LANGUISHING CRAFT MENDH KI CHAPPAI Sanganer, Rajasthan

Transcription

1 Sponsored by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles Government of India Research Study and Documentation by S-4 Khirki Extn, New Delhi Tel: mail@craftrevival.org Web Encyclo Journal: LANGUISHING CRAFT MENDH KI CHAPPAI Sanganer, Rajasthan LANGUISHING CRAFT MENDH KI CHAPPAI Sponsored by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles Government of India Sanganer, Rajasthan

2 LANGUISHING CRAFT MENDH KI CHAPPAI Sanganer, Rajasthan Sponsored by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles Government of India Research Study and Documentation by

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4 Acknowledgement C at e i al T ust tha ks the Oi e of the De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats, Mi ist of Te iles, Go e e t of I dia, fo thei suppo t a d spo so ship of this e i po ta t su je t. We a k o ledge ith tha ks Sh i S.S. Gupta, De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats fo his help a d suppo t. Tha ks to S t Alka A o a, Addiio al De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats fo he o sta t suppo t. Ou tha ks to Sh i ohit Bha d aj, Di e to, Oi e of the De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats Tha ks a e also due to the oi e a d staf of Oi e of the De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats

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6 Contents A out the Pla e A out the P i i g Co u it A out Me d ki Chappai / Bees a esist Ha d Blo k P i i g P odu t a d Desig T adiio al P odu ts, T adiio al Clie ts A out the P i te s of Me dh Desig Vo a ula of T adiio Colou Palete of T adiio Base Te ile Fa i The aiso de Et e of Me dh ki Chappai Ha d Blo ks of the P i te s T ade Othe a Mate ials Tools used i the P i i g P o ess Tools fo D ei g P o ess a d Te h i ue P odu io Details e o e daio s A isa Co ta t List esea h Methodolog

7 ajastha 6 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

8 About the place Sanganer in Jaipur District Sa ga e, o e a s all to situated kilo et es a a f o Jaipu, is o i disi guisha le f o the sp a li g sp ead of the it hi h has ea hed out to i lude Sa ga e i to its outl i g a ea. The to of Sa ga e oasts of its e o ed ha d ade pape u its a d te ile p i i g i dust ies oth lo k a d s ee p i i g. T adiio all the to has ee ho e to chippa o u it of p i te s a d d e s, the o d chippa lite a ea i g the pe so ho p i ts, ith the o u iies ho e e e gaged i p i i g o loth alled chippas. I the past de ades the lo k p i i g i dust has had to fa e a t e e dous o slaught f o s ee p i i g p o esses, ot o l ha e these p o esses ut i to the a ket fo lo k p i ts, the ha e addiio all used the fa ed lo k p i t pate s of Sa ga e a d epli ated the o to s ee p i i g p odu io. Toda oth ethods of p i i g o-e ist i the la es a d alle s of Sa ga e as the de a d fo the oifs, olou s a d pate s of Sa ga e i te iles ha e i eased i the e e t ea s. The to is a ustli g e po t hu fo p i ted fa i. Ea lie the p i i g as do e ai l o dife e t a ieies of oto, depe di g o the lie tele ut ith ad e t of a pletho a of fa i s, the p i i g has ee e pe i e ted o al ost e e te ile. Sa ga e i ha d lo k p i i g ee egiste ed u de the Geog aphi I di aio s A t i Ma h, this egist is fo the fa ed Sa ga e i p i t, the deli ate ui s i uliple olou s that ade Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 7

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10 this luste e o ed. The p i i g setle e t as ea the a ks of i e Sa as ai hi h is also alled as D a a ai. It is said that the ate s of this i e had su h spe ial ualiies that it ought e t a ight ess i the olou s, thus the olou s p odu ed i the Sa ga e egio had e elle t ight ess. Sadl the i e tu ed i to a s all a al a d soo the ate le els e t do a d the i e has o d ied up. The ate suppl is th ough oto, pu ps a d the ate ta ks. The to is also fa ous fo its Jai te ples. The ost eauiful te ple i Sa ga e is the a ie t Sh i Diga e Jai te ple. The te ple has i e a i gs si ila to those of the ag ii e t Dil a a te ples of Mou t A u. Built i a ious phases ith sk -high shikha as spi es, the te ple ep ese ts a old st le of a hite tu e. The last phase as p o a l uilt i the th e tu AD. The eauiful ij- a di i e te ple is a sto e sh i e ith th ee pi a les. At the e t e lies the idol of Pa sh a ath ith se e se pe t hoods. All a ou d it a e a i gs of lotuses a d eepe s, a d elepha ts pou i g ate f o pit he s held i thei t u ks. But the ai idol is that of Adi ath, i stalled i the sh i e ehi d this. Sa ga e is a ell esta lished to ith the fa ilit of a a k, a d s hools. The oads e te d to the i te io of the to a d the a e ell ai tai ed. The e is a Cali o p i te s o-ope ai e hi h as de eloped the p i te s of Sa ga e. This o-ope ai e is ot e a i e o. Sa ga e is a o a o ld e o ed p i i g to hi h has u e s f o all o e the o ld. The S ai Ma Si gh S asth a Se a is the hospital o Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 9

11 SMS oad i Jaipu it hi h ate s to the health fa iliies fo the atspe so. It is the iggest go e e t u health a e e t e i the Jaipu it. The hospital is o e o o l k o as SMS hospital. The e a e othe p i ate a d state u hospitals i Jaipu a d i Sa ga e. Due to lose p o i it to the Jaipu it the e is o u h of fa iliies elated to health, t a spo taio et. The e a e a s hools i the Sa ga e to. All the s hools a e o the o-edu aio pate a d E glish ediu edu aio. The e is a Go e e t o e Pol te h i College i Sa ga e esta lished i the go e e t of ajastha. The Pol te h i ai s at p o idi g te h i al edu aio to o e a d i p o e thei e t ep e eu ial skills. Ch. Cha a Si gh Naio al I situte of Ag i ultu al Ma kei g NIAM a d I dia I situte of Health Ma age e t esea h IIHM, a e t o p e ie go t. i situtes lo ated i Sa ga e. The li ate is ode ate to hot, ith all fou seaso s. The ights a e old du i g i te s. The egio has peak i e of ea si e O to e ill Ma h as the eddi g seaso sta ts. The a i u tou ists also isit ajastha du i g the i te s. The i te seaso see s to e the est i e fo p i i g as ell as the heat of the su p odu es e t a ight olou s du i g i te s. Du i g o soo the p odu io is elai el lo as the oistu e does ot allo the fa i to d. Jaipu is the ai to lo ated at half hou d i e. The o e i it is a aila le oad th ough us, auto- iksha s a d p i ate ta is. The uses a d autos a e a aila le th oughout the da i e. The e a e State u a d p i ate uses u i g to a d i side Sa ga e. The e is a ail a staio i Sa ga e to ut Jaipu ju io 10 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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13 is a ajo ail a staio ea Sa ga e. Ga dhi aga ail a staio is a othe staio that has o e i it ith Sa ga e to. The Jaipu ai po t is lo ated i Sa ga e. Due to su h lose p o i it of ai po t, Sa ga e to also has a a o odaio s f o udget to lu u ious hotels. The e is a ig fo eig a ket of Sa ga e i ha d lo k p i ted te iles. A lot of u e s f o fo eig ou t ies isit the Sa ga e to. The li e eithe i Jaipu it o Sa ga e. Cali o p i te s o-ope ai e as esta lished the p i te s of Sa ga e a d as a i e i iiall ut it is o o e fu io al. DC Ha di ats e t e is lo ated i the Jaipu ai it. Si e Jaipu is ot fa of f o Sa ga e, the DC H a e ea hed ithi a hou. The go e e t suppo t i situio s a e lo ated i Jaipu it. The oi e s f o go e e t suppo t i situio s do ot isit the ats e. The e a e u e ous o go e e tal o ga isaio s o ki g i Sa ga e to suppo t the p i i g i dust. Ma fo eig u e s isit the pla e ote a d gi e ulk o de s fo p odu io. Ma desig e s o k ith the p i te s. 12 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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15 A out the P i i g Co munity T adiio all the to has ee a setle e t fo the chippa o u it of p i te s a d d e s, the o d chippa lite a ea i g to p i t Chapna, ith the o u iies ho e e e gaged i p i i g o loth alled chippas. The o al histo of the chippas e alls that thei a esto s ig ated to this a ea f o the egio of Guja at. The easo fo ig aio as the o i uous atles a d a fa e i Au a gze s eig. The Ma athas had also sta ted a ui i g the Guja at a ea th ough o i uous aids. The lo g te, o goi g a e i o e t, a o pa ied esou e depleio p o a l aused the p i te s to ig ate to ajastha seeki g e a kets a d a ate ial. I the illage aste s ste hippa s t a e thei li eage to the Kshat i a la ; the t a e thei li eage as des e de t f o Lo d a s se o d so Kush. A othe th of o igi p e ale t a o g the hippa s is as follo s: o e a ki g a ed aja Sahast a ahu asked a B ah i, Pashu a s othe, to gi e hi he o Ka dhe u. O he efusal the ki g got a g a d killed Pa shu a s fathe. I o de to a e ge the death of his fathe Pa shu a s o e to kill all the kshat i as li i g o the ea th. The eldest so of the ki g a aged to sa e hi self a d led to a te ple of goddess Du ga. The goddess Du ga ga e hi ad i e to e ou e the ki gdo, a d ha ge his p ofessio a d aste a d e o i g a 14 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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20 p i te he ould sa e hi self a d his fa il. The to of Sa ga e as de eloped Maha aja Sa ai Jai Si gh ho ought a chippas f o a oss the ou t to p odu e p i ted te iles fo the o al fa il. The to as thus de eloped ea the a ks of i e Sa as ai hi h is also alled as D a a ai, its ate s had spe ial ualiies that e ha ed the ight ess i the olou s, thus the olou s d ed i this egio. U fo tu atel the i e has o d ied up a d the ate suppl is th ough oto, pu ps a d the ate ta ks. Toda o e tha fa ilies a e i ol ed i p i i g usi ess i Sa ga e. Ma p i te fa ilies ha e s it hed to s ee p i i g. The to gets se ious o peiio f o the ea illage, Bag u hi h is also a i po ta t e t e fo ha d lo k p i i g. Sa ga e has also adapted s ee p i i g p a i es, ut ats e i Bag u illage la gel p a i e ha d lo k p i i g. The ea th esist dabu hi h uses ud fo esist p i i g is the spe ialit of Bag u illage. But the te h i ue is also fou d i Sa ga e a d a chippas use this te h i ue fo p i i g as ell. Sa ga e is also k o fo its di e t p i i g, ith ed o la k olou ed uis o hite o light olou ed a kg ou d. E e o e i the chippa fa il o ks i the sa e i dust ut the oles a e lea l dei ed the ge de a d age. Wo e do the a illa o k like ashi g, i si g, foldi g fa i, e o i g th eads et. P i i g o fa i, desig de elop e t a d a kei g a d t adi g a e ha dled e of the house. The o k f o to hou s depe di g upo the o k load. Child e sta t lea i g the at f o a ou g age, assisi g the fa il ate s hool hou s, f o thei ea l tee s, just o ki g as Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 19

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23 helpe s a d doi g s all tasks of foldi g fa i o lea i g the asi d a i g skills. The t adiio al la guage of the egio is Ma a i. Hi di a d E glish a e also o o l used i da to da life. The ele ate all the Hi du fesi al a d take holida s du i g fesi iies. The chippa o u it ha e eligious faith i Sai t Na de of Maha asht a ho elo gs to the Vaish a ite se t, du i g the ele aio of his i th the do t o k at all du i g those da s. P ese tl the t adiio s ha e see a shit i the o ki g le. The i easi g de a d a d glo alizaio has lead to all ea ou d p odu io. But the fesi als a e sill ele ated ith the sa e zeal a d igou. o d rangrez ea s the pe so ho olou the te iles o i si ple te s to d e. The a e ote k o as nilgar as the d e the fa i i i digo (Neel d e. Rangrez a e Su i Musli s. Hi du o u it do ot d e loth as it as o side ed i pu e. But the t adiio al usto s a e o slo l a ishi g ith the ode so iet ith the aste dei ed o upaio s a ishi g. The d ei g o k is take up othe o u iies a d the chippa p i te s ha e sta ted d ei g as ell. Sa ga e o i ues to e a ell esta lished s ee a d ha d lo k p i i g luste. The e a e o e tha 1 atspeople i this i dust a d a of the a e Naio al a d state a a d i e s. The a a d i e s ha e got the ade uate e posu e a d oppo tu iies to g o a d e pa d thei at ut a o -a a dees a e sill ot gei g the ade uate e posu e to lou ish a d the o k o la ou asis ith the i he p i te s. The e is a la ge se io of p i te s populaio hi h is a gi alised the ell esta lished p i te s. The ha e o e posu e to fai s, e hi iio s a d go e e t suppo t poli ies. Suppo i g the chippa o u it is the e uall i po ta t a illa o upaio - ise elated o u iies, hi h i lude the dhobi/ ashe a, the p ess/i o i g a a d othe s. A othe i po ta t o u it hi h e losel o k ith the hippa s is that of the Rangrez. The As pe the dis ussio s ith the ats a. 22 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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26 About Mend ki Chappai/ Beeswax Resist Hand Block P i i g Sa ga e i st le of p i i g is lou ishi g ut the ees a esist Me dh st le of lo k p i i g, i dige ous to the a ea, has ee lost. The t adiio all lie t o u it de a d has de li ed, though the oifs a d the olou palete o i ue to e p odu ed, al eit th ough a o pletel alte ed p odu io p o ess, a d a e sill a a ke of o u it ide it. This ha ge i the p o ess of p odu io the Me dh ees a esist p i i g is o lo ge p a ised, the a t is ea e i t. The e a e sill a fe ats e ho ha e k o ledge a out the at ut a e ot p a isi g it. The easo is p osai, the fa i used as a ase fo p i i g has o ee epla ed a lighte eight ate ial. This light eight a hi e p odu ed fa i o lo ge eeds the o e hea dut p o ess of mehnd a esist p i i g a d a faste, easie, ui ke ethod has epla ed it. Mendh ki chappai, a ees a esist lo k p i i g p o ess a e t a ed a k to o e a fe e tu ies. The e a t dates a o l e i fe ed ut the Mendh te ile a tefa ts i Cit Pala e Museu i Jaipu p o a l date a k to o e a ea s. The te h i ue used i p i i g the te ile o je ts is esist p i i g, i this e sio of esist p i i g so e po io s of fa i a e esisted a a ediu a d the d ed i the e ui ed olou s the e eai g olou ed pate s i the esisted po io s. The te h i ue appea s to e full de eloped i Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 25

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29 the pie e ie ed, a sophisi aio that i plies that it has lo g passed the de elop e t stage, ith a p a i e that is o ei ed. This te h i ue e jo s a si ila it ith dabu p i i g, ut u like dabu hi h uilises ud as the esist, Mendh Ki Chappai uilises the o e o ple a d a dous p o ess of usi g ees a as the esist ate ial. The othe spe ial featu e of the mendh is the f ag a e of the fa i hi h has ee p i ted usi g ees a /Mendh, a pleasa t a o a, hi h is etai ed the fa i fo se e al ashes. The ees a i the past as p o u ed f o the fo ests, sou ed f o the Bhil t i al s i e ha ge fo o e o goods, lothes o g ai. I ief, the a esisted the p i ted a ea a d t adiio all the olou palete as of a deep ed o i ed ith a i digo o la k. With the i st olou ei g a esisted ei g the deep ed olou, follo ed the i digo o la k olou, eithe i the i digo at o i e al la k olou. The Dabu te h i ue usi g ud esist is u e tl p a ised i othe e t es i ajastha a d Guja at, ith Bag u ei g a ell k o e t e i the ea i i it. The o igi a d p a ise of Me dh p i i g is ot lea l t a ea le, e e though a e e te si e li a sea h as u de take, ut it see s to e u i ue to Sa ga e as a i fo aio a aila le e io s this geog aphi a ea. The i fo aio stated i the do u e t is f o o al a ou ts of the atspeople isited. Fo the p ese t stud as the p a i e of Me dh ki Chappai has died out o pletel, the hole p o ess a d p o edu e as e eated fo the C at e i al T ust Sh i A desh Pa de. 28 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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36 Sh i A desh Pa de had i the past, as a ou g a ee t ai ed i his he edita p ofessio his g a dfathe a d fathe, a d had i the past p i ted te iles fo thei t adiio al lie tele usi g the te h i ues of Mendh ki chappai a d the efo e sill etai ed a e o of it. No ith fu the e ol i g a kets a d ha gi g lie t ases he o lo ge p i ts usi g ees a. His lie ts toda ha e litle i te est i t adiio al p o esses a d usto a p i ts; the e appeal is a a iegated olou palete, ha gi g te ile fa i ases a d fashio a le p i ts. We follo ed the p o ess f o sta t to i ish, lea l do u e i g the stages fo poste it. We de iated f o usto a p a i e to the e te t that the i digo d ei g fo mendh p i i g as do e fo the sake of epli aio a e e of the chippa o u it a d ot a t adiio al Neelgar rangrez. Though o, as t adiio all, the i digo a d la k olou d ei g is sill do e the rangrez, ho a e la gel f o the Musli o u it. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 35

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39 T adiio al P odu ts, T adiio al Clie ts The mendh p i i g has ee ai l used to p i t the phardas. That e e p i ted o eja fa i, the thi k, hea oto ha d o e fa i that e t i to the aki g of the pharda - the t adiio al gathe ed, full le gth ski t, the ghaghras o lehengas, o the Jat, Mee a a d Mali aste o e as dail ea. The p o ess of mendh p i i g is p ese tl ot ei g do e a p i te s fo o e ial pu poses. Ea lie reja oa se loth as used ut late the a hi e ade fa i pharda e e eated hi h e e i e sel popula a o g the peasa t o u iies, e o i g the dail ea fo the Jat, Mali a d Mee a o e. The pharda te iles of s ua e feet e e p odu ed spe iall fo Jat, Mali and Meena o e. The hole s ua e feet te ile as used to ake ghaaghras/lehengas. The phardas e e ello o ju e di i olou. The Mali o e o e lehenga of lue a d ed fa i, o hi h butas of o ia de lea es, etel lea es, chaubundi et e e p i ted. The o e g ee dupatas ith the oifs of dhaniya a d chaubundi. While the Mee a a d othe peasa t lasses o e ello pharda. Jat o e o l o e ed a d la k olou ed chundaris. The t adiio al o su e s a e o o e ea i g the mendh p i ted phardas. The easo pe haps is the a aila ilit of heape fa i s a d the less de a d fo As pe the dis ussio s ith the ats e. 38 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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44 t adiio all p i ted te iles. The a ate ials ate ha e shot up due to a The othe p odu t p odu ed as a la k dupata ith ed p i i g hi h as e popula ith the Jat o u it o e. P ese tl the e is o k o ledge a out the use of these p odu ts these o u iies. Mina Mi a s a e the la gest s heduled t i es of ajastha. The t a e thei des e t to Mi a ata, a i a aio of Vish u i the fo of a ish. The a e ai l o e t ated i the Jaipu, Al a, Bha atpu, Sa ai Madhopu, To k a d Bu di dist i ts of this State. The Mi a s etai ed a st o ghold a ou d Jaipu u il th e tu, he the e e defeated the Ka hh aha ajputs. Mi a aste is fu the su -di ided i to the )a i da s a d Cho kida s. The )a i da s a e a g oup of Mi a ho allege a ajput des e t hile the Mi a ho kida follo thei t adiio of ei g fa e s a d gua ds a d all the sel es Mi a Thaku. Thei o e d ess i a disi t a e. Mali The e a e a e doga ous g oups ithi Malis. Not all Mali g oups ha e the sa e o igi, ultu e, histo o so ial sta di g a d the e is at least o e g oup f o ajastha that o e laps ith ajputs a d as i luded u de ajput su - atego a d alled ajput Mali a d has a disi i e ha a te a d loodli es o i g f o the ajput t i es the o igi ated f o. Jat The Jats also alled as Choudha, o up a p o i e t posiio i ajastha ei g the la gest g oup i this egio. The a e di ided i to hief la s a d a out i o got as. Though the o igi of the Jat t i e is sh ouded i ste, the Jats sill et a t i al t aits. Ag i ultu e has al a s ee the ai o upaio of the Jats ut o the a e also o ki g i othe ields like ilita a d poli e. The a e also ell ep ese ted i go e e t i il se i es. The G ee e oluio ought o side a le p ospe it to the Jats i the late a d. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 43

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50 About the Printers of Mendh The ou g ats e do ot i d a i te est i this ki d of p i i g as it is too a duous, pai staki g a d the e is o lie tele. The olde ge e aio s ho p a i ed the at a e eithe ot li i g a o e o t o old to p a ise the a t. The e a e i e fa ilies ho used to do this p i i g 3. The ats e a e as follo s: Late Bal Cha d Ha ath Chippa Sh i a Kisho Chippa Sh i A dhesh Pa de Late Sh i Na a a Chippa Late Sh i Ga i Lal Chippa Late Sh i Mada Lal Chippa. Fo the p ese t stud the e i e p o ess de o st aio s e e gi e Sh i A dhesh Pa de. He is a Naio al A a dee i the ea. He has lea ed the te h i ue of mendh p i i g f o his fathe S i a Kisho Chippa ho used to p a ise mendh p i i g. But o due to old age he has stopped p a i i g the a t. His g a dfathe as a e o ed mendh p i te. The te iles p odu ed hi e e sold at s /- o e tha the a ket p i e. He as a eputed te ile p i te i Sa ga e. He is o o e As told A dhesh Pa de. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 49

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53 o ut his g a d hild e a e also pu sui g the p i i g usi ess i atu al d ei g. A dhesh Pa de s hild e a e also o ki g i the sa e usi ess. The elde so is o ki g ith the fathe a d the ou ge so is stud i g at a desig s hool i Jaipu. E e o e i the fa il o ks i the p i i g usi ess. A dhesh Pa de s ife is also i the p i i g usi ess a d she does the a illa o k like ashi g, th ead e o i g, a d ualit he k. The desig i g, a kei g a d p i i g a e all do e ale e e s. A dhesh Pa de s daughte had also lea ed the at ut she is o a ied. Chippas a i thei o o u it a d A desh ji s daughe is also a ied to a chippa ho has a s ee p i i g set up i Sa ga e. 52 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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56 Design Vocabulary of Tradiio The phardas p i ted the mendh p o ess e e ai l i la k, lue a d ed olou s a d its a ia ts o hi h uis of o ia de lea es, etel lea es, chaubundi, chakari, aisi s a d neem lea es e e p i ted. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 55

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58 Colou Palete of T adiio ed, i digo a d la k a e th ee olou s that a e used i a ious shades f o da k to deep, a d its o i aio s fo t adiio al mendh p i i g. These olou s a e de eloped i to uliple shades du i g the d ei g p o ess ith the skill of the rangrez. The ed, ollo uiall k o as begar, Bla k as syahi a d i digo is aasmani o like the sk. The olou s used i the ea lie da s e e pu el egeta le olou s a d the e e u h o e olou fast as o pa ed to the u e tl used he i al d es. U like the he i al olou s used toda the did ot fade i the su o leed i the ash. The olou s e e pleasi g a d soothi g to the e e a d e ited a pe ulia f ag a e of its o. ed sa dal, He a lea es, Po eg a ates ski, O io ski, Ratanjot, Tesu lo e, Majistha ood, a k of babul t ee a d I digo a e the fe egeta le olou s that a e used i d ei g a d p i i g. Me dh p i i g uses ed, la k a d lue as p i a olou s. Dife e t shades a e o tai a le a i g the ua it of the d e used. The ed p i i g paste is k o as begar, Bla k as syahi a d i digo is aasmani o like the sk. Begar, syahi and aasmani e ai the th ee asi olou s of mendh p i i g. The la k is olou is o tai ed ust i o s aps a d de o posi g jagge i tu e hi h is sto ed fo da s. The de o posiio auses a foul s ell. It as a e disi i e s ell a d the d e s p ese e ould e s elt f o a dista e. Thei ha ds a e o pletel olou ed la k due to d ei g of fa i ith o p ote i e gea. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 57

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60 Design Vocabulary for Mendh ki Phardas The desig o a ula fo the Mendh ki Phardas as de i ed f o atu e a d the su ou di gs. The i eho ou ed oifs ha e ee i spi ed f o the lo e s, leafs, sh u s, eepe s, i es a d pla ts, a st lised a ia t of da to da life. The ost u i e sal ui as the dhaniya/ o ia de leaf oif a d chaubundi. The idel used t adiio al desig s a e lai, athdi, pa ja, egeta le eepe s, gula ui/ ose lo e, suya ka buta, daakh bel, machhi or pa di, kele ka uta, pataasi, tu i, a gis, udauli, e da, panchklya. The desig s o e out sha p ot o l e ause of the olou ut due to the i e ess of the lo ks. The shades of ed, la k a d lue, a d the i e sha p li es of the oifs togethe eate the disi i e ha a te isi of mendh p i i g. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 59

61 Base Te ile Fa i The Raison de Etre of Mendh ki Chappai The ase fa i used fo the mendh p i i g as k o as reja, this thi k, oa se, ha d o e loth as popula i ajastha as it suited the ha d ea i g eeds of the ea e. The fa i ei g of a elai el lo oto ou t has su sta e a d thi k ess, p o idi g ool i su e a d a th i the old. This tough fa i e ui ed spe ial p o essi g fo it to e a le to a ept a d etai olou, to a ight ess a d depth that as a epta le to the lie t. The p o esses of p i i g as follo ed fo i e te iles as ot sui ie t fo the reja, as the oa se thi k fa i did ot eadil a ept o etai the olou s f o this p o ess. The ees a i mendh ki chappai sa k i to the thi k fa i, allo i g it to etai the o igi al i h ess of the olou esisted, hile si ulta eousl allo i g fo epeated dips i the i digo o /a d la k d es. epla ed o a hi e ade te iles that o p o ide the ai ase fo p i i g, the p i te o lo ge eeds to follo the de a di g p o ess of p i i g ith mendh.. This p osai, o o pla e a d a al easo is the ai underlying reason for the decline in the knowledge and usage of the mendh ki chappai p o ess, i addiio to of ou se, ha ges i o su e usage pate s a d isi g ost of the i al p odu t. The disi io i the aste a d lass of the ea e as 60 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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64 appa e t f o thei te ile usage, ith the ha d ea i g reja used lea l disi t o u iies. With ass p odu ed fa i the so ial ide it th ough ase te ile usage is al ost o pletel lost. The ha d o e reja pharda is o epla ed the a hi e o e oto pharda. U ifo it i the ass p odu ed fa i has ashed out the disi t ess of i di idual fa i e ui e e ts a oss astes a d o u iies. The a h of p og ess has gi e a to a ide a ge of fa i s fo e pe i e taio i the p i i g i dust, ith e use s a d fo e eeds ith the i ge uit of the atspeople ei g applied to alte i g usage to suit the e t pes of a aila le fa i s. This ha ge i ase te iles usage has e o ed the e essit of usi g a a esist p o ess fo p i i g. e o i g disi io s i the t pe of lo ks used, i gi g u ifo it to the p o esses that e e ea lie lea l dei ed, ith p i te s spe ialisi g i te h i ues e ui ed fo dife e t lie ts, thei i di idual po kets a d ase te ile e ui e e ts. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 63

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67 Hand Blocks of the Printers Trade The mendh p i i g e ui es e i e lo ks fo p i i g i o de that the esisted p i ts appea dei ed ith g eate la it. Woode o etal lo ks ha e oth ee used i p i i g mendh. Though lo k ake s a e a aila le i ea Jaipu a d i Sa ga e, fo Me dh p i i g the est sou e these da s, is lo ks ade i the Mee ut egio, as e e e i fo ed the p i te hi self. The lo ks fo mendh/ ees a p i i g a e p efe a l ade of etal, as the a a e easil e o ed f o the etal lo k. Though oode lo ks a also e used ut the e ui e e te si e lea i g e e i e. The etal lo ks a e also e pe si e as o pa ed to the oode lo ks a d the p epa aio i e is le gthie ut the ha e a lo ge, o e du a le life spa ; fo a t pe of p i i g etal lo ks a e o e a el used the ajo it of the p i te s. The lo ks a e of th ee t pes gad/ a kg ou d, rekh/ outli e a d data/ille. These a e the ai ui lo ks. The lo ks fo esist mendh a e sepa ate a d eed to ha e the sa e i e ess a d ualit as fo the ui lo k. 66 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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72 Other Raw material Beeswax The wax extracted from the bee hive is the unique aspect of the wax resist in Mendh p i i g. The sou i g as ot dii ult i the past due to the abundance of the bee hives in the fo ests. The t i al Bhil populaio ho e e la gel o adi used to t a el a ou d Madh a P adesh, Rajastha a d Guja at, the e t a ted the a a d other materials like gum from the trees in forests of Madh a P adesh a d a te ed the fo food, fodder and money. The auxiliary products used for p i i g e e thus p o u ed th ough Bhil t i es. The est i io s a d a o the e t a io of fo est products has impacted the industry at both the e ds ith the high ost of pu e ees a i pa i g i al p i i g p i es. Pu e ees a is o a aila le at Rs. 800 per kilogram which was earlier available at less than half the rate. Auxiliary chemicals: Soda C or commonly known as soda khar is used i ashi g of the p i ted te iles. Khar is added in the hot water which is used to e o e the a a d i al ashi g is do e fo the printed fabric. Cheed ka ras or Andoli ka tel The important component of the mendh paste is cheed ka ras that is e dii ult to p o u e. But the su situte known as Andoli ka tel is used. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 71

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81 Tools used i the P i i g Process Paaiya- the p i i g ta le. The ta le is desig ed according to the ergonomics. The printers stand while working and print on the padded table. The ta le is padded ith jute a d loth fo esilie, the fabric to be printed is stretched on it to await the appli aio of the lo k. Blocks- Wooden or Metal hand blocks are used fo the p i i g. O e is the ui block and other is mendh block that is used to resist the printed pate. B ush- The ush is used to lea the lo k ate p i i g. The a si ks to the lo k hi h is removed by this brush. A burner to heat the wax- The burner is fed ith oal. The oal p o ides the e ui ed, e e temperatured heat. The earthen vessel containing wax is put over the burning coal. The wax has to be heated o i uousl ill the p i i g is o e. Earthen/Metal vessel ( maardiya) This is the essel for keeping wax. It is either metal or earthen pot that a e heated hile p i i g is a ied o. The e a e othe essels fo lea hi g, ashi g a d cleaning. 80 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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88 Tools for Dyeing I digo ats, glo es a d a oode si k - I digo at is k o as maat/math. I digo at is a - feet deep pit he i the g ou d hose dia ete is ig e ough to i e se the fa i a d the f ee o e e t. The hole is illed ith i digo d e, ate. I o de to o tai a g ee olou po eg a ate ski s a e added to the at. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 87

89 Process and Technique These steps e e e eated fo the C at Re i al Trust research team as Mend Ki Chappai is no longer p a ised. Steps i Mendh p i i g: P e-p epa aio s:... The g e fa i is ashed a d lea hed i the su. To e ha e lea hi g the fa i is also lea hed he i all ith h d oge pe o ide. T adiio all o he i al lea hi g as do e a d the fa i as lea hed i e i et the su a s. The g e fa i is p o u ed f o E ode i Ta il Nadu. The su lea hed fa i is d ied i the su. The p o ess is k o as sukhai i lo al la guage. The p o ess of p i i g is a i e o su i g p o ess as ate e e step ashi g a d d i g is e essa. P o ess of ashi g is k o as pachdai a d d i g of fa i is sukhai. The lea hed fa i is the o da ted ith harada. The p o ess takes at least a hou. It is lea l k o that atu al d es do ot ha e ai it fo the te iles. So the te ile has to e ade e epi e to d e a so pio - This p o ess of o da i g the te iles is also k o as pila karna o harada d ei g. D i g is follo ed. 88 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

90 Step by Step Process Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 89

91 Step by Step Process 90 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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93 Step by Step Process 92 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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95 Phase I P i i g; Sanganeri style. The fa i is p i ted i the usual st le of Sanganer p i i g. I this p i i g t o t pes of olou s a e used - ed o la k. The ed olou p i i g paste is also k o as begar. See also e ipe The la k olou p i i g paste is k o as syahi. See also e ipe. The fa i is ashed a d d ied agai. Phase II P i i g fo esist... The fa i is o ead fo the i st esist p i i g phase. The ead mendh i the ea the essel o i o essel k o as mardiya is put o e the heai g oal. The te pe atu e of a out deg ees C is e ui ed fo p i i g the a. See also P o le s that a ose du i g p i i g A et loth is put o e the paai a P i i g ta le. This is a e i po ta t step i the a p i i g e ause this helps to ool of the a o the fa i. The d i g ate a p i i g is also do e i shade o the a a elt o the fa i. 94 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

96 Dyeing Recipe for washing for removal of wax. The fa i is the d ed i i digo. T o dips i i digo at p odu es g ee olou hile the - dips p odu e a da ke i digo olou. I o ails+ Jaggery+ Wate a e de o posed fo da s, ill It sta ts gi i g a foul s ell. Recipe for Mein resist 4 Ate t eat e t.. The fa i is agai d ied i shade a d the ashed i hot ate to e o e the a. The p o ess of e o i g a is k o as ukala. Alo g ith the hot ate so e soda khar is added fo lea i g. The te ile is gi e a i al ash, i sed a d d ied. Andoli ka Tel kg Cheed ka Tel- ½ kg Bee Wa - ½ kg Pa ai Wa - ½ kg The e i e p o ess fo p i i g takes a out - da s as e e step i the p o ess e ui es i si g a d ashi g. Recipe for Begar (red colour) Alu + Gu + Wate + Geru Fo the de o st aio pu poses, the paste as ade ith kg of Andoli Tel, Bee a a d Pa ai a ea h Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 95

97 Step by Step Process 96 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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99 Step by Step Process 98 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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104 P odu io Details The at is o lo ge p a ised i Sanganer. I the past the p odu io as seaso al fo mendh p i i g ith a lo poi t du i g the ai seaso due to the oistu e lade at osphe e. The fa i did ot d easil a d the p i i g p o ess e ui ed e te si e d i g a d ashi g. I i te s the a took lo ge i e to elt a d p i i g the elted a as dii ult e ause as soo as the lo ks as e o ed f o the heai g essel o tai i g a, it d ied i the old ai. The est i e fo mendh p i i g as su e s. The heai g of a as ot a p o le. Ut ost a e as e ui ed fo ooli g of the a as soo as it as p i ted o the fa i. This as possi le pui g the fa i to e p i ted o a et loth. The old loth i ediatel d ied the a o fa i su fa e. Co t olli g the app op iate easu es as u h easie du i g su e he e p i i g as est suited fo su e seaso. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 103

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107 Re o e daio s The e o e daio s fo this at, Mendh ki Chapai/ a esist p i i g of Sanganer, a o e i t at, he e the fa ilies ho k o the at ha e stopped p a isi g it, though e o of its te h i ue is sill ali e i the atspeople, is th eefold - Fi st, the Resea h a d Do u e taio oute Se o d, the Niche Revival oute Thi d, is the help to atspeople ith k o ledge Resea h a d Do u e taio oute Mendh ki Chapai/ o the a esist p i i g of Sanganer/ Bagru is o a al ost e i t at. The fa ilies ho k o the at ha e stopped p a isi g it due to a ious easo s. The efo e it is ii all i po ta t to do u e t the ats i its e i et iz; the o igi, o u it, a ate ial, p odu io a d p o esses, p odu ts, o su e s, a d sig ii a e efo e all e o of it is lost. The do u e taio e ui es i ediate a io as the e is o detailed a ou t of the at i a pu li aio o ook i fa t this ate pt C T u de the aegis of the DC Ha di ats oi e is the i st ate pt ade to do u e t the at. The do u e taio ust i lude ideo a d audio e o di gs, esides p ofessio al photog aph. Wa esist p i i g is a u usual p o ess, it is lo g d a a d pai staki g, the e eated at a e used to sho ase I dia s iad t adiio s du i g se i a s, e hi iio s a d fai s as a la guishi g/e i t te h i ue. Niche Revival The at is disi i e a d holds a spe ial pla e i the p i i g i dust of Rajastha as this is a fo of lo k p i i g that a o k su essfull o thi k, lo ou t a d hea fa i s, su h as ho e fu ishi g ate ial, dhu ies et he e o e io al ethods of lo k p i i g do ot o k so ell as issues of lu i g a d detaili g of the pate a ise, as do p o le s i deli eaio a d depth of olou Thus the e i al of Me dh at th ough p odu t de elop e t a d a kei g is e essa, th ough i he te ile usage a d its a di g. e i al of the at appoi i g a desig e to de elop the desig s a d o te po a oifs to use the i a e i o ai e a o ho e fu ishi g a d dhu ies, oade i g the o su e ase, e ou age e po t a d do esi t ade. Help to atspeople ith K o ledge The desig e / a kei g age ill also eed to sou e a ate ials as all the t adiio al ha els of p o u e e t a e lost. E te si e esea h i this a ea is e essa so that o e atspe so a i g mendh p i i g i to thei p odu io les. The a ate ial is sou ed f o the fo ests of Madh a P adesh so a t a spa e t ha el of a ate ial hai eeds to e esta lished. O e esta lished as a ete p o ess fo ho e fu ishi g ate ial, ou ge p i te s eed to e e ou aged to lea a out it f o those atspeople ho sill etai the k o ledge. A 106 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

108 o kshop o t ai i g p og a ust e do e to i g oth the ou g a d olde ge e aio togethe to e i e the at. Health safegua ds, edu aio, i oi a e fa ilit, desig de elop e t. O upaio al health fa iliies to the p i te s a d asso iated o u iies a d thei fa ilies. Health i su a e s he e fo thei fa ilies Mi o edit fa ilit fo pu hase of a ate ial as it is o e of the ajo easo fo the de li e of the at I ol i g e isi g NGO s i the luste to eate a i he a ket fo the la guishi g at alo g ith the lou ishi g Sa ga e i st le of p i i g. A a ds of E elle to the ats e asso iated i the at. The e a e a la ge u e of atspeople i lo k p i i g i Jaipu, Sa ga e a d Bag u, a d a of the a e Naio al a d state a a d i e s. The a a d i e s ha e got the ade uate e posu e a d oppo tu iies to g o a d e pa d thei at ut a o -a a dees a e sill ot gei g the ade uate e posu e to lou ish a d the o k o la ou asis ith the i he p i te s. The e is a la ge se io of p i te s populaio hi h is a gi alised the ell esta lished p i te s. The ha e o e posu e to fai s, e hi iio s a d go e e t suppo t poli ies. The high ost of the a ate ials has also i pa ted the e dh at. The pu e ees a is a aila le at s. pe kilog a hi h as ea lie a aila le at just half the ate. The etal lo ks a e also e pe si e as o pa ed to the oode lo ks that a e p ese tl used i the i dust. Metal lo ks a e e a el used the ajo it of the p i te s. The i po ta t o po e t of the mendh paste is cheed ka ras that is e dii ult to p o u e. But the su situte k o as Andoli ka tel is used. All these fa to s ha e also lead to loss of the at. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 107

109 A isa Co ta t List A dhesh Pa de Wo ks i egeta le a d atu al d ed lo k p i ted fa i s a d ho e li e s A.K. Te iles Ge Viha Khadi G a Ud og oad Sa ga e Tel: - Mo ile: a dheshak@ ahoo. o.i.akte iles.i Sa ja Chippa Y- Maha ee Naga. Behi d Cho di a pet ol pu p. Sa ga e Jaipu -. Mo ile:,,. Research Methodology Diag osi Stud o La guishi g C at leadi g to spe ii e o e daio s fo its safeguarding S tu tu ed a d No -St u tu ed Quesio ai e The a e i hi h the assess e t as o du ted as ith a st u tu ed a d o -st u tu ed uesio ai e that suited the e ui e e t/u i ue ess of o te t a d pla e spe ii issues of ea h la guishi g at. This te plate allo ed fo a a al sis ithi the o te t a d eeds of ea h la guishi g at ithi the o e all o je i es. The u st u tu ed uesio s adopted is oad, lea l a d p es ipi e to allo the aptu i g of a pi tu e of a at that is i u ge t eed of safegua di g o othe ise. The lo g list of ope e ded uesio s/a eas to e ta kled ill e o : Terms of Reference... To ide if the u e of at pe so s, thei a es, a d add ess To stud the p o le fa ed the a isa s i di iduall a d the g oup as a hole, i p a i i g the at. To stud the i te est of the a isa s i o i ui g the at t adiio B ij Balla h Udai al. To stud the ai otle e ks a d the dii ult a eas 108 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

110 .. hi h a a isa s e ou te s i p a i i g the at To stud a d gathe i fo aio hethe the at la guishi g is also p a i ed i the i i it of the a ea o outside it To stud a d a al ze e ui ed i te e io of the Go e e t iz. a iz. dife e t s he e u de i ple e taio fo de elop e t of the ha di ats se to. Cli ate espe iall its i pa t of p odu io les, a aila ilit of esou es, o o sales T a spo t li ks/a essi ilit of luste iz. oad, ail a et Nea est us staio, ailhead, f e ue of ehi les Fa iliies a aila le i a ea ou ie, postal se i es, edi al se i e, sto es he e ate ials e ui ed a e a aila le, othe sou es, etail e ues. To stud a d suggest easu e of e i al of the la guishi g at e o d the a it of Go t. s he es. Documentation Template A out the at e t e PART I A ea a e Cluste size Map Topog aph (especially presence of local water bodies) Geog aph pa i ula l to u de sta d p o le s elai g to i f ast u tu e, the p o isio of se i es, isolaio f o a kets E i o e tal o diio s i pa i ula, a e the e egai e i pa ts f o the efe t of li ate ha ge, for instance, more regular droughts, and does this afe t the luste? Ge de Ho is the o k a i it di ided et ee the ge de s. A e the a i iies i te - ha gea le? O are there gender norm, which restrict this, does this afe t p odu io? If o e a e p odu e s, hat a e thei do esi a a ge e ts Age: Is a i it / ole also depe da t o age of o ke? Probe Histo - Ho as the at i iiated i this egio? B ho? At hat i e? Fo e.g. the Mughal i iatu e pai i g t adiio al as fo all i iiated E pe o Hu a u ho on his return from exile in Persia, brought with him 2 aste s f o the Pe sia ou t. Ea l Mughal i iatu es the efo e sha e a ha a te isi s as well as content of Persian miniatures and it was not u il the eig of Ak a, ho a i el e ou aged the inclusion of regional elements that a truly Mughal st le as de eloped What pat o age did the at e jo i the past (if any) What a t/ a hite tu al/ pe fo i g a ts t adiio s Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 109

111 e ist lo all? Ha e a of these i lue es the at i a espe t? Do the sha e a oifs, s olis, itual usage? Does the pate o desig ep ese t status, age, ge de, o u it et? If so, ide if the desig, a d its ea i g. Is it p edo i a tl a at luste? What othe o upaio s e ist i the a ea? A e these li ked i a a to the at? Fo e.g. the la a e t adiio of Eikopaka e ists only because tribals journeying to the South carrying lac to be sold to the jewellers of Tamil Nadu used to pause at this lo aio a d ould a te so e of thei product in exchange for food) Is the t adiio o al? Do atspeople ha e a ess to do u e taio of thei o t adiio s? Does do u e taio e ist if es hose ha ds is it i? Nu e of p a i i g a ists/ households O iousl, a census like mapping is not possible but it would e e helpful if e ould get a se se of ho a p a iio e s e ist e e if the u e s a e e e esi ates haza ded the atspe so s PART II A e the a DCH e t es o othe asso iated go e e t o se i-go e e t i situio s i the egio eg MPHSN o ajastha State O ga isaio? A e the atspe so s o ki g ith/fo a NGOS i the egio? Whi h NGOs/ SHGs/ oope ai es a e a i e i the a ea? Ho fa is the ea est go e e t suppo t i situio? Whi h NGOs a e a i e i this a ea? This is ii al as the ould e lo g te o ito i g pa t e s Ho f e ue tl do oi e s f o go e e t suppo t i situio s isit? P o e I o de to assess a d u de sta d the lo al situaio, please p o ide a ief SWOT a al sis a out the st e gths; eak esses, a d th eats to the luste. About the tools What tools a e used? Whe e a e the sou ed f o? Ho u h do the ost? ( Do keep an eye out for i o aio s ade the atspeople su h as the i le pu p ope ated d e sp a e i e ted a atspe so i Ku hh to fa ilitate e e stai i g of large bolts of fabric) If the a e ade the atspe so s the sel es, ho is this do e? What a e the alled lo all please use e a ula te s a d i lude t a slaio s fo sa e I lude all tools used like d e pots, p i i g eds, ta les et i ase of p i i g. Spe if ate ials, p i es, easu e e t, f e ue of pu hase Quesio a ess to go e e t fu ds/s he es fo pu hase of tools/d e ats et 110 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

112 About the raw materials What is the ase ate ial used? Does it dife fo dife e t p odu ts Whe e a e the sou ed f o? B ho? Ho u h do the ost? A e a ate ials eadil a aila le? If ot, hat a e the halle ges fa ed i a essi g the ate ial? I hat ua it is it pu hased. What a e the i i u s Ho a e ate ials sto ed? If the ate ial is p odu ed lo all, hi h o u it p odu es it? Ha e the e ee a ha ges i the ate ial used? Whe e as it sou ed f o ea lie What p o pted the ha ge? Does a ket de a d fo heape p odu ts esult i su situio ith heape a ate ials? Ho has it i pa ted the fo /st le/ p odu t? Ca a ate ials e pu hased o edit? If es f o ho a d at hat i te est ate? Is the e a olle i e p o u e e t of ate ials o is it do e i di iduall? I ase of halle ges, hat do the ats e the sel es e o e d to i p o e the situaio? About the process Note the e i e p odu io p o ess, step step, ith a li e de o st aio, ii g do a a io s, a d, o e pla aio s, i ludi g i e f a es fo ea h step. Des i e i detail the p o ess follo ed i step- step a e ith photog aphs fo ea h stage. Des i e the p i a o k a ea a d p epa aio s, alo g ith the a ou t of i e take i ea h step. Note the desi ed output of ea h step o siste / olou /te tu e/ olu e; a d a i g sig s that the p o ess is goi g o g. At ea h stage, oss he k the se ue es of the p odu io p o ess. A e the e a spe ii stages i the te h i ue o o i aio s of te h i ues that dei ii el ha a te ise this pa i ula t adiio? What spe ial skills a e e ui ed to ake the p odu t? Does e e o e i the luste possess the skills a d e pe ise fo aki g it? Ha e the e ee a i o aio s i te h i ue? Des i e. What a e the astes asso iated ith the p o ess? Ho a e the disposed of? Ha e a alue addiio s ee ade to the p odu t? Who ha e the t adiio al desig s, oifs/la outs ha ged? Is the aste atspe so espo si le? A e desig s skills passed o pa i ula o u it Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 111

113 e e s? Note, that this may be informal, for e a ple, th ough o al t adiio s. What is the t adiio al o a ula fo desig s please gi e lo al a es? Whi h is the oldest k o desig? What desig s a e asso iated ith ituals? A e desig s eadil adapted? What desig s a e fa ou ed o? Who i t odu ed the? About infrastructure Does the luste ha e ele t i it? Fo ho a hou s i the da? If ot, h is ele t i it ot a aila le? A e the e alte ai e opio s fo po e, if so, hat a e the? Do the ha e ge e ato s? What a out ate suppl? Taala s/ta ks/ ate sou e I ase of d ei g te iles, he e a e the ashed, d ed, d ied? E iste e of health a d safet sta da ds a d easu es. If o e, e ist a e the e ui ed? (For e.g. a e the o kshops ell illu i ated? Ask the a out thei health; list a health p o le s, alo g ith s pto s. List pote ial he i al, to i, ele t i al, heat, oise, a d, o e go o i haza ds. A e thei a health e t es ea? E o-f ie dl te h i ues o ate ials fo t eai g a ate ial, at p o ess, a d/o disposal of astes/ -p odu ts Whe e do the o ke s li e? If i a housi g- u - o k shed please des i e. I lude i fo aio o toilets. If the li e a a f o the o kshop a ea, ho do the o ute to o k a d ho lo g does it take to o ute? Is the e a o pute, ith a ess to i te et I fo aio Co u i aio Te h olog ICT a aila le? A e the e the k o ledge a d e pe ise to use o pute s? If so, is the e a e ail add ess fo the luste, ith a o i ated pe so ho has the skills to e ei e a d se d e ails? Do the ha e a Co o Fa ilit Ce t e? If es get all details Do the hild e go to s hool? Is the e a sho oo he e isito s o lie ts a see the te iles p odu ed? Spe if e ui e e ts fo the luste to i p o e ualit of life A out the desig, olou palete a d p odu t a ge What e e the t adiio al p odu ts ade ith this at? Does the p odu t a ge ei g eated toda dife? If so, i hat a? What has aused these ha ges? 112 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

114 Who as the usto e fo the t adiio al p odu t? A e the a spe ii p i ts, olou s, oifs asso iated ith the o u it, i othe o ds, its u i ue desig t adiio s? Des i e oifs, oth t adiio al a d o t adiio al, a st a t, a d igu ai e et. Do the ha e a do u e taio? O is e e thi g o al? What is the s olis asso iated ith the oifs used? We e the p odu ts p odu ed/ used o spe ii o asio s su h as eddi gs, deaths, ituals, fesi als et? Ha e these ee epu posed ith ha ges i the a kets ate ed to? Who is the usto e fo the u e t p odu t? Ho did the atspe so ea h this e a ket seg e t? Do the atspe so s p odu e a p odu ts fo thei o / lo al use? P o ide a list of p odu ts, alo g ith photog aphs a d des ipio s i ludi g te tu e, ualit, feel, olou, p i e, look, sizes. P o e p i es Is the e a p odu t de elop e t le that the luste follo s? Does the luste a i el desig e p odu ts? Who desig s the p odu ts? A e desig e s hi ed? A e a ists ope to o ki g ith desig e s? Is the e a ualit he k? What a e the e h a ks used the luste fo easu i g ualit? Is the p odu t desig ed ith a a e ess fo e i o e tal o e s, hu a safet, health, o fo t, a d p odu t pe fo a e? Do p odu ts o tai i fo aio o the ate ial o te t of the p odu t alo g ith a e i st u io s? Do p odu ts ha e a p odu t ide ii aio s ste that is si ple a d eas to u de sta d? What is disi t a out the p odu t? What is its U i ue Selli g P oposiio USP? P o e desig de elop e t i te e io Go t a d othe s Is the e a luste desig e appoi ted? If es, p o e A out p odu io What is the le of p odu io? Fo i sta e, is it seaso al? Ho has this ha ged f o the ethod of o igi al p odu io, if at all? Whe e does p odu io take pla e? I the housi g u o k shed, i a ka kha a, at a Co o Fa ilit Ce t e/ at the Coop? Spe if Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 113

115 Is ea h step of the p odu io o pleted i o e e t al lo aio, o a e the e uliple lo aio s? Des i e the a ist s o kpla e. Des i e the ge e al o diio s. What is the p odu io apa it of a luste / atspe so / ka kha a? What is o side ed a la ge o de? What is the i i u o de ua it to e p odu ed fo the o de to e e o o i all ia le? What is the total ua it of p odu io i a ea? What is the p oit a gi? Ho u h of this is ei ested i the usi ess? Ca o siste i ualit of output e assu ed, espe iall if la ge p odu io o de s a e e ei ed? A e the e te h ologi al i te e io s that ould e do e i p o e p odu i it? This ould take pla e at a stage of the p odu io p o ess. Does the o u it fa e o peiio f o the o ga ized/ ass p odu io a ufa tu i g e t es? Ho has this i pa ted thei usi ess? Has a Go e e t s he e helped to i p o e p odu io? A t ai i g p og a s ee o ga ized to i p o e p odu io? A out the atspe so s To de elop a u de sta di g of the halle ges, p o le s, o st ai ts a d pa a ete s ithi hi h the atspe so s ope ate a sele io of the should e i te ie ed. Is the at the t adiio al o upaio of the atspe so s fa il o is it a elai el e l a ui ed skill? If e, he as this o upaio take up a d h? If it as the t adiio al o upaio, t a e the fa il histo th ough a t ee a d e plo e a thi al/ folklo e o e ts that e plai thei a i al/setle e t i the egio o thei i iiaio i to the at. A e the li ked to si ila at o u iies i othe pa ts of the ou t? Ha e a t ai ed ats e / o u it e e s let thei t adiio? easo h What a e so e of the p o le s that the fa e hi h i pa ts the su i al of the at, fo i sta e, a ess to a kets, o a ate ials, et? What a e the easo s fo the la guishi g at t adiio s, a d su esses a d failu es i e i al? T ai i g Ho did the i di idual lea the t ade? Who did the app e i e ith? Ho lo g did the p o ess take? A e the e e ui e e ts fo skill le els, t ai i g, a d, o de elop e t? Pe so al uesio s What a e thei hopes a d aspi aio s? Do the pa i o e ta? Do they own o ile pho es? Do the ha e i su a e? What is thei le el of edu aio? Do the ha e a k 114 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai