GLY Coastal Geomorphology Notes

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1 GLY Coastal Geomorphology Notes Dr. Peter N. Adams Spring Coastal Classification In this lecture, we discuss some successful classification schemes of the coastal landscape, and pay particular attention to tectonic setting as a controlling factor of the general morphology. The utility of each of the following schemes is highly dependent on the goals of the classification, so there is not one best scheme that all researchers in this discipline adhere to. An incomplete summary of coastal classification schemes is provided on pp of Komar (1998) and pp of Davidson-Arnott (2010), and a fairly thorough rehashing of this subject is provided by Finkl (2004). 2.1 Submergence vs. Emergence Johnson (1919, 1925), mentioned earlier for his application of Davisian principles, was also responsible for championing a coastal classification scheme based on relative rise (submergence) or fall (emergence) of the sea relative to the land. Submergent coasts display drowned features such as flooded coastal river valleys, abandoned barrier islands, or fjords. Emergent coasts exhibit raised features such as elevated marine terraces (formerly wave cut platforms), dry coral reefs above sea level, and wave cut notches in sea cliff walls. 1

2 2.2 Tectonic Classification of Coasts Just like so many other disciplines in the Earth sciences, the subject of coastal geomorphology may be viewed in the context of our grand unifying theory of Plate Tectonics. The classic paper by Inman and Nordstrom (1971) sets up the organization scheme for large-scale coastal geomorphic character based on tectonic setting. This classification scheme is summarized in Davidson-Arnott (2010) on pp Gross topographic character of coastal zones is related to position on plates of the tectosphere. First order classification consists of three classes: Collision edge (a.k.a. Leading edge), Trailing edge, and Marginal sea. Along active continental margins, the following scenarios can occur: 1. At continent-continent convergent margins, landlocked mountainous terrain forms (example: Himalayas and Tibetan plateau), so no coast forms to be classified. 2. At continent-oceanic convergent margins, subduction takes place forming mountainous terrain on the overriding continental plate, a narrow continental shelf, and a deep trench at the plate interface (example: west coast of South America). This configuration forms the first sub-class of Collision coasts known as Continental collision coasts. 3. At oceanic-oceanic convergent margins, island arcs form (examples: Japan, Aleutian Islands). This configuration forms the second sub-class of Collision coasts known as Island-arc collision coasts. Along passive continental margins, the following scenarios can occur: 1. New trailing-edge coasts may form near a young (recently emerged) spreading center or rift (examples: Gulf of California, Red Sea). This configuration forms the first sub-class of Trailing-edge coasts known as Neotrailing-edge-coasts. 2. Where a passive continental margin has another passive margin on the opposite side of the same continent, the potential for terrestrial erosion and deposition is low, because there is no major elevated sedimentary source terrain (mountain belt) whose erosional products could contribute a sediment load to enhance the dynamics of the coastal environment (examples: 2

3 East and west coasts of Africa). This configuration forms the second subclass of Trailing-edge coasts known as Afro-trailing-edge-coasts. 3. Where a passive margin is opposite an active margin (Continental collision coast), significant sedimentary load is provided to the trailing-edge-coast due to abundant source terrain and disproportionately large drainage basins from the skewed distribution of continental topography (examples: East coast of North America). These coasts can build wide continental shelves and may exhibit extensive barrier island systems, due to the large sediment load present. This configuration forms the third sub-class of Trailing-edge coasts known as Amero-trailing-edge-coasts. Along continental margins fronted by an Island arc, significant protection from the open ocean exists, thereby changing the inherent characteristics of the coast. These are Marginal sea coasts and form a separate first-order class. 2.3 Shepard s Classification As noted by Inman and Nordstrom (1971), second-order features of local geologic influence, and erosion/deposition (of spatial scale < 100km), can also be used to classify the coastal landscape. Francis Parker Shepard, another celebrated coastal researcher from Scripps, through a series of revisions (Shepard, 1937, 1948, 1973, 1976) offered the scheme where primary agents (geologic) provide the framework for coastal configuration, and secondary agents (marine processes) modify that framework. A valuable website which offers more information on Shepard s classification scheme is: This material is well covered in the US Army Corps of Engineers Manual on Coastal Geology, available from the course website. 2.4 Temporal / Spatial Scales in Coastal Geomorphology Coastal processes operate over a range of time scales (seconds to centuries) and influence landforms over a range of spatial scales (sand ripples to bights). Scaling up from the detailed physics of granular mechanics to the large scale evolution is a 3

4 formidable challenge, so numerical modeling approaches in coastal geomorphology must be clear in goals and objectives. 2.5 Coastal Zone Nomenclature Coastal zone - Imprecisely defined area influenced by its proximity to the coast Offshore zone - Outer breakers to area of no sediment transport by waves Littoral zone - Where wave driven transport occurs Nearshore zone - From outer zone of wave driven sediment transport to low tide shoreline Shore or Beach - Zone subject to wave activity that is intermittently exposed Foreshore - Subject to wave action during non-storm conditions Backshore - Subject to wave action during storm conditions only; the recreational beach Surf zone - Region of broken waves; surf bores Swash zone - Region of wave run-up and backwash Intertidal zone - Region between high and low tide shorelines Shoreline - instantaneous intercept of water level with the beach References Davidson-Arnott, R. (2010), Introduction to coastal processes and geomorphology. Finkl, C. W. (2004), Coastal classification: Systematic approaches to consider in the development of a comprehensive scheme, Journal of coastal research, 201, , doi: / (2004)20[166:ccsatc]2.0.co;2. Inman, D., and C. Nordstrom (1971), On the tectonic and morphologic classification of coasts, The Journal of geology, 79 (1), Johnson, D. W. (1919), Shore processes and shoreline development, p Johnson, D. W. (1925), The new england-acadian shoreline, p

5 Komar, P. D. (1998), Beach processes and sedimentation, 2nd Ed., 429 pp. Shepard, F. P. (1937), Revised classification of marine shorelines, Journal of Geology, 45, Shepard, F. P. (1948), Submarine geology, (Harper and Rowe, New York). Shepard, F. P. (1973), Submarine geology, 3rd ed., (Harper and Rowe, New York). Shepard, F. P. (1976), Coastal classification and changing coastlines, Geoscience and Man, 13,

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