 (13) A = πr 2 = π( d 2 )2 (14) v 2 = 2(ρ g ρ f )V g C d ρ f A = 2(ρ g ρ f )πd 3 g 6C d ρ f π( d 2 )2 = 4(ρ g ρ f )dg 3ρ f C d And finally, (15) v = 4(ρ g ρ f )dg 3ρ f C d But we aren t quite there yet. The coefficient of drag is still relatively undefined in the above equation, so we turn to the experiments of fluid mechanicians to understand that coefficient s behavior. We introduced the dimensionless number, representing the ratio of inertial forces to viscous forces, as the Reynolds Number (Re), which was a function of dynamic viscosity (η), and several parameters already defined: (16) Re = ρ fdv η Recall from our in-class discussion of the relationship between C d and Re, that in the laminar flow range (Re < 20), the drag coefficient follows the roughly linear inverse relationship: (17) C d = 24 Re This simplifies our equation, within the Stokes Range for sediment, to: 10
11 (18) v = 1 18 gd2 ρ g ρ f η Applications of the Settling Velocity. Bagnold s concept of autosuspension and the Dean number, consider the particle size, as describd by its settling velocity and the incoming wave field. If a particle is of sufficient diameter, to have a rapid enough settling velocity to travel down through the fluid column in the time permitted between fluid motions of successive waves, then deposition will occur. This important consideration is covered in more detail on pp of Komar (1998) Littoral Cells and Sediment Budgets. The final introductory section covers the behavior of sediment routing throughout the littoral system. A littoral sediment budget is simply an application of the principle of conservation of mass. The balance between the rate of sediment entering a leaving a control volume within the littoral system will dictate whether erosion or accretion is occurring within that control volume. The various credits and debits in a littoral sediment budget are covered in detail on pp of Komar (1998). References Anderson, R., A. Densmore, and M. Ellis (1999), The generation and degradation of marine terraces, Basin Research, 11 (1), Bascom, W. N. (1951), The relationship between sand size and beach-face slope, Transactions of the American Geophysical Union, 32, debeaumont, L. E. (1845), Lecons de geologie pratique, 7me Lecon-Levees de Sables et Galets. Paris. Gilbert, G. (1890), Lake bonneville, US Geol. Survey Monograph 1. Hoyt, J. (1967), Barrier island formation, Bulletin of the Geological Society of America. Inman, D., and C. Nordstrom (1971), On the tectonic and morphologic classification of coasts, The Journal of geology, 79 (1), Johnson, D. W. (1919), Shore processes and shoreline development, p
12 Johnson, D. W. (1925), The new england-acadian shoreline, p Komar, P. D. (1998), Beach processes and sedimentation, 2nd ed., p. 429 pp. McGee, W. J. (1890), Encroachments of the sea, The Forum, 9, Otvos, E. (1969), A subrecent beach ridge complex in southeastern louisiana, Bulletin of the Geological Society of America. Woodroffe, C. D. (2002), Coasts: form, process and evolution, p
GLY Coastal Geomorphology Notes
GLY 4734 - Coastal Geomorphology Notes Dr. Peter N. Adams Spring 2011 2 Coastal Classification In this lecture, we discuss some successful classification schemes of the coastal landscape, and pay particular
More informationGLY 4734/6932: Coastal Morphology and Processes
GLY 4734/6932: Coastal Morphology and Processes Narrow, but (perhaps the most) dynamic environment on Earth Influenced by both terrestrial and oceanic processes Course is organized into two parts: (1)
More informationGLY 4734/6932: Coastal Morphology and Processes
GLY 4734/6932: Coastal Morphology and Processes In-Class Exercise think about these questions to answer at the end of class Name and where are you from? What coast are you most familiar with or are you
More informationCoastal Sediments Quartz Sand
2/21/14 Coastal Sediments: Composition, Texture, Sorting, Entrainment, and Settling Provide information about transport pathways and the history of energy delivery Mobility of the sediment itself provides
More informationImportance of Understanding Coastal Landforms
Importance of Understanding Coastal Landforms Costa Concordia Shipwreck, Isola del Giglio, Italy Depositional Coastal Landforms Can interpret landforms in light of geomorphic processes, both terrestrial
More informationThe Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 The Coast: es and Shoreline Processes Trujillo & Thurman, Chapter 10 Oceanography 101 Chapter Objectives Recognize the various landforms characteristic of beaches and coastal regions.
More informationThe Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Trujillo & Thurman, Chapter 10
The Coast: es and Shoreline Processes Trujillo & Thurman, Chapter 10 Oceanography 101 Chapter Objectives Recognize the various landforms characteristic of beaches and coastal regions. Identify seasonal
More informationThe Marine Environment
The Marine Environment SECTION 16.1 Shoreline Features In your textbook, read about erosional landforms, beaches, estuaries, longshore currents, and rip currents. For each statement below, write or. 1.
More informationThe Marine Environment
The Marine Environment SECTION 16.1 Shoreline Features In your textbook, read about erosional landforms, beaches, estuaries, longshore currents, and rip currents. For each statement below, write true or
More informationChapter 17. Ocean and Coastal Processes
Chapter 17 Ocean and Coastal Processes Ocean Basins and Plates Ocean Basins Ocean Basins are profoundly different from the continents. Ocean crust is thin and dense and young. New ocean crust is generated
More informationOcean and Coastal Processes. Ocean Basins. Chapter 20. Ocean Basins and Plates. Ocean Terms. Sea Arch Bay-mouth Bar Spit Tombolo Coast.
Chapter 20 Ocean Basins and Plates Ocean and Coastal Processes Tide Wave Height Length Period Base Refraction Tsunami Beach Sea stack Ocean Terms Sea Arch Bay-mouth Bar Spit Tombolo Coast Emergent Submergent
More informationName: Which rock layers appear to be most resistant to weathering? A) A, C, and E B) B and D
Name: 1) The formation of soil is primarily the result of A) stream deposition and runoff B) precipitation and wind erosion C) stream erosion and mass movement D) weathering and biological activity 2)
More informationL7/ Historical Perspec=ve, Deltas
Colin Woodroffe (2002) Coasts: Form, Process and Evolu=on, Outline of Chapter 7: L7/1 L7/2 7.1. Historical Perspec=ve, 7.1.1. Deltas Herodotus (450, B.C.) delta = Shape of Nile River Delta = Δ Gilbert
More informationGeol 117 Lecture 18 Beaches & Coastlines. I. Types of Coastlines A. Definition:
I. Types of Coastlines A. Definition: 1. Shore = narrow zone where ocean meets land (e.g. beach) 2. Coast is a broad area where both ocean and land processes act a. Includes onshore marshes, dunes, sea
More informationSediment and sedimentary rocks Sediment
Sediment and sedimentary rocks Sediment From sediments to sedimentary rocks (transportation, deposition, preservation and lithification) Types of sedimentary rocks (clastic, chemical and organic) Sedimentary
More informationName Roy G Biv Page 1
Name Roy G Biv Base your answers to questions 1 through 3 on the diagram below. The arrows show the direction in which sediment is being transported along the shoreline. A barrier beach has formed, creating
More information4. The map below shows a meandering stream. Points A, B, C, and D represent locations along the stream bottom.
1. Sediment is deposited as a river enters a lake because the A) velocity of the river decreases B) force of gravity decreases C) volume of water increases D) slope of the river increases 2. Which diagram
More informationWeathering of Rocks. Weathering - Breakdown of rocks into pieces (sediment) 2 main types of weathering to rocks
Weathering of Rocks Weathering - Breakdown of rocks into pieces (sediment) 2 main types of weathering to rocks Mechanical weathering requires physical forces to break rocks into smaller pieces. Chemical
More information1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition
CHAPTER 12 1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition SECTION Agents of Erosion and Deposition BEFORE YOU READ After you read this section, you should be able to answer these questions: What is a shoreline? How
More informationTopic 6: Weathering, Erosion and Erosional-Deposition Systems (workbook p ) Workbook Chapter 4, 5 WEATHERING
Topic 6: Weathering, Erosion and Erosional-Deposition Systems (workbook p. 95-125) Workbook Chapter 4, 5 THE BIG PICTURE: Weathering, erosion and deposition are processes that cause changes to rock material
More informationThe Geology of Sebago Lake State Park
Maine Geologic Facts and Localities September, 2002 43 55 17.46 N, 70 34 13.07 W Text by Robert Johnston, Department of Agriculture, Conservation & Forestry 1 Map by Robert Johnston Introduction Sebago
More informationWeathering, Erosion, Deposition, and Landscape Development
Weathering, Erosion, Deposition, and Landscape Development I. Weathering - the breakdown of rocks into smaller particles, also called sediments, by natural processes. Weathering is further divided into
More informationMarine Science and Oceanography
Marine Science and Oceanography Marine geology- study of the ocean floor Physical oceanography- study of waves, currents, and tides Marine biology study of nature and distribution of marine organisms Chemical
More informationLecture Outline Wednesday - Friday February 14-16, 2018
Lecture Outline Wednesday - Friday February 14-16, 2018 Quiz 2 scheduled for Friday Feb 23 (Interlude B, Chapters 6,7) Questions? Chapter 6 Pages of the Past: Sedimentary Rocks Key Points for today Be
More informationEvolution of Continents Chapter 20
Evolution of Continents Chapter 20 Does not contain complete lecture notes. Mountain belts Orogenesis the processes that collectively produce a mountain belt Includes folding, thrust faulting, metamorphism,
More informationReading Material. See class website. Sediments, from Oceanography M.G. Gross, Prentice-Hall
Reading Material See class website Sediments, from Oceanography M.G. Gross, Prentice-Hall Materials filling ocean basins Dissolved chemicals especially from rivers and mid-ocean ridges (volcanic eruptions)
More informationPage 1. Name:
Name: 1) Which property would best distinguish sediment deposited by a river from sediment deposited by a glacier? thickness of sediment layers age of fossils found in the sediment mineral composition
More informationCh 10 Deposition Practice Questions
1. Base your answer to the following question on the data table below. Six identical cylinders, A through F, were filled with equal volumes of sorted spherical particles. The data table shows the particle
More informationEARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND SEDIMENTATION!
Sed and Strat EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND SEDIMENTATION! 2/27 Lecture 7- Exposure: Weathering and the Sediment Factory 3/04 Lecture 8 - Rivers and Landscapes 3/06 Lecture 9 - Waves (not Tides) 3/11 Lecture
More informationLab 7: Sedimentary Structures
Name: Lab 7: Sedimentary Structures Sedimentary rocks account for a negligibly small fraction of Earth s mass, yet they are commonly encountered because the processes that form them are ubiquitous in the
More informationRockall Plateau. OCN 201: Shelf Sediments
Rockall Plateau OCN 201: Shelf Sediments Classification by Size Classification by Mode of Formation Detrital sediments Transported and deposited as particles Derived from weathering of pre-existing rocks
More information1 Shoreline Landforms 2. 2 Emergent v. Submergent 2. 3 Wavecutting 3. 4 Planview 4. 5 Marine Terraces 5. 6 California 7. 7 Tombolos, Sea Stacks 8
Shorelines November 9, 2008 Contents 1 Shoreline Landforms 2 2 Emergent v. Submergent 2 3 Wavecutting 3 4 Planview 4 5 Marine Terraces 5 6 California 7 7 Tombolos, Sea Stacks 8 8 Active Processes 9 9 Emergence
More informationChapter 5. The Sedimentary Archives
Chapter 5 The Sedimentary Archives Factors affecting Sedimentary Characteristics 1. Tectonic setting 2. Physical, chemical, and biological processes in the depositional environment 3. Method of sediment
More informationHolocene evolution of Dahab coastline Gulf of Aqaba, Sinai Peninsula, Egypt 1
Holocene evolution of Dahab coastline Gulf of Aqaba, Sinai Peninsula, Egypt 1 Magdy Torab* 2 * Prof. of Geomorphology, Department of Geography, Damanhour University, Egypt 3 E-mail: magdytorab@hotmail.com.
More informationWhat is weathering and how does it change Earth s surface? Answer the question using
7 th Grade Lesson What is weathering and how does it change Earth s surface? Answer the question using the sentence frame. You have 4 minutes. Weathering is. This changes the Earth s surface because. 1
More informationWhat type of land feature is located at Point A? A Cliff B Delta C Mountain D Valley
1 What type of land feature is located at Point A? A Cliff B Delta C Mountain D Valley Alfred Wegener s theory of continental drift was 2 not accepted by scientists when the theory was first proposed.
More informationPratice Surface Processes Test
1. The cross section below shows the movement of wind-driven sand particles that strike a partly exposed basalt cobble located at the surface of a windy desert. Which cross section best represents the
More informationEcoregions Glossary. 7.8B: Changes To Texas Land Earth and Space
Ecoregions Glossary Ecoregions The term ecoregions was developed by combining the terms ecology and region. Ecology is the study of the interrelationship of organisms and their environments. The term,
More informationSediment and Sedimentary rock
Sediment and Sedimentary rock Sediment: An accumulation of loose mineral grains, such as boulders, pebbles, sand, silt or mud, which are not cemented together. Mechanical and chemical weathering produces
More informationmountain rivers fixed channel boundaries (bedrock banks and bed) high transport capacity low storage input output
mountain rivers fixed channel boundaries (bedrock banks and bed) high transport capacity low storage input output strong interaction between streams & hillslopes Sediment Budgets for Mountain Rivers Little
More informationClastic Sedimentary Rocks
Clastic Sedimentary Rocks Alessandro Grippo, Ph.D. Alternating sandstones and mudstones in Miocene turbidites Camaggiore di Firenzuola, Firenze, Italy Alessandro Grippo review Mechanical weathering creates
More informationIn 1990, 50% of the U.S. population lived within 75 km of a coast. By 2010, 75% of the U.S. population will live within 75 km of a coast.
In 1990, 50% of the U.S. population lived within 75 km of a coast. By 2010, 75% of the U.S. population will live within 75 km of a coast. High Tech Methods for Surveying the Deep Sea Floor Fig. 20.18 1
More informationCoastal Sediment Properties and Longshore Sediment Transport
Coastal Sediment Properties and Longshore Sediment Transport Julie Rosati Julie.D.Rosati@erdc.usace.army.mil 601-634-3005 Coastal Planning Course Lesson #8 Tuesday 8:00-9:00 am CEM III-1, III-2 1. Coastal
More informationScience EOG Review: Landforms
Mathematician Science EOG Review: Landforms Vocabulary Definition Term canyon deep, large, V- shaped valley formed by a river over millions of years of erosion; sometimes called gorges (example: Linville
More informationThe Sea Floor. Chapter 2
The Sea Floor Chapter 2 Geography of the Ocean Basins World ocean is the predominant feature on the Earth in total area Northern Hemisphere = 61% of the total area is ocean. Southern Hemisphere = about
More informationLab 12 Coastal Geology
Lab 12 Coastal Geology I. Fluvial Systems Hydrologic Cycle Runoff that flows into rivers = precipitation (rain and snowmelt) [infiltration (loss to groundwater) + evaporation (loss to atmosphere) + transpiration
More informationLate 20 th Century Tests of the Continental Drift Hypothesis
Late 20 th Century Tests of the Continental Drift Hypothesis 5 Characteristics of the Ocean Trenches Unless otherwise noted the artwork and photographs in this slide show are original and by Burt Carter.
More information6. In the diagram below, letters A and B represent locations near the edge of a continent.
1. Base your answer to the following question on the cross section below and on your knowledge of Earth science. The cross section represents the distance and age of ocean-floor bedrock found on both sides
More informationSedimentary Basins. Gerhard Einsele. Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg New York London Paris Tokyo Hong Kong Barcelona Budapest
Gerhard Einsele Sedimentary Basins Evolution, Facies, and Sediment Budget With 269 Figures Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg New York London Paris Tokyo Hong Kong Barcelona Budapest Contents Part I Types
More informationWhat are the different ways rocks can be weathered?
Romano - 223 What are the different ways rocks can be weathered? Weathering - the breakdown of rocks and minerals at the Earth s surface 1. 2. PHYSICAL WEATHERING Rock is broken into smaller pieces with
More informationWeathering and Erosion
Have you ever looked at the land around you and wondered how it was shaped? The geologic features that help define the world are still being shaped by the natural processes of weathering, erosion, and
More informationNAME: GEL 109 Final Study Guide - Winter 2008 Questions 6-24 WILL be on the final exactly as written here; this is 60% of the test.
GEL 109 Final Study Guide - Winter 2008 Questions 6-24 WILL be on the final exactly as written here; this is 60% of the test. 1. Sketch a map view of three types of deltas showing the differences in river,
More informationThe Nature of Sedimentary Rocks
The Nature of Sedimentary Rocks Sedimentary rocks are composed of: Fragments of other rocks Chemical precipitates Organic matter or biochemically produced materials The Nature of Sedimentary Rocks Sedimentary
More informationTerrain Units PALEOGEOGRAPHY: LANDFORM CREATION. Present Geology of NYS. Detailed Geologic Map of NYS
NYS TOPOGRAPHY Why so? PALEOGEOGRAPHY: LANDFORM CREATION Prof. Anthony Grande AFG 014 Present Geology of NYS Detailed Geologic Map of NYS Generalized Geology Detailed Geology Hot links to the fold out
More informationMammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky
Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky Objectives of Today s Lecture Refresher on Sedimentary Depositional Systems and Rock Classifications Transgressive and Regressive Marine Environments Carbonate Depositional
More informationEXTERNAL LAND FORMING PROCESSES
NAME SCHOOL INDEX NUMBER DATE EXTERNAL LAND FORMING PROCESSES WEATHERING 1 1998 Q 7 (a) (i) What is the difference between weathering and mass wasting (ii) List five processes involved in chemical weathering
More informationMARINE GEOLOGY & GEOGRAPHY
MARINE GEOLOGY & GEOGRAPHY Bathymetry BATHYMETRY BATHYMETRY THE UNDERWATER EQUIVALENT TO TOPOGRAPHY THE STUDY OF WATER DEPTH A BATHYMETRIC MAP SHOWS FLOOR RELIEF OR TERRAIN AS CONTOUR LINES Bathymetry
More informationPALEOGEOGRAPHY of NYS. Definitions GEOLOGIC PROCESSES. Faulting. Folding 9/6/2012. TOPOGRAPHIC RELIEF MAP of NYS GRADATIONAL TECTONIC
TOPOGRAPHIC RELIEF MAP of NYS PALEOGEOGRAPHY of NYS Prof. Anthony Grande AFG 2012 Definitions GEOLOGIC PROCESSES Geography: study of people living on the surface of the earth. Geology: the scientific study
More informationRegional-scale understanding of the geologic character and sand resources of the Atlantic inner continental shelf, Maine to Virginia
Regional-scale understanding of the geologic character and sand resources of the Atlantic inner continental shelf, Maine to Virginia Workshop on Dredging, Beach Nourishment and Bird Conservation Atlantic
More informationSEGMENTED BREAKWATERS AND THEIR USE IN COASTAL LOUISIANA
SEGMENTED BREAKWATERS AND THEIR USE IN COASTAL LOUISIANA Prepared by: Louisiana Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority Engineering Division March 2016 The geology of Louisiana s coastal zone is intimately
More informationCopyright McGraw-Hill Education. All rights reserved. No reproduction or distribution without the prior written consent of McGraw-Hill Education
Copyright McGraw-Hill Education. All rights reserved. No reproduction or distribution without the prior written consent of McGraw-Hill Education Tibetan Plateau and Himalaya -southern Asia 11.00.a VE 10X
More informationES120 Sedimentology/Stratigraphy
Midterm Exam 5/05/08 NAME: 1. List or describe 3 physical processes that contribute to the weathering of rocks (3pts). exfoliation frost wedging many others. roots, thermal expansion/contraction also credit
More informationModule 10: Resources and Virginia Geology Topic 4 Content: Virginia Geology Notes
Virginia is composed of a very diverse landscape that extends from the beaches and barrier islands all of the way to the highly elevated Appalachian Plateau. Geologists have discovered ancient shallow
More informationUnit 1: Water Systems on Earth Chapter 2
Unit 1: Water Systems on Earth Chapter 2 Create a mind map with the driving question, Why are Oceans Important? Remember: Why are oceans so important? Why are oceans so important? Primary water source
More informationUNIT 3 GEOLOGY VOCABULARY FLASHCARDS THESE KEY VOCABULARY WORDS AND PHRASES APPEAR ON THE UNIT 3 CBA
UNIT 3 GEOLOGY VOCABULARY FLASHCARDS THESE KEY VOCABULARY WORDS AND PHRASES APPEAR ON THE UNIT 3 CBA A map that shows Earth s Topographic Map surface topography, which is Earth s shape and features Contour
More informationPhillip Island Nature Parks Coastal Process Study 8 October 2014
Phillip Island Nature Parks Coastal Process Study 8 October 2014 Project Overview Coastal Geology Basaltic and fragmented lavas, granite at Pyramid Rock and Cape Woolamai Weathered basalt (>10m thick)
More informationName. 4. The diagram below shows a soil profile formed in an area of granite bedrock. Four different soil horizons, A, B, C, and D, are shown.
Name 1. In the cross section of the hill shown below, which rock units are probably most resistant to weathering? 4. The diagram below shows a soil profile formed in an area of granite bedrock. Four different
More informationSedimentary Rocks. Origin, Properties and Identification. Physical Geology GEOL 100. Ray Rector - Instructor
Sedimentary Rocks Origin, Properties and Identification Physical Geology GEOL 100 Ray Rector - Instructor Sedimentary Rock Origin and Identification Lab Pre-Lab Internet Link Resources 1) http://www.rockhounds.com/rockshop/rockkey/index.html
More informationSedimentary Rocks. Origin, Properties and Identification. Physical Geology GEOL 101 Lab Ray Rector - Instructor
Sedimentary Rocks Origin, Properties and Identification Physical Geology GEOL 101 Lab Ray Rector - Instructor Sedimentary Rock Origin and Identification Lab Pre-Lab Internet Link Resources 1) http://www.rockhounds.com/rockshop/rockkey/index.html
More informationJasper Beach, Machiasport, Maine
Maine Geologic Facts and Localities June, 2000 Jasper Beach, Machiasport, Maine 44 o 38 30.28 N, 67 o 22 31.96 W Text by Joesph T. Kelley, Department of Agriculture, Conservation & Forestry 1 Map by USGS
More informationARE YOU READY TO THINK? Look at the first slide THINK PAIR SHARE!
ARE YOU READY TO THINK? Look at the first slide THINK PAIR SHARE! WHAT PROMINENT FEATURE CAN YOU IDENTIFY IN THIS PICTURE? What do you think the different colors represent? Who might find such a picture
More information24. Ocean Basins p
24. Ocean Basins p. 350-372 Background The majority of the planet is covered by ocean- about %. So the majority of the Earth s crust is. This crust is hidden from view beneath the water so it is not as
More informationPage 1 of 9 Name: Base your answer to the question on the diagram below. The arrows show the direction in which sediment is being transported along the shoreline. A barrier beach has formed, creating a
More informationSea-level Rise on Cape Cod: How Vulnerable Are We? Rob Thieler U.S. Geological Survey Woods Hole, MA
Sea-level Rise on Cape Cod: How Vulnerable Are We? Rob Thieler U.S. Geological Survey Woods Hole, MA Outline Sea-level and coastal processes Past sea-level change Predictions for the future Coastal responses
More informationGEOLOGY MEDIA SUITE Chapter 5
UNDERSTANDING EARTH, SIXTH EDITION GROTZINGER JORDAN GEOLOGY MEDIA SUITE Chapter 5 Sedimentation Rocks Formed by Surface Processes 2010 W.H. Freeman and Company Mineralogy of sandstones Key Figure 5.12
More informationSHORELINE AND BEACH PROCESSES: PART 2. Implications for Coastal Engineering
SHORELINE AND BEACH PROCESSES: PART 2 Implications for Coastal Engineering Objectives of the lecture: Part 2 Show examples of coastal engineering Discuss the practical difficulties of ocean engineering
More informationTHE DEPOSITS OF TSUNAMIS WESLEY PESANTEZ, CATHERINE NIELD, COLIN WINTER
THE DEPOSITS OF TSUNAMIS WESLEY PESANTEZ, CATHERINE NIELD, COLIN WINTER AN OVERVIEW OF OUR SEMINAR WHAT IS A TSUNAMI WHY STUDY TSUNAMIS PROPERTIES OF TSUNAMIS TSUNAMI HYDRODYNAMICS IDEALIZED DEPOSITS SEDIMENT
More informationSupplemental Slides. Shore: Junction of Land & Water. Junction of Land & Water. Sea Level Variations. Shore vs. Coast. Sea Level Variations
Shore: Junction of Land & Water Supplemental Slides Sediments come off land Most get dumped at the beach Sediment interacts with ocean waves and currents Junction of Land & Water Features: Breaking waves,
More informationShore: Junction of Land & Water. Sediments come off land Most get dumped at the beach Sediment interacts with ocean waves and currents
Shore: Junction of Land & Water Supplemental Slides Sediments come off land Most get dumped at the beach Sediment interacts with ocean waves and currents Junction of Land & Water Features: Breaking waves,
More informationAustralian Coastal Councils Conference
Australian Coastal Councils Conference 11 March 2015 Estimating Future Coastal Inundation and Erosion Hazards Dr Andrew McCowan Dr Christine Lauchlan-Arrowsmith Warwick Bishop Background Victorian Future
More informationThe Building of the NYC Region
The Building of the NYC Region Definitions Fall Line marks the area where an upland region (continental bedrock) and a coastal plain meet Piedmont the plateau region of the eastern United States which
More informationErosion and Deposition
CHAPTER 3 LESSON 2 Erosion and Deposition Landforms Shaped by Water and Wind Key Concepts What are the stages of stream development? How do water erosion and deposition change Earth s surface? How do wind
More informationWhich landscape best represents the shape of the valleys occupied by glaciers? A) B) C) D)
1. Glaciers often form parallel scratches and grooves in bedrock because glaciers A) deposit sediment in unsorted piles B) deposit rounded sand in V-shaped valleys C) continually melt and refreeze D) drag
More informationObjectives. Vocabulary
Shoreline Features Objectives Explain how shoreline features are formed and modified by marine processes. Describe the major erosional and depositional shoreline features. Vocabulary wave refraction beach
More informationChapter 2. Wearing Down Landforms: Rivers and Ice. Physical Weathering
Chapter 2 Wearing Down Landforms: Rivers and Ice Physical Weathering Weathering vs. Erosion Weathering is the breakdown of rock and minerals. Erosion is a two fold process that starts with 1) breakdown
More informationAim and objectives Components of vulnerability National Coastal Vulnerability Assessment 2
ASSESSING THE UTILITY OF GEOMORPHIC SENSITIVITY MAPPING ON THE ILLAWARRA COAST Pamela Abuodha, Christina Baker, Chris Sharples, Darren Skene and Colin Woodroffe Geoquest Research Centre, University of
More informationDepositional Environments. Depositional Environments
Depositional Environments Geographic area in which sediment is deposited Characterized by a combination of geological process & environmental conditions Depositional Environments Geological processes:
More informationSedimentary Rocks. Origin, Properties and Identification. Geology Laboratory GEOL 101 Lab Ray Rector - Instructor
Sedimentary Rocks Origin, Properties and Identification Geology Laboratory GEOL 101 Lab Ray Rector - Instructor Sedimentary Rock Origin and Identification Lab Pre-Lab Internet Link Resources 1) http://www.rockhounds.com/rockshop/rockkey/index.html
More informationPage 1. Name:
Name: 1) Which event is the best example of erosion? dissolving of rock particles on a limestone gravestone by acid rain breaking apart of shale as a result of water freezing in a crack rolling of a pebble
More informationEarth s Continents and Seafloors. GEOL100 Physical Geology Ray Rector - Instructor
Earth s Continents and Seafloors GEOL100 Physical Geology Ray Rector - Instructor OCEAN BASINS and CONTINENTAL PLATFORMS Key Concepts I. Earth s rocky surface covered by of two types of crust Dense, thin,
More informationMap shows 3 main features of ocean floor
Map shows 3 main features of ocean floor 2017 Pearson Education, Inc. Chapter 3 Marine Provinces 2017 Pearson Education, Inc. 1 Chapter 3 Overview The study of bathymetry determines ocean depths and ocean
More informationPaleo Lab #4 - Sedimentary Environments
Paleo Lab #4 - Sedimentary Environments page - 1. CHARACTERISTICS OF SEDIMENT Grain size and grain shape: The sizes and shapes of sedimentary particles (grains) are modified considerably during their transportation
More informationChapter 02 The Sea Floor
Chapter 02 The Sea Floor Multiple Choice Questions 1. One of the following is not one of the world's major ocean basins: A. Atlantic Ocean B. Arctic Ocean C. Indian Ocean D. Antarctic Ocean E. Pacific
More informationFLUVIAL LANDFORMS. Floodplains
FLUVIAL LANDFORMS Floodplains fairly flat & continuous surface occupying much of a valley bottom normally underlain by unconsolidated sediments subject to periodic flooding (usually once every year or
More informationIgneous Rocks. Sedimentary Rocks
Earth Sciences 083F Plate Tectonics Exercises Plate tectonics is a model for the dynamic behaviour of Earth s lithosphere. Outlining stable areas of lithosphere are narrow zones (plate boundaries) in which
More informationWeathering, Erosion and Deposition
Weathering, Erosion and Deposition Shaping the Earth s Surface Weathering the process of breaking down rocks into smaller fragments Erosion the transport of rock fragments from one location to another
More informationDynamic Crust Practice
1. Base your answer to the following question on the cross section below and on your knowledge of Earth science. The cross section represents the distance and age of ocean-floor bedrock found on both sides
More informationEarth Science Lesson Plan Quarter 2, Week 10, Day 1
Earth Science Lesson Plan Quarter 2, Week 10, Day 1 Outcomes for Today Standard Focus: PREPARE 1. Background knowledge necessary for today s reading. Beaches are created by the actions of waves, tides,
More informationSection 2.1 Ocean Basins. - Has helped determine where ocean basins are located. - Tectonic plates move changing the position of the continents.
Science 8 Unit 1: Water Systems on Earth Chapter 2: Oceans Control the Water Cycle Section 2.1 Ocean Basins Oceans are important because: 1. Primary water source for the water cycle 2. Control weather
More information1. Base your answer to the following question on the map below, which shows the generalized bedrock of a part of western New York State.
1. Base your answer to the following question on the map below, which shows the generalized bedrock of a part of western New York State. 3. The table below describes the deposits that an observer saw while
More information