LANGUISHING CRAFT GHESO PAINTING ON CAMEL LEATHER / USTA KAAM. Bikaner, Rajasthan

Sponsored by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles Government of India Research Study and Documentation by S-4 Khirki Extn, New Delhi - 110 017 Tel: +91-11-29545015 Email: mail@craftrevival.org Web Encyclo Journal: www.craftrevival.org LANGUISHING CRAFT GHESO PAINTING ON CAMEL LEATHER / USTA KAAM, Bikaner, Rajasthan LANGUISHING CRAFT GHESO PAINTING ON CAMEL LEATHER / USTA KAAM Bikaner, Rajasthan Sponsored by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles Government of India

LANGUISHING CRAFT GHESO PAINTING ON CAMEL LEATHER / USTA KAAM Bikaner, Rajasthan Sponsored by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Ministry of Textiles Government of India Research Study and Documentation by

Acknowledgement C at Re i al T ust tha ks the Oi e of the De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats, Mi ist of Te iles, Go e e t of I dia, fo thei suppo t a d spo so ship of this e i po ta t su je t. We a k o ledge ith tha ks h i.. Gupta, De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats fo his help a d suppo t. Tha ks to t Alka A o a, Addiio al De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats fo he o sta t suppo t. Ou tha ks to h i Rohit Bha d aj, Di e to, Oi e of the De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats Tha ks a e also due to the oi e a d staf of Oi e of the De elop e t Co issio e Ha di ats

Contents A out the Pla e A out Ustaa Kaa / Gesso Wo k o Ca el Leathe Desig Vo a ula, Colou Palate, P odu t Ra ge A out the Usta A ists A out the P o ess Maki g of Leathe Co tai e s Wood Based Usta Kaa La i g the Pate Mi oi Wo k P o ess of Na ashi Cu e t ituaio Re o e daio s A isa Co ta t List Resea h Methodolog 07 12 20 28 41 61 69 69 74 79 82 96 112 112

Rajastha 6 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

About the place The A a alli a ge is a outsta di g geog aphi al featu e of Rajastha that di ides Rajastha i t o egio s. The east of A a alli is a ked its plateau a d i e s a d fo ests hile the est is a ked a a id dese t la d that st et hes f o the o th of Ra of Kut h, passi g the este Rajastha to so e po io s of Pu ja. The li ate is e t e e i su e s a d i te s a d ai fall is i i al. Bika e is s all to o this st et h of Tha Dese t ith all the ode da fa iliies of a ki g, pu li t a spo taio a d postal se i es a d ail a. The ail a s ha e ee i t odu ed i to Bika e Maha ja Ga ga i gh a d his a e i the histo of ail a s is al a s a k o ledged a d e e e ed the lo als. Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 7

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About Usta Kaam/ Gesso work on camel leather Usta kaa o a el leathe /Gesso o k de o st ates lea l the i ge uit of the atspe so, thei adapta ilit to a ha gi g lie tele, thei deep u de sta di g of ate ial a d ho ha gi g i es afe t the atspe so s a ilit to su i e. The Usta a t is a al ost half a ille iu ea s old a t fo that as ought to I dia f o Pe sia du i g the eig of the Mughals. Its o e to Bika e f o the Mughal ou t o u ed du i g the eig of E pe o Ak a he Raja Rai i gh, the the Raja of Bika e, ought to Usta a ist fa ilies to Bika e to li e a d o k the e. Usta a t is a a alga of t o fo s of de o aio a oi, also alled u a hai, hi h is the asi e ossi g do e o the lat su fa e a d its o i aio ith a ashi hi h is the pai i g o the a oi. The t adiio al o k of the Usta a ists as a hite tu al e ellish e t e e uted i a je el like a e eii g the ost o al of eside es. While Usta kaa o a el leathe has its oots i the adapta ilit of the Usta a ists to thei lie ts, ho ith the ad e t of the B iish a d du i g Colo ial ule esulted i the di e sii aio of thei a t fo to its appli aio o a el hide. The p odu ts ade i luded saddles fo a els a d ho ses, ate a ie s a d othe de o ai e ite s like photo f a es, ases, i o f a es, o es of all sizes et. p odu ts usa le i I dia a d e po ta le a k to B itai. The Usta a t as i st i iiated o a hite tu e as it is 12 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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e ide t f o the A up Mahal of the Ju aga h fo t i Bika e. The e has ee detailed e io of A up Mahal i Geo ge Wat s ook I dia A t at Delhi he e the gold o k o all has ee e og ised as Usta kaa - gesso o k. The Ju aga h fo t has ee ado ed Gesso o k at a pla es. The Gesso o k o Usta o k as o l do e o alls a d oo s i uildi g a d pala es of hi h Ju aga h Fo t is the est e a ple ut ith the ad e t of B iishe s the di e sii aio i the a t as i t odu ed. The easo a gued as the e po t of a t of Usta i easie a ould e th ough eai g a el ski lasks, ases et. Bika e lo ated i the Tha desse t egio of Rajastha he e the a el as a ajo sou e of t a spo taio a d li elihood, a i dispe sa le pa t of e e da life, ith its hide also used fo a ulitude of uses. The e sailit of the Usta a ists a e see he e i the t a sfe of thei o k of Ma oi o alls a d i a hite tu al detaili g o to its i iatu izaio a d adaptaio o to lasks, otles, la pshades hi h e e ade out of a el hide a d de o ated ith Usta pai i g a t fo o alt a d the olo ial aste s du i g the B iish Raj. Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 17

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Design Vocabulary, colour palete, produ t ra ge The desig s o a ula is hugh a d de o st ates the e sailit of the Usat a ists. F o geo et i pate s, lo al, i ds, a i als to i iatu e like pai i gs; ith o de s a d spe ial pate i g to it the silhouete of the p odu ts, the a ge is e te si e. The e is a lo i the pate a d a o plete ala e is eated i the hole o je t. The desig see s to e i spi ed f o the a hite tu al fo s a d t a sfe ed o to a pape ith pe i a i iatu ised fo to suit the edu ed size of the a as a aila le to the a ist. The desig is t a ed f o the pape to o je t that is to e de o ated. All the desig s o ute pape a e the sto ed hi h a e used agai o e o je ts. Ma i es the p odu ts a e ade to o de as pe the u e s de a d. The p odu t a ge i ludes ases, lask ade of a el ski, oode o a e ted f a es, i o f a es, la p ases a d la p shades, a a ge of dife e tl sized o es a d othe o te po a p odu ts. E ide tl the e ha e also ee ha ges i the p odu ts as o o e o te po a p odu ts like f a es; la p shapes a e isi le i the a ket. The desig s a e less i t i ate a d o e idel spa ed. The ase a el hide is easil a aila le i Bika e as it is o e of the th ee pla es i I dia hi h has its o eed of a els. The othe a el eeds a e Jaisal e i a d Kut hhi. The a el ski is e easil a aila le. 20 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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The olou s used a e je el like, esple de t a d t pi all I dia u ed, e e ald g ee, sapphi e lue a d of ou se the u i uitous gold. Ate I depe de e a d ith B iish ule -go e the a t e ei ed a set a k. The de a d fo the p odu t is sill the e ut e lo thus aki g the a isa s to shit the othe o k. Most of the Usta a ists as dis ussed ea lie a e a k to de o ai g the alls ith ha dl fe people doi g the a el ski o k. Of fa ilies of Usta o u it o l - fa ilies a e sill doi g the a el ski o k hi h as also o i ed the dapga ho akes the ould fo the Usta s. Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 25

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A out the Usta Arists Usta a ists a e ill date li i g a d o ki g i the Usta Mohalla i Bika e, a setle e t that as a ed ith thei o i g to Bika e a out ea s ago. At p ese t a a out a fa ilies a e esidi g i the Mohalla, ut o l o a e sill doi g the gesso o k o a el ski, hile the e ai i g Usta a ists a e ostl o ki g o a hite tu al de o aio i uildi gs all o e I dia a d the o ld. It is e ide t that the at o u it a d the othe elated o u iies a e losel li ked to ea h othe i the sa e a as ea lie. The a ate ial is easil a aila le i the lo al a ket hile a a, o e of the e ui e e ts fo the a t, is p o u ed f o Jaipu. The at is fa il ased o upaio that has ee i the Usta o u it si e a e tu ies. It is ge de spe ii a d all the o k is di ided a o g the e a d o e. The desig i g a d a kei g of the p odu t is ha dled e a d a ious a illa o ks a e ha dled o e. Though e e o e i the fa il has k o ledge of all thi gs ut the si k to the o k assig ed to the. Ate dis ussio s ith the ats e it as fou d that ou ge ge e aio do ot i d a i te est i the at due to lo e etu s o the highl pai staki g o k. Appli aio of a a is a e tedious p o ess he e the a isa so ei e has to o t ol his eath to a oid the a a to l a a. A othe i te esi g thi g that a e du i g the isit as that e e Usta a isa does the at as a side usi ess 28 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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alo g ith ai st ea p ofessio al a i iies. The ats e Aj al Hussai Usta also u s a usi ess of a u e plates alo g ith Usta o k. The ats e Ha if Usta is a tea he i a ollege alo g ith hi h he o i ues the fa il at. The e i e usta o u it li es togethe the e e pla ed i Bika e i usto ka ohalla, although the hole o u it li es togethe ea h fa il o ks sepa atel. The a age thei usi esses i depe de tl ithi thei fa ilies. All the usta a ists ha e a ai st ea p ofessio alo g hi h the a o thei a esto al Usta a t. o e a e o ki g i go e e t se i es, so e ha e take othe ki ds of usi esses a d a of the a e i p ofessio al jo ields like la, tea hi g et. E e fa il has its o o ki g apa iies; so e ha e o kshops othe tha ho e hile a o k f o ho e. O e of the ats e has a shop i a ket f o he e he sells his p odu t alo g ith his othe usi ess of Ca u e plates. Du i g the isit a of the a isa s ha e ee out of to to a ious pla es fo o k o uildi g like hotels, ho es et. With dis ussio ith the fa ilies of ats e it as fou d that ost of the Usta a ists a e o ki g o the uildi gs a d the e a e o l fe a isa s ho a e a tuall o ki g o the a el hide ski. AJ al Hassa Usta s othe is a la e p ofessio a d does ot sho i te est i o i ui g the fa il o k. Thei ajo o e as the le els of o upio i go e e t a d ho e e i e he the applied Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 33

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fo Naio al A a d the e e ot sele ted. The also do t ish to sell p odu ts th ough a iddle ha el see i g the a e a a e of the e ploitaio. The ish to do usi ess di e tl ith the o su e s. Aj al Usta a d his fathe had o e ope ed a e site ut the do ot feel happ i doi g usi ess th ough e site. The ish to do usi ess i a t adiio al a. The also do ot take la ge a ou ts of o de s as the e a e fe e fa il e e s a e i the usi ess. The do t ha e o ke s assig ed f o outside the o u it. The o k is do e ithi the fa il. Aj al Hussai Usta has also e ei ed a state a a d fo Ca el hide Usta a ts. 36 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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About the Process Usta o k o e u de a fa ous s hool of pai i g of hi h i the past Ruk -Ud-Di a d Ali Raza e e the aste s a d the p ese t ge e aio s of Usta a ists ha e des e ded f o the. The e a e o e aste s of the a t hose a es e e ot a aila le. It took fo of t o t pes of de o aio ; a oi o u a hai, hi h is the e ossed o k, o i ed ith a ashi hi h is the pai i g o the e ossi g. Ma oi o k is the fa ous a isi o k that also happe s to e o e e pe si e as it e ui ed u h o e paie e a d i e. Ma oi paste is uilt a spe ial p epa aio ostl of glue a d othe i di g ate ials. O the i de gold leaf is applied a d i all a ishi g is do e to gi e it a s ooth shi te tu e. The desig di e to is ast a d i ludes i es, o de s, lo al, ith i ds a d a i als,. The t adiio has ee o all t a sfe ed f o ge e aio to ge e aio. The a ist sta ts lea i g the at f o e ea l age a d ostl the e is o e tea he o guide ith ho the app e i e o ks ill he is full ualiied. About Warak Wa a is a ke i g edie t i the Usta a ists po folio. E t e el i e Gold a d sil e leaf sheets a e k o as warak. The sheets a e ade eai g s all pie es of sil e a d gold that ha e ee pla ed et ee sheets of i e leathe. Wa ak is ade at a ious e te s a ou d I dia. Jaipu is o e of the la gest a ak - aki g e te s; he e the a ak is ade the pannigar o u it. Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 41

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Warak has a u e of uses, oth sil e a d gold foil a e said to ha e edi i al p ope ies a d a e used e te si el i a u eda. il e foil is used to de o ate food su h as mithai a d u i. Both gold a d sil e warak a e used e te si el fo de o ai e pu poses. The a e applied o statu es a d a hite tu al details to p o ide o a e taio. Gold foil is ha d g ou d i to a i e paste to ake hathkari, a ki d of gold pai t that is used i i iatu e pai i g. Va ious g ades of warak a e a aila le i the a ket. I il e t o a ieies of warak a e a aila le the i st is food g ade a d is ade of pu e sil e, the se o d ote used fo o a e taio of fu itu e o a hite tu al ele e ts is ade of % sil e a d % alu i u. This is ge e all slightl thi ke tha food g ade warak. Pu e Gold warak is ge e all ade out of a at gold. Due to the e t e el high ost of gold, pu e a ak is ote ade to o de. I this ase gold a s of g ea h a e ought the usto e a d the o e see the p o ess of pou di g to e su e that o gold is lost. A lo ost a iet of gold a ak is also a aila le i the a ket o tai i g o l % gold a d % ass this is p i a il used fo la ge a hite tu al a d o a e taio pu poses. The p i e of warak lu tuates o a dail asis ith the lu tuaio s i the p i e of ullio i the i te aio al t ade a ket Gold warak is o e o o l used i usta o k tha sil e a ak. Usi g il e a ak is ot pa t of the t adiio al olou a d desig epe toi e of the usta a isa. Gold 46 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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is p efe ed o e il e a ak as il e a ak ta ishes a d e o e la k o e i e. The appli aio of a ate p oof la ue o e the sil e a ak la ue slo s do the o idaio p o ess a d akes sil e suita le fo use. Process of Making Waraq.... Gold a d il e a e a aila le i g a s. The etal a is d a i to a i e a d the i e is late ed to fo a st ip a out ide. The st ip is ut i to a e ual pie es a out the size of a us i ket ide a d lo g. The pie es of gold o sil e a e pla ed at the e te of a sheet of pa h e t a d the sheets a e pla ed o e atop ea h othe. T adiio all the pie es e e pla ed et ee sheets of i e leathe, ho e e due to eligious o e s i the e e t past the leathe has ee epla ed ith sheets of i po ted pape. The u dle of sheets a d sil e pie es a e pla ed i side a leathe pou h. The leathe pou h is pla ed o a pie e of s ooth sto e a d eate ith a ha e. The pou h is otated a d o ed o sta tl so that the etal pie e has a o siste t thi k ess. Beai g sil e warak takes et ee to hou s. Gold warak eeds to e eate fo hou s. Ate the sheet has the e ui ed thi k ess, the u dle is e o ed f o the leathe pou h. The edges of the warak a e t i ed a d the sheets ut to size. The e ess etal is olle ted fo futu e use. The warak is t a sfe ed to sheets of ute Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 53

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pape usi g a k ife k o as a falwa. Du i g the t a sfe p o ess a s all, thi leathe pie e k o as bandi is ied to the ip of i de i ge, this help i the t a sfe of the sil e o gold warak a d p e e ts the warak f o si ki g to the ski. The t a sfe is a e dii ult p o ess as the warak leaf is so thi it gets lo a a eadth a d the t a sfe has to e do e hile the eadth is held. The pape s o tai i g the sil e o gold leaf is folded i half fo safet. 58 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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Making of leather containers The ase of the a t is the a el hide. A odel of the leathe o tai e shape to e ade is ade i ood. The oode odel is ut i half a d oated ith a elease age t su h as oil o pai t. Usi g la a d Plaste of Pa is a t o pa t ould is ade of the o tai e shape. The ould is oated ith a elease age t a d a i tu e of Plaste of Pa is %, ulta i iti %, a d baloo rait % is pou ed i to it. Ate the i tu e sets it is e o ed f o the ould, this is used as a i e fo fo i g the leathe shape. The ould a e used to eate uliple pie es of the sa e desig. The i e eated is used the dabkar - leathe a isa as a ould to eate the leathe shape o e. The dabkar leathe a isa p o u es u t eated a d a a el leathe di e tl f o the a el o e s o the atu al death of a a el. The hai is pealed of f o the a el ski usi g a rampi. The leathe is ade i to s ooth sheets usi g a paai. The leathe is ski ed f o oth sides ill it e o es of a u ifo thi k ess. Meethi seeds a e g ou d ha d a d i ed ith ate to fo a paste. This paste is applied o the leathe a d Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 61

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it is pla ed i the su to u e it. The paste eeds to e ade f esh e e da as it gets spoilt e easil. Ate the leathe has ee u ed, it is ut i shape a o di g to the shape of the i al o je t to e ade. The leathe is fo ed a ou d the plaste a d sa d shape usi g the eethi seed paste. I the a eas he e the leathe o e laps, oth la e s of leathe a e peeled to ake the thi e so that the i al shape has a o siste t leathe thi k ess. The shape ade is d ied ill it ha de s. The leathe o tai e is ha ded o e the da ka to the usta a isa. The usta a isa ge tl hits the leathe o tai e illed ith the plaste a d sa d ould. This auses the sa d ould to u le. The oke pie es of the plaste a e e o ed f o the oth of the o tai e. This is do e ill the o tai e is o pletel e pt a d o l the ha de ed leathe shell e ai s. 66 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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Wood Based Usta kaam Besides leathe usta o k is o o l do e toda o ood, the a isa gets the o je t to e de o ated su h as a photo f a e o i o f a e ade a a pe te i oode oa d. Layi g the pater The usta a isa has a olle io of t adiio al pate s that a e a pa t of thei sta da d epe toi e. These desig s a e d a o gate a pape a d the i holes a e ade alo g the outli es of the desig s. The hose pate is pla ed o the leathe o tai e o oode oa d a d a loth pou h o tai i g halk po de is u ed agai st it. The po de goes th ough the s all holes i the pape a d lea es a i p essio of the outli e o the ase. The pate is the outli ed ith hite pai t. Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 69

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Mi oi Work T adiio all the Usta A isa s used a i tu e alled i oi. This is ade po de i g old e a i ate pots ghadas i to a i e sa d a d i i g it ith % saresh glue, % neela tota a poiso, % babul ka gond a glue a d a litle ate. This fo s a thi k ate ased paste that o d i g e o es ha d. The i oi i tu e is pai ted o to the aised po io of the desig ith a pai t ush. It d ies to fo a pate ed elief o the su fa e of the leathe essel. The aised i oi pate is o e ed ith hite pai t. Toda i stead of usi g the i oi i tu e a paste is ade i i g togethe o e iall a aila le hite p i e ith hite e a el pai t a d halk po de. This is easie to ake, use easil a aila le a ate ials a d is ot afe ted oistu e o i se ts. This i tu e is pai ted o to the pate d a to eate aised po io s he e e ui ed i stead of the i oi i tu e. 74 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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The Process of Naqqashi The e i e a ea he e the usta o k is to o e is pai ted o e ith hite e a el pai t. Mi i g ello e a el pai t, li seed oil a d lea a ish akes a i tu e alled bat. This is pai ted o e the a eas he e the gold foil is to e put. A hou ate the pai i g of the ase su fa e he the i tu e has pa iall d ied the a ak is applied to the su fa e. A sheet of warak alo g ith a ki g pape is pla ed o the si k su fa e, warak side do. The sheet is p essed do ge tl ith the i ge s, p essi g the warak i to the o tou s fo ed the pate. Ate the warak adhe es to the bat i tu e the a ki g sheet is ge tl lited of lea i g the warak o the o je t. A gaps i the gold su fa e a e illed pasi g s all pie es of warak i the sa e a e. Ate the warak a d bat i tu e ha e o pletel d ied the outli es of the pate s a e t a ed ith la k pai t. The a kg ou d a eas a e illed i ith a ist oil pai ts. The olou s ost o o l used a e ed, g ee da k lue a d la k. Ea lie the a isa used to ake his o pai ts usi g atu al i e als, this is o lo ge do e due to the dii ult a d e pe se. Ate the olou s ha e d ied the e i e su fa e is o e ed ith a la e of a ish, to gi e it shi e. Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 79

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Curre t Situaio Swot Analysis Strength E lusi it ; Usta o u it is esidi g o l i Bika e si e ages a d o i ui g the at. Ve old a t that is sill p ese t; ea old a t The a t has ee used o all ost all fo s of ate ials; ood, sto e, leathe et a d has the pote ial to e used i iad fo s et o. Weakness Ve fe people a e let that o i ue the o k. The asso iated o u it of Da ga s ho ake dholaks is also de li i g as o l o e pe so is let. The a t of Usta is ot e ell k o a d app e iated like a othe a ts of Rajastha No a a e ess a out the s he es C ats e ha e to appl app oa h to get Opportunity Ve fe people a e sill doi g thei a esto al o k The hole o u it li es togethe It a e di e siied; due to the le i ilit of the a t itself a a ds o othe go e e t s he e Threats La guishi g You ge ge e aio is ot i te ested i the at The ats e a t to sell di e tl athe tha se di g thei p odu ts to e po iu o othe et o ks 82 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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Infrastructure The e i e usta o u it li es togethe the e e pla ed i Bika e a d o that a ea is k o as usto ka ohalla. Although the hole o u it li es togethe ea h fa il o ks sepa atel. The a age thei usi esses i depe de tl ithi thei fa ilies. The e is o luste s he e applied he e. All theusta a ists ha e a ai st ea p ofessio alo g hi h the a o thei a esto al Usta a t. o e a e o ki g i go e e t se i es, so e ha e take othe ki ds of usi esses a d a of the a e i p ofessio al jo ields like la, tea hi g et. The e has ee o i te e io f o the Go e e t s side. The p i ess iddhi Ku a i of Bika e has though o ked ith the a isa s a fe i es. O e she took o e o t o ats e to Mu ai fo de o st aio s a d o kshop. i e the the e has ee o su h o kshops held a d ostl the ats e pu sue the usi ess i depe de tl. E e fa il has its o o ki g apa iies; so e ha e o kshops othe tha ho e hile a o k f o ho e. The e a e o o o fa ilit e t e a d o a ate ial a ks. O e of the ats e has a shop i a ket f o he e he sells his p odu t alo g ith his othe usi ess of Ca u e plates. Du i g the isit a of the a isa s ha e ee out of to to a ious pla es fo o k o uildi g like hotels, ho es et. With dis ussio ith the fa ilies of ats e it as fou d that ost of the Usta a ists a e o ki g o the uildi gs a d the e a e o l fe a isa s ho a e a tuall o ki g o the a el hide ski. 84 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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Government Schemes A o di g to the ats e the e has ee o isit f o the go e e t oi ials ega di g a issues. The a e ot saisied ith the go e e t poli ies a d ha e ot a ailed a of these o e of the easo s ei g less a a e ess. O e of the a isa s o e has applied fo the Naio al A a d ut ould ot get it. He easo ed out the hole s ste is o upt a d o e has to gi e i es to get the a a ds. o the do t t fo a go e e t elated s he es. The ats e said o e as sa io ed the go e e t ut it e e ea hed the a d the o l hea d a out it he the s a dal as e posed i the e s. The also o plai ed that the e a e so a p o le s hile illi g the fo s; the ha e to gi e a p oof of thei skills at e e le el a d the e is too u h of pape o k that takes a lot of i e a d e e g. The ould p efe doi g thei o k athe tha spe di g i e i illi g fo s. Lo al Orga isaio s The e as o k o ledge of a NGO s ho o k ith the a isa s losel o p o ide usi ess. Most of the a isa s a e i to a hite tu al gesso o k hile e fe o l - 1 a e sill eai g Gesso o k o a el hide. Desig, olour palete a d produ t issues The desig s a e o elai el old fashio ed a d eed to 1 Refe e e as gi e the ats e Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 87

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e gi e a o te po a look. Most of the p odu t a ge o i ues to e ases, lask ade of a el ski, oode o a e ted f a es, la p shades a d also eed a o te po a t ist o a u ge t asis. The de a d fo the p odu t is sill the e ut e lo thus aki g the a isa s shit to othe o k, ith ha dl fe people doi g the a el ski pai i g. Of fa ilies of Usta o u it o l - fa ilies a e sill doi g the a el ski o k hi h as also o i ed the dapga ho akes the ould fo the Usta s. The e a e o appoi ted o hi ed desig e s as the desig i g is do e the o u it people the sel es. The e has ee o desig i te e io aid gi e the go e e t. Market The o je ts ade toda a e ostl de o ai e o je ts a d git ite s. The p i e a ge of p odu t idel a ies depe di g upo the ki d of o k do e. Mi i u a ge ight sta t f o /- to upto a fe thousa ds a d a go highe depe di g upo the ualit a d i t i a of o k. As the o u it does ot o k o the luste ased app oa h a d ea h a ist fa il o ks i depe de tl so the ha e dife e t a s of a kei g a d p o oi g thei a t. As of p ese tl the a e ot goi g to a Fai s a d p o oio al elas. The a e also ot a a e of a go e e t s he es. The ha e ot ate ded a t ai i g p og a s. The do ot ha e e t a o k fo e fo 90 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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p o oio al a i iies as e e thi g is ha dled ithi the fa il. About government schemes The a ists a e ot at all happ ith thei situaio ith go e e t. Thei iggest o e is la k of a a e ess a out the a ious poli ies a d s he es that ight e a aila le. The also see to e i hi ited i the a i iies that i ol ed go e e t a d a ted to keep the thi gs u ha ged. The ha e e litle faith i the e isi g s he es. The also i d the appli aio s ste a d pape o k e ui ed i a aili g go e e t s he es e u e so e. Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 95

Re o e daio s Research and Development Resea h a d e pe i e taio is eeded o e a d fo gote ate ials o hi h usta o k a e do e. De elop e t of e ase ate ials ill e pa d the a ge of p odu ts that a e ade usi g the usta te h i ue a d i ease the p odu t epe toi e of the a isa s. Resea h a d de elop e t is also eeded o t eat e t a d p o essi g of the leathe a d p o ess of aki g leathe essels used as a usta o k ase ate ial. This ill help e pa d the p odu ts a aila le fo usta o k a d also de elop this u i ue p o ess as a i depe de t at. Base Material Di ersii aio Usta o k a e do e o a a iet of dife e t su fa es, i ludi g alls, leathe, ood, a le a d glass. Cu e tl usta o k is do e p i a il do e alls, leathe a d ood. The a ge of p odu ts de eloped is a o i s ope. Desig de elop e t of p odu ts usi g a le, glass a d othe suita le ate ials is eeded. Produ t Di ersii aio The p odu ts o o l p odu ed the usta a isa s i lude photo a d i o f a es out of ood, la p shades a d essels out of leathe. P odu t de elop e t to e pa d the a ge of p odu ts p odu ed is e essa. The e is the s ope of p odu i g o es, o ls, o tai e s a d de o ai e o je ts fo the ho e out of ood a d a le. Je el i ludi g a gles, oo hes a d pe da ts a also e de eloped usi g usta o k. The a ge of p odu ts ade usi g oulded a el leathe should e e pa ded. Cu e tl a fe desig s of oulded essels a e ade f o a el hide. The e is a eed to i ease the shapes a d o je ts that a e ade f o this u i ue p o ess. De elop e t is e ui ed i the a ge of p odu ts ade fo the usta o u it as ell as p odu ts that a e ade i depe de tl the leathe a isa a d ot de o ated usi g usta. Design Development The desig s p odu ed the a isa s a e e t adiio al i atu e, the oi es, pate s a d olou palete of the p odu ts a e e si ila to the histo i al desig s fou d i old a hite tu al st u tu es su h as the Ju aga h fo t. Desig de elop e t is e essa to odif a d e pa d the pate s a d oifs used the a isa so that the p odu ts ha e a ide appeal i a apidl ha gi g a ket. A are ess a d Markei g A ajo p o le fa ed usta o k is the la k of a a e ess a d k o ledge a out the at. While the at is fa ous i Bika e a d k o i so e a eas of Rajastha o su e s a d at etaile s i othe pa ts of the ou t do ot k o a d ha e ot see usta o k. A sp eadi g of a a e ess a out the at th ough e hi iio s, at fai s, ad e ise e ts, a d p o oio s is eeded. This e posu e ill i ease the de a d fo usta o k. 96 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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Ma usta a isa s do usta o k o a pa t i e asis a d p a i e othe p ofessio s si ulta eousl. The easo fo this is the la k of o i uous de a d fo usta p odu ts. Ma of the ou ge ge e aio a e ot i te ested i o ki g i a p ofessio i hi h the e is o sta le o k o i o e. Ma kei g a d p o oio i iiai es ill help i ease the de a d fo usta o k a d help p odu e a stead de a d fo p odu ts. Pa i ipaio i Fai s, elas a d e hi iio s ill help idge the gap et ee the a isa s a d o su e s. This ill also at a t the ou ge ge e aio a k to usta o k. Training T ai i g of i te ested ou g a isa s is e ui ed ot o l i te h i ue a d p o ess ut also i e t ep e eu ial skills, t ai i g i a kei g, p odu t de elop e t a d desig de elop e t. Trai i g of leather arisa s T ai i g is e ui ed to tea h i te ested a isa s the at of aki g essels a d o je ts out of a el hide leathe. Cu e tl o l o e fa il i Bika e has the skills a d k o ledge of ho to ake essels out of a el hide. Without t ai i g of e a isa s this p o ess ill e lost. Awards The a ists a e e elle t a d eed e og iio fo thei o k Government Schemes A isa a ds, i su a e et a e ii al eeds. I itaio to elas a d e hi iio s. Desig de elop e t, p odu t de elop e t a e u ge tl e ui ed as is a kei g a d p o oio help. 104 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

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Arisa Co ta t List Aj al Hussai Usta Usta A ist - O e of the pe so ho is o ki g ith a el hide ski. Usta Golde A ts hop No- Nea Lakha si House Behi d Rail a taio Mo ile: Rajku a Pa a Caste-Dapga Wo ks o a el ski a d ake the i iial st u tu e of usta otles. Ra pu a Basi Gali o.- Lalga h, Bika e Mo ile:, Research Methodology Diag osi Study o La guishi g Crat leadi g to spe ii re o e daio s for its safeguarding Srtu tured a d No -Stru tured Quesio aire The a e i hi h the assess e t as o du ted as ith a st u tu ed a d o -st u tu ed uesio ai e that suited the e ui e e t/u i ue ess of o te t a d pla e spe ii issues of ea h la guishi g at. This te plate allo ed fo a a al sis ithi the o te t a d eeds of ea h la guishi g at ithi the o e all o je i es. The u st u tu ed uesio s adopted is oad, lea l a d p es ipi e to allo the aptu i g of a pi tu e of a at that is i u ge t eed of safegua di g o othe ise. The lo g list of ope e ded uesio s/a eas to e ta kled ill e o : Terms of Reference Ashu a Ta le ala Caste- Dapga Deals i usi al i st u e t like dhol a d agada. Ja ed Ah ed. Usta A ist Usta ka ohalla Mo ile:.... To ide if the u e of at pe so s, thei a es, a d add ess To stud the p o le fa ed the a isa s i di iduall a d the g oup as a hole, i p a i i g the at. To stud the i te est of the a isa s i o i ui g the at t adiio To stud the ai otle e ks a d the dii ult a eas 112 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

.. hi h a a isa s e ou te s i p a i i g the at To stud a d gathe i fo aio hethe the at la guishi g is also p a i ed i the i i it of the a ea o outside it To stud a d a al ze e ui ed i te e io of the Go e e t iz. a iz. dife e t s he e u de i ple e taio fo de elop e t of the ha di ats se to. Cli ate espe iall its i pa t of p odu io les, a aila ilit of esou es, o o sales T a spo t li ks/a essi ilit of luste iz. oad, ail a et Nea est us staio, ailhead, f e ue of ehi les Fa iliies a aila le i a ea ou ie, postal se i es, edi al se i e, sto es he e ate ials e ui ed a e a aila le, othe sou es, etail e ues. To stud a d suggest easu e of e i al of the la guishi g at e o d the a it of Go t. s he es. Documentation Template A out the rat e tre PART I A ea a e Cluste size Map Topog aph (especially presence of local water bodies) Geog aph pa i ula l to u de sta d p o le s elai g to i f ast u tu e, the p o isio of se i es, isolaio f o a kets E i o e tal o diio s i pa i ula, a e the e egai e i pa ts f o the efe t of li ate ha ge, fo i sta e, o e egula d oughts, a d does this afe t the luste? Ge de Ho is the o k a i it di ided et ee the ge de s. A e the a i iies i te - ha gea le? O a e the e ge de o, hi h est i t this, does this afe t p odu io? If o e a e p odu e s, hat a e thei do esi a a ge e ts Age: Is a i it / ole also depe da t o age of o ke? Probe Histo - Ho as the at i iiated i this egio? B ho? At hat i e? Fo e.g. the Mughal i iatu e pai i g t adiio al as fo all i iiated E pe o Hu a u ho o his etu f o e ile i Pe sia, ought ith hi 2 aste s f o the Pe sia ou t. Ea l Mughal i iatu es the efo e sha e a ha a te isi s as well as content of Persian miniatures and it was not u il the eig of Ak a, ho a i el e ou aged the inclusion of regional elements that a truly Mughal st le as de eloped What pat o age did the at e jo i the past (if any) What a t/ a hite tu al/ pe fo i g a ts t adiio s Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 113

e ist lo all? Ha e a of these i lue es the at i a espe t? Do the sha e a oifs, s olis, itual usage? Does the pate o desig ep ese t status, age, ge de, o u it et? If so, ide if the desig, a d its ea i g. Is it p edo i a tl a at luste? What othe o upaio s e ist i the a ea? A e these li ked i a a to the at? Fo e.g. the la a e t adiio of Eikopaka e ists only because tribals journeying to the South carrying lac to be sold to the jewellers of Tamil Nadu used to pause at this lo aio a d ould a te so e of thei product in exchange for food) Is the t adiio o al? Do atspeople ha e a ess to do u e taio of thei o t adiio s? Does do u e taio e ist if es hose ha ds is it i? Nu e of p a i i g a ists/ households O iousl, a census like mapping is not possible but it would e e helpful if e ould get a se se of ho a p a iio e s e ist e e if the u e s a e e e esi ates haza ded the atspe so s PART II A e the a DCH e t es o othe asso iated go e e t o se i-go e e t i situio s i the egio eg MPH N o Rajastha tate O ga isaio? A e the atspe so s o ki g ith/fo a NGO i the egio? Whi h NGOs/ HGs/ oope ai es a e a i e i the a ea? Ho fa is the ea est go e e t suppo t i situio? Whi h NGOs a e a i e i this a ea? This is ii al as the ould e lo g te o ito i g pa t e s Ho f e ue tl do oi e s f o go e e t suppo t i situio s isit? P o e I o de to assess a d u de sta d the lo al situaio, please p o ide a ief WOT a al sis a out the st e gths; eak esses, a d th eats to the luste. About the tools What tools a e used? Whe e a e the sou ed f o? Ho u h do the ost? ( Do keep an eye out for i o aio s ade the atspeople su h as the i le pu p ope ated d e sp a e i e ted a atspe so i Ku hh to fa ilitate e e stai i g of large bolts of fabric) If the a e ade the atspe so s the sel es, ho is this do e? What a e the alled lo all please use e a ula te s a d i lude t a slaio s fo sa e I lude all tools used like d e pots, p i i g eds, ta les et i ase of p i i g. pe if ate ials, p i es, easu e e t, f e ue of pu hase Quesio a ess to go e e t fu ds/s he es fo pu hase of tools/d e ats et 114 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

About the raw materials What is the ase ate ial used? Does it dife fo dife e t p odu ts Whe e a e the sou ed f o? B ho? Ho u h do the ost? A e a ate ials eadil a aila le? If ot, hat a e the halle ges fa ed i a essi g the ate ial? I hat ua it is it pu hased. What a e the i i u s Ho a e ate ials sto ed? If the ate ial is p odu ed lo all, hi h o u it p odu es it? Ha e the e ee a ha ges i the ate ial used? Whe e as it sou ed f o ea lie What p o pted the ha ge? Does a ket de a d fo heape p odu ts esult i su situio ith heape a ate ials? Ho has it i pa ted the fo /st le/ p odu t? Ca a ate ials e pu hased o edit? If es f o ho a d at hat i te est ate? Is the e a olle i e p o u e e t of ate ials o is it do e i di iduall? I ase of halle ges, hat do the ats e the sel es e o e d to i p o e the situaio? About the process Note the e i e p odu io p o ess, step step, ith a li e de o st aio, ii g do a a io s, a d, o e pla aio s, i ludi g i e f a es fo ea h step. Des i e i detail the p o ess follo ed i step- step a e ith photog aphs fo ea h stage. Des i e the p i a o k a ea a d p epa aio s, alo g ith the a ou t of i e take i ea h step. Note the desi ed output of ea h step o siste / olou /te tu e/ olu e; a d a i g sig s that the p o ess is goi g o g. At ea h stage, oss he k the se ue es of the p odu io p o ess. A e the e a spe ii stages i the te h i ue o o i aio s of te h i ues that dei ii el ha a te ise this pa i ula t adiio? What spe ial skills a e e ui ed to ake the p odu t? Does e e o e i the luste possess the skills a d e pe ise fo aki g it? Ha e the e ee a i o aio s i te h i ue? Des i e. What a e the astes asso iated ith the p o ess? Ho a e the disposed of? Ha e a alue addiio s ee ade to the p odu t? Who ha e the t adiio al desig s, oifs/la outs ha ged? Is the aste atspe so espo si le? A e desig s skills passed o pa i ula o u it Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 115

e e s? Note, that this a e i fo al, fo e a ple, th ough o al t adiio s. What is the t adiio al o a ula fo desig s please gi e lo al a es? Whi h is the oldest k o desig? What desig s a e asso iated ith ituals? A e desig s eadil adapted? What desig s a e fa ou ed o? Who i t odu ed the? About infrastructure Does the luste ha e ele t i it? Fo ho a hou s i the da? If ot, h is ele t i it ot a aila le? A e the e alte ai e opio s fo po e, if so, hat a e the? Do the ha e ge e ato s? What a out ate suppl? Taala s/ta ks/ ate sou e I ase of d ei g te iles, he e a e the ashed, d ed, d ied? E iste e of health a d safet sta da ds a d easu es. If o e, e ist a e the e ui ed? (For e.g. a e the o kshops ell illu i ated? Ask the a out thei health; list a health p o le s, alo g ith s pto s. List pote ial he i al, to i, ele t i al, heat, oise, a d, o e go o i haza ds. A e thei a health e t es ea? E o-f ie dl te h i ues o ate ials fo t eai g a ate ial, at p o ess, a d/o disposal of astes/ -p odu ts Whe e do the o ke s li e? If i a housi g- u - o k shed please des i e. I lude i fo aio o toilets. If the li e a a f o the o kshop a ea, ho do the o ute to o k a d ho lo g does it take to o ute? Is the e a o pute, ith a ess to i te et I fo aio Co u i aio Te h olog ICT a aila le? A e the e the k o ledge a d e pe ise to use o pute s? If so, is the e a e ail add ess fo the luste, ith a o i ated pe so ho has the skills to e ei e a d se d e ails? Do the ha e a Co o Fa ilit Ce t e? If es get all details Do the hild e go to s hool? Is the e a sho oo he e isito s o lie ts a see the te iles p odu ed? pe if e ui e e ts fo the luste to i p o e ualit of life A out the desig, olour palete a d produ t ra ge What e e the t adiio al p odu ts ade ith this at? Does the p odu t a ge ei g eated toda dife? If so, i hat a? What has aused these ha ges? 116 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

Who as the usto e fo the t adiio al p odu t? A e the a spe ii p i ts, olou s, oifs asso iated ith the o u it, i othe o ds, its u i ue desig t adiio s? Des i e oifs, oth t adiio al a d o t adiio al, a st a t, a d igu ai e et. Do the ha e a do u e taio? O is e e thi g o al? What is the s olis asso iated ith the oifs used? We e the p odu ts p odu ed/ used o spe ii o asio s su h as eddi gs, deaths, ituals, fesi als et? Ha e these ee epu posed ith ha ges i the a kets ate ed to? Who is the usto e fo the u e t p odu t? Ho did the atspe so ea h this e a ket seg e t? Do the atspe so s p odu e a p odu ts fo thei o / lo al use? P o ide a list of p odu ts, alo g ith photog aphs a d des ipio s i ludi g te tu e, ualit, feel, olou, p i e, look, sizes. P o e p i es Is the e a p odu t de elop e t le that the luste follo s? Does the luste a i el desig e p odu ts? Who desig s the p odu ts? A e desig e s hi ed? A e a ists ope to o ki g ith desig e s? Is the e a ualit he k? What a e the e h a ks used the luste fo easu i g ualit? Is the p odu t desig ed ith a a e ess fo e i o e tal o e s, hu a safet, health, o fo t, a d p odu t pe fo a e? Do p odu ts o tai i fo aio o the ate ial o te t of the p odu t alo g ith a e i st u io s? Do p odu ts ha e a p odu t ide ii aio s ste that is si ple a d eas to u de sta d? What is disi t a out the p odu t? What is its U i ue elli g P oposiio U P? P o e desig de elop e t i te e io Go t a d othe s Is the e a luste desig e appoi ted? If es, p o e A out produ io What is the le of p odu io? Fo i sta e, is it seaso al? Ho has this ha ged f o the ethod of o igi al p odu io, if at all? Whe e does p odu io take pla e? I the housi g u o k shed, i a ka kha a, at a Co o Fa ilit Ce t e/ at the Coop? pe if Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 117

Is ea h step of the p odu io o pleted i o e e t al lo aio, o a e the e uliple lo aio s? Des i e the a ist s o kpla e. Des i e the ge e al o diio s. What is the p odu io apa it of a luste / atspe so / ka kha a? What is o side ed a la ge o de? What is the i i u o de ua it to e p odu ed fo the o de to e e o o i all ia le? What is the total ua it of p odu io i a ea? What is the p oit a gi? Ho u h of this is ei ested i the usi ess? Ca o siste i ualit of output e assu ed, espe iall if la ge p odu io o de s a e e ei ed? A e the e te h ologi al i te e io s that ould e do e i p o e p odu i it? This ould take pla e at a stage of the p odu io p o ess. Does the o u it fa e o peiio f o the o ga ized/ ass p odu io a ufa tu i g e t es? Ho has this i pa ted thei usi ess? Has a Go e e t s he e helped to i p o e p odu io? A t ai i g p og a s ee o ga ized to i p o e p odu io? A out the ratsperso s To de elop a u de sta di g of the halle ges, p o le s, o st ai ts a d pa a ete s ithi hi h the atspe so s ope ate a sele io of the should e i te ie ed. Is the at the t adiio al o upaio of the atspe so s fa il o is it a elai el e l a ui ed skill? If e, he as this o upaio take up a d h? If it as the t adiio al o upaio, t a e the fa il histo th ough a t ee a d e plo e a thi al/ folklo e o e ts that e plai thei a i al/setle e t i the egio o thei i iiaio i to the at. A e the li ked to si ila at o u iies i othe pa ts of the ou t? Ha e a t ai ed ats e / o u it e e s let thei t adiio? Reaso h What a e so e of the p o le s that the fa e hi h i pa ts the su i al of the at, fo i sta e, a ess to a kets, o a ate ials, et? What a e the easo s fo the la guishi g at t adiio s, a d su esses a d failu es i e i al? T ai i g Ho did the i di idual lea the t ade? Who did the app e i e ith? Ho lo g did the p o ess take? A e the e e ui e e ts fo skill le els, t ai i g, a d, o de elop e t? Pe so al uesio s What are their hopes and aspi aio s? Do the pa i o e ta? Do they own o ile pho es? Do the ha e i su a e? What is thei le el of edu aio? Do the ha e a k 118 Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam

a ou ts? Ho a e e s i thei fa il? Ho a a e ea i g e e s? Ho a a e e plo ed i the sa e p ofessio? What a e so e of the dii ulies that ou fa e i the illage? Ca i p o e e ts, a d o, the e i al of ats help to sol e a of these p o le s? La ou elated a issue Who is hi ed? Ho is sele io u de take? Ho a o -a ists su h as the women and children of the household are i ol ed i su sidia aspe ts of the p o ess? Is the e a hie a h a o gst the o ke s i the luste? What is this ased o? Does the o ga izaio al st u tu e mimic indigenous systems) o ial st u tu e (Does gender play a role in the at? Ho does aste featu e i the hie a h of the o kshop? What aste a e the o e s a d the o ke s? Is it a di e se populaio /g oup that pa takes i the at a i iies? T adiio all, hat aste did the o e s a d o ke s elo g to? Has the e ee a ha ge i the sa e? What is the ha ge due to? Wages What a e the o ki g hou s? Ho a da s a eek a e the o ke s e pe ted to o e to o k/ o the o k? Ho a holida s? What happe s i the e e t a o ke falls ill? What ages a e paid to the a ious hie a hies of o ke s? What a e the a e age o thl ea i gs of a atspe so? Does this i ease ith se io it, a d a e the e oppo tu iies fo i o e g o th? A e the su sidia o ke s su h as the o e a d hild e of the household gi e a e u e aio? Do the e ei e dail / eekl / o thl ages? A e ages e ei ed i ash? Is the e a i e i e s ste? T adiio a d e italizaio. (What are the rituals and e e o ies asso iated ith the aki g of the at p odu t? What, if a, a e e essa ituals he p epa i g the p odu t? Who o du ts the itual, ho pa i ipates, a d hat is the ea i g? What a e the ea i gs of the ituals, a d a e these ituals laid out i te ts? A e the ituals i fo al o ela o ate? A e the passed o e all, as a i ta gi le ultu al e p essio, o a e the laid out i te ts? Des i e, a d if possi le, e o d the itual. Ha e a atspeople i thei luste e ei ed a a ds? F o ho a d he? If Yes, p o e fu the - i ludi g if it has helped the o u it i Pethapu e fou d that it had di ided the o u it If o, p o e A out the arket for the rat Who does the at ate s to? Lo al/ do esi / i te aio al a kets o etail/ e po t/ o issio work) If the a ket fo the ats is a o i aio of a ious seg e ts, a e dife e t te h i ues/st les/p odu ts fa ou ed spe ii seg e ts? List the top selli g p odu ts Ho a e the a ious seg e ts ea hed the atspe so s lo al haats, azaa s, elas, state ha di ats e t es, DCH, t ade fai s et? Languishing Crafts: Gheso Painting on Camel Leather / Usta Kaam 119