Emulfeel SSC Plus DESCRIPTION Lipid structuring in the presence of surfactants and polymer COMPOSITION INCI NAME CAS # EINECS (I)/ELINCS (L) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 68411-27-8 270-112-4 (I) Cetearyl Alcohol 67762-27-0 267-008-6 (I) Ceteth-20 9004-95-9 500-014-1 (NLP) Glyceryl Stearate 123-94-4 204-664-4 (I) Sodium Polyacrylate 9003-04-7 Polymer (Exempt) Laureth-7 3055-97-8 221-283-9 (I) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 68956-68-3 272-313-5 Sorbitan Oleate 1338-43-8 215-665-4 (I) INTRODUCTION Emulsion Emulsions are systems in which one liquid is dispersed in the form of small globules in another liquid, with the two being non-miscible. The conventional way of preparing cosmetic emulsions is by a hot process. In order to stabilize these emulsions, polar and nonpolar phases are heated and combined with the use of high agitation and in the presence of surfactants, a process that requires time, energy and specific equipment 1,2. For this and other reasons, the process for cold preparation of cosmetic emulsions have been of great commercial interest in order to create emulsions of similar quality but with reduced process time and cost compared to emulsions heat processed. The use of surfactants is the most common practice for stabilizing cold process emulsions. But there are few liquid emulsifiers, able to be cold processed, which ensure a good performance with a good stability and sensory improvement of the emulsions. The use of rheology modifiers to structure the aqueous phase of the emulsion is another option for the stabilization of such emulsions. Its use facilitates the dispersion, gelling the NOME DO PRODUTO Pág. 1/6
continuous phase of the emulsion and increasing stability, which consequently increases the life of the product 2,3. The most common forms of instability observed in emulsions are coalescence, flocculation, creaming and Ostwald ripening. Coalescence is an irreversible aggregation of the dispersed phase, where the cells come together, breaking the interface and forming a single larger globule. Flocculation is the clustering of dispersed globules without disrupting the interface. With agitation it is possible to reverse the instability process and the emulsion may stay stable for a period of time. The creaming is the separation of the dispersed and continuous phases by the effect of gravity, this occurs when there is a significant difference on the density of the phases. Ostwald ripening (Ostwald ripening) is a mechanism that promotes the enlargement of bigger droplets with a consequent reduction of the smaller droplet. This mechanism is related to the higher solubility of the molecule when the dispersed phase is in the form of smaller droplets; the higher the interfacial curvature of the droplet, the greater is its solubility in the continuous phase 1,2,4. To overcome all these forms of instability is a difficult task. The combination of different mechanisms of action, can overcome more efficiently these difficulties. Thus, the combination of a pre-defined lipid network with a polymeric thickener structure and compounds that reduce the interfacial tension of the dispersed globules, is the proposal of Emulfeel SSC Plus to stabilize high loads of oil without compromising the appearance or sensory of the emulsions. Organogel Organogels are defined as viscoelastic and thermo-reversible materials where an organic fluid is immobilized by a three-dimensional crystalline gel network formed by physical or chemical interaction of the structuring agent molecules that prevents the flow of external nonpolar phase. In other words, organogels are materials with characteristics and rheological properties of a solid, which have in the largest part of their composition (~ 98% w/w), an organic liquid 5,6. The structuring agents are compounds which, when solubilized in edible oils undergo a self-orientation of the molecules, which generates a gel network capable of supporting a large volume of liquid. The structure of the formed gel network is very specific for each structuring agent. Crystalline structuring agents under controlled temperature and process can form crystalline structures with crystals of various magnitudes, shape, and strength. The use of this technology helps to stabilize high concentrations of a fatty phase using components routinely used in the cosmetic field, thereby forming emulsions with similar sensory of conventional emulsions 5,6,7,8. The product EMULFEEL SSC PLUS is intended to the formation of cold processed emulsions containing high concentrations of oily phase as in the case of sunscreens NOME DO PRODUTO Pág. 2/6
formulations. One of the major difficulties of sunscreen formulations is the incorporation of a high oil loading which can not only affect the stability of the emulsion, but also its sensory. Based on the organogel technology for structuring oils combined with the addition of rheology modifier compounds, this product aims to prepare highly stable emulsions due to the ability to structure both the oil phase and aqueous phase of the cold processed emulsion. The several potential applications of organogels in the food, pharmaceutical, cosmetics and petrochemical industry have created a growing interest for this type of material. The interest is partly due to the large variety of possible microscopic and mesoscopic structures. For this product is believed in the potential of the technique to drag a crystalline lipid structure added to a polymeric network that it is formed around the oil globules, which enhance stability and improve sensory aspects of the formulation. WHY USE IT? This product was developed with raw materials that were carefully selected to facilitate dispersion of sunscreen (physical and chemical) in formulations with high oil loading, around 20-30% (w/w). However, besides this feature, this versatile product is totally adjustable to any cosmetic formulation as products for skin care and makeup. The stability of the globules results from the crystalline structure of the oil phase helped by a polymer network formed around the droplets which gives stability and thickens the emulsion. For bringing solid fatty compounds, this product gives excellent appearance and sensory to the emulsions. Besides, this product can also be used as a viscosity adjuster, or as the only thickener/emulsifier of hot and cold processed formulations. MARKETING APPEALS EMULFEEL SSC PLUS can be used in several cosmetic applications for the formation of O/W emulsions. It has as main features: - Allows the addition of high concentrations of oil phase (30% w/w) in cosmetic emulsions - Can be used as the only thickener/stabilizer for cold processed formulation of high SPF protection. - Dermatological and ophthalmological clinical safety demonstrated. NOME DO PRODUTO Pág. 3/6
APPLICATION AND TECHNICAL ASPECTS EMULFEEL SSC PLUS can be used in the preparation and stabilization of O/W emulsions by cold process. The product has the following characteristics: Generates emulsions with excellent appearance and sensory; Can be used in hot processes; promotes excellent dispersion of the oil phase, which reduces the risk of coalescence; Produces emulsions with viscosity around 55,000 cps (Brookfield LV DVI, TF, 10rpm), when applied to 7% w/w; emulsion formed is stable at ph 6; Product is stable, simple and rapid preparation; Produce stable cold processed emulsion of high SPF protection. SUGGESTED CONCENTRATION 5 a 7% (w/w) when used as the only thickener/stabilizer of cold process formulation containing high oil load. NOME DO PRODUTO Pág. 4/6
APLICATION Clinically Approved formulation SPF 25+ SUNSCREEN SPF 25+ PHASES RAW MATERIALS % A EMULFEEL SSC Plus 7,00 B Dicaprylyl carbonate 2,00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 2,00 BIOMIMETIC LRF COMPLEX 1,00 (Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter) Octocrylene 7,14 Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4,08 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1,53 Homosalate 7,14 Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl 1,02 Benzoate Mtehyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer 1,00 C Deionized Ater 59,14 EDTA Disodium 0,10 Glycerin 2,00 Xanthan Gum 0,10 D CHEMYNOL F (Phenoxyethanol) 0,70 Methylisothiazolinone 0,05 E Cyclopentasiloxane 2,00 Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2,00 BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES 1. Tadros TF. Emulsion formation, stability and rheology. Emulsion Formation and Stability. Weinheim: Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA. p 1-75. 2013. 2. Calderon FL, Schmitt V, Bibette J. Emulsion Science: Basic Principles. New York: Springer. p 227. 2007. 3. Goddard ED, Gruber JV. Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care. New York: Marcel Dekker Inc. p 675. 1999. 4. Friberg SE, Larson K, Sjöblom J. Food Emulsions. New York: Marcel Dekker Inc. p 647. 2003. 5. Abdallah AJ, Weiss RG. Organogels and low molecular mass organic gelators. Advanced Materials. 12:1237-1247. 2000. NOME DO PRODUTO Pág. 5/6
6. Weiss RG, Terech P. Introduction. Molecular Gels Materials with Self- Assembled Fibrillar Networks. Dordrecht: Springer. p 978. 2006. 7. Gunstone FD, Harwood JL, Dijkstra AJ. The Lipid Handbook. 3 rd edition. New York: Taylor & Francis Group. p 791. 2007. 8. Ghosh S, Rousseau D. Fat crystals and water-in-oil emulsion stability. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science. Vol. 16 (5) Pages 421 431. 2011. Document Written by: Revised by: Approved by: Controlled by: R&D Dept. Marketing Dept. R&D Director Quality Assurance Dept. Information contained in this literature is provided on good faith. We recommend that our products are tested in order to check for the convenience of their usage before adopting them on an industrial level. Such information should not be understood as a concession or allowance for using methods or compositions covered by any patent. Reproduction and distribution of this material without prior authorization from CHEMYUNION QUÍMICA LTDA are forbidden. NOME DO PRODUTO Pág. 6/6