" F-Susy: Methods and Instruments based on the chemical safety Standards for the Assessment of Process and Product in Textile.

Transcription

1 Friday, 2 March 2018 " F-Susy: Methods and Instruments based on the chemical safety Standards for the Assessment of Process and Product in Textile. Stefania Bianchi, Paolo Gronchi, Chemistry, Materials and Engineering Chemistry dept.

2 POR FESR Bando Smart Fashion and Design Digital Open Platform for a Sustainable Fashion System Leader: Partners: Politecnico di Milano- CMIC dept. Blumine srl Besani srl Maglificio Ripa S.p.A Tessitura Attilio Imperiali Spa NEKTE srl Fashion Sustainable System 2 2/23

3 Scopes in which our work fits. The scientific network of the industrial chemistry; Specific and detailed information on use of chemicals; Relationships of the chemicals to the environment and man; Environmental impact of an industrial activity. 3 3/23

4 Reasons of the attention to the textile industry chain i) general standards concerning the definitions of dangerous substances to be eliminated (proliferation of RSL specifications, Camera della Moda - "Guidelines" has only begun to lay the foundations for the solution of the problem); ii) the frequent use of different names for the same substances is today a serious problem for companies; iii) the existing online catalogs are mainly oriented to the academic environment; iv) complexity of textile chemistry with horizontal interaction among many scientific disciplines; v) high process innovation and product. 4 4/23

5 Aim (main) Transparent sharing of information standardized to scientific standards on the characteristics of sustainability; on the specifications of the many RSL present in the supply chain. Free information available for own evaluation Work plan The proposed initiative involves - the development of a service by the Politecnico di Milano and service companies - the research/development on/of process innovations by the industrial partner. 5 5/23

6 Relevant matters in this work a) identification of the chemicals used or produced in the textile industry b) rooting of information in the culture of chemistry, work hygiene, industrial chemistry; c) collaboration between universities, research centers, laboratories and the world of work (mutual control); 6 6/23

7 Workpackage 1 It will require: to identify the products with specific classes of hazardous substances (but permitted by law such as: APEO, PFC, Heavy metals, p-chloroanilines and other anilines, perchlorethylene and others), this will involve the implementation of an extensive chemical analysis plan on raw materials, auxiliaries and dyes; selection of alternative solutions allowing the elimination of hazardous chemicals; experimentation of alternative materials / processes to verify their technical and functional performance and to evaluate their effective industrial applicability on the basis of market quality standards. 7 7/23

8 Workpackage 2 It will require: Development, testing and validation in an industrial environment of an online digital platform accessible to users enabled for the self-assessment of the conformity of processes and products to the chemical safety standards required by the RSL / M-RSL imposed by the fashion brands and the management and sharing information with suppliers and customers. The on-line platform will allow to compare the RSL / MRSL with the results of the chemical analyzes carried out by the companies. The results of the comparisons can be made available to customers to whom access will be authorized. From the very beginning, the digital platform will be powered by the analyzes. 8 8/23

9 Workpackage 3 Public online digital platform for: the unification of technical and scientific information on hazardous chemicals; the cataloging of substances potentially substitutive of dangerous ones, indexed for dangerous substance, functionality and scope of use; the publication by the companies of the supply chain of the information related to chemical analyzes carried out on products and processes. 9 9/23

10 Faced problems How to organize dangerous substances? How to classify them as effectively as possible? How to make laboratory reports more transparent? How to move in the platform? Etc Possible users: brands, suppliers, NGOs, public administration, private citizens... 10/23

11 All people Implementation Filling from the textile chain Filled Repository (databank) USE Maintenance and control 11/23

12 Custom classes (e.g. APEOs) Name and synonyms Industrial function Chemistry CAS number Substance identification Analytical methods Toxicity Anti-pollution systems Substitutions Lab testings Private MRSL Laws and normatives 12/23

13 Custom 1. APEOs 2. Phtalates 3. Flame Retardants 4. Amines Associated with Azo Dyes 5. Other Dyes 6. Organotin Compounds 7. Chlorobenzenes & Chlorotoluenes 8. Halogenated Solvents 9. VOCs & other solvents 10. Chlorophenols 11. SCCP & Chlorinated Paraffins 12. Metals 13. Glycols 14. N-nitrosamines 15. PAHs 16. Pesticides & biocides 17. Dioxins & Furans 18. PFCs 19. Formaldehyde 20. Others Industrial function 1. Detergents & Surfactants 2. Plasticisers 3. Flame Retardants 4. Dyes & Pigments 5. Solvents 6. Pesticides & Biocides 7. UV-Stabilisers 8. Catalysers 9. Lubricants 10. Stain, Oil and Water Repellants 11. Anti-oxidants 12. Dye Carriers 13. Polymer-related Substances 14. Others Chemical functionality 1. Azo compounds 2. Nitro compounds 3. Amines and amides 4. Nitriles 5. Esters, ethers, epoxy and alcohols 6. Organic acids and salts 7. Chetons and aldehydes 8. Isocyanates 9. Hydrocarbons 10. Aromatic compounds 11. Heterocyclic compounds 12. Halogenated compounds 13. Organometallic compounds 14. Metals, semi-metals and metal oxides 15. Inorganic acids and salts 16. Phosphor compounds 17. Sulphur compounds 18. Others 13/23

14 Thanks