II Why study coastal landforms?

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1 COASTAL LANDFORMS (32) I Main topics A Why study coastal landforms? B Sediment budget and system response C Coastal landforms 3/26/15 GG454 1 II Why study coastal landforms? A Dynamic systems B Reflect geologic history and human influence 1 Tectonics 2 Sea level change 3 Sediment budget C Provide a basis for predicqng long- term future behavior of a coastal system D Dense populaqons 3/26/15 GG

2 III Sediment budget and system response A Where sediment input > sediment loss: accreqon B Where sediment loss > sediment input: erosion C Where subsidence rate > sedimentaqon rate: submergence Mississippi River Delta New Orleans, Louisiana hyp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/mississippi_river_delta 3/26/15 GG454 3 IV Coastal landforms 3/26/15 GG

3 A Beaches, berms, and bars 1 Beach: AccumulaQon of rock fragments that can be moved by ordinary wave acqon 2 Berm: The above water porqon of a beach 3 Bar: The below water porqon of a beach; bars typically extend to depths of ~10m below low Qde level 4 Sand commonly moves offshore in winter, onshore in summer (berm!" bar) hyp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/liyoral_zone hyp://w3.salemstate.edu/~lhanson/gls214/gls214_beach1.htm 3/26/15 GG A narrow flat area created by wave erosion 2 Result from sea- level fall and/or land rise B Wave- cut bench Wave- cut bench, Hanauma Bay Wave- cut bench, Hanauma Bay hyp://sadtp.soest.hawaii.edu/space/hawaii/ves/oahu/oahu_se/se.ground.photographs3.html 3/26/15 GG

4 3/26/15 C Wave- cut terrace or pladorm 1 A broad flat area created by wave erosion 2 Result from sea- level fall and/or land rise Wave- cut terrace Wilder Ranch State Park, California Wave- cut pladorm Aberystwyth, Wales hyp://maps.unomaha.edu/maher/geol1010/lecture14/waveterraceusgs.jpg 3/26/15 hyp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/wave- cut_pladorm GG454 7 D Deltas 1 Sedimentary bodies deposited at a river mouth a Sediment sources i Natural and arqficial ii Dynamic B Influences i Stream- dominated: distributaries prominent: ( birdfoot deltas) ii Wave- dominated: delta shape asymmetric 3/26/15 Mississippi River Delta hyp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/river_delta GG

5 E Spits 1 AYached, shore- parallel ridges of sand 2 Require a supply of sand, a transporqng current, and a deposiqonal site Dungeness Spit, Washington Farewell Spit, South Island, New Zealand hyp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/spit_(landform) 3/26/15 GG454 9 F Barrier islands 1 Barrier islands: low, elongate, shore- parallel islands 2 Emergence of offshore bars 3 Submergence of beaches and beach dunes 4 Help protect landward coast from erosion Barrier islands, Mobile Bay, Alabama hyp://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/file:baie_de_mobile.jpg 3/26/15 GG

6 1 Lagoon: a shallow body of water separated from a larger body of water by a shallow or exposed shoal, coral reef, or similar feature 2 Commonly elongate, annular, or circular in map view G Lagoons Lagoon, Bora Bora hyp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/lagoon#/media/file:boraboralue_gerade.jpg 3/26/15 GG Indicate approximate level of sea level at the Qme of reef formaqon 2 Elevated reefs indicate former sea level highstands and/or coastal emergence 3 Submerged reefs indicate former sea level lowstands or coastal subsidence H Reefs Flat Island, Kailua Bay hyp:// content/uploads/2014/06/popoia- Island- Oahu- Hawaii.jpg 3/26/15 GG

7 H Reefs 1 Indicate approximate level of sea level at the Qme of reef formaqon 2 Elevated reefs indicate former sea level highstands and/or coastal emergence 3 Submerged reefs indicate former sea levels and/or coastal subsidence Flat Island, Kailua Bay hyp:// oblique_photos/windward/images/092_kailua_beach_park.jpg 3/26/15 GG I Estuaries I Inundated stream valleys 2 Typically reflect recent sea level rise 3 Sediment traps San Francisco Bay Chesapeake Bay hyp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/san_francisco_bay hyp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/chesapeake_bay#/media/file:chesapeakelandsat.jpeg 3/26/15 GG

8 1 Inundated glacial valleys 2 Commonly very deep 3 Rockfalls common J Fjords Sognesord, Norway 1300 m deep Milford Sound, New Zealand 512 m deep hyp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/fjord 3/26/15 GG

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