GLY 4734/6932: Coastal Morphology and Processes
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1 GLY 4734/6932: Coastal Morphology and Processes In-Class Exercise think about these questions to answer at the end of class Name and where are you from? What coast are you most familiar with or are you currently interested in? What are some issues there that grab your attention? During the semester, consider how each topic we cover affects your coast (i.e. tectonics, wave climate, sediment supply/local rivers, population/human infrastructure, hazard vulnerability). I'll start with an example... 1
2 Why is the coast important to study? Societal Reasons Hazard/Climate/Environmental Reasons Geologic Reasons Societal Reasons - Coastal Population 30 coastal states contain 62% of US population and 12/13 largest cities 53% of US pop. lives w/in 50 miles of the shore (83% in Australia) in 1973: 440,000 km of global coastline / 3.3 billion humans = 13?cm each today: 440,000 km of global coastline / 6.7 billion humans = 6.5?cm each 2
3 Societal Reasons Coastal Development Development along our coastlines continues to expand Property insurance concerns Societal Reasons Coastal Infrastructure Populations Pressures Transportation Safety Infrastructure Alsea Bay, Waldport, OR - Photo credit: Paul Komar 3
4 Societal Reasons - Agricultural Example: Nile Delta Concept of dynamic equilibrium Construction of Aswan Dam has shut off sediment supply Result: rapid coastal recession rates = m/yr Coastal Hazards - Hurricanes 4
5 Hazards/Climate Reasons Example: Hurricanes Ivan and Katrina LIDAR data - newish technology Dauphine Island, Alabama Hazards/Climate Reasons Landform changes caused by the storm events LIDAR surveys - Dauphine Island, Gulf Coast of Alabama 5
6 Hazards/Climate Reasons - Sea Level Rise Gainesville WAIS (10% of Antarctic Ice) collapse? Hazards/Climate Reasons - Sea Cliff Retreat Examples 6
7 Biota, Habitat, Ecological Reasons Uplift Lithologic Response Wave Energy Imparted to Coast Sea Level Change Beaches Offshore Wave Climate Florida coast Wave - major Transformation nesting site for Loggerhead turtles (67 kilonests/yr) NASA-KSC Lights from Space Shuttle launch pad infrastructure disorient nesting turtles Geologic Reasons Generation of Stratigraphy Uplift Lithologic Response Wave Energy Imparted to Coast Sea Level Change Beaches Wave Transformation Offshore Wave Climate 7
8 History of Science of Coastal Geomorphology Greeks (Herodotus) and the Nile 'delta' da Vinci and the Pontine Marshes in Italy - 15th century Captain Cook's voyages shed light Lithologic on many Response coastal reaches worldwide Early geologists Uplift (Hutton, Lyell) recognized the coast as a modern depositional environment responsible for sedimentary rock generation. Wave Energy Imparted to Coast Sea Level Change Early geomorphologists (de Beaumont, Huxley) identified the link between process and form along the coast. Darwin theorized on the origins and evolution of reefs and atolls. Even Grove Beaches Karl Gilbert interpreted abandoned terraces in Utah to testify to the presence of Pleistocene lakes in the western U.S. Early 20th century: Douglas Johnson's application of William Morris Davis's "geographical cycle" -New England coast World War II and Wave in the Transformation Cold War era which followed - scientists at Scripps Institution of Oceanography (Sverdrup, Munk, Shepard, and Inman) Offshore Wave Climate In-Class Exercise Name and where are you from? What coast are you most familiar with or are you currently interested in? What are some issues there that grab your attention? During the semester, consider how each topic we cover affects your coast (i.e. tectonics, wave climate, sediment supply/local rivers, population/human infrastructure, hazard vulnerability). I'll start with an example... 8
9 South-Central Alaska 9
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