LANGUISHING CRAFT MENDH KI CHAPPAI Sanganer, Rajasthan

Sponsored by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles Government of India Research Study and Documentation by S-4 Khirki Extn, New Delhi - 110 017 Tel: +91-11-29545015 Email: mail@craftrevival.org Web Encyclo Journal: www.craftrevival.org LANGUISHING CRAFT MENDH KI CHAPPAI Sanganer, Rajasthan LANGUISHING CRAFT MENDH KI CHAPPAI Sponsored by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles Government of India Sanganer, Rajasthan

LANGUISHING CRAFT MENDH KI CHAPPAI Sanganer, Rajasthan Sponsored by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles Government of India Research Study and Documentation by

Acknowledgement C at e i al T ust tha ks the Oi e of the De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats, Mi ist of Te iles, Go e e t of I dia, fo thei suppo t a d spo so ship of this e i po ta t su je t. We a k o ledge ith tha ks Sh i S.S. Gupta, De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats fo his help a d suppo t. Tha ks to S t Alka A o a, Addiio al De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats fo he o sta t suppo t. Ou tha ks to Sh i ohit Bha d aj, Di e to, Oi e of the De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats Tha ks a e also due to the oi e a d staf of Oi e of the De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats

Contents A out the Pla e A out the P i i g Co u it A out Me d ki Chappai / Bees a esist Ha d Blo k P i i g P odu t a d Desig T adiio al P odu ts, T adiio al Clie ts A out the P i te s of Me dh Desig Vo a ula of T adiio Colou Palete of T adiio Base Te ile Fa i The aiso de Et e of Me dh ki Chappai Ha d Blo ks of the P i te s T ade Othe a Mate ials Tools used i the P i i g P o ess Tools fo D ei g P o ess a d Te h i ue P odu io Details e o e daio s A isa Co ta t List esea h Methodolog 07 14 18 38 49 55 57 60 66 71 80 87 88 103 106 108 108

ajastha 6 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

About the place Sanganer in Jaipur District Sa ga e, o e a s all to situated kilo et es a a f o Jaipu, is o i disi guisha le f o the sp a li g sp ead of the it hi h has ea hed out to i lude Sa ga e i to its outl i g a ea. The to of Sa ga e oasts of its e o ed ha d ade pape u its a d te ile p i i g i dust ies oth lo k a d s ee p i i g. T adiio all the to has ee ho e to chippa o u it of p i te s a d d e s, the o d chippa lite a ea i g the pe so ho p i ts, ith the o u iies ho e e e gaged i p i i g o loth alled chippas. I the past de ades the lo k p i i g i dust has had to fa e a t e e dous o slaught f o s ee p i i g p o esses, ot o l ha e these p o esses ut i to the a ket fo lo k p i ts, the ha e addiio all used the fa ed lo k p i t pate s of Sa ga e a d epli ated the o to s ee p i i g p odu io. Toda oth ethods of p i i g o-e ist i the la es a d alle s of Sa ga e as the de a d fo the oifs, olou s a d pate s of Sa ga e i te iles ha e i eased i the e e t ea s. The to is a ustli g e po t hu fo p i ted fa i. Ea lie the p i i g as do e ai l o dife e t a ieies of oto, depe di g o the lie tele ut ith ad e t of a pletho a of fa i s, the p i i g has ee e pe i e ted o al ost e e te ile. Sa ga e i ha d lo k p i i g ee egiste ed u de the Geog aphi I di aio s A t i Ma h, this egist is fo the fa ed Sa ga e i p i t, the deli ate ui s i uliple olou s that ade Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 7

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this luste e o ed. The p i i g setle e t as ea the a ks of i e Sa as ai hi h is also alled as D a a ai. It is said that the ate s of this i e had su h spe ial ualiies that it ought e t a ight ess i the olou s, thus the olou s p odu ed i the Sa ga e egio had e elle t ight ess. Sadl the i e tu ed i to a s all a al a d soo the ate le els e t do a d the i e has o d ied up. The ate suppl is th ough oto, pu ps a d the ate ta ks. The to is also fa ous fo its Jai te ples. The ost eauiful te ple i Sa ga e is the a ie t Sh i Diga e Jai te ple. The te ple has i e a i gs si ila to those of the ag ii e t Dil a a te ples of Mou t A u. Built i a ious phases ith sk -high shikha as spi es, the te ple ep ese ts a old st le of a hite tu e. The last phase as p o a l uilt i the th e tu AD. The eauiful ij- a di i e te ple is a sto e sh i e ith th ee pi a les. At the e t e lies the idol of Pa sh a ath ith se e se pe t hoods. All a ou d it a e a i gs of lotuses a d eepe s, a d elepha ts pou i g ate f o pit he s held i thei t u ks. But the ai idol is that of Adi ath, i stalled i the sh i e ehi d this. Sa ga e is a ell esta lished to ith the fa ilit of a a k, a d s hools. The oads e te d to the i te io of the to a d the a e ell ai tai ed. The e is a Cali o p i te s o-ope ai e hi h as de eloped the p i te s of Sa ga e. This o-ope ai e is ot e a i e o. Sa ga e is a o a o ld e o ed p i i g to hi h has u e s f o all o e the o ld. The S ai Ma Si gh S asth a Se a is the hospital o Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 9

SMS oad i Jaipu it hi h ate s to the health fa iliies fo the atspe so. It is the iggest go e e t u health a e e t e i the Jaipu it. The hospital is o e o o l k o as SMS hospital. The e a e othe p i ate a d state u hospitals i Jaipu a d i Sa ga e. Due to lose p o i it to the Jaipu it the e is o u h of fa iliies elated to health, t a spo taio et. The e a e a s hools i the Sa ga e to. All the s hools a e o the o-edu aio pate a d E glish ediu edu aio. The e is a Go e e t o e Pol te h i College i Sa ga e esta lished i the go e e t of ajastha. The Pol te h i ai s at p o idi g te h i al edu aio to o e a d i p o e thei e t ep e eu ial skills. Ch. Cha a Si gh Naio al I situte of Ag i ultu al Ma kei g NIAM a d I dia I situte of Health Ma age e t esea h IIHM, a e t o p e ie go t. i situtes lo ated i Sa ga e. The li ate is ode ate to hot, ith all fou seaso s. The ights a e old du i g i te s. The egio has peak i e of ea si e O to e ill Ma h as the eddi g seaso sta ts. The a i u tou ists also isit ajastha du i g the i te s. The i te seaso see s to e the est i e fo p i i g as ell as the heat of the su p odu es e t a ight olou s du i g i te s. Du i g o soo the p odu io is elai el lo as the oistu e does ot allo the fa i to d. Jaipu is the ai to lo ated at half hou d i e. The o e i it is a aila le oad th ough us, auto- iksha s a d p i ate ta is. The uses a d autos a e a aila le th oughout the da i e. The e a e State u a d p i ate uses u i g to a d i side Sa ga e. The e is a ail a staio i Sa ga e to ut Jaipu ju io 10 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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is a ajo ail a staio ea Sa ga e. Ga dhi aga ail a staio is a othe staio that has o e i it ith Sa ga e to. The Jaipu ai po t is lo ated i Sa ga e. Due to su h lose p o i it of ai po t, Sa ga e to also has a a o odaio s f o udget to lu u ious hotels. The e is a ig fo eig a ket of Sa ga e i ha d lo k p i ted te iles. A lot of u e s f o fo eig ou t ies isit the Sa ga e to. The li e eithe i Jaipu it o Sa ga e. Cali o p i te s o-ope ai e as esta lished the p i te s of Sa ga e a d as a i e i iiall ut it is o o e fu io al. DC Ha di ats e t e is lo ated i the Jaipu ai it. Si e Jaipu is ot fa of f o Sa ga e, the DC H a e ea hed ithi a hou. The go e e t suppo t i situio s a e lo ated i Jaipu it. The oi e s f o go e e t suppo t i situio s do ot isit the ats e. The e a e u e ous o go e e tal o ga isaio s o ki g i Sa ga e to suppo t the p i i g i dust. Ma fo eig u e s isit the pla e ote a d gi e ulk o de s fo p odu io. Ma desig e s o k ith the p i te s. 12 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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A out the P i i g Co munity T adiio all the to has ee a setle e t fo the chippa o u it of p i te s a d d e s, the o d chippa lite a ea i g to p i t Chapna, ith the o u iies ho e e e gaged i p i i g o loth alled chippas. The o al histo of the chippas e alls that thei a esto s ig ated to this a ea f o the egio of Guja at. The easo fo ig aio as the o i uous atles a d a fa e i Au a gze s eig. The Ma athas had also sta ted a ui i g the Guja at a ea th ough o i uous aids. The lo g te, o goi g a e i o e t, a o pa ied esou e depleio p o a l aused the p i te s to ig ate to ajastha seeki g e a kets a d a ate ial. I the illage aste s ste hippa s t a e thei li eage to the Kshat i a la ; the t a e thei li eage as des e de t f o Lo d a s se o d so Kush. A othe th of o igi p e ale t a o g the hippa s is as follo s: o e a ki g a ed aja Sahast a ahu asked a B ah i, Pashu a s othe, to gi e hi he o Ka dhe u. O he efusal the ki g got a g a d killed Pa shu a s fathe. I o de to a e ge the death of his fathe Pa shu a s o e to kill all the kshat i as li i g o the ea th. The eldest so of the ki g a aged to sa e hi self a d led to a te ple of goddess Du ga. The goddess Du ga ga e hi ad i e to e ou e the ki gdo, a d ha ge his p ofessio a d aste a d e o i g a 14 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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p i te he ould sa e hi self a d his fa il. The to of Sa ga e as de eloped Maha aja Sa ai Jai Si gh ho ought a chippas f o a oss the ou t to p odu e p i ted te iles fo the o al fa il. The to as thus de eloped ea the a ks of i e Sa as ai hi h is also alled as D a a ai, its ate s had spe ial ualiies that e ha ed the ight ess i the olou s, thus the olou s d ed i this egio. U fo tu atel the i e has o d ied up a d the ate suppl is th ough oto, pu ps a d the ate ta ks. Toda o e tha fa ilies a e i ol ed i p i i g usi ess i Sa ga e. Ma p i te fa ilies ha e s it hed to s ee p i i g. The to gets se ious o peiio f o the ea illage, Bag u hi h is also a i po ta t e t e fo ha d lo k p i i g. Sa ga e has also adapted s ee p i i g p a i es, ut ats e i Bag u illage la gel p a i e ha d lo k p i i g. The ea th esist dabu hi h uses ud fo esist p i i g is the spe ialit of Bag u illage. But the te h i ue is also fou d i Sa ga e a d a chippas use this te h i ue fo p i i g as ell. Sa ga e is also k o fo its di e t p i i g, ith ed o la k olou ed uis o hite o light olou ed a kg ou d. E e o e i the chippa fa il o ks i the sa e i dust ut the oles a e lea l dei ed the ge de a d age. Wo e do the a illa o k like ashi g, i si g, foldi g fa i, e o i g th eads et. P i i g o fa i, desig de elop e t a d a kei g a d t adi g a e ha dled e of the house. The o k f o to hou s depe di g upo the o k load. Child e sta t lea i g the at f o a ou g age, assisi g the fa il ate s hool hou s, f o thei ea l tee s, just o ki g as Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 19

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helpe s a d doi g s all tasks of foldi g fa i o lea i g the asi d a i g skills. The t adiio al la guage of the egio is Ma a i. Hi di a d E glish a e also o o l used i da to da life. The ele ate all the Hi du fesi al a d take holida s du i g fesi iies. The chippa o u it ha e eligious faith i Sai t Na de of Maha asht a ho elo gs to the Vaish a ite se t, du i g the ele aio of his i th the do t o k at all du i g those da s. P ese tl the t adiio s ha e see a shit i the o ki g le. The i easi g de a d a d glo alizaio has lead to all ea ou d p odu io. But the fesi als a e sill ele ated ith the sa e zeal a d igou. o d rangrez ea s the pe so ho olou the te iles o i si ple te s to d e. The a e ote k o as nilgar as the d e the fa i i i digo (Neel d e. Rangrez a e Su i Musli s. Hi du o u it do ot d e loth as it as o side ed i pu e. But the t adiio al usto s a e o slo l a ishi g ith the ode so iet ith the aste dei ed o upaio s a ishi g. The d ei g o k is take up othe o u iies a d the chippa p i te s ha e sta ted d ei g as ell. Sa ga e o i ues to e a ell esta lished s ee a d ha d lo k p i i g luste. The e a e o e tha 1 atspeople i this i dust a d a of the a e Naio al a d state a a d i e s. The a a d i e s ha e got the ade uate e posu e a d oppo tu iies to g o a d e pa d thei at ut a o -a a dees a e sill ot gei g the ade uate e posu e to lou ish a d the o k o la ou asis ith the i he p i te s. The e is a la ge se io of p i te s populaio hi h is a gi alised the ell esta lished p i te s. The ha e o e posu e to fai s, e hi iio s a d go e e t suppo t poli ies. Suppo i g the chippa o u it is the e uall i po ta t a illa o upaio - ise elated o u iies, hi h i lude the dhobi/ ashe a, the p ess/i o i g a a d othe s. A othe i po ta t o u it hi h e losel o k ith the hippa s is that of the Rangrez. The As pe the dis ussio s ith the ats a. 22 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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About Mend ki Chappai/ Beeswax Resist Hand Block P i i g Sa ga e i st le of p i i g is lou ishi g ut the ees a esist Me dh st le of lo k p i i g, i dige ous to the a ea, has ee lost. The t adiio all lie t o u it de a d has de li ed, though the oifs a d the olou palete o i ue to e p odu ed, al eit th ough a o pletel alte ed p odu io p o ess, a d a e sill a a ke of o u it ide it. This ha ge i the p o ess of p odu io the Me dh ees a esist p i i g is o lo ge p a ised, the a t is ea e i t. The e a e sill a fe ats e ho ha e k o ledge a out the at ut a e ot p a isi g it. The easo is p osai, the fa i used as a ase fo p i i g has o ee epla ed a lighte eight ate ial. This light eight a hi e p odu ed fa i o lo ge eeds the o e hea dut p o ess of mehnd a esist p i i g a d a faste, easie, ui ke ethod has epla ed it. Mendh ki chappai, a ees a esist lo k p i i g p o ess a e t a ed a k to o e a fe e tu ies. The e a t dates a o l e i fe ed ut the Mendh te ile a tefa ts i Cit Pala e Museu i Jaipu p o a l date a k to o e a ea s. The te h i ue used i p i i g the te ile o je ts is esist p i i g, i this e sio of esist p i i g so e po io s of fa i a e esisted a a ediu a d the d ed i the e ui ed olou s the e eai g olou ed pate s i the esisted po io s. The te h i ue appea s to e full de eloped i Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 25

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the pie e ie ed, a sophisi aio that i plies that it has lo g passed the de elop e t stage, ith a p a i e that is o ei ed. This te h i ue e jo s a si ila it ith dabu p i i g, ut u like dabu hi h uilises ud as the esist, Mendh Ki Chappai uilises the o e o ple a d a dous p o ess of usi g ees a as the esist ate ial. The othe spe ial featu e of the mendh is the f ag a e of the fa i hi h has ee p i ted usi g ees a /Mendh, a pleasa t a o a, hi h is etai ed the fa i fo se e al ashes. The ees a i the past as p o u ed f o the fo ests, sou ed f o the Bhil t i al s i e ha ge fo o e o goods, lothes o g ai. I ief, the a esisted the p i ted a ea a d t adiio all the olou palete as of a deep ed o i ed ith a i digo o la k. With the i st olou ei g a esisted ei g the deep ed olou, follo ed the i digo o la k olou, eithe i the i digo at o i e al la k olou. The Dabu te h i ue usi g ud esist is u e tl p a ised i othe e t es i ajastha a d Guja at, ith Bag u ei g a ell k o e t e i the ea i i it. The o igi a d p a ise of Me dh p i i g is ot lea l t a ea le, e e though a e e te si e li a sea h as u de take, ut it see s to e u i ue to Sa ga e as a i fo aio a aila le e io s this geog aphi a ea. The i fo aio stated i the do u e t is f o o al a ou ts of the atspeople isited. Fo the p ese t stud as the p a i e of Me dh ki Chappai has died out o pletel, the hole p o ess a d p o edu e as e eated fo the C at e i al T ust Sh i A desh Pa de. 28 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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Sh i A desh Pa de had i the past, as a ou g a ee t ai ed i his he edita p ofessio his g a dfathe a d fathe, a d had i the past p i ted te iles fo thei t adiio al lie tele usi g the te h i ues of Mendh ki chappai a d the efo e sill etai ed a e o of it. No ith fu the e ol i g a kets a d ha gi g lie t ases he o lo ge p i ts usi g ees a. His lie ts toda ha e litle i te est i t adiio al p o esses a d usto a p i ts; the e appeal is a a iegated olou palete, ha gi g te ile fa i ases a d fashio a le p i ts. We follo ed the p o ess f o sta t to i ish, lea l do u e i g the stages fo poste it. We de iated f o usto a p a i e to the e te t that the i digo d ei g fo mendh p i i g as do e fo the sake of epli aio a e e of the chippa o u it a d ot a t adiio al Neelgar rangrez. Though o, as t adiio all, the i digo a d la k olou d ei g is sill do e the rangrez, ho a e la gel f o the Musli o u it. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 35

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T adiio al P odu ts, T adiio al Clie ts The mendh p i i g has ee ai l used to p i t the phardas. That e e p i ted o eja fa i, the thi k, hea oto ha d o e fa i that e t i to the aki g of the pharda - the t adiio al gathe ed, full le gth ski t, the ghaghras o lehengas, o the Jat, Mee a a d Mali aste o e as dail ea. The p o ess of mendh p i i g is p ese tl ot ei g do e a p i te s fo o e ial pu poses. Ea lie reja oa se loth as used ut late the a hi e ade fa i pharda e e eated hi h e e i e sel popula a o g the peasa t o u iies, e o i g the dail ea fo the Jat, Mali a d Mee a o e. The pharda te iles of s ua e feet e e p odu ed spe iall fo Jat, Mali and Meena o e. The hole s ua e feet te ile as used to ake ghaaghras/lehengas. The phardas e e ello o ju e di i olou. The Mali o e o e lehenga of lue a d ed fa i, o hi h butas of o ia de lea es, etel lea es, chaubundi et e e p i ted. The o e g ee dupatas ith the oifs of dhaniya a d chaubundi. While the Mee a a d othe peasa t lasses o e ello pharda. Jat o e o l o e ed a d la k olou ed chundaris. The t adiio al o su e s a e o o e ea i g the mendh p i ted phardas. The easo pe haps is the a aila ilit of heape fa i s a d the less de a d fo As pe the dis ussio s ith the ats e. 38 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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t adiio all p i ted te iles. The a ate ials ate ha e shot up due to a The othe p odu t p odu ed as a la k dupata ith ed p i i g hi h as e popula ith the Jat o u it o e. P ese tl the e is o k o ledge a out the use of these p odu ts these o u iies. Mina Mi a s a e the la gest s heduled t i es of ajastha. The t a e thei des e t to Mi a ata, a i a aio of Vish u i the fo of a ish. The a e ai l o e t ated i the Jaipu, Al a, Bha atpu, Sa ai Madhopu, To k a d Bu di dist i ts of this State. The Mi a s etai ed a st o ghold a ou d Jaipu u il th e tu, he the e e defeated the Ka hh aha ajputs. Mi a aste is fu the su -di ided i to the )a i da s a d Cho kida s. The )a i da s a e a g oup of Mi a ho allege a ajput des e t hile the Mi a ho kida follo thei t adiio of ei g fa e s a d gua ds a d all the sel es Mi a Thaku. Thei o e d ess i a disi t a e. Mali The e a e a e doga ous g oups ithi Malis. Not all Mali g oups ha e the sa e o igi, ultu e, histo o so ial sta di g a d the e is at least o e g oup f o ajastha that o e laps ith ajputs a d as i luded u de ajput su - atego a d alled ajput Mali a d has a disi i e ha a te a d loodli es o i g f o the ajput t i es the o igi ated f o. Jat The Jats also alled as Choudha, o up a p o i e t posiio i ajastha ei g the la gest g oup i this egio. The a e di ided i to hief la s a d a out i o got as. Though the o igi of the Jat t i e is sh ouded i ste, the Jats sill et a t i al t aits. Ag i ultu e has al a s ee the ai o upaio of the Jats ut o the a e also o ki g i othe ields like ilita a d poli e. The a e also ell ep ese ted i go e e t i il se i es. The G ee e oluio ought o side a le p ospe it to the Jats i the late a d. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 43

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About the Printers of Mendh The ou g ats e do ot i d a i te est i this ki d of p i i g as it is too a duous, pai staki g a d the e is o lie tele. The olde ge e aio s ho p a i ed the at a e eithe ot li i g a o e o t o old to p a ise the a t. The e a e i e fa ilies ho used to do this p i i g 3. The ats e a e as follo s: Late Bal Cha d Ha ath Chippa Sh i a Kisho Chippa Sh i A dhesh Pa de Late Sh i Na a a Chippa Late Sh i Ga i Lal Chippa Late Sh i Mada Lal Chippa. Fo the p ese t stud the e i e p o ess de o st aio s e e gi e Sh i A dhesh Pa de. He is a Naio al A a dee i the ea. He has lea ed the te h i ue of mendh p i i g f o his fathe S i a Kisho Chippa ho used to p a ise mendh p i i g. But o due to old age he has stopped p a i i g the a t. His g a dfathe as a e o ed mendh p i te. The te iles p odu ed hi e e sold at s /- o e tha the a ket p i e. He as a eputed te ile p i te i Sa ga e. He is o o e As told A dhesh Pa de. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 49

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o ut his g a d hild e a e also pu sui g the p i i g usi ess i atu al d ei g. A dhesh Pa de s hild e a e also o ki g i the sa e usi ess. The elde so is o ki g ith the fathe a d the ou ge so is stud i g at a desig s hool i Jaipu. E e o e i the fa il o ks i the p i i g usi ess. A dhesh Pa de s ife is also i the p i i g usi ess a d she does the a illa o k like ashi g, th ead e o i g, a d ualit he k. The desig i g, a kei g a d p i i g a e all do e ale e e s. A dhesh Pa de s daughte had also lea ed the at ut she is o a ied. Chippas a i thei o o u it a d A desh ji s daughe is also a ied to a chippa ho has a s ee p i i g set up i Sa ga e. 52 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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Design Vocabulary of Tradiio The phardas p i ted the mendh p o ess e e ai l i la k, lue a d ed olou s a d its a ia ts o hi h uis of o ia de lea es, etel lea es, chaubundi, chakari, aisi s a d neem lea es e e p i ted. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 55

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Colou Palete of T adiio ed, i digo a d la k a e th ee olou s that a e used i a ious shades f o da k to deep, a d its o i aio s fo t adiio al mendh p i i g. These olou s a e de eloped i to uliple shades du i g the d ei g p o ess ith the skill of the rangrez. The ed, ollo uiall k o as begar, Bla k as syahi a d i digo is aasmani o like the sk. The olou s used i the ea lie da s e e pu el egeta le olou s a d the e e u h o e olou fast as o pa ed to the u e tl used he i al d es. U like the he i al olou s used toda the did ot fade i the su o leed i the ash. The olou s e e pleasi g a d soothi g to the e e a d e ited a pe ulia f ag a e of its o. ed sa dal, He a lea es, Po eg a ates ski, O io ski, Ratanjot, Tesu lo e, Majistha ood, a k of babul t ee a d I digo a e the fe egeta le olou s that a e used i d ei g a d p i i g. Me dh p i i g uses ed, la k a d lue as p i a olou s. Dife e t shades a e o tai a le a i g the ua it of the d e used. The ed p i i g paste is k o as begar, Bla k as syahi a d i digo is aasmani o like the sk. Begar, syahi and aasmani e ai the th ee asi olou s of mendh p i i g. The la k is olou is o tai ed ust i o s aps a d de o posi g jagge i tu e hi h is sto ed fo da s. The de o posiio auses a foul s ell. It as a e disi i e s ell a d the d e s p ese e ould e s elt f o a dista e. Thei ha ds a e o pletel olou ed la k due to d ei g of fa i ith o p ote i e gea. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 57

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Design Vocabulary for Mendh ki Phardas The desig o a ula fo the Mendh ki Phardas as de i ed f o atu e a d the su ou di gs. The i eho ou ed oifs ha e ee i spi ed f o the lo e s, leafs, sh u s, eepe s, i es a d pla ts, a st lised a ia t of da to da life. The ost u i e sal ui as the dhaniya/ o ia de leaf oif a d chaubundi. The idel used t adiio al desig s a e lai, athdi, pa ja, egeta le eepe s, gula ui/ ose lo e, suya ka buta, daakh bel, machhi or pa di, kele ka uta, pataasi, tu i, a gis, udauli, e da, panchklya. The desig s o e out sha p ot o l e ause of the olou ut due to the i e ess of the lo ks. The shades of ed, la k a d lue, a d the i e sha p li es of the oifs togethe eate the disi i e ha a te isi of mendh p i i g. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 59

Base Te ile Fa i The Raison de Etre of Mendh ki Chappai The ase fa i used fo the mendh p i i g as k o as reja, this thi k, oa se, ha d o e loth as popula i ajastha as it suited the ha d ea i g eeds of the ea e. The fa i ei g of a elai el lo oto ou t has su sta e a d thi k ess, p o idi g ool i su e a d a th i the old. This tough fa i e ui ed spe ial p o essi g fo it to e a le to a ept a d etai olou, to a ight ess a d depth that as a epta le to the lie t. The p o esses of p i i g as follo ed fo i e te iles as ot sui ie t fo the reja, as the oa se thi k fa i did ot eadil a ept o etai the olou s f o this p o ess. The ees a i mendh ki chappai sa k i to the thi k fa i, allo i g it to etai the o igi al i h ess of the olou esisted, hile si ulta eousl allo i g fo epeated dips i the i digo o /a d la k d es. epla ed o a hi e ade te iles that o p o ide the ai ase fo p i i g, the p i te o lo ge eeds to follo the de a di g p o ess of p i i g ith mendh.. This p osai, o o pla e a d a al easo is the ai underlying reason for the decline in the knowledge and usage of the mendh ki chappai p o ess, i addiio to of ou se, ha ges i o su e usage pate s a d isi g ost of the i al p odu t. The disi io i the aste a d lass of the ea e as 60 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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appa e t f o thei te ile usage, ith the ha d ea i g reja used lea l disi t o u iies. With ass p odu ed fa i the so ial ide it th ough ase te ile usage is al ost o pletel lost. The ha d o e reja pharda is o epla ed the a hi e o e oto pharda. U ifo it i the ass p odu ed fa i has ashed out the disi t ess of i di idual fa i e ui e e ts a oss astes a d o u iies. The a h of p og ess has gi e a to a ide a ge of fa i s fo e pe i e taio i the p i i g i dust, ith e use s a d fo e eeds ith the i ge uit of the atspeople ei g applied to alte i g usage to suit the e t pes of a aila le fa i s. This ha ge i ase te iles usage has e o ed the e essit of usi g a a esist p o ess fo p i i g. e o i g disi io s i the t pe of lo ks used, i gi g u ifo it to the p o esses that e e ea lie lea l dei ed, ith p i te s spe ialisi g i te h i ues e ui ed fo dife e t lie ts, thei i di idual po kets a d ase te ile e ui e e ts. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 63

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Hand Blocks of the Printers Trade The mendh p i i g e ui es e i e lo ks fo p i i g i o de that the esisted p i ts appea dei ed ith g eate la it. Woode o etal lo ks ha e oth ee used i p i i g mendh. Though lo k ake s a e a aila le i ea Jaipu a d i Sa ga e, fo Me dh p i i g the est sou e these da s, is lo ks ade i the Mee ut egio, as e e e i fo ed the p i te hi self. The lo ks fo mendh/ ees a p i i g a e p efe a l ade of etal, as the a a e easil e o ed f o the etal lo k. Though oode lo ks a also e used ut the e ui e e te si e lea i g e e i e. The etal lo ks a e also e pe si e as o pa ed to the oode lo ks a d the p epa aio i e is le gthie ut the ha e a lo ge, o e du a le life spa ; fo a t pe of p i i g etal lo ks a e o e a el used the ajo it of the p i te s. The lo ks a e of th ee t pes gad/ a kg ou d, rekh/ outli e a d data/ille. These a e the ai ui lo ks. The lo ks fo esist mendh a e sepa ate a d eed to ha e the sa e i e ess a d ualit as fo the ui lo k. 66 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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Other Raw material Beeswax The wax extracted from the bee hive is the unique aspect of the wax resist in Mendh p i i g. The sou i g as ot dii ult i the past due to the abundance of the bee hives in the fo ests. The t i al Bhil populaio ho e e la gel o adi used to t a el a ou d Madh a P adesh, Rajastha a d Guja at, the e t a ted the a a d other materials like gum from the trees in forests of Madh a P adesh a d a te ed the fo food, fodder and money. The auxiliary products used for p i i g e e thus p o u ed th ough Bhil t i es. The est i io s a d a o the e t a io of fo est products has impacted the industry at both the e ds ith the high ost of pu e ees a i pa i g i al p i i g p i es. Pu e ees a is o a aila le at Rs. 800 per kilogram which was earlier available at less than half the rate. Auxiliary chemicals: Soda C or commonly known as soda khar is used i ashi g of the p i ted te iles. Khar is added in the hot water which is used to e o e the a a d i al ashi g is do e fo the printed fabric. Cheed ka ras or Andoli ka tel The important component of the mendh paste is cheed ka ras that is e dii ult to p o u e. But the su situte known as Andoli ka tel is used. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 71

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Tools used i the P i i g Process Paaiya- the p i i g ta le. The ta le is desig ed according to the ergonomics. The printers stand while working and print on the padded table. The ta le is padded ith jute a d loth fo esilie, the fabric to be printed is stretched on it to await the appli aio of the lo k. Blocks- Wooden or Metal hand blocks are used fo the p i i g. O e is the ui block and other is mendh block that is used to resist the printed pate. B ush- The ush is used to lea the lo k ate p i i g. The a si ks to the lo k hi h is removed by this brush. A burner to heat the wax- The burner is fed ith oal. The oal p o ides the e ui ed, e e temperatured heat. The earthen vessel containing wax is put over the burning coal. The wax has to be heated o i uousl ill the p i i g is o e. Earthen/Metal vessel ( maardiya) This is the essel for keeping wax. It is either metal or earthen pot that a e heated hile p i i g is a ied o. The e a e othe essels fo lea hi g, ashi g a d cleaning. 80 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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Tools for Dyeing I digo ats, glo es a d a oode si k - I digo at is k o as maat/math. I digo at is a - feet deep pit he i the g ou d hose dia ete is ig e ough to i e se the fa i a d the f ee o e e t. The hole is illed ith i digo d e, ate. I o de to o tai a g ee olou po eg a ate ski s a e added to the at. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 87

Process and Technique These steps e e e eated fo the C at Re i al Trust research team as Mend Ki Chappai is no longer p a ised. Steps i Mendh p i i g: P e-p epa aio s:... The g e fa i is ashed a d lea hed i the su. To e ha e lea hi g the fa i is also lea hed he i all ith h d oge pe o ide. T adiio all o he i al lea hi g as do e a d the fa i as lea hed i e i et the su a s. The g e fa i is p o u ed f o E ode i Ta il Nadu. The su lea hed fa i is d ied i the su. The p o ess is k o as sukhai i lo al la guage. The p o ess of p i i g is a i e o su i g p o ess as ate e e step ashi g a d d i g is e essa. P o ess of ashi g is k o as pachdai a d d i g of fa i is sukhai. The lea hed fa i is the o da ted ith harada. The p o ess takes at least a hou. It is lea l k o that atu al d es do ot ha e ai it fo the te iles. So the te ile has to e ade e epi e to d e a so pio - This p o ess of o da i g the te iles is also k o as pila karna o harada d ei g. D i g is follo ed. 88 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

Step by Step Process Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 89

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Phase I P i i g; Sanganeri style. The fa i is p i ted i the usual st le of Sanganer p i i g. I this p i i g t o t pes of olou s a e used - ed o la k. The ed olou p i i g paste is also k o as begar. See also e ipe The la k olou p i i g paste is k o as syahi. See also e ipe. The fa i is ashed a d d ied agai. Phase II P i i g fo esist... The fa i is o ead fo the i st esist p i i g phase. The ead mendh i the ea the essel o i o essel k o as mardiya is put o e the heai g oal. The te pe atu e of a out deg ees C is e ui ed fo p i i g the a. See also P o le s that a ose du i g p i i g A et loth is put o e the paai a P i i g ta le. This is a e i po ta t step i the a p i i g e ause this helps to ool of the a o the fa i. The d i g ate a p i i g is also do e i shade o the a a elt o the fa i. 94 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

Dyeing Recipe for washing for removal of wax. The fa i is the d ed i i digo. T o dips i i digo at p odu es g ee olou hile the - dips p odu e a da ke i digo olou. I o ails+ Jaggery+ Wate a e de o posed fo da s, ill It sta ts gi i g a foul s ell. Recipe for Mein resist 4 Ate t eat e t.. The fa i is agai d ied i shade a d the ashed i hot ate to e o e the a. The p o ess of e o i g a is k o as ukala. Alo g ith the hot ate so e soda khar is added fo lea i g. The te ile is gi e a i al ash, i sed a d d ied. Andoli ka Tel kg Cheed ka Tel- ½ kg Bee Wa - ½ kg Pa ai Wa - ½ kg The e i e p o ess fo p i i g takes a out - da s as e e step i the p o ess e ui es i si g a d ashi g. Recipe for Begar (red colour) Alu + Gu + Wate + Geru Fo the de o st aio pu poses, the paste as ade ith kg of Andoli Tel, Bee a a d Pa ai a ea h Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 95

Step by Step Process 96 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

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P odu io Details The at is o lo ge p a ised i Sanganer. I the past the p odu io as seaso al fo mendh p i i g ith a lo poi t du i g the ai seaso due to the oistu e lade at osphe e. The fa i did ot d easil a d the p i i g p o ess e ui ed e te si e d i g a d ashi g. I i te s the a took lo ge i e to elt a d p i i g the elted a as dii ult e ause as soo as the lo ks as e o ed f o the heai g essel o tai i g a, it d ied i the old ai. The est i e fo mendh p i i g as su e s. The heai g of a as ot a p o le. Ut ost a e as e ui ed fo ooli g of the a as soo as it as p i ted o the fa i. This as possi le pui g the fa i to e p i ted o a et loth. The old loth i ediatel d ied the a o fa i su fa e. Co t olli g the app op iate easu es as u h easie du i g su e he e p i i g as est suited fo su e seaso. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 103

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Re o e daio s The e o e daio s fo this at, Mendh ki Chapai/ a esist p i i g of Sanganer, a o e i t at, he e the fa ilies ho k o the at ha e stopped p a isi g it, though e o of its te h i ue is sill ali e i the atspeople, is th eefold - Fi st, the Resea h a d Do u e taio oute Se o d, the Niche Revival oute Thi d, is the help to atspeople ith k o ledge Resea h a d Do u e taio oute Mendh ki Chapai/ o the a esist p i i g of Sanganer/ Bagru is o a al ost e i t at. The fa ilies ho k o the at ha e stopped p a isi g it due to a ious easo s. The efo e it is ii all i po ta t to do u e t the ats i its e i et iz; the o igi, o u it, a ate ial, p odu io a d p o esses, p odu ts, o su e s, a d sig ii a e efo e all e o of it is lost. The do u e taio e ui es i ediate a io as the e is o detailed a ou t of the at i a pu li aio o ook i fa t this ate pt C T u de the aegis of the DC Ha di ats oi e is the i st ate pt ade to do u e t the at. The do u e taio ust i lude ideo a d audio e o di gs, esides p ofessio al photog aph. Wa esist p i i g is a u usual p o ess, it is lo g d a a d pai staki g, the e eated at a e used to sho ase I dia s iad t adiio s du i g se i a s, e hi iio s a d fai s as a la guishi g/e i t te h i ue. Niche Revival The at is disi i e a d holds a spe ial pla e i the p i i g i dust of Rajastha as this is a fo of lo k p i i g that a o k su essfull o thi k, lo ou t a d hea fa i s, su h as ho e fu ishi g ate ial, dhu ies et he e o e io al ethods of lo k p i i g do ot o k so ell as issues of lu i g a d detaili g of the pate a ise, as do p o le s i deli eaio a d depth of olou Thus the e i al of Me dh at th ough p odu t de elop e t a d a kei g is e essa, th ough i he te ile usage a d its a di g. e i al of the at appoi i g a desig e to de elop the desig s a d o te po a oifs to use the i a e i o ai e a o ho e fu ishi g a d dhu ies, oade i g the o su e ase, e ou age e po t a d do esi t ade. Help to atspeople ith K o ledge The desig e / a kei g age ill also eed to sou e a ate ials as all the t adiio al ha els of p o u e e t a e lost. E te si e esea h i this a ea is e essa so that o e atspe so a i g mendh p i i g i to thei p odu io les. The a ate ial is sou ed f o the fo ests of Madh a P adesh so a t a spa e t ha el of a ate ial hai eeds to e esta lished. O e esta lished as a ete p o ess fo ho e fu ishi g ate ial, ou ge p i te s eed to e e ou aged to lea a out it f o those atspeople ho sill etai the k o ledge. A 106 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

o kshop o t ai i g p og a ust e do e to i g oth the ou g a d olde ge e aio togethe to e i e the at. Health safegua ds, edu aio, i oi a e fa ilit, desig de elop e t. O upaio al health fa iliies to the p i te s a d asso iated o u iies a d thei fa ilies. Health i su a e s he e fo thei fa ilies Mi o edit fa ilit fo pu hase of a ate ial as it is o e of the ajo easo fo the de li e of the at I ol i g e isi g NGO s i the luste to eate a i he a ket fo the la guishi g at alo g ith the lou ishi g Sa ga e i st le of p i i g. A a ds of E elle to the ats e asso iated i the at. The e a e a la ge u e of atspeople i lo k p i i g i Jaipu, Sa ga e a d Bag u, a d a of the a e Naio al a d state a a d i e s. The a a d i e s ha e got the ade uate e posu e a d oppo tu iies to g o a d e pa d thei at ut a o -a a dees a e sill ot gei g the ade uate e posu e to lou ish a d the o k o la ou asis ith the i he p i te s. The e is a la ge se io of p i te s populaio hi h is a gi alised the ell esta lished p i te s. The ha e o e posu e to fai s, e hi iio s a d go e e t suppo t poli ies. The high ost of the a ate ials has also i pa ted the e dh at. The pu e ees a is a aila le at s. pe kilog a hi h as ea lie a aila le at just half the ate. The etal lo ks a e also e pe si e as o pa ed to the oode lo ks that a e p ese tl used i the i dust. Metal lo ks a e e a el used the ajo it of the p i te s. The i po ta t o po e t of the mendh paste is cheed ka ras that is e dii ult to p o u e. But the su situte k o as Andoli ka tel is used. All these fa to s ha e also lead to loss of the at. Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 107

A isa Co ta t List A dhesh Pa de Wo ks i egeta le a d atu al d ed lo k p i ted fa i s a d ho e li e s A.K. Te iles Ge Viha Khadi G a Ud og oad Sa ga e Tel: - Mo ile: a dheshak@ ahoo. o.i.akte iles.i Sa ja Chippa Y- Maha ee Naga. Behi d Cho di a pet ol pu p. Sa ga e Jaipu -. Mo ile:,,. Research Methodology Diag osi Stud o La guishi g C at leadi g to spe ii e o e daio s fo its safeguarding S tu tu ed a d No -St u tu ed Quesio ai e The a e i hi h the assess e t as o du ted as ith a st u tu ed a d o -st u tu ed uesio ai e that suited the e ui e e t/u i ue ess of o te t a d pla e spe ii issues of ea h la guishi g at. This te plate allo ed fo a a al sis ithi the o te t a d eeds of ea h la guishi g at ithi the o e all o je i es. The u st u tu ed uesio s adopted is oad, lea l a d p es ipi e to allo the aptu i g of a pi tu e of a at that is i u ge t eed of safegua di g o othe ise. The lo g list of ope e ded uesio s/a eas to e ta kled ill e o : Terms of Reference... To ide if the u e of at pe so s, thei a es, a d add ess To stud the p o le fa ed the a isa s i di iduall a d the g oup as a hole, i p a i i g the at. To stud the i te est of the a isa s i o i ui g the at t adiio B ij Balla h Udai al. To stud the ai otle e ks a d the dii ult a eas 108 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

.. hi h a a isa s e ou te s i p a i i g the at To stud a d gathe i fo aio hethe the at la guishi g is also p a i ed i the i i it of the a ea o outside it To stud a d a al ze e ui ed i te e io of the Go e e t iz. a iz. dife e t s he e u de i ple e taio fo de elop e t of the ha di ats se to. Cli ate espe iall its i pa t of p odu io les, a aila ilit of esou es, o o sales T a spo t li ks/a essi ilit of luste iz. oad, ail a et Nea est us staio, ailhead, f e ue of ehi les Fa iliies a aila le i a ea ou ie, postal se i es, edi al se i e, sto es he e ate ials e ui ed a e a aila le, othe sou es, etail e ues. To stud a d suggest easu e of e i al of the la guishi g at e o d the a it of Go t. s he es. Documentation Template A out the at e t e PART I A ea a e Cluste size Map Topog aph (especially presence of local water bodies) Geog aph pa i ula l to u de sta d p o le s elai g to i f ast u tu e, the p o isio of se i es, isolaio f o a kets E i o e tal o diio s i pa i ula, a e the e egai e i pa ts f o the efe t of li ate ha ge, for instance, more regular droughts, and does this afe t the luste? Ge de Ho is the o k a i it di ided et ee the ge de s. A e the a i iies i te - ha gea le? O are there gender norm, which restrict this, does this afe t p odu io? If o e a e p odu e s, hat a e thei do esi a a ge e ts Age: Is a i it / ole also depe da t o age of o ke? Probe Histo - Ho as the at i iiated i this egio? B ho? At hat i e? Fo e.g. the Mughal i iatu e pai i g t adiio al as fo all i iiated E pe o Hu a u ho on his return from exile in Persia, brought with him 2 aste s f o the Pe sia ou t. Ea l Mughal i iatu es the efo e sha e a ha a te isi s as well as content of Persian miniatures and it was not u il the eig of Ak a, ho a i el e ou aged the inclusion of regional elements that a truly Mughal st le as de eloped What pat o age did the at e jo i the past (if any) What a t/ a hite tu al/ pe fo i g a ts t adiio s Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 109

e ist lo all? Ha e a of these i lue es the at i a espe t? Do the sha e a oifs, s olis, itual usage? Does the pate o desig ep ese t status, age, ge de, o u it et? If so, ide if the desig, a d its ea i g. Is it p edo i a tl a at luste? What othe o upaio s e ist i the a ea? A e these li ked i a a to the at? Fo e.g. the la a e t adiio of Eikopaka e ists only because tribals journeying to the South carrying lac to be sold to the jewellers of Tamil Nadu used to pause at this lo aio a d ould a te so e of thei product in exchange for food) Is the t adiio o al? Do atspeople ha e a ess to do u e taio of thei o t adiio s? Does do u e taio e ist if es hose ha ds is it i? Nu e of p a i i g a ists/ households O iousl, a census like mapping is not possible but it would e e helpful if e ould get a se se of ho a p a iio e s e ist e e if the u e s a e e e esi ates haza ded the atspe so s PART II A e the a DCH e t es o othe asso iated go e e t o se i-go e e t i situio s i the egio eg MPHSN o ajastha State O ga isaio? A e the atspe so s o ki g ith/fo a NGOS i the egio? Whi h NGOs/ SHGs/ oope ai es a e a i e i the a ea? Ho fa is the ea est go e e t suppo t i situio? Whi h NGOs a e a i e i this a ea? This is ii al as the ould e lo g te o ito i g pa t e s Ho f e ue tl do oi e s f o go e e t suppo t i situio s isit? P o e I o de to assess a d u de sta d the lo al situaio, please p o ide a ief SWOT a al sis a out the st e gths; eak esses, a d th eats to the luste. About the tools What tools a e used? Whe e a e the sou ed f o? Ho u h do the ost? ( Do keep an eye out for i o aio s ade the atspeople su h as the i le pu p ope ated d e sp a e i e ted a atspe so i Ku hh to fa ilitate e e stai i g of large bolts of fabric) If the a e ade the atspe so s the sel es, ho is this do e? What a e the alled lo all please use e a ula te s a d i lude t a slaio s fo sa e I lude all tools used like d e pots, p i i g eds, ta les et i ase of p i i g. Spe if ate ials, p i es, easu e e t, f e ue of pu hase Quesio a ess to go e e t fu ds/s he es fo pu hase of tools/d e ats et 110 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

About the raw materials What is the ase ate ial used? Does it dife fo dife e t p odu ts Whe e a e the sou ed f o? B ho? Ho u h do the ost? A e a ate ials eadil a aila le? If ot, hat a e the halle ges fa ed i a essi g the ate ial? I hat ua it is it pu hased. What a e the i i u s Ho a e ate ials sto ed? If the ate ial is p odu ed lo all, hi h o u it p odu es it? Ha e the e ee a ha ges i the ate ial used? Whe e as it sou ed f o ea lie What p o pted the ha ge? Does a ket de a d fo heape p odu ts esult i su situio ith heape a ate ials? Ho has it i pa ted the fo /st le/ p odu t? Ca a ate ials e pu hased o edit? If es f o ho a d at hat i te est ate? Is the e a olle i e p o u e e t of ate ials o is it do e i di iduall? I ase of halle ges, hat do the ats e the sel es e o e d to i p o e the situaio? About the process Note the e i e p odu io p o ess, step step, ith a li e de o st aio, ii g do a a io s, a d, o e pla aio s, i ludi g i e f a es fo ea h step. Des i e i detail the p o ess follo ed i step- step a e ith photog aphs fo ea h stage. Des i e the p i a o k a ea a d p epa aio s, alo g ith the a ou t of i e take i ea h step. Note the desi ed output of ea h step o siste / olou /te tu e/ olu e; a d a i g sig s that the p o ess is goi g o g. At ea h stage, oss he k the se ue es of the p odu io p o ess. A e the e a spe ii stages i the te h i ue o o i aio s of te h i ues that dei ii el ha a te ise this pa i ula t adiio? What spe ial skills a e e ui ed to ake the p odu t? Does e e o e i the luste possess the skills a d e pe ise fo aki g it? Ha e the e ee a i o aio s i te h i ue? Des i e. What a e the astes asso iated ith the p o ess? Ho a e the disposed of? Ha e a alue addiio s ee ade to the p odu t? Who ha e the t adiio al desig s, oifs/la outs ha ged? Is the aste atspe so espo si le? A e desig s skills passed o pa i ula o u it Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 111

e e s? Note, that this may be informal, for e a ple, th ough o al t adiio s. What is the t adiio al o a ula fo desig s please gi e lo al a es? Whi h is the oldest k o desig? What desig s a e asso iated ith ituals? A e desig s eadil adapted? What desig s a e fa ou ed o? Who i t odu ed the? About infrastructure Does the luste ha e ele t i it? Fo ho a hou s i the da? If ot, h is ele t i it ot a aila le? A e the e alte ai e opio s fo po e, if so, hat a e the? Do the ha e ge e ato s? What a out ate suppl? Taala s/ta ks/ ate sou e I ase of d ei g te iles, he e a e the ashed, d ed, d ied? E iste e of health a d safet sta da ds a d easu es. If o e, e ist a e the e ui ed? (For e.g. a e the o kshops ell illu i ated? Ask the a out thei health; list a health p o le s, alo g ith s pto s. List pote ial he i al, to i, ele t i al, heat, oise, a d, o e go o i haza ds. A e thei a health e t es ea? E o-f ie dl te h i ues o ate ials fo t eai g a ate ial, at p o ess, a d/o disposal of astes/ -p odu ts Whe e do the o ke s li e? If i a housi g- u - o k shed please des i e. I lude i fo aio o toilets. If the li e a a f o the o kshop a ea, ho do the o ute to o k a d ho lo g does it take to o ute? Is the e a o pute, ith a ess to i te et I fo aio Co u i aio Te h olog ICT a aila le? A e the e the k o ledge a d e pe ise to use o pute s? If so, is the e a e ail add ess fo the luste, ith a o i ated pe so ho has the skills to e ei e a d se d e ails? Do the ha e a Co o Fa ilit Ce t e? If es get all details Do the hild e go to s hool? Is the e a sho oo he e isito s o lie ts a see the te iles p odu ed? Spe if e ui e e ts fo the luste to i p o e ualit of life A out the desig, olou palete a d p odu t a ge What e e the t adiio al p odu ts ade ith this at? Does the p odu t a ge ei g eated toda dife? If so, i hat a? What has aused these ha ges? 112 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai

Who as the usto e fo the t adiio al p odu t? A e the a spe ii p i ts, olou s, oifs asso iated ith the o u it, i othe o ds, its u i ue desig t adiio s? Des i e oifs, oth t adiio al a d o t adiio al, a st a t, a d igu ai e et. Do the ha e a do u e taio? O is e e thi g o al? What is the s olis asso iated ith the oifs used? We e the p odu ts p odu ed/ used o spe ii o asio s su h as eddi gs, deaths, ituals, fesi als et? Ha e these ee epu posed ith ha ges i the a kets ate ed to? Who is the usto e fo the u e t p odu t? Ho did the atspe so ea h this e a ket seg e t? Do the atspe so s p odu e a p odu ts fo thei o / lo al use? P o ide a list of p odu ts, alo g ith photog aphs a d des ipio s i ludi g te tu e, ualit, feel, olou, p i e, look, sizes. P o e p i es Is the e a p odu t de elop e t le that the luste follo s? Does the luste a i el desig e p odu ts? Who desig s the p odu ts? A e desig e s hi ed? A e a ists ope to o ki g ith desig e s? Is the e a ualit he k? What a e the e h a ks used the luste fo easu i g ualit? Is the p odu t desig ed ith a a e ess fo e i o e tal o e s, hu a safet, health, o fo t, a d p odu t pe fo a e? Do p odu ts o tai i fo aio o the ate ial o te t of the p odu t alo g ith a e i st u io s? Do p odu ts ha e a p odu t ide ii aio s ste that is si ple a d eas to u de sta d? What is disi t a out the p odu t? What is its U i ue Selli g P oposiio USP? P o e desig de elop e t i te e io Go t a d othe s Is the e a luste desig e appoi ted? If es, p o e A out p odu io What is the le of p odu io? Fo i sta e, is it seaso al? Ho has this ha ged f o the ethod of o igi al p odu io, if at all? Whe e does p odu io take pla e? I the housi g u o k shed, i a ka kha a, at a Co o Fa ilit Ce t e/ at the Coop? Spe if Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai 113

Is ea h step of the p odu io o pleted i o e e t al lo aio, o a e the e uliple lo aio s? Des i e the a ist s o kpla e. Des i e the ge e al o diio s. What is the p odu io apa it of a luste / atspe so / ka kha a? What is o side ed a la ge o de? What is the i i u o de ua it to e p odu ed fo the o de to e e o o i all ia le? What is the total ua it of p odu io i a ea? What is the p oit a gi? Ho u h of this is ei ested i the usi ess? Ca o siste i ualit of output e assu ed, espe iall if la ge p odu io o de s a e e ei ed? A e the e te h ologi al i te e io s that ould e do e i p o e p odu i it? This ould take pla e at a stage of the p odu io p o ess. Does the o u it fa e o peiio f o the o ga ized/ ass p odu io a ufa tu i g e t es? Ho has this i pa ted thei usi ess? Has a Go e e t s he e helped to i p o e p odu io? A t ai i g p og a s ee o ga ized to i p o e p odu io? A out the atspe so s To de elop a u de sta di g of the halle ges, p o le s, o st ai ts a d pa a ete s ithi hi h the atspe so s ope ate a sele io of the should e i te ie ed. Is the at the t adiio al o upaio of the atspe so s fa il o is it a elai el e l a ui ed skill? If e, he as this o upaio take up a d h? If it as the t adiio al o upaio, t a e the fa il histo th ough a t ee a d e plo e a thi al/ folklo e o e ts that e plai thei a i al/setle e t i the egio o thei i iiaio i to the at. A e the li ked to si ila at o u iies i othe pa ts of the ou t? Ha e a t ai ed ats e / o u it e e s let thei t adiio? easo h What a e so e of the p o le s that the fa e hi h i pa ts the su i al of the at, fo i sta e, a ess to a kets, o a ate ials, et? What a e the easo s fo the la guishi g at t adiio s, a d su esses a d failu es i e i al? T ai i g Ho did the i di idual lea the t ade? Who did the app e i e ith? Ho lo g did the p o ess take? A e the e e ui e e ts fo skill le els, t ai i g, a d, o de elop e t? Pe so al uesio s What a e thei hopes a d aspi aio s? Do the pa i o e ta? Do they own o ile pho es? Do the ha e i su a e? What is thei le el of edu aio? Do the ha e a k 114 Languishing Crafts: Mendh Ki Chapai