Driving Serendipity: the Era of Active Ingredients Discovery. Valentina Sedini Scientific Marketing

Transcription

1 Driving Serendipity: the Era of Active Ingredients Discovery Valentina Sedini Scientific Marketing

2 Active Ingredients Discovery in cosmetics HOW

3 Active Ingredients Discovery: the drug ancestor Historically, the discovery of active ingredients is associated with the pharma procedure of DRUG DISCOVERY Once upon a time.drugs were discovered from TRADITIONAL REMEDIES OR BY SERENDIPITY The beginning of the modern era in pharmacology was assessed by the shift of mindset: SEARCH FOR PURE CHEMICALS, instead of crude extracts The effect of a molecule in the human body is mediated by SPECIFIC INTERACTIONS of the active molecule with biological macromolecules

4 Active Ingredients Discovery: the Haystack o STRUCTURAL DIVERSITY (Animal, vegetal, chemical synthesis) o UNLIMITED QUANTITY o EVOLUTION against challenges o EFFECTIVENESS: pure it s good, concentrated is even better o SAFETY, EFFICACY: mixtures can be troublesome

5 From casualty to reality: driving serendipity IN SILICO TECHNOLOGIES helps modern drug discovery in the identification of valuable hits OPTIMIZATION of those hits to increase the affinity, selectivity (to reduce the potential of side effects), efficacy/potency, metabolic stability (to increase the halflife), and oral bioavailability ACTIVE INGREDIENT DEVELOPMENT begins once a compound that fulfills all of these requirements has been identified

6 Driving activity: the structural importance THINK LIKE A MOLECULE Establish connections with molecular structure REPRESENT MOLECULAR STRUCTURES in a measurable way to assess potential connections to specific activities Visualize THREE-DIMENTIONAL STRUCTURES to simulate, predict and investigate properties ANALYZE THE MOLECULAR COMPOSITION

7 Driving activity: molecular mining To PREDICT MOLECULAR DINAMICS and interactions that may not be evident at first sight Understanding the importance of molecular substructures may lead to ACTIVITY IMPROVEMENTS Help SOLVE PROBLEMS and hint solutions before doing experiments COMPUTER-AIDED DESIGN and understanding of active molecules

8 CLINIQUE SMART SERUM DIOR SNOW DNA REVERSE From Pharma to Cosmetics: molecular trend DR. BRANDT DO NOT AGE LUCAS MEYER PROGELINE BROCHURE CRISTOPHER KANE F/W 2014 LUCAS MEYER ADIPOFILL IN BROCHURE

9 Active Ingredients Discovery in Cosmetics HIGH TECH CUTTING-EDGE PRODUCT CUSTOMIZATION RELIABLE ACTIVITY BIOAVAILABILITY IMPROVEMENT PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY

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11 Molecular lab: the concept HIGH TECH R&D: A brand new highly qualified department MULTI-SKILLED: Perfect mix of chemical, biological and biotechnological expertises SKIN TARGETED INVESTIGATION: Investigation of the interaction of potentially interesting molecules

12 Molecular lab: the reason why SCIENTIFIC RELIABILITY demand for more substantiated ingredients HIGH TECH SKINCARE market is more and more driven by analysis and investigations BESPOKE BEAUTY

13 Molecular lab: the goal Converting scientific know how into High performing active ingredients

14 Molecular lab: methodology PRELIMINARY STUDIES Literature examinations, latest findings in science of new potential active ingredients or already known molecules that may turn to be of cosmetic interest. IN SILICO TEST: Molecular Modelling IN VITRO TEST : define and describe the active ingredient mechanism of action on skin cells. IN VIVO TEST confirm the results previously foreseen by the research on volunteers.

15 Preliminary study: literature investigation Rely on international journals articles to SELECT AND FIND new potential active ingredients. SCREEN FOR POTENTIAL COSMETIC APPLICATIONS among the latest findings in science. Select MAIN THEORETICAL EVIDENCES to attribute a particular function to a less known or newly discovered molecule.

16 In silico test: molecular modeling Molecular modeling represents the scientific field of SIMULATION OF MOLECULAR SYSTEMS. It originated as a TOOL TO VISUALIZE THREE- DIMENTIONAL STRUCTURES and to simulate, predict and analyze the properties and behavior of the molecules at the atomic level.

17 Software In silico test: molecular modeling Similarity Activity 1 step: Structural matches (Molecular database) 2 step: Skin targets identification (similarity to experimental activity)

18 Predicting tests: a common example In vitro Antioxidant Ex vivo Protection against inflammation In vivo Anti-wrinkle/skin rejuvenating

19 Predicting Innovation: benefits PREDICT molecular INTERACTIONS FORESEE ingredient EFFICACY EVALUATE a broader SPECTRUM OF ACTIVITY, investigating new fields of application BETTER FOCUS further in vitro/in vivo TESTS SUBSTANTIATE activity

20 Molecular lab: mission THREE LEVELS OF SERVICE: 1. HIGH TECH MANUFACTURED MOLECULES, characterized, with proven efficacy 2. MOLECULAR ACTIVITY STUDY CUSTOMIZATION, following the specific client s needs MOLECULAR CUSTOMIZATION

21 Driving Serendipity: the Era of Active Ingredients Discovery THANK YOU! Booth P30