Determination of Urea and Allantoin in Cosmetics Using the Acclaim Mixed-Mode HILIC Column

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pplication Note 98 Determination of Urea and llantoin in osmetics Using the cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI olumn Introduction Reversed-phase (RP) silica columns (e.g., 8 and 8) are widely used for separating small molecules. However, these columns are unsuitable for retaining and separating highly polar compounds. Some modified RP columns, such as the cclaim Polardvantage (P) column, a type of polar-embedded column, retain some polar compounds. However, chromatographers often need to use a buffer, which usually impairs MS detection and results in insufficient retention of some highly polar compounds. Hydrophilic interaction chromatography (HILI), termed by lpert in 990, is a technique capable of retaining these highly polar compounds with additional benefits, including complementary selectivity compared to RP columns, enhanced sensitivity for MS detection, and simplified sample preparation. However, due to the lowhydrophobicity surfaces associated with traditional HILI columns (i.e., silica-, cyano-, amino-, and diol- phases), small molecules cannot be separated via hydrophobic interaction. Mixed-mode hydrophilic interaction-cationexchange chromatography (HILI-EX) promotes hydrophilic interactions overlaid on ionic interactions with a cation-exchange matrix and this high-performance technique has the potential for peptide separations. 5 The cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI column is a new stationary phase that combines both HILI and RP characteristics. 6 The new phase is based on high purity and spherical silica functionalized with a silyl ligand containing both hydrophilic and hydrophobic functionalities. This packing material can be used in either HILI mode (in high organic conditions) or RP mode (in high aqueous conditions). The optimal balance between the hydrophilic and hydrophobic moieties on the silica surface provides unique chromatographic properties that make this new phase useful for many applications, including determination of hydrophobe distribution and degree of ethoxylation (E number) in a broad variety of ethoxylated surfactants. 6 In this application note, we investigate the chromatographic behavior of highly polar compounds on the cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI column using allantoin and urea as test compounds. We discuss the influence of different sample diluents, and different concentrations and ph values of the buffer in the mobile phases on HILI. fter method optimization, we determined the concentrations of allantoin and urea in cosmetic products.

Equipment UltiMate 3000 HPL system: HPG 3400 pump with SRD 3400 Solvent Rack with degasser T-3000 thermostatted column compartment WPS-3000TSL autosampler VWD-3400 UV-Vis detector hromeleon 6.80 SPb hromatography Workstation nke TDL80- centrifuge, nting Scientific Instrumental Factory, Shanghai, hina 85- magnetic stirrer, Hongpu Instrumental Factory, Minhang, Shanghai, hina PH 40 constant temperature oven, Yiheng Science and Technique Ltd., Shanghai, hina Reagents and Standards Deionized (DI) water from a Milli-Q Gradient 0 (Millipore) cetonitrile (H 3 N), HPL grade, Fisher llantoin, purum, 98%, Fluka Urea, analytical grade, SR, hina n-heptane, analytical grade, SR, hina cetic acid (Hc), analytical grade, SR, hina mmonium acetate, analytical grade, SR, hina Diatomaceous earth, Hyflo Super el, Sigma-ldrich hromatographic onditions olumn: cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI column, 5 µm, 4.6 50 mm (P/N: 066843) Mobile Phase: Premix of 97% H 3 N : 3% H (v/v, using premixed mobile phase yields a more stable base-line at the 00 nm detection wavelength) Flow Rate:.0 ml/min Detection: bsorbance at 00 nm Preparation of Standards Stock Standard Solutions The concentrations of stock standard solutions were 000 mg/l for allantoin and 0,000 mg/l for urea. They were prepared with DI water. Mixed Working Standard Solutions The mixed stock standard solution was diluted with a solution of 90% acetonitrile, 0% DI H (v/v) to prepare the mixed working standard solutions used for calibration. The concentrations of each analyte in the mixed working standard solutions are shown in Table. nalyte Table. oncentration of the Mixed Working Standard Solutions oncentration (mg/l) # # # 3 # 4 # 5 # 6 llantoin 3.5 6.5.5 5.00 50.00 5.0 Urea 5.00 50.00 00.0 00.0 400.0 000 Sample Preparation Two cosmetic products (samples and ) were purchased from a local market. bout 0.5 g of sample and 0.5 g diatomaceous earth were placed into a 50 ml beaker. 0 ml n-heptane was added, and the mixture was stirred for 5 min using a magnetic stirrer. The organic phase was discarded, and the inorganic phase was extracted two more times. The residue was dried completely at 60 º in a constant temperature oven. Three milliliters of water and 7 ml acetonitrile were added to the dried residue, stirred for 3 min, allowed to stand for 0 min, and then the solution layer was moved to a 0 ml centrifuge tube and centrifuged at 3000 rpm for 0 min. The same sample was extracted two more times with water and acetonitrile. The solution layer of all three extracts was moved to a 00 ml glass flask and diluted to the mark with acetonitrile. Prior to injection, the extract was filtered though a 0.45 µm filter. Determination of Urea and llantoin in osmetics Using the cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI olumn

Results and Discussion omparison of the Retention of Highly Polar ompounds on cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI, cclaim 0 8, and cclaim P olumns llantoin and urea (structures shown in Figure ) are compounds with high polarity and therefore are good candidates for HILI. Typical RP silica columns such as the cclaim 0 8 are unable to retain these compounds, as shown by chromatogram in Figure. Reducing the H 3 N to 30% does not result in retention of either compound. These compounds are retained on the cclaim P column (a polar-embedded phase, chromatogram in Figure ) under conditions that should yield the maximum retention of polar compounds (no H 3 N), but resolution is poor. hromatogram of Figure shows that allantoin and urea are well retained and resolved on the cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI column. Influence of Sample Diluent on cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI olumn hromatography s in RP-HPL, sample diluent can strongly influence peak shape and sample solubility during HILI chromatography. Here, three solvents commonly used in HPL, differing in solvent strength in the order H 3 N> H 3 H >water, were used to prepare standard solutions of the polar compounds allantoin and urea. The ideal sample diluent should be 00% H 3 N or as close to initial mobile phase conditions as possible. s shown in Figure 3, the best peak shapes for allantoin and urea are obtained using 00% H 3 N as the sample solvent. However, highly polar analytes often have low solubilities in organic solvents, making some samples difficult to run on a HILI column. lthough 00% water can dissolve polar samples better, it is not suitable for injecting on a HILI column because of the resulting poor peak shape (chromatogram, Figure 3). H N N H llantoin N H NH Figure. Structures of allantoin and urea. 300 mu, 50 0 3 NH NH Urea 5503 olumn: cclaim HILI olumn cclaim 0 8 cclaim P Eluent: : 30% H 3 N-70% H (v/v) : 0 mm KHP 4 (ph.8) : 97% H3N-3% H (v/v) Flow Rate:.0 ml/min Detection: UV at 00 nm -grams: : cclaim HILI : cclaim 0 8 : cclaim P 4 5 6. llantoin (5 ppm). Urea (00 ppm) Figure. hromatograms of allantoin and urea on ) cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI, ) 0 8, and ) P columns. 50 mu 5504 olumn: cclaim HILI olumn (5 µm, 4.6 x 50 mm) Eluent: Premix of 97% H3N and 3% H (v/v) Flow Rate:.0 ml/min Detection: UV at 00 nm with H3N, MeH or H -grams: : Diluted with 00% H : Diluted with 00% MeH : Diluted with 00% H 3 N. llantoin (5 ppm). Urea (00 ppm) 50 0.3.5 3.8 5 6.3 7.5 8.8 0 5505 Figure 3. hromatograms of allantoin and urea diluted with ) water, ) methanol, and ) acetonitrile. pplication Note 98 3

Therefore, the influence of using methanol/water and H 3 N/water diluents with different proportions on peak shapes of allantoin and urea were investigated. Figure 4 shows chromatograms of allantoin and urea using three different methanol/water mixtures as diluents, and none yielded acceptable peak shapes. Using H 3 N/water mixtures as diluents, peak shapes are acceptable at 75% H 3 N and higher (Figure 5). When the proportion of H 3 N increases to 90%, sharp and symmetric peak shapes are observed. Most polar analytes are soluble in 90% H 3 N/0% water. Influence of Mobile Phase uffer on HILI hromatography Phosphate buffers are not recommended due to precipitation in the highly organic mobile phases commonly used in HILI. The buffers usually used with HILI columns are ammonium formate, ammonium acetate, formic acid, and phosphoric acid. We evaluated the influences of the ph value and concentration of an acetic acid-ammonium acetate buffer on HILI chromatography. The ph value of the acetic acidammonium acetate buffer was adjusted by changing the proportion of acetic acid and ammonium acetate. s shown in Figure 6, although the retention time of allantoin 00 mu olumn: cclaim HILI olumn (5 µm, 4.6 x 50 mm) Eluent: Premix of 97% H3N and 3% H (v/v) Flow Rate:.0 ml/min Detection: UV at 00 nm with MeH and H (v/v) -grams: : Diluted with 90% MeH- 0% H : Diluted with 75% MeH- 5% H : Diluted with 50% MeH- 50% H. llantoin (5 ppm). Urea (00 ppm) 5 mu 40 0 3 4 5 6 7 olumn: cclaim HILI olumn (5 µm, 4.6 x 50 mm) Eluent: Premix of 97% H3N and 3% H (v/v) Flow Rate:.0 ml/min Detection: UV at 00 nm with H3N-H (v/v) -grams: : Diluted with 90% H3N- 0% H : Diluted with 75% H 3 N- 5% H : Diluted with 50% H3N- 50% H. llantoin (5 ppm). Urea (00 ppm) Figure 5. hromatograms of allantoin and urea diluted with acetonitrile/water with differening proportions. 00 mu 5507 Figure 6. hromatograms of allantoin and urea when the buffers in mobile phase are at different ph values. olumn: cclaim HILI olumn (5 µm, 4.6 x 50 mm) Eluent: Premix of 97% H3N and 3% Hc/NH 4 c (v/v) buffer with different ph value Flow Rate:.0 ml/min Detection: UV at 00 nm with 97% H3N-3% H (v/v) -grams: : uffer, 0.M Hc, ph.88 : uffer, 0.M Hc/NH4c, : (v/v), ph 4.46 : uffer, 0.M NH 4 c, ph 6.74 0.5.5 3 3.5 4 4.5 5 5.5 6. llantoin (5 ppm). Urea (00 ppm) 5508 0 0 3 4 5 6 7 5506 Figure 4. hromatograms of allantoin and urea diluted with methanol/water with differing proportions. 4 Determination of Urea and llantoin in osmetics Using the cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI olumn

increases and that of urea decreases with increasing buffer ph, their peak shapes are maintained. Figure 7 shows chromatograms of allantoin and urea when the ammonium acetate concentration in the mobile phase changes from 00 to 0 mm (00% H ). Peak shapes are also maintained with changes in the buffer concentration, even in the absence of buffer. However, for some ionic compounds, e.g., benzoate, a buffer in the mobile phase is needed for good peak shape and retention (Figure 8). Reproducibility, Linearity and Detection Limits Prior to sample analysis, we estimated the reproducibility by making seven replicate injections of a mixed standard solution with concentrations of 5 mg/l for allantoin and 00 mg/l for urea. The RSDs for retention time were both 0.000, and the RSDs for peak area were 0.78 for allantoin and 0.379 for urea. alibration linearity for allantoin and urea was investigated by making replicate injections of a mixed standard prepared at six different concentrations. The external standard method was used to calculate the calibration curve and to quantify these compounds in samples. Table shows the data from the calibration as calculated in hromeleon. The single-sided Student s test method was used for estimating method detection limits (MDL). These data are also reported in Table. Table. alibration Data as Reported by hromeleon and MDLs for the Two nalytes nalyte Equation r RSD MDL (mg/l) llantoin = 0.36 c + 0.063 0.9998.6408 0.66 Urea = 0.0 c + 0.0039 0.9990.9740.6 Note: The single-sided Student's test method (at the 99% confidence limit) was used for determining MDL, where the standard deviation (SD) of the peak area of seven injections is multiplied by 3.4 to yield the MDL. 00 E D mu 00.5.5 3.5 4.5 5.5 6 olumn: cclaim HILI olumn (5 µm, 4.6 x 50 mm) Eluent: Premix of 97% H3N and 3% Hc/NH 4 c (v/v) with different concentration Flow Rate:.0 ml/min Detection: UV at 00 nm with 97% H3N-3% H (v/v) -grams: : H 3N-0.00 M NH4c : H3N-0.075 M NH4c : H3N-0.050 M NH 4 c D: H 3 N-0.05 M NH 4 c E: H 3N-0.000 M NH4c (H ). llantoin (5 ppm). Urea (00 ppm) Figure 7. hromatograms of allantoin and urea diluted when changing buffer (NH 4 c) concentration in mobile phase 40 mu enzoate enzoate 0 0 4 8 6 0 5509 olumn: cclaim HILI olumn (5 µm, 4.6 x 50 mm) Eluent: : Premix of 97% H3N and 3% Hc/NH 4 c (v/v) (00 mm NH4c = : v/v, ph 4.77) : 97% H3N-3% H (v/v) Flow Rate:.0 ml/min Detection: UV at 00 nm -grams: : Using eluent () : Using eluent () 550 Figure 8. hromatograms of benzoate on the cclaim Mixed- Mode HILI column using different mobile phases. pplication Note 98 5

Sample nalysis llantoin and urea are added to cosmetic products for skin protection and regeneration, especially for the treatment of dry skin. We analyzed two different cream samples. Figure 9 shows chromatograms of a blank, sample, and the same sample spiked with standards. The amounts of allantoin and urea in each sample and the spike recovery from sample are summarized in Table 3. Urea was found in both of the samples, and allantoin was found in sample. 90 mu olumn: cclaim HILI olumn (5 µm, 4.6 x 50 mm) Eluent: Premix of 97% H3N and 3% H Flow Rate:.0 ml/min Detection: UV at 00 nm -grams: : lank : Sample : Spiked sample. llantoin. Urea onclusion For HILI, sharp symmetric peaks for polar compounds are obtained using 90% acetonitrile, 0% water as the sample diluent. ur recommended buffer for HILI mobile phases is ammonium acetate. For the determination of urea and allantoin, the ph value of the buffer does not have a significant influence on peak shape. However, keeping a certain buffer concentration in the mobile phase can yield better peak shape for some ionic polar compounds (e.g., for benzoate). ur experiments demonstrate that the cclaim Mixed-Mode HILI column is suitable for separation of highly polar compounds such as allantoin and urea and their determination in cosmetic products. References. lpert,.j. J. hromatogr. 990, 499, 77.. Mant,.T., Litowski, J.R., Hodges, R.S. J. hromatogr. 998, 86, 65. 3. Hao, Z.G., Lu,.Y.,.M. Xiao, N.D. Weng,. Parke, M. Knapp,.T. Ho, J. hromatogr. 007, 77, 65. 4. M.S. li, M.G., S. Rafiuddin,.R. Khatri, J. Pharm. & iomed. nal. 007, 43, 58. 5. Dallet, Ph., L. Labat, L., Kummer, E., Dubost, J.P. J. hromatogr. 000, 74, 447. 6. Liu, X., Pohl,., New HILI/RP Mixed-Mode olumn and Its pplications in Surfactant nalysis, LPN 953-0. Presented at the 3st International Symposium on High Performance Liquid Phase Separations and Related Techniques, Ghent, elgium, June 7, 007. 0.03 Figure 9. verlay of chromatograms of the blank, sample and spiked sample. Table 3. nalysis Results for osmetic Products nalyte Sample Sample Detected 3 4 5 6 Detected dded Found Recovery llantoin ND 0.37 5.00 4.9 98.4 Urea 53.5 76.6 90.0 87.6 97.3 Note:. ne sample and spiked sample were prepared, respectively, and 3 injections were made for each.. Detected = Measured Value of sample x Diluted fold 3. Found = Measured value of spiked sample Measure value of sample 4. ND = "not detected" 55 Hyflo Super el is a registered trademark of Manville orp. Milli-Q is a registered trademark of Millipore orporation. cclaim, hromeleon, and UltiMate are registered trademarks of Dionex orporation. Passion. Power. Productivity. Dionex orporation North merica Europe sia Pacific 8 Titan Way P.. ox 3603 U.S. (847) 95-7500 anada (905) 844-9650 ustria (43) 66 5 5 enelux (3) 0 683 9768 (3) 3 353 494 Denmark (45) 36 36 90 90 France (33) 39 30 0 0 Germany (49) 66 99 0 Sunnyvale, Ireland (353) 644 0064 Italy (39) 0 5 6 67 Sweden (46) 8 473 3380 Taiwan (886) 875 6655 South merica 94088-3603 Switzerland (4) 6 05 9966 United Kingdom (44) 76 697 razil (55) 373 540 (408) 737-0700 www.dionex.com ustralia (6) 940 533 hina (85) 48 38 India (9) 764 735 Japan (8) 6 6885 3 Korea (8) 653 580 Singapore (65) 689 90 LPN 098 PDF 0/08 008 Dionex orporation