LABORATORY STUDY OF DRAG AND INERTIA FORCES ON A BRANCHED CORAL COLONY OF ACROPORA PALMATA
|
|
- Nigel Sims
- 5 years ago
- Views:
Transcription
1 Proceedings of the 6 th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab16) Ottawa, Canada, May 10-13, 2016 Copyright : Creative Commons CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 LABORATORY STUDY OF DRAG AND INERTIA FORCES ON A BRANCHED CORAL COLONY OF ACROPORA PALMATA JUAN DAVID OSORIO-CANO 1, ANDRES F. OSORIO 1, HOCINE OUMERACI 2 1 Research Group in Oceanography and Coastal engineering, OCEANICOS, Department of Geosciences and Environment, Universidad Nacional de Colombia at Medellín, Colombia, jdosori0@unal.edu.co, afosorioar@unal.edu.co ABSTRACT 2 Technische Universität Braunschweig, Leichweiß-Institute for Hydraulic Engineering and Water Resources,Germany, h.oumeraci@tu-braunschweig.de This study aims at improving the understanding of near-bed hydrodynamics in a coral reef by examining the drag and inertia coefficients of the species Acropora palmata. This coral species was selected for parameterization due to its capacity to survive in wave/current exposed areas with moderate to high energy environments, where its branches and the global structure of its colonies play an important role for wave damping. Small scale experiments were carried out for two different flow regimes: steady and oscillatory flow. For this purpose, a current flume as well as a wave flume were used. In-line forces, flow velocities and water surface elevations over 3-D models of A. palmata were measured for two main configurations: a single coral and a group of corals. The results show that under steady flow conditions, the drag coefficient (C D) can be well represented as a function of the Reynolds number by means of a power law equation, C D = are b + c (determination coefficient, R 2 >0.98). Also, under oscillatory flow conditions, for the studied rigid coral with flat branches, it is shown that the inertia force (F M) dominates over the drag component (F D), explaining up to 83% of the total force exerted on the coral structure. KEWORDS: Force coefficients, Wave energy, Drag force, Inertia force, Coral reefs. 1 INTRODUCTION Coral reefs not only provide food and shelter for at least one quarter of all ocean species, contributing to preserve biodiversity hotspots and sites for tourism activities, fishing and recreation (Burke et al. 2011), but also, they work as barriers that protect much of the world's coastlines against sea waves. The physical processes involved in dissipating wave energy for these reef systems are generally strongly influenced by steep slopes, heterogeneous bathymetry and large bottom roughness, which involve complex wave transformation processes, including refraction, shoaling, reflection and wave breaking accompanied by an enhancement of frictional energy dissipation (Monismith 2007; Young 1989; Lugo-Fernández, H. Roberts & Suhayda 1998). On the other hand, as waves move from deep waters over a steep reef-slope towards a flat reef-plateau, these wave transformation processes become highly non-linear (Jensen 2002). Wave transformation and wave attenuation have been studied primarily in the steep transition zone to the outer reef flat in laboratory models of fringing reefs (e.g., Gourlay 1994; Gourlay 1996; Gourlay & Colleter 2005; Massel & Gourlay 2000) or over natural fringing and barrier reefs (e.g., Hardy & Young 1996; Lowe et al. 2005; Young 1989; Lugo-Fernández et al. 1998). In terms of wave attenuation due to bottom friction, the most important aspects to be considered are related not only to the geometry or geomorphology of the reef profile, but also to the roughness and porosity of the reef surface. These aspects are highly correlated with the density of coral colonies and species distribution along the reef and have to be considered in order to understand their influence on wave attenuation. For example on reef flats with rough bottoms in shallow waters, frictional dissipation has been considered as a primary component of the total wave energy dissipation (Falter et al. 2004; Lowe et al. 2007; Lowe, Falter, et al. 2005; Nelson 1996). 1
2 Understanding the mechanics of the wave boundary layer is important to accurately model and predict near-shore currents that, in turn, affect coastal erosion, pollutant dispersal, and the health of coastal ecosystems. The wave flow over these boundaries has typically been approached considering homogenous bottom roughness. However, Pawlak & Maccready (2002) examined how oscillatory flows react to different roughness scales and showed that both the length scales and distribution of roughness elements introduce mechanisms that can enhance energy dissipation near the boundary. These results suggest that for an accurate determination of bed friction processes, a detailed characterization of bed roughness is needed along with effective parameterization schemes. Despite all the contributions to this field of research, parameterization of bed roughness is still not an exact science. Theory suggests that roughness length scales and distribution both play an important role in the mechanisms of wave energy dissipation (Nunes & Pawlak 2008). The understanding of the physical processes that occur over submerged reefs is still a research topic, particularly in near-shore environments with shallower water depths and larger bottom roughness. In addition, very few studies have been carried out, both from the theoretical and numerical perspectives, to investigate the role of corals in mitigating storm waves or even tsunamis. Therefore, this study is aimed at contributing to improve the understanding of near-bed dynamics over coral reefs by examining the force coefficients. Specifically, the effect of the flow regime (oscillatory or steady flow conditions) on the drag and inertia coefficients of a branched coral species will be studied. Towards this aim, the paper is structured as follows: Section 2 describes the materials and methods for steady and oscillatory regimes. Section 3 contains the results for the drag and inertia coefficients. Finally, the discussion and conclusions are drawn in Section 4. 2 MATERIALS AND METHODS 2.1 Selection of coral species for parameterization The coral species Acropora palmata, called elkhorn coral (Figure 1a), is selected for parameterization due to its geometrical characteristics and its ability to survive in moderate to high energy environments (reef crest or fore reef terrace) associated with the incident waves and currents. Its branches and the global structure of its coral colony play an important role on the wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction. However, there is still a gap of knowledge regarding the contribution to the wave damping caused by its roughness. This is mostly due to measurement difficulties and the high costs of field campaigns. There are several ways to obtain hydrodynamic information of Acropora palmata. On the one hand, the coral could be extracted from its natural habitat and the sample could then be tested under laboratory conditions. Nevertheless, this branched coral can reach lengths of up to 2m by 2m (in a plan view) which makes the extraction not only nearly impossible but also not feasible due to environmental restrictions. As an alternative, researchers could use coral skeletons. But then again, even if these were available, experiments would be expensive given that a large flume would be necessary to perform the laboratory tests at a real scale. For these reasons, in this study we use a 3-D model of the Acropora palmata. This model is created based on the general shape of this branched coral, as observed during a field campaign at San Andrés and Providencia islands, Colombian Caribbean Sea (Figure 1(a)). The morphological characteristics of the coral are scaled to generate a digital model, which is designed using a free and open-source 3-D graphic software called Blender. Then, the 3-D physical model is obtained using a 3-D printer. For this study two different configurations of corals are printed and tested, (i) a single coral colony of A. Palmata (scale 1:8) and (ii) a group of six coral colonies (scale 1:12) (Figure 1(b)). Figure 1. (a) Acropora palmata colonies at San Andres Island (Colombian Caribbean Sea) and (b) 3-D model of A. palmata elaborated with ABS plastic material using a 3D printer machine. 2
3 For this study, the structure of this coral is considered completely stiff. Accordingly, the 3-D model is printed using two rigid materials: ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) and PLA (Poly Lactic Acid) plastic. ABS is made from oilbased resources with a high melting point, while PLA is a biodegradable type of plastic, manufactured from plant-based resources such as cornstarch or sugar cane. However, ABS is chosen since prototypes printed with this material are stronger than those made of PLA. 2.2 Experimental set-up for steady flow conditions Small-scale experiments are performed in a horizontal current flume (8 m long, 0.3 m wide and 0.6 m height) at the Leichweiß-Institute for Hydraulic Engineering and Water Resources (LWI) in Braunschweig, Germany. The water surface elevation is measured using four wave gauges (WG), as shown in figure 2. In-line forces are obtained with a force transducer mounted on the bottom of the coral model, while flow velocities are obtained with an electromagnetic current meter (ECM) Experiments are carried out using five different water depths (0.24 m, 0.20 m, 0.16 m, 0.13 m and 0.07 m) in combination with six flow velocities (0.05 m/s, 0.1 m/s, 0.2 m/s, 0.3 m/s, 0.45 m/s and 0.55 m/s). This leads to different Reynolds numbers, which have been used by several authors to evaluate the behaviour of the drag coefficient on marine organisms under different scenarios of flow velocities and water depths (Samuel & Monismith 2013; Paul & Amos 2011). Figure 2. Model set-up and measuring techniques for the experiments performed in the current flume 2.3 Experimental set-up for oscillatory flow conditions (regular waves) For the case of regular waves, experiments are carried out in the smaller wave flume ( Berliner Rinne ) of the Leichtweiß- Institute für Wasserbau (LWI), TU Braunschweig, Germany. This wave flume is made out of a smooth material (Plexiglas) and has a width of 0.30 m. It also has length of m, with two different sections: Section 1, with a height of 0.53 m in the first 3.42 m and Section 2, with a height of 0.38 m in the next 15.9 m. In addition, this wave flume has a piston type wave paddle capable of generating regular sinusoidal waves. Different scenarios are tested considering four different water depths (0.24m, 0.20m, 0.16m, 0.13m) in combination with three wave heights (0.075m, 0.05m and 0.03m) and three wave periods (2.0s, 1.5s, 1.0s). A total number of 60 tests are performed: 30 tests for the single coral model and 30 tests for the group of corals model. All experiments correspond to an intermediate water depth (1/20 < d/l < L/2). Figure 3. Model set-up and measuring techniques for the experiments performed in the Berliner Rinne wave flume. 3
4 3 RESULTS 3.1 Drag forces and drag coefficients under steady flow Figure 4 shows the comparison of the square mean flow velocity (u 2 ) and mean total forces (F) obtained for the different water levels, for the single coral model and for the group of corals. For the latter, the in-line force corresponds to the total force exerted on the whole structure (group of 6 corals). Figure 4. Comparison of square flow velocities (u 2 ) vs hydraulic total force (F) for different water levels, considering (a) single coral model and (b) group of 6 corals. Results show that a linear relationship between the flow velocity (u 2 ) and the total force (F) can be considered for both for a single coral (Fig. 4a) and for the group of corals (Fig. 4b). Also, for the single coral experiments, forces increase as the water level increases. However, in general, for the case of the group of corals the forces behave differently from those on the single for the different water depths tested, given that in the former case the maximum forces are obtained for the minimum water level. These results can be explained by considering that for the group of corals the area exposed to the flow is higher compared to that of a single coral, which leads to an increase in the total force over the whole structure. In order to estimate the drag coefficient (C D ), the non-dimensional equation (Eq. 1) was used. In this formulation, F D is the total drag force under steady state conditions, ρ is the density of the fluid, C D is the drag coefficient, u is the free-stream velocity, and A p is the frontal or projected area of the coral structure normal to the flow direction (Figure 5). C D = 2F D ρu 2 A p (1) Figure 5. Projected area Ap perpendicular to the flow direction for each coral model. 4
5 The Reynolds number (Re=ρuL/μ) will be used to assess the behaviour of the drag coefficient under different scenarios. Hence, for its estimation, it is necessary to properly define the characteristic length scale (L). Several authors have proposed different definitions for L according to the geometry and the configuration of the structure inside the water column. Samuel and Monismith (2013) presented an approach to evaluate the drag coefficient C D as function of the Reynolds number using real corals skeletons of Pocillopora verrucosa, Stylophora pistillata and Porites compressa. Their results were related to simple geometrical shapes like solid and hollow spheres. Thus, they defined the characteristic length scale as the diameter of a sphere with the same projected area as the projected area (perpendicular to flow direction) of the coral colony, that is L = 4A p /π. Other authors have represented this parameter as the diameter or length of a vertical cylinder, equivalent in terms of the hydraulic behaviour to the coral colony (Lowe et al., 2005b). In our case, none of these formulations for the characteristic length scale are appropriate to represent our branched coral species. Moreover, given the morphology (size and shape) of Acropora palmata it is not possible to simplify this coral species using a single geometrical shape. For this reason, we use an alternative equation for L based on the volume of the coral structure (V s) and the projected area (A p), as, L = V s /A p. Figure 6(a) and (b) show the drag coefficients (C D ) obtained using Eq. 1 vs. the Reynolds numbers (Re), for different flow velocities and water depths. In both cases (the single coral and the group of corals), C D appears to decrease as the Reynolds number increases. Furthermore, it can be seen that the drag coefficient decays rapidly for small values of Re (Re<1000) and is highly dependent on the water depth, while for larger numbers of Re, C D reaches a constant value (approximately C D = 1.2 at Re > ). In addition, as expected, the magnitude of C D (for each flow velocity) is lower for the case of the group of corals compared to the single coral case. Figure 6. Comparison of drag coefficients (CD) vs. Reynolds numbers (Re) under unidirectional flow for (a) single coral and (b) the group of corals at different water depths. To quantify the behaviour of the drag coefficient as a function of the Reynolds number, a power law is fitted to the data, as C D = are b + c. This is achieved using a nonlinear least squares regression algorithm, with bounds set at a 95% confidence level. Results of this fitting process and the goodness of fit for different water levels are presented in Tables 1 (single coral) and 2 (group of corals). In all cases results are statistically significant with values of the coefficient of determination R 2 >0.98. Table 1. Power law model for the drag coefficient (CD) and goodness-of-fit for a single Coral Single Coral Water level Power law, CD = are b + c SSE R 2 RMSE WL Re WL Re WL Re WL Re WL Re
6 Table 2. Power law model for drag coefficient (CD) and goodness-of-fit for the group of corals Group of Corals Water level Power law, CD = are b + c SSE R 2 RMSE WL Re WL Re WL Re WL Re WL Re Hydraulic resistance of coral colonies under oscillatory flow There are three types of hydrodynamic forces that act upon a coral colony as a wave passes over it: inertial, lift and drag. This study focuses mainly on the drag forces induced by horizontal water velocity generated by passing waves and inertial forces induced by water acceleration. Velocity-induced lift force, which acts vertically on a colony, is typically an order of magnitude less than the drag force (Madin et al., 2006) and is not considered in this study. Furthermore, the drag force is expected to be dominant for slender coral bodies, i.e. branched corals, whereas the inertia force is expected to be dominant for large coral bodies, i.e. massive coral species. Lift forces for branched corals are expected to be small given their geometric shape (Baldock et al., 2014). The drag (C D ) and inertia (C M ) coefficients are highly influenced by the geometrical characteristics of the coral, its structural integrity and the flow dynamics characterized by the Reynolds number (Re) and Keulegan-Carpenter (KC) number (Keulegan & Carpenter 1958). This KC number is defined as KC=uT/L, where u is the maximum horizontal flow velocity, T is the wave period and L is the characteristic length scale defined for this study as L=V s/a p. The determination of C D and C M so far has been derived indirectly from the measured velocities and surface elevations of laboratory experiments (or field measurements) using the Morison equation (Morison et al., 1950), as F T = F D + F M = 1 2 ρc DA p u u + ρc M V s u t, (2) where: F T : Total force [N], C D : drag coefficient [-], C M : inertia coefficient [-], F D : drag force [N], F M : inertia force [N], A p : frontal area of the object [m 2 ], ρ: water density [kg/m 3 ], V s : volume of the object [m 3 ], u: flow velocity [m/s] and u t : flow acceleration [m/s 2 ]. Equation (2) consists of two terms, the drag force (F D ) as a function of flow velocity and the inertia force (F M ) as a function of flow acceleration. For the interaction of waves and corals, both forces are significant, depending on the coral species, water level and hydrodynamic conditions. Figure 7 presents an example of the series of in-line forces on the tested group of corals, orbital velocities and the free surface elevation, for a particular case of regular waves (H=0.03 m, T=1 s, WL=0.13 m). The series of flow acceleration (dotted red line in Figure 7) is obtained by calculating the local derivative of the velocity ( u ), considering a time step of t=0.01s. t Figure 7. Comparison of the in-line force FT, horizontal flow velocity u and flow acceleration ( u ) obtained for the tested group of corals (H=0.03m T=1.0 s, WL=0.13m) t 6
7 Figure 7 shows that the free surface (η) is in phase with the horizontal orbital velocity u and that there is a phase difference of 90 between the flow velocity u and acceleration ( u ). That is, acceleration is maximum when the velocity is zero, and acceleration is zero when flow velocity is maximum. On the other hand, it should be pointed out that the maximum in-line force values do not occur at the same time flow velocity is maximum. t There are several methodologies for the determination of the drag and inertia coefficients under oscillatory flow conditions (Recio & Oumeraci 2007). For practical purposes, the least squares method (Recio & Oumeraci 2007; Journée & Massie 2001), is implemented to account for force coefficients C D and C M from the experiments conducted in the small wave flume Berliner Rinne, as described below Least squares method This method assumes that the predicted total force F P can be estimated as follows, where: F P = λ D u u + λ M u t, (3) λ D = 1 2 ρc DA p (4) λ M = ρc M V s (5) By defining ε 2 = [F P F T ] 2 as the quadratic total error between the predicted and the measured forces over the total length of measurements, then ε 2 u = [λ D u u + λ F M t T] 2. (6) Since the least squares method requires that the error ε 2 should be minimal, then following system of equations is obtained: λ D u 4 + λ M u u u t = u u F T λ D u u u t + λ M ( u t ) 2 = u t F T ε 2 λ D = 0, and ε2 λ M = 0, and thus the This system can be solved simultaneously to get λ D and λ M. Then these values can be replaced in Eqs. (4) and (5) to obtain force coefficients C D and C M. (7) Figures 8(a) and (b) show the drag and inertia coefficients as a function of the Reynolds number, Re, for all water levels, while Figure 8(c) and (d) show these coefficients as a function of Keulegan-Carpenter number, KC. The colors are associated with each water level as follows: water level=0.24m (WL24, black), water level=0.20m (WL20, red), water level=0.16m (WL16, blue), water level=0.13m (WL13, magenta). For each water level, two different periods are plotted: T=2.0 s and T=1.0 s, differentiated by either circles or stars respectively. The results for T=1.5s had to be discarded from the analysis in Figure 8 since they did not show a coherent behaviour in comparison with the other tests. From Figure 8a &b, it is hardly possible to find any relationship between the force coefficients and the Reynolds number, as was found above for steady flow conditions. Regarding the coefficients as a function of KC number, the values obtained for the inertia coefficient C M (Figure 8d) range from 6.5 for the lowest wave period (T=1s) to 5-9 for the highest period (T=2.0 s). On other hand, C D values (Figure 8c) vary from 0.5 to 4 for the lowest period, while for the highest period, drag coefficient tends to be around 3 and 4. The transition point between low and high periods occurs around KC=14. 7
8 Figure 8. Drag coefficients (unfilled markers) and inertia coefficients (filled markers) as a function of the Reynolds number (a and b) and the Keulegan-Carpenter number (c and d), for each water level and wave periods T=2.0 s (circles) and T=1.0 s (stars). From the estimated drag coefficients using the least squares method, the drag force (F D) and inertia force (F M) components are obtained using the Morrison equation (Eq. 2). Figure 9a shows an example of the comparison between the predicted total force (F P) and its components (F D and F M) with the total force (F T) measured by the force sensor mounted under the structure of the group of corals. These results correspond to the wave conditions presented in Figure 7 (H = 0.03 m, T=1.0 s, WL = 0.13m). Figure 9. (a) Comparison of the total measured in-line force (FT) vs. the predicted force (FP) and its components (FD and FM) and (b) Relationship between FT and FM, for the group of corals (H=0.03m T=1 s, WL=0.13m). As expected, F D is in phase with the free surface elevation (η) and the flow velocity. Hence, there is also a phase difference of 90 between both force components F D and F M. This means that F D is maximum when orbital velocity is maximum, i.e. when flow acceleration is minimum (du/dt ~ 0) and, F M is maximum when acceleration is maximum, i.e. when orbital velocity is minimum (u ~ 0). Moreover, the results in Figure 9a suggest that for this particular case (H = 0.03 m, T = 1.0s, WL = 0.13m), the magnitude of the inertial force (F M) dominates over the drag component (F D). Figure 9b shows a comparison between the total measured force (F T) and the predicted inertial force (F M) for the same case of regular waves shown in Figure 9a. These results indicate that the total force for the group of corals might be described essentially (to 83%) by the inertial component (F M). Similar results were obtained for other tests with different water depths, wave heights and wave periods, although they are not presented here for reasons of brevity. 8
9 4 DISCUSSION AND CONCLUDING REMARKS Under steady flow conditions ( u = 0), where the forces of inertia are zero, there is a clear linear relationship between t the square of the velocities (u 2 ) and the forces for the studied branched coral models (Figure 4). However, in nature, this condition is only valid where the effect of the waves over structures can be considered negligible, that is, in environments were currents dominate (e.g. tidal currents). In this case, the study of the drag coefficient as a function of the water depth becomes important, since it has been demonstrated that it varies considerably with varying water levels, specifically for low Reynolds numbers (Re <1000). On the other hand, for larger Re numbers, a constant value of the drag coefficient, C D, (approximately C D = 1.2 at Re > ), was obtained. The results also showed that C D can be well represented as a function of Re by means of a power law equation, C D = are b + c (determination coefficient, R 2 >0.98). A similar behavior was found by Samuel & Monismith (2013) who studied drag forces over other branched coral species (Pocillopora verrucosa, Stylophora pistillata and Porites compressa), for which values of C D varied between 2.5 and 0.6 for <Re< , respectively. In addition, our results have shown that the effect of the arrangement of the coral colonies (single coral or group of corals) on the drag coefficient becomes relevant. This is because the projected area perpendicular to the flow (A p), is a variable that depends not only on the amount of corals but also on the distribution and separation of each colony. For this reason, we consider that the definition of the characteristic length scale (L=V s/a p), based on the ratio between the total volume of the structure V s and projected area A p, is appropriate. Under oscillatory flow conditions, previous studies have reported values of drag coefficients that deviate from the ones found in this study, which range from 1.3 to 3.7 (600<Re<1700 at a water level of 0.24 m). For example, Rosman and Hench (2011) presented a summary of C D values for different coral species, including branched corals like A. palmata, for which C D appears to be around (Lugo-Fernández et al., 1998). In addition, Storlazzi et al. (2005), reported values of C D around 0.85 for some other branched corals like Montipora capitata, Porites compressa, Porites lobata, Pocillapora meandrina based on the range of values of determined for corals and rough cylinders by Denny (1988, 1994) and Gerhart et al. (1993). However, they do not report the corresponding range of the Re number, nor the projected area or the distribution of their studied coral colony. For this reason, we believe that the deviations in C D values could possibly be due to differences in the experiments such as the number of the studied coral colonies, flow conditions, water depths or the shape of the studied species. As for the inertia coefficient, there are no reported values in the literature for the species A. palmata under field conditions or laboratory experiments. Bodies with shapes that deflect the path of the water that moves around them tend to have higher values of C M than bodies that do not deflect flows as much (Kaandorp & Kübler 2001). This behavior is reflected in the results obtained for the studied species, since A. Palmata has rigid and flat branches in each colony (perpendicular to the flow) that change the flow patterns between the coral and the surrounding area. This generates high values of C M associated to inertia forces (F M), which in this study were found to explain to a large degree the total force exerted over the structure, compared to the drag component (F D). In this way, the importance of this study lies not only in the evaluation of the drag coefficient but also in the study of the inertia coefficient, which becomes relevant under oscillatory flow conditions and which has not been sufficiently studied for branched corals such as the Acropora palmata. Although the number of trials are still not enough to allow us to propose new formulations or to conclude on the relationship between the force coefficients (C D and C M ) and the dimensionless numbers (Re, KC) under oscillatory flow conditions, they are a starting point towards the characterization of these coefficients in branched corals, in which the drag coefficient, but mostly the inertia coefficient should be taken into consideration. Furthermore, these results will be used to systematically validate a free and open source Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) model like OpenFOAM, due its capabilities to reproduce hydrodynamic processes around complex and heterogeneous bottom shapes. The validated model will then be applied to perform a parameterization study in order to extend the conditions tested in the physical wave flume. The results might serve as basis to conclude on the dependence of those coefficients with respect to wave characteristics (i.e. wave height and period), water depth, and the number and distribution of colonies of A. palmata or even other species of interest. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We would like to thank LWI for providing access to the laboratory and the institution s facilities. The work by J. D. Osorio-Cano is supported by COLCIENCIAS. Laboratory experiments were partly funded by CEMarin. Travel support to Braunschweig, Germany was provided by the program Enlazamundos-Alcaldía de Medellín. 9
10 REFERENCES Baldock, T. et al., Impact of sea-level rise and coral mortality on the wave dynamics and wave forces on barrier reefs. Marine Poll. Bull., 83(1), pp Denny, M.W., Biology and the Mechanics of the Wave-Swept Environment, Princeton, NJ: Princeton Univ. Press. Denny, M.W., Extreme Drag Forces and the Survival of Wind- and Water-Swept Organisms. J. Exp. Biol., 194(1), pp Falter, J.L., Atkinson, M.J. & Merrifield, M.A., Mass-transfer limitation of nutrient uptake by a wave-dominated reef flat community U. O. W. Centre For Management Under Regulation, ed. Limonology And Oceanography, 49(5), pp Gerhart, P., Gross, R. & Hochstein, J., Fundamentals of fluid mechanics, Menlo Park, CA: Addison-Wesley. Gourlay, M., Wave set-up on coral reefs. 2. Set-up on reefs with various profiles. Coast. Eng., 28(1-4), pp Gourlay, M., Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coast. Eng., 23(1-2), pp Gourlay, M. & Colleter, G., Wave-generated flow on coral reefs an analysis for two-dimensional horizontal reef-tops with steep faces. Coast. Eng., 52(4), pp Hardy, T. & Young, I.R., Field study of wave attenuation on an offshore coral reef. J. Geophys. Res., 101(C6), pp.14,311 14,326. Journée, J.M.J. & Massie, W., Chapter 12: Introduction in offshore hydromechanics. Kaandorp, J.A. & Kübler, J.E., The algorithmic beauty of seaweeds, sponges and corals, Springer-Verlag New York, Inc. New York, NY, USA Keulegan, G.H. & Carpenter, L.H., Forces on cylinders and plates in an oscillating fluid. J. Res. Natl Stand., 60(5), p.423. Lowe, R.J., Falter, J.L., et al., Spectral wave dissipation over a barrier reef. J. Geophys. Res., 110(C04001), pp Lowe, R.J. et al., Spectral wave flow attenuation within submerged canopies: Implications for wave energy dissipation. J. Geophys. Res., 112(C5), pp Lowe, R.J., Koseff, J.R. & Monismith, S.G., Oscillatory flow through submerged canopies: 2. Canopy mass transfer. J. Geophys. Res., 110(C10). Lugo-Fernández, A., Roberts, H., Wiseman Jr., W.J., et al., Water level and currents of tidal and infragravity periods at Tague Reef, St. Croix (USVI). Coral Reefs, 17(4), pp Lugo-Fernández, A., Roberts, H. & Suhayda, J., Wave transformations across a Caribbean fringing-barrier coral reef. Cont. Shelf. Res., 18(10), pp Lugo-Fernández, A., Roberts, H.H. & Wiseman, Jr, W.J.J., Tide Effects on wave attenuation and wave Set-up on a Caribbean coral reef. Estuar. Coast. Shelf S., 47(4), pp Madin, J.S. & Connolly, S.R., Supplementary Notes Ecological consequences of major hydrodynamic disturbances on coral reefs. Nature, 444(7118), pp Massel, S.R. & Gourlay, M., On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs. Coast. Eng., 39(1), pp Monismith, S.G., Hydrodynamics of coral reefs. Annu. Rev. Fluid Mech., 39(1), pp Morison, J.R., Johnson, J.W. & Schaaf, S.A., The force exerted by surface waves on piles. J. Petrol. Technol., 2(05), pp Nelson, R.C., Hydraulic roughness of coral reef platforms. Appl. Ocean Res., 18, pp Nunes, V. & Pawlak, G., Observations of bed roughness of a coral reef. J. Coast. Res., 24(2B), pp Paul, M. & Amos, C.L., Spatial and seasonal variation in wave attenuation over Zostera noltii. J. Geophys. Res.: Oceans, 116(8). Pawlak, G. & Maccready, P., Oscillatory flow across an irregular boundary. J. Geophys. Res., 107(C5, 3036), pp Recio, H. & Oumeraci, H., Geotextile sand container for coastal structures hydraulic stability formula and test for drag, inertia and lift coefficients. LWI Research Report, TU Braunschweig. Rosman, J.H. & Hench, J.L., A framework for understanding drag parameterizations for coral reefs. J. Geophys. Res.: Oceans, 116(June), pp Samuel, L. & Monismith, S., Drag coefficients for single coral colonies and related spherical objects. Limnology & Oceanography: Fluids & Environments, 3, pp Storlazzi, C.D. et al., A model for wave control on coral breakage and species distribution in the Hawaiian Islands. Coral Reefs, 24(1), pp Young, I.R., Wave Transformation over coral reefs. J. Geophys. Res., 94(C7), pp
Vector analysis of Morison's equation
Vector analysis of Morison's equation Zivko Vukovic Faculty of Civil Engineering, University of Zagreb, A^czcevo 26, 70000 Zagreb, E-mail: kuspa@master.grad.hr Abstract For the evaluation of drag force
More informationOFFSHORE HYDROMECHANICS OE 4620-d
Lecture OFFSHORE HYDROMECHANICS OE 4620-d MODULE 4 ch. 12 Wave Forces on Slender Cylinders ch. 13 Survival Loads on Tower Structures ch. 14 Sea Bed Boundary Effects Successive to Module 1. Morison Lab.
More informationWave Hydro Dynamics Prof. V. Sundar Department of Ocean Engineering Indian Institute of Technology, Madras
Wave Hydro Dynamics Prof. V. Sundar Department of Ocean Engineering Indian Institute of Technology, Madras Module No. #05 Wave Loads on Structures Lecture No. #03 Wave Loads on Structures and Problems
More informationINVESTIGATION OF SCOUR DEVELOPMENT UNDERNEATH OFFSHORE GRAVITY FOUNDATIONS DURING LOWERING
INVESTIGATION OF SCOUR DEVELOPMENT UNDERNEATH OFFSHORE GRAVITY FOUNDATIONS DURING LOWERING NANNINA HORSTMANN (1), MATTHIAS KUDELLA (2), STEFAN SCHIMMELS (3) & HOCINE OUMERACI (4) (1) Dipl.-Ing., Forschungszentrum
More informationMasteller et al. GSA DATA REPOSITORY Supplementary Information. Kelp Model
GSA DATA REPOSITORY 2015190 Masteller et al. Supplementary Information Kelp Model Initation of motion of a grain begins when the driving forces acting on that grain, F driving, are equal to the resisting
More informationWAVE FORCES ON GROUPS OF SLENDER CYLINDERS IN COMPARISON TO AN ISOLATED CYLINDER DUE TO NON BREAKING WAVES
WVE FORCES ON GROUPS OF SLENDER CYLINDERS IN COMPRISON TO N ISOLTED CYLINDER DUE TO NON BREKING WVES rndt Hildebrandt, Uwe Sparboom 2, Hocine Oumeraci 3 This paper presents results of large scale experiments
More informationSpectral wave flow attenuation within submerged canopies: Implications for wave energy dissipation
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 112,, doi:10.1029/2006jc003605, 2007 Spectral wave flow attenuation within submerged canopies: Implications for wave energy dissipation Ryan J. Lowe, 1 James L. Falter,
More informationAvailable online at Procedia Engineering 2 (2010) Procedia Engineering 4 (2010) ISAB-2010.
Available online at www.sciencedirect.com Procedia Engineering (010) 000 000 Procedia Engineering 4 (010) 99 105 ISAB-010 Procedia Engineering www.elsevier.com/locate/procedia www.elsevier.com/locate/procedia
More informationCOMBINED WAVE-CURRENT FORCES ON HORIZONTAL CYLINDERS
COMBINED WAVE-CURRENT FORCES ON HORIZONTAL CYLINDERS by B.D. Chandler 1 and J.B. Hinwood 2 ABSTRACT Some early results are reported from an investigation of the forces exerted on horizontal cylinders by
More informationPARAMETRIC WAVE-BREAKING ON STEEP REEFS
PARAMETRIC WAVE-BREAKING ON STEEP REEFS Shih-Feng Su, Alex Sheremet and Jane McKee Smith A numerical model based on a nonlinear mild-slope equation, and modified to account for wave dissipation due to
More informationStudent name: This is a closed book examination. You are allowed 1 sheet of 8.5 x 11 paper with notes.
13.012 Marine Hydrodynamics for Ocean Engineers Fall 2004 Quiz #2 Student name: This is a closed book examination. You are allowed 1 sheet of 8.5 x 11 paper with notes. For the problems in Section A, fill
More informationMECHANICS OF SEDIMENT SUSPENSION AND TRANSPORT WITHIN A FRINGING REEF
1 MECHANICS OF SEDIMENT SUSPENSION AND TRANSPORT WITHIN A FRINGING REEF ANDREW W.M. POMEROY 1, RYAN J. LOWE 2, MARCO GHISALBERTI 3, CURT D. STORLAZZI 4, MICHAEL CUTTLER 5 and GRAHAM SYMONDS 6 1. The UWA
More informationHydromechanics: Course Summary
Hydromechanics: Course Summary Hydromechanics VVR090 Material Included; French: Chapters to 9 and 4 + Sample problems Vennard & Street: Chapters 8 + 3, and (part of it) Roberson & Crowe: Chapter Collection
More informationSimulation of tsunamiinduced boundary layers and scour around monopiles
Simulation of tsunamiinduced boundary layers and scour around monopiles David R. Fuhrman Isaac A. Williams Bjarke Eltard Larsen Cuneyt Baykal B. Mutlu Sumer Boundary layer model Fuhrman, D.R., Schløer,
More informationAnnual transport rates at two locations on the fore-slope.
Sediment Transport by Currents Fore-slope Sediment transport rates and sediment concentrations were computed from the hydrodynamic model runs as well as from direct measurements of current velocities at
More information2. Governing Equations
1. Introduction Submarine pipeline, unlike any other hydraulic structures that are vertically erected, are laid horizontally on the bed of oceans and rivers. Hence, the design of submarine pipelines associated
More informationUNIT II CONVECTION HEAT TRANSFER
UNIT II CONVECTION HEAT TRANSFER Convection is the mode of heat transfer between a surface and a fluid moving over it. The energy transfer in convection is predominately due to the bulk motion of the fluid
More information/01/04: Morrison s Equation SPRING 2004 A. H. TECHET
3.4 04/0/04: orrison s Equation SPRING 004 A.. TECET. General form of orrison s Equation Flow past a circular cylinder is a canonical problem in ocean engineering. For a purely inviscid, steady flow we
More informationGeol 117 Lecture 18 Beaches & Coastlines. I. Types of Coastlines A. Definition:
I. Types of Coastlines A. Definition: 1. Shore = narrow zone where ocean meets land (e.g. beach) 2. Coast is a broad area where both ocean and land processes act a. Includes onshore marshes, dunes, sea
More informationThe Effect of Bedform-induced Spatial Acceleration on Turbulence and Sediment Transport
The Effect of Bedform-induced Spatial Acceleration on Turbulence and Sediment Transport S. McLean (1) (1) Mechanical and Environmental Engineering Dept., University of California, Santa Barbara, CA 93106,
More informationUsing IKONOS Images to Evaluate Coral Reefs in Low versus High Sedimentation Environments
Using IKONOS Images to Evaluate Coral Reefs in Low versus High Sedimentation Environments David N. Cuevas Miranda Department of Marine Sciences, University of Puerto Rico at Mayagüez P.O. Box 908 Lajas,
More informationHydrodynamics for Ocean Engineers Prof. A.H. Techet Fall 2004
13.01 ydrodynamics for Ocean Engineers Prof. A.. Techet Fall 004 Morrison s Equation 1. General form of Morrison s Equation Flow past a circular cylinder is a canonical problem in ocean engineering. For
More informationTransactions on Modelling and Simulation vol 16, 1997 WIT Press, ISSN X
Numerical and experimental investigation of oscillating flow around a circular cylinder P. Anagnostopoulos*, G. Iliadis* & S. Kuhtz^ * University of Thessaloniki, Department of Civil Engineering, Thessaloniki
More informationGLY Coastal Geomorphology Notes
GLY 4734 - Coastal Geomorphology Notes Dr. Peter N. Adams Spring 2011 2 Coastal Classification In this lecture, we discuss some successful classification schemes of the coastal landscape, and pay particular
More informationAvailable online at Eng. Math. Lett. 2014, 2014:17 ISSN: WAVE ATTENUATION OVER A SUBMERGED POROUS MEDIA I.
Available online at http://scik.org Eng. Math. Lett. 04, 04:7 ISSN: 049-9337 WAVE ATTENUATION OVER A SUBMERGED POROUS MEDIA I. MAGDALENA Industrial and Financial Mathematics Research Group, Faculty of
More informationStructural Dynamics of Offshore Wind Turbines subject to Extreme Wave Loading
Structural Dynamics of Offshore Wind Turbines subject to Extreme Wave Loading N ROGERS Border Wind Limited, Hexham, Northumberland SYNOPSIS With interest increasing in the installation of wind turbines
More informationSediment Transport at Density Fronts in Shallow Water: a Continuation of N
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Sediment Transport at Density Fronts in Shallow Water: a Continuation of N00014-08-1-0846 David K. Ralston Applied Ocean
More information1 Shoreline Landforms 2. 2 Emergent v. Submergent 2. 3 Wavecutting 3. 4 Planview 4. 5 Marine Terraces 5. 6 California 7. 7 Tombolos, Sea Stacks 8
Shorelines November 9, 2008 Contents 1 Shoreline Landforms 2 2 Emergent v. Submergent 2 3 Wavecutting 3 4 Planview 4 5 Marine Terraces 5 6 California 7 7 Tombolos, Sea Stacks 8 8 Active Processes 9 9 Emergence
More information3D NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS ON DRAG RESISTANCE IN VEGETATED FLOWS
3D NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS ON DRAG RESISTANCE IN VEGETATED FLOWS Dimitris Souliotis (), Panagiotis Prinos () () Hydraulics Laboratory, Department of Civil Engineering, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki,
More informationEffect of Sacrificial Anodes and Marine Growth on Hydrodynamic Coefficients of Rigid Cylinders
Proceedings of the Twenty-fifth (215) International Ocean and Polar Engineering Conference Kona, Big Island, Hawaii, USA, June 21-26, 215 Copyright 215 by the International Society of Offshore and Polar
More information13.42 LECTURE 13: FLUID FORCES ON BODIES. Using a two dimensional cylinder within a two-dimensional flow we can demonstrate some of the principles
13.42 LECTURE 13: FLUID FORCES ON BODIES SPRING 2003 c A. H. TECHET & M.S. TRIANTAFYLLOU 1. Morrison s Equation Using a two dimensional cylinder within a two-dimensional flow we can demonstrate some of
More informationParametric equations for Shields parameter and wave orbital velocity in combined current and irregular waves
Parametric equations for Shields parameter and wave orbital velocity in combined current and irregular waves A. Roulund DONG Energy A/S, Nesa Allé 1, 2820 Gentofte, Denmark J. Sutherland & D. Todd HR Wallingford
More informationPredictability of Scour at Large Piles due to Waves and Currents
Technical University Braunschweig Faculty of Civil Engineering Leichtweiss Institute for Hydraulic Engineering Section of Hydromechanics and Coastal Engineering Delft University of Technology Faculty of
More informationThe Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 The Coast: es and Shoreline Processes Trujillo & Thurman, Chapter 10 Oceanography 101 Chapter Objectives Recognize the various landforms characteristic of beaches and coastal regions.
More informationThe Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Trujillo & Thurman, Chapter 10
The Coast: es and Shoreline Processes Trujillo & Thurman, Chapter 10 Oceanography 101 Chapter Objectives Recognize the various landforms characteristic of beaches and coastal regions. Identify seasonal
More informationOCEANOGRAPHY CURRICULUM. Unit 1: Introduction to Oceanography
Chariho Regional School District - Science Curriculum September, 2016 OCEANOGRAPHY CURRICULUM Unit 1: Introduction to Oceanography OVERVIEW Summary In this unit students will be introduced to the field
More informationThe Use of Geographic Information Systems to Assess Change in Salt Marsh Ecosystems Under Rising Sea Level Scenarios.
The Use of Geographic Information Systems to Assess Change in Salt Marsh Ecosystems Under Rising Sea Level Scenarios Robert Hancock The ecological challenges presented by global climate change are vast,
More informationMooring Model for Barge Tows in Lock Chamber
Mooring Model for Barge Tows in Lock Chamber by Richard L. Stockstill BACKGROUND: Extensive research has been conducted in the area of modeling mooring systems in sea environments where the forcing function
More informationOscillatory flow through submerged canopies: 1. Velocity structure
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 110,, doi:10.1029/2004jc002788, 2005 Oscillatory flow through submerged canopies: 1. Velocity structure Ryan J. Lowe, Jeffrey R. Koseff, and Stephen G. Monismith Environmental
More informationInvestigation of the Effect of the Circular Stands Diameters of Marine Structures and the Distances between Them on Wave Run-up and Force
Marine Science 16, 6(1): 11-15 DOI: 1.593/j.ms.1661. Investigation of the Effect of the Circular Stands Diameters of Marine Structures and the Distances between Them on Wave Run-up and Force Mohammad Ghatarband
More informationAlongshore Momentum Balance: Currents
Chapter 16 Alongshore Momentum Balance: Currents Two assumptions are necessary to get a simple equation for v. The first is that the flow is steady so that time derivatives can be neglected. Second, assume
More informationOPTIMAL OPERATION OF A TIDAL TURBINE. C. Schmitz, P.F. Pelz
th International Seminar on Hydropower Plants: Flexible Operation of Hydropower Plants in the Energy System Vienna, th th November 26 Session: Design Requirements and optimization OPTIMAL OPERATION OF
More informationFigure 3: Problem 7. (a) 0.9 m (b) 1.8 m (c) 2.7 m (d) 3.6 m
1. For the manometer shown in figure 1, if the absolute pressure at point A is 1.013 10 5 Pa, the absolute pressure at point B is (ρ water =10 3 kg/m 3, ρ Hg =13.56 10 3 kg/m 3, ρ oil = 800kg/m 3 ): (a)
More informationSand Ripple Dynamics on the Inner Shelf
Sand Ripple Dynamics on the Inner Shelf Donald N. Slinn Department of Civil and Coastal Engineering, University of Florida Gainesville, FL 32611-6590, Phone: (352) 392-9537 x 1431 Fax: (352) 392-3466 E-mail:
More informationv t + fu = 1 p y w t = 1 p z g u x + v y + w
1 For each of the waves that we will be talking about we need to know the governing equators for the waves. The linear equations of motion are used for many types of waves, ignoring the advective terms,
More informationHull-tether-riser dynamics of deep water tension leg platforms
Fluid Structure Interaction V 15 Hull-tether-riser dynamics of deep water tension leg platforms R. Jayalekshmi 1, R. Sundaravadivelu & V. G. Idichandy 1 Department of Civil Engineering, NSS College of
More informationBED MOTION UNDER WAVES: PLUG AND SHEET FLOW OBSERVATIONS. Abstract
BED MOTION UNDER WAVES: PLUG AND SHEET FLOW OBSERVATIONS Hervé Michallet 1, Eric Barthélemy 1, Arnout Lammens 1, Giulia Marin 1 and Gérard Vaudelin 1 Abstract Experiments were designed to address the role
More informationOcean and Coastal Processes. Ocean Basins. Chapter 20. Ocean Basins and Plates. Ocean Terms. Sea Arch Bay-mouth Bar Spit Tombolo Coast.
Chapter 20 Ocean Basins and Plates Ocean and Coastal Processes Tide Wave Height Length Period Base Refraction Tsunami Beach Sea stack Ocean Terms Sea Arch Bay-mouth Bar Spit Tombolo Coast Emergent Submergent
More informationEXAMPLE SHEET FOR TOPIC 3 AUTUMN 2013
EXAMPLE SHEET FOR TOPIC ATMN 01 Q1. se dimensional analysis to investigate how the capillary rise h of a liquid in a tube varies with tube diameter d, gravity g, fluid density ρ, surface tension σ and
More informationGRAIN-SIZE SORTING IN THE SWASH ZONE ON UNEQUILIBRIUM BEACHES AT THE TIMESCALE OF INDIVIDUAL WAVES
GRAIN-SIZE SORTING IN THE SWASH ZONE ON UNEQUILIBRIUM BEACHES AT THE TIMESCALE OF INDIVIDUAL WAVES Tetauya Kakinoki 1, Gozo Tsujimoto 1 and Kohji Uno 1 The purpose of this study is to investigate sediment
More informationDirect Numerical Simulations on the Uniform In-plane Flow around an Oscillating Circular Disk
Proceedings of the Twenty-third (2013) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Anchorage, Alaska, USA, June 30 July 5, 2013 Copyright 2013 by the International Society of Offshore and Polar Engineers
More informationAbstract: Complex responses observed in an experimental, nonlinear, moored structural
AN INDEPENDENT-FLOW-FIELD MODEL FOR A SDOF NONLINEAR STRUCTURAL SYSTEM, PART II: ANALYSIS OF COMPLEX RESPONSES Huan Lin e-mail: linh@engr.orst.edu Solomon C.S. Yim e-mail: solomon.yim@oregonstate.edu Ocean
More informationFrom seafloor geomorphology to predictive habitat mapping: progress in applications of biophysical data to ocean management.
From seafloor geomorphology to predictive habitat mapping: progress in applications of biophysical data to ocean management. Peter T. Harris Geoscience Australia, Canberra ACT, Australia Currently seconded
More informationForecast of Nearshore Wave Parameters Using MIKE-21 Spectral Wave Model
Forecast of Nearshore Wave Parameters Using MIKE-21 Spectral Wave Model Felix Jose 1 and Gregory W. Stone 2 1 Coastal Studies Institute, Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge, LA 70803 2 Coastal Studies
More informationCoral reef benthic regimes exhibit non-linear threshold responses to natural physical drivers
The following supplement accompanies the article Coral reef benthic regimes exhibit non-linear threshold responses to natural physical drivers Jamison M. Gove*, Gareth J. Williams, Margaret A. McManus,
More informationSea-level Rise on Cape Cod: How Vulnerable Are We? Rob Thieler U.S. Geological Survey Woods Hole, MA
Sea-level Rise on Cape Cod: How Vulnerable Are We? Rob Thieler U.S. Geological Survey Woods Hole, MA Outline Sea-level and coastal processes Past sea-level change Predictions for the future Coastal responses
More informationThe Performance of Heaving Bodies
The Performance of Heaving Bodies P. Persad 1 & The Caribbean region has been identified as a favourable A. Singh 2 area for the exploitation of wave energy. A cost effective approach to the development
More informationQuantifying effects of oil on coastal dune vegetation. Thomas Miller and Elise Gornish Biological Science, Florida State University
Quantifying effects of oil on coastal dune vegetation Thomas Miller and Elise Gornish Biological Science, Florida State University Natural History of Barrier Islands in the Northern Gulf Make up ~70% of
More informationIrregular Wave Forces on Monopile Foundations. Effect af Full Nonlinearity and Bed Slope
Downloaded from orbit.dtu.dk on: Dec 04, 2017 Irregular Wave Forces on Monopile Foundations. Effect af Full Nonlinearity and Bed Slope Schløer, Signe; Bredmose, Henrik; Bingham, Harry B. Published in:
More informationCalculating Storm Surge and Other Coastal Hazards Using Geoclaw
Calculating Storm Surge and Other Coastal Hazards Using Geoclaw Kyle T. Mandli Department of Applied Mathematics University of Washington Seattle, WA, USA Modeling and Computations of Shallow-Water Coastal
More information4. In areas where tectonic plates collide, the seafloor has deep. 5. In areas where tectonic plates separate, the seafloor has mid- ocean
Name Date Hour Table Chapter 14 Lesson One- General Directions: Use the word bank below to complete each statement. NOT all terms are used. abyssal plains brackish water condensation energy freshwater
More informationVERTICAL SCALES AND SHEAR STRESSES IN WAVE BOUNDARY LAYERS OVER MOVABLE BEDS. Peter Nielsen & Paul A Guard
VERTICAL SCALES AND SHEAR STRESSES IN WAVE BOUNDARY LAYERS OVER MOVABLE BEDS. Peter Nielsen & Paul A Guard ABSTRACT Unified scaling rules are provided for smooth and rough wave boundary layers. It is shown
More informationOpenFOAM simulations of irregular waves and free surface effects around a monopile offshore wind turbine
OpenFOAM simulations of irregular waves and free surface effects around a monopile offshore wind turbine Ariel J. Edesess 1 4 th Year PhD Candidate Supervisors: Dr. Denis Kelliher 1, Dr. Gareth Thomas
More informationSurge motion of an ice floe in waves: comparison of theoretical and experimental models
Journal of Glaciology, Vol., No., Surge motion of an ice floe in waves: comparison of theoretical and experimental models Michael H. MEYLAN, Lucas J. YIEW, Luke G. BENNETTS, Benjamin J. FRENCH, 3 Giles
More informationWater Particle Velocities under Shoaling and Breaking Waves
UNIVERSITEIT TWENTE & UNIVERSITY OF ABERDEEN Water Particle Velocities under Shoaling and Breaking Waves Bachelor Thesis Hidde van den Broek 9-7-2015 0 Foreword I have written this thesis to conclude my
More informationSmall Scale Field Experiment on Breaking Wave Pressure on Vertical Breakwaters
Open Journal of Marine Science, 2015, 5, 412-421 Published Online October 2015 in SciRes. http://www.scirp.org/journal/ojms http://dx.doi.org/10.4236/ojms.2015.54033 Small Scale Field Experiment on Breaking
More informationThomas Pierro, Donald Slinn, Kraig Winters
Thomas Pierro, Donald Slinn, Kraig Winters Department of Ocean Engineering, Florida Atlantic University, Boca Raton, Florida Applied Physics Laboratory, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington Supported
More informationthe rate of change of velocity with time a graphical representation of the distribution of ages within a population
Glossary acceleration accuracy age-structure diagram alternative hypothesis angular acceleration angular momentum best-fit line buoyant force capacitor carrying capacity the rate of change of velocity
More informationEXPERIMENTS OF CLOSED-LOOP FLOW CONTROL FOR LAMINAR BOUNDARY LAYERS
Fourth International Symposium on Physics of Fluids (ISPF4) International Journal of Modern Physics: Conference Series Vol. 19 (212) 242 249 World Scientific Publishing Company DOI: 1.1142/S211945128811
More informationNumerical Simulation of Elongated Fibres in Horizontal Channel Flow
Martin-Luther-Universität Halle-Wittenberg Mechanische Verfahrenstechnik 4th Workshop on Two-Phase Flow Predictions Halle, 7-0 September 05 Numerical Simulation of Elongated Fibres in Horizontal Channel
More informationFriction Factors and Drag Coefficients
Levicky 1 Friction Factors and Drag Coefficients Several equations that we have seen have included terms to represent dissipation of energy due to the viscous nature of fluid flow. For example, in the
More informationV. MODELING, SIMILARITY, AND DIMENSIONAL ANALYSIS To this point, we have concentrated on analytical methods of solution for fluids problems.
V. MODELING, SIMILARITY, AND DIMENSIONAL ANALYSIS To this point, we have concentrated on analytical methods of solution for fluids problems. However, analytical methods are not always satisfactory due
More informationOptics, Acoustics and Stress in Situ (OASIS)
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Optics, Acoustics and Stress in Situ (OASIS) John H. Trowbridge 1 and Peter Traykovski 2 Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
More informationANALYSIS OF CURRENT CLOSE TO THE SURFACE OF NET STRUCTURES Mathias Paschen, University of Rostock, Germany
ANALYSIS OF CURRENT CLOSE TO THE SURFACE OF NET STRUCTURES Mathias Paschen, University of Rostock, Germany mathias.paschen@uni-rostock.de Abstract The development of the theory of (pelagic) trawls is stagnating
More informationDUNE EROSION NEAR SEA WALLS: MODEL-DATA COMPARISON
DUNE EROSION NEAR SEA WALLS: MODEL-DATA COMPARISON Pieter van Geer 1, Bram de Vries 2, Ap van Dongeren 1 and Jaap van Thiel de Vries 1,2 This paper describes the validation of the dune erosion model XBeach
More informationThe Marine Environment
The Marine Environment SECTION 16.1 Shoreline Features In your textbook, read about erosional landforms, beaches, estuaries, longshore currents, and rip currents. For each statement below, write or. 1.
More informationSection 2.1 Ocean Basins. - Has helped determine where ocean basins are located. - Tectonic plates move changing the position of the continents.
Science 8 Unit 1: Water Systems on Earth Chapter 2: Oceans Control the Water Cycle Section 2.1 Ocean Basins Oceans are important because: 1. Primary water source for the water cycle 2. Control weather
More informationCambridge International Examinations Cambridge International Advanced Subsidiary and Advanced Level
Cambridge International Examinations Cambridge International Advanced Subsidiary and Advanced Level *0627433796* MARINE SCIENCE 9693/01 Paper 1 AS Structured Questions October/November 2016 1 hour 30 minutes
More informationFE Fluids Review March 23, 2012 Steve Burian (Civil & Environmental Engineering)
Topic: Fluid Properties 1. If 6 m 3 of oil weighs 47 kn, calculate its specific weight, density, and specific gravity. 2. 10.0 L of an incompressible liquid exert a force of 20 N at the earth s surface.
More informationSpectral Energy Balance of Breaking Waves within the Surf Zone*
2723 Spectral Energy Balance of Breaking Waves within the Surf Zone* T. H. C. HERBERS AND N. R. RUSSNOGLE Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, California STEVE ELGAR Applied
More informationDYNAMIC CHARACTERISTICS OF OFFSHORE TENSION LEG PLATFORMS UNDER HYDRODYNAMIC FORCES
International Journal of Civil Engineering (IJCE) ISSN(P): 2278-9987; ISSN(E): 2278-9995 Vol. 3, Issue 1, Jan 214, 7-16 IASET DYNAMIC CHARACTERISTICS OF OFFSHORE TENSION LEG PLATFORMS UNDER HYDRODYNAMIC
More informationOscillatory flow through submerged canopies: 2. Canopy mass transfer
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 110,, doi:10.1029/2004jc002789, 2005 Oscillatory flow through submerged canopies: 2. Canopy mass transfer Ryan J. Lowe, Jeffrey R. Koseff, and Stephen G. Monismith
More informationROLE OF THE VERTICAL PRESSURE GRADIENT IN WAVE BOUNDARY LAYERS
ROLE OF THE VERTICAL PRESSURE GRADIENT IN WAVE BOUNDARY LAYERS Karsten Lindegård Jensen 1, B. Mutlu Sumer 1, Giovanna Vittori 2 and Paolo Blondeaux 2 The pressure field in an oscillatory boundary layer
More informationν δ - 1 -
ν δ - 1 - δ ν ν δ ν ν - 2 - ρ δ ρ θ θ θ δ τ ρ θ δ δ θ δ δ δ δ τ μ δ μ δ ν δ δ δ - 3 - τ ρ δ ρ δ ρ δ δ δ δ δ δ δ δ δ δ δ - 4 - ρ μ ρ μ ρ ρ μ μ ρ - 5 - ρ τ μ τ μ ρ δ δ δ - 6 - τ ρ μ τ ρ μ ρ δ θ θ δ θ - 7
More informationDynamics of the Ems Estuary
Dynamics of the Ems Estuary Physics of coastal systems Jerker Menninga 0439738 Utrecht University Institute for Marine and Atmospheric research Utrecht Lecturer: Prof. dr. H.E. de Swart Abstract During
More informationLecture-4. Flow Past Immersed Bodies
Lecture-4 Flow Past Immersed Bodies Learning objectives After completing this lecture, you should be able to: Identify and discuss the features of external flow Explain the fundamental characteristics
More informationWhat we know about Fluid Mechanics. What we know about Fluid Mechanics
What we know about Fluid Mechanics 1. Survey says. 3. Image from: www.axs.com 4. 5. 6. 1 What we know about Fluid Mechanics 1. MEB (single input, single output, steady, incompressible, no rxn, no phase
More informationCEE 3310 External Flows (Boundary Layers & Drag, Nov. 12, Re 0.5 x x 1/2. Re 1/2
CEE 3310 External Flows (Boundary Layers & Drag, Nov. 12, 2018 155 7.11 Review Momentum integral equation τ w = ρu 2 dθ dx Von Kármán assumed and found and δ x = 5.5 Rex 0.5 u(x, y) U = 2y δ y2 δ 2 δ =
More informationPaul de Groot. The thesis committee consists of: Prof. dr. ir. M.J.F. Stive Prof. dr. ir. L.C. Van Rijn Ir. S.G.J. Aarninkhof Ir. G.
Preface This thesis is the result of a study, investigating the swash zone sediment transport processes. The first part of the thesis work has taken place on the University of Queensland, in Brisbane,
More informationProceedings of the ASME nd International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering OMAE2013 June 9-14, 2013, Nantes, France
Proceedings of the ASME 2013 32nd International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering OMAE2013 June 9-14, 2013, Nantes, France OMAE2013-11405 SECOND-ORDER RANDOM WAVE KINEMATICS AND RESULTING
More informationG3-Giornate Giovani GNRAC
Quartiere Fieristico di ON THE USE OF LIGHTWEIGHT MATERIALS IN SMALL SCALE MOBILE-BED COASTAL PHYSICAL MODELS Valentina Petruzzelli OUTLINE Objectives Introduction Methods Data analysis LIC/PoliBa tests
More informationImportance of Understanding Coastal Landforms
Importance of Understanding Coastal Landforms Costa Concordia Shipwreck, Isola del Giglio, Italy Depositional Coastal Landforms Can interpret landforms in light of geomorphic processes, both terrestrial
More informationSCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY
Pertanika J. Sci. & Technol. 25 (3): 1009-1018 (2017) SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY Journal homepage: http://www.pertanika.upm.edu.my/ Estimation and Validation of Nearshore Current at the Coast of Carey Island,
More informationOCEAN ZONES. 1. Intertidal Zone 2. Near-Shore Zone 3. Open-Ocean Zone
OCEAN ZONES 1. Intertidal Zone 2. Near-Shore Zone 3. Open-Ocean Zone Where the Ocean Meets the Land (Place) Intertidal Zone The intertidal zone is the area between the high- and low-tide lines. At high
More informationOCEAN ZONES. 1. Intertidal Zone 2. Near-Shore Zone 3. Open-Ocean Zone
OCEAN ZONES 1. Intertidal Zone 2. Near-Shore Zone 3. Open-Ocean Zone Where the Ocean Meets the Land (Place) Intertidal Zone The intertidal zone is the area between the high- and low-tide lines. At high
More informationGENERATING AND ABSORBING BOUNDARY CONDITIONS FOR COMBINED WAVE-CURRENT SIMULATIONS
Paper ID: 53, Page 1 GENERATING AND ABSORBING BOUNDARY CONDITIONS FOR COMBINED WAVE-CURRENT SIMULATIONS Xing Chang 1 *, Ido Akkerman 1, Rene H.M. Huijsmans 1, Arthur E.P. Veldman 1 Delft University of
More informationDepartment of Energy Sciences, LTH
Department of Energy Sciences, LTH MMV11 Fluid Mechanics LABORATION 1 Flow Around Bodies OBJECTIVES (1) To understand how body shape and surface finish influence the flow-related forces () To understand
More informationChapter 7: External Forced Convection. Dr Ali Jawarneh Department of Mechanical Engineering Hashemite University
Chapter 7: External Forced Convection Dr Ali Jawarneh Department of Mechanical Engineering Hashemite University Objectives When you finish studying this chapter, you should be able to: Distinguish between
More informationModule 12: Oceanography Topic 6 Content: Oceans and Climate Change Notes
Introduction Module 12: Oceanography With water covering a large portion of the planet, it is very important to monitor the consequences of global warming in the oceans. Click NEXT to learn about the potential
More informationMarine Spatial Planning: A Tool for Implementing Ecosystem-Based Management
Marine Spatial Planning: A Tool for Implementing Ecosystem-Based Management Steven Murawski, Ph.D., Ecosystem Goal Team Lead National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration NOAA November 16, 2009 1 To
More information