XBeach modeling at various temporal and spatial scales
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1 //oss.deltares.nl/web/xbeach XBeach modeling at various temporal and spatial scales Ad Reniers, RSMAS, UM : Impact of time and process scales
2 XBeach modeling concepts avalanching dune Wave groups c g Bound and free long waves Wave-flow motions time scale: 25 s <T< 250 s Wave breaking and surface rollers Sediment transport and bed level changes gh
3 XBeach dune erosion Dx~1m L~200 m D~O(1)hr No avalanching Need smaller scale processes such as wave groups and avalanching for dune erosion prediction! No wave groups Roelvink et al., 2009
4 XBeach breaching Dx, Dy ~0.5-50m L~100 m x 100 m D~O(10) hr Roelvink et al., 2009
5 Xbeach overwash Dx, Dy ~0.5-50m, 20 m L~3000 m x 3000 m D~O(10) hr Santa Rosa Island McCall et al., 2010 Good model skill!
6 Longer time scales Xbeach is typically operated on the storm time scale (order of days)! Need for longer simulations including beach recovery to assess coastal resilience/safety Easier said than done!
7 In-model acceleration techniques Dx, Dy ~100m, L~15 km 2 D~O(hr), morfac = 100 T = 200 days Morphological factor Wave and tidal schematizations Continuity correction Parallel computing Does not add functionality! Roelvink and Reniers, 2011
8 Short-term vs long-term Waves non-linear bed-shear stress wave groups and swash motions wave breaking and turbulence Stokes drift Currents streaming return flow rip currents longshore currents tidal currents Sediment grain size hiding Wind storm surge wind stress upwelling/downwelling Stratigraphy Vegetation Urbanization Dredging Nourishments Revetments Sea level rise Storm intensity Sediment transport Barrier island roll-over Tidal delta-formation River mouth migration Cyclic sand bars Coastal erosion Big question: How to pull this off?
9 Example:Barrier Island Recovery Overwash during storms Different sediment types Vegetation Storm surge Breaking waves Wind Sea level Peat/mud sand Need for onshore sediment transport to restore the barrier island! Pre-storm Post-storm Post recovery
10 XBeach process modeling Typical xbeach modeling leads to persistent erosion of the shore line and cannot explain the profile recovery. Onshore mass flux erosion accretion Return flow What are we missing?
11 Swash processes Intra-wave XBeach Turbulent bore transports sediment on to the beach TKE Intra-wave processes Even smaller scales!! Van Rooijen, A., 2011
12 Profile stability Gallagher et al., 2011 Grain size varies in time and space! Alongshore average profile is (surprisingly) stable. Grain size is morphologically coupled. Can we model this?
13 Multiple sediment classes Equilibrium conc. for each class: C eq ( i) frc( i,1) C * eq ( i) C * eq f TKE, U, slope, D Z Volumetric fraction of each class: frc( i, j) Vol ( i, i N i 1 j) Vol ( i, j) Bed level change for each class: Dt S S n x y ix, Dzi 1 p Total bed level change: iy, Z = 0 Sediment class number (i) Layer index number (j) D z i N D z i 1 i
14 XBeach intra-wave modeling Dx =1 m, Dz = 0.1 m, 10 layers L= 65 m, 10 grain sizes ( mm), D~O(10) hr, T = 10 days --- Observed profile change Gallagher et al., 2011 Observed mean surface grain size Stable profile Grain size sorting
15 Synopsis To predict onshore sediment transport required for recovery we had to include smaller scale processes! Seems like a long way to go before we can say something about long time scales 1. Need to aggregate the small scale process results to longer time scales 2. Need to couple systems to enhance functionality
16 Beach recovery? Onshore sediment transport Berm building Aeolian transport New vegetation New Buildings/roads Much longer time scales!
17 Systems coupling (Sauermann and Hermann) CSDMS Assateague Island Fedor Baart, Gennadii Donchyts Jaap van Thieldevries, Martijn Muller, Nathaniel Plant, Bert Jagers, e.o.
18 Thank you Dano Roelvink Ap van Dongeren Jaap van Thieldevries Jamie Lescinski Robert McCall Fedor Baart Bram van Prooijen Arnold van Rooijen Pieter van Geer Bas Hoonhout Bert Jagers Gennadii Donchyts Martijn Muller Nathaniel Plant Dave Thompson Edie Gallagher Ed Thornton Jamie MacMahan Ad van der Spek And many others
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20 Vegetation affect is modeled as in increased bottom friction Overwash
21 Xbeach predictions initial final Final no wave groups
22 XBeach applications Orzech et al., 2010, beach cusp formation
23 XBeach applications Lindemer et al., 2010, overwash Chandeleur Islands multiple overwash events of Chandeleur Islands ignoring beach recovery!
24 Example 1: sea level rise Bruun rule: Beach profile will adapt to new environmental conditions. In case of sea level rise this leads to coastal erosion: R xcdh ( d d ) c d R x c dh d d erosion d c deposition Concept is based on equilibrium profile
25 Equilibrium profile General idea: if wave conditions persist long enough the beach profile will reach an equilibrium where the cross-shore transport gradients equal zero. d A p 2 3 x x c A p ( ln 2 D 50 ) x c Dean profile d c d c Effect of D 50 (not to scale) : Steeper profile for coarser sediment (profound impact on erosion!) R>> for D 50 <<
26 Q1: constant D50? Not really. Varies in time and space. Morphologically coupled! Gallagher et al., 2011
27 Morphological acceleration Roelvink and Reniers, 2011
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