ON THE EVOLUTION OF A HOLOCENE BARRIER COAST

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1 ON THE EVOLUTION OF A HOLOCENE BARRIER COAST Response to sea-level change and sediment supply DANCORE Seminar 2014 COADAPT - Danish Coasts and Climate Adaptation Flooding Risk and Coastal Protection Mikkel Fruergaard Department of Geosciences and Natural Ressource Management Copenhagen, December 3th 2014

2 Presentation outline Acknowledgement Introduction The study area Research methodology and approach Long-term barrier system evolution in respons to sea-level and sediment supply changes Barrier system respond to an extreme storm event Conclusions

3 Acknowledgement Primary financing and partners: Danish Council for Strategic Research (COADAPT) DHI Danish Coastal Authority Department of Geosciences and Natural Resource Management Geocenter Denmark (REFLEKS) Department of Geosciences and Natural Resource Management, University of Copenhagen GEUS - The Geological Survey of Denmark and Greenland Department of Geosciences and Natural Resources Management, University of Copenhagen

4 Department of Geosciences and Natural Resources Management Barrier systems definition, morphology and distribution Barrier island definition Wadden Sea coast Elongated Essential shore-parallel Separated from the mainland Consist mostly of unconsolidated sediments Protects the adjacent mainland coast US Atlantic and Gulf coasts Main sedimentary environments Mainland Lea-Hutaff Island, North Carolina Back-barrier basin Barrier island After Reinson (1992) in Walker and James (ed.) (1992) Tidal inlets/channels Tidal deltaes SE Australian coast McBride et al. (2013) Barrier platform Schiermonnikoog, The Netherlands Mainly found along trailing edge coasts Shoreface Comprises about 13% of the world s coastlines Bird Key, St. Armands Key, Lido Key and Longboat Key, Florida Important components of stratigraphic record of the Earth

5 Barrier system evolution Large-scale morphology Sediment supply Sea-level rise Storms Modified from Masselink and Hughes (2003)

6 Relevance Church et al. (2013) (IPCC) Blue: RCP2.6 Red: RCP8.5 Increasing sea-level rise and accelerating rise One way to predict how barrier systems develops during a rising sealevel is to reconstruct how barrier systems have developed under similar conditions Dias 6

7 Post-glacial sea-level rise Last Glacial Maximum Modified after Streif (2004) Dias 7

8 Introduction to the study area Modified after Hofstede (2005)

9 Introduction to the study area Skallingen- Langli Fanø Mandø Rømø Sylt Large-scale morphology Convex-concave-convex form Sedimentary environments Barrier islands and high-lying sand flats Back-barrier basins Tidal inlets and deltaes Salt marshes

10 Introduction to the study area Tide and wave parameters Mean tidal range: ~1.5 2 m Predominant winds from west and south-west Mean offshore wave height: ~1 m Storm surges +2 m to the astronomical high tide Modified after Davis and Hayes (1984) and Hofstede (2005)

11 Research methodology Coring (core well drilling, vibracoring, hand bore drilling) Core logging and intrepretation of depositional environments Ground-penetrating radar (GPR) imaging Optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) and radiocarbon datings Age-dept / sediment sea-level (SSL) diagram Coring and GPR Depositional environment Absolute chronology SSL diagram Dias 11

12 Skallingen-Langli Skallingen- Langli Main objectives Reconstruct the stratigraphic and chronological evolution of the Skallingen-Langli barrier system Evaluate accumulation rates within sedimentary environments of the BS Determine how depositional environments within the CBS have responded to changes in RSL

13 Study site 5 cores (10-22 m) 3 GEUS cores 92 OSL-ages 4 C-14 ages

14 Stratigraphy of Skallingen Marine sand shoal Wave ravinement surface ~4.7 ka Transgressive surface ~7.5 ka Flood tidal-delta sand and mud Back-barrier flooding surface ~3.4 ka Pleistocene sand

15 Chronology Transgression of seaward Rapid part infilling of barrier of system back-barrier Back-barrier ~4.7 basin ka ~5.5 ka Initial marine deposition flooding begins in the study ~6.6 area ka ~7.5 ka Sea-level rise > ~1.8 mm yr -1 = transgression Sea-level rise < ~1.8 mm yr -1 = regression and aggradation

16 Holocene evolution Pleistocene deposits ~8.4 kyr ago Freshwater/brackish reed swamp Marine flooding 7.5 ka Embryonic barrier island? Back-barrier basin ~6.6 kyr ago ~5.5 kyr ago Flood tidal-delta Formation of WRS ~4.7 ka End of transgressive stage Beginning of highstand stage ~4.5 kyr ago Sea Beach ridge sand

17 Holocene evolution Aeolian dunes Salt marsh Mudflat ~2.5 kyr ago ~1.4 kyr ago ka mainly stable period ~0.4 kyr ago ~0.3 kyr ago The 1634 AD storm

18 Holocene evolution ~0.2 kyr ago ~0.2 kyr ago Present Supporting data from: Jacobsen, 1937 Aagaard et al., 1995 Clemmensen et al., 1996 Davis et al., 1997 Davis et al., 2001 Madsen, 2005 Gehrels et al., 2006 Aagaard et al., 2007 Madsen et al., 2007b Szkornik et al., 2008 Bartholdy, 2012 Fruergaard et al., 2013

19 Fanø Main objectives Reconstruct the Holocene depositional history of the central part of the Fanø CBS Assess the response of Fanø to different rates of Holocene sea-level rise

20 Study site Different study site but similar Holocene sea-level history Differences in depositional evolution may be explained by differences in sediment supply 4 cores (12-25 m) ~14 km GPR sections 53 OSL-ages Dias 20

21 Chronology Age range of Second period Initial marine Back-barrier marine transgression of regression flooding in the deposition study area begins 0.52 kyr ago ~7.0 ~6.2 kyr ago progradation kyr ago begins 4.9 kyr ago Sea-level rise Shoreface > ~1.8 and mm Between beach yr -1 = transgression kyr ago Sea-level rise < ~1.7 mm yr -1 = regression

22 Rømø Department of Geosciences and Natural Resources Management

23 The development of a barrier coast Transgressive - regressive Transgressive - Regressive Aggradational Aggradational-regressive Transgressive?

24 Storm induced coastal response Large-scale morphology Sediment supply Sea-level rise Storms Modified from Masselink and Hughes (2003)

25 Department of Geosciences and Natural Ressource Management The 1634 AD storm The 1634 AD storm The Second Grote Mandrenke people drowned Highest recorded sea-level in Denmark ~6.10 m Classifies at least as a 1000-year event

26 The 1634 AD storm ~6.0

27 Study site Department of Geosciences and Natural Resources Management

28 Department of Geosciences and Natural Ressource Management Core stratigraphy Position of core S5

29 Barrier island formation Storm related vertical deposition 7 8 m. O = overestimated ages Barrier island formation The 1634 AD storm

30 Historic validation 1612 map Open water condition at the present position of Skallingen Only very northern part of Skallingen is on the map Langli forms a barrier spit Willem Janszoon Blaeu 1650 map High-lying sand shoal at the present location of Skallingen - Schallingsand Langli is represented as an island New exposed coastline Barrier breach Johannes Mejer

31 Department of Geosciences and Natural Ressource Management Sediment source NW Inner Horns Reef SW Aagaard (2011) estimated Ulven to be 300 years old

32 Conclusions Long-term barrier coast development Same sea-level forcing different coastal respond The reason is differences in sediment supply This is mainly controlled by the largescale morphology of the coast At Skallingen-Langli and Fanø transgression occurred until sea-level rise became lower than 2 mm yr -1 Short-term barrier island formation A single extreme storm can induce large scale regional morphological changes Control both short-term (<10 yr) and long-term (>100 yr) coastal evolution The effect of the sea-level rise has been insignificant compared to the effect of the storm

33 Thank you for your attention

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