Organogels eco-friendly natural smart systems for cosmetic and dermocosmetic

Transcription

1 rganogels eco-friendly natural smart systems for cosmetic and dermocosmetic use Plamen KIRILV Plamen Kirilov, Cosmétopée Thaiti 24 Novembre 2016 Puna auia

2 HSA organogels preparation and physico-chemical characterization preparation concept: Low Molecular-Mass rganic Gelator (LMG) + organic liquid LMG = 12-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) Liquide organique = vegetable oil (almond) HSA self-assembling in soybean oil (confirmed by FTIR Analysis) organogel Microscopy study (organogel: HSA - 15 wt %; almond oil) TEM micrograph ptical Microscopy micrograph 20 µm SEM micrograph P. Kirilov et al., Colloid. Surf. A: Phys Engin Asp,

3 HSA organogels rheological characterization Rheology study determination of phase transition temperatures (Tgel and Tmelt) G and G moduli variation vs. temperature of an organogel (almond oil and 3 wt% of HSA) temperature increasing temperature decreasing SL 100 SL GEL GEL 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 Tmelt 1 e-4 1 e-4 1 e-4 Tgel 1 e temperature ( C) Tmelt melting temperature temperature ( C) Tgel gelation temperature P. Kirilov et al., J. Phys. Chem. B,

4 T ( C) HSA organogels rheological characterization Rheology study determination of phase transition temperatures (Tgel and Tmelt) 70 Gel-sol (Tmelt) and sol-gel (Tgel) phase transition temperatures of almond organogel vs. HSA wt % SL GEL Tgel Tmelt HSA wt % Tmelt and Tgel values increase when the HSA wt % increases Very close Tmelt and Tgel phase transitions good reversibility of the system 4

5 HSA organogels applications: soft-focus effect optical properties of HSA organogels (almond oil; 3 wt % HSA) ptical micrograph of iridescent HSA fibers Soft focus Soft focus Anti-wrinkle organogels by Soft focus effect: - Iridescent organogels - Biodegradable organogels 5

6 HSA organogels applications: soft-focus effect optical properties of HSA organogels Incident light Specular reflection Diffuse reflection Specular transmission Diffuse transmission Skin reflection HSA fiber SKIN 6

7 Aaqueous dispersions of gelled oil particules preparation concept: Step 1 Step 2 LMG (HSA) + mixture of UV filter water-soluble stabilizing agent organogel aqueous dispersion of gelled oil Stearic stabilization using polymer as stabilyzing and dispersing agent: 80% hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol (PVA 80) P. Kirilov et al., J. Microencapsul.,

8 absorbance Aaqueous dispersions of gelled oil particules immobilisation of organic UV filters: Used organic liquid (mixture of UV filters): TEM micrograph N octocrylene (UVB) liquid H 3 C CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 H 700 nm 2,0 avobenzone (17 wt% UVA) powder Absorption UV specta of gelled sun protection particles Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) analysis Mean size (nm) (polydispersity index) 600 (0,22) 1,5 1,0 0,5 Gelled sunscreen particle absorption in the same characteristic wavelengths than the avobenzone and octocrylene molecules 0, wavelength (cm -1 ) Higher absorbance dispersion intensity compared to the emulsion one C. Chaouat et al., J. del CED,

9 T ( C) Aaqueous dispersions of gelled oil particules immobilisation of organic UV filters: Used organic liquid (mixture of UV filters): TEM micrograph N octocrylene (UVB) liquid H 3 C CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 H 700 nm avobenzone (17 wt% UVA) powder Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) analysis Determination of gel-sol phase transions (Tmelt) by rheology 65 Mean size (nm) (polydispersity index) 600 (0,22) 60 SL GEL Tmelt of the sunscreen organogel Tmelt of gelled sunscreen particles Confirmation of the particle gelled state Tmelt in accordance with the thermic effect of the solar radiation HSA weight % P. Kirilov et al., Int. J. Cosm. Sci.,

10 DBS organogels preparation and physico-chemical characterization preparation concept: Low Molecular-Mass rganic Gelator (LMG) + organic liquid DBS self-assembling in soybean oil (confirmed by FTIR Analysis) organogel LMG = 1,3:2,4-Di--benzylidene-D-sorbitol (DBS) Liquide organique = vegetable oil (almond) Microscopy study (organogel: DBS - 15 wt %; almond oil) H H SEM micrographs DBS 10

11 DBS-like derivatives preparation and physicochemical characterization green syhthesis of DBS derivatives: + rganogel picture Sorbitol a-dbs Soybean oil + DBS (1 wt%) Starting aldehyde = SEM micrographs a-dbs b-dbs c-dbs catalyst PTSA* Dowex** PTSA T ( C) Time (sec) Yield (%) * PTSA p-toluenesulfonic acid; ** Dowex 50WX8 resin (particle size: mesh; maximum operating temperature: 150 C S. Rum et al., AMPERE,

12 DBS organogels dermo-cosmetic applications lipstick formulations: Lipsticks with improved physico-chemical properties were obtained using organogel concept (DBS) Lipstick formulations T melt 100% wax 45 C 0.3% DBS, 10% wax (1) 51 C 0.6% DBS, 10% wax (2) > 95 C 0.9% DBS, 10% wax (3) > 95 C 1.2% DBS, 10% wax (4) > 95 C 1.5% DBS, 10% wax (5) > 95 C Benefits of organogel concept: - Reduction of the beeswax weight % - Increasing of the melting temperature (Tmelt) transition - Improving of the hardness and mechanical properties - SPF boosting (data not shown) Formulations P. Kirilov et al., Int. J. Cosm. Sci.,

13 Backscattering (%) TEWL (g m -2 h -1 ) Transmission (%) DBS organogels dermo-cosmetic applications lipstick formulations: Lipsticks with improved skin emollient properties were obtained using organogel concept (DBS + beeswax) without DBS 250 with DBS Formulations Benefits of organogel concept: Analysed tube height (mm) Time (h) -Better skin hydration (increase in the Trans Epidermal Water Loss TEWL) -Increasing of the physical stability of the lipstick formulation -The lipstick ageing showed similar backscaterring and transmission % profiles at 25 C and 60 C (great stability at higher temperature) 13

14 physical stability (ageing): Turbiscan is the reference for stability measurement Fast shelf life study : save time Identification and Quantification of the instabilities Versatile device (multi-applications, multi-products) bjectivity, reproducibility and traceability Key numbers : Instrument world wide 300+ publications 200+ patents 14

15 physical stability (ageing): Theorically Multiple Light Scattering Practically Backscattering and Transmission depends on : d : Particle size Φ : Particle concentration Repeat the scans: if variation Physical destabilization 15

16 physical stability (ageing): Stable homogenous sample Stable sample = no variation of the Turbiscan signal 16

17 physical stability (ageing): Particle Migration- Detection Sedimentation Creaming 17

18 physical stability (ageing): Size Variation - Detection Size variation If Global evolution of the signal Particle Size variation 18

19 physical stability (ageing): Size Variation - Detection Mean Value Kinetics (middle) Mean diameter* 1 np,nf, Φ 2 * Turbiscan Lab Expert / Tower Particle size variation without any Dilution 19

20 physical stability (ageing): TRUE STABILITY MEASUREMENT Look at variations of sample homogeneity, colour, aspect, phase separation Measure the variations of light scattering all over sample height all over sample height Turbiscan does the same measurement than naked eye But just faster, more reliable, information on size and migration No dilution, no stress, real time measurement More. 20

21 microrheology: Diffusion Wave Spectroscopy ptical measurement of particle mobility MICRRHELGY: the best solution for viscoelasticity analysis at rest 21

22 microrheology: Diffusion Wave Spectroscopy ptical measurement of particle mobility MICRRHELGY: the best solution for viscoelasticity analysis at rest 22

23 microrheology: Diffusion Wave Spectroscopy ptical measurement of particle mobility MICRRHELGY: the best solution for viscoelasticity analysis at rest 23

24 microrheology: FILM FRMATIN ANALYSIS VISCELASTIC ANALYSIS IN BULK More. 24

25 rganogels: new ingredients for cosmetic applications Conclusions and outlook: organogel 2 µm DBS HS A 20 µm 20 µm xerogel particules H DBS H aqueous dispersion of gelled oil SUN PRTECTIN 25

26 rganogels: new ingredients for cosmetic applications Māuruuru maita'i Merci pour votre attention! À suivre To be continued Plamen Kirilov, Cosmétopée Thaiti 24 Novembre 2016 Puna auia 26