You will learn about: Matter ph Scale Chemistry of Cosmetics Chemistry Why Chemistry? The professional cosmetologist needs to understand the chemicals he/she works with in order to: - safely perform chemical services requested by clients, - teach clients how to care for their hair following chemical services, - and, sell products to their clients. Matter Anything that occupies space; exist in 3 forms: Solids weight, volume, shape Liquids weight, volume, no shape Gasses weight, indefinite volume and shape Gas Liquid Organic Matter Matter that is now living or was alive at one time. Ex. - Plants and animals Inorganic Matter Matter that is NOT alive or has never been alive; does not contain carbon. Ex. rocks, water, minerals Plants and Mulch Humans Animals Rock Granite Water Mineral - Quartz 1
Changes In Matter Physical Change Change the characteristics without making a new substance. Ex. Ice Melting Chemical Change A change in a substance that creates a new substance with chemical characteristics different from those of the original substance. Ex. Rust oxygen mixed with metal creates rust (or iron oxide) Properties of Matter 1. Color 2. Odor 3. Weight (density) 4. Hardness or softness Elements that make up hair # Element Symbol Form 6 Carbon C Solid 8 Oxygen O Gas 1 Hydrogen H Gas 7 Nitrogen N Gas 16 Sulfur S Solid Atoms Smallest complete unit of an element 3 parts proton, neutron, electron Protons and neutrons packed tight in center to form core or nucleus Electrons move about in orbiting paths at nearly the speed of light. Nucleus Proton Positive electrical charge (+) gives atom its name. Neutron No electrical charge determines the weight of an atom - neutral Electron Negative electrical charge makes it possible for atoms to combine with other atoms to form bonds. Molecule Molecules form when unstable atoms combine chemically by sharing electrons. 2
Chemical Bonds Atoms combine chemically to create compounds that eventually create protein of hair. Compounds of C,O,H,N 22 Common amino acids Join together in chains to make proteins Amino Acids Protein Hair is made up of protein called keratin Hair is 97% keratin and 3% trace minerals Hair contains 19 of 22 common amino acids. Hydrogen Bond Unlike charges attract. Makes up about 35% of hairs strength. Individually very weak and can easily be broken by heat or water to create physical (temporary) changes in the hair. How it Works: The hydrogen atom in one molecule is attracted to an atom of another molecule that has many negative electrons. Salt Bonds This bond is a result of the attraction of unlike charges. Also broken by water to create physical (temporary) changes in the hair. How it Works: Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another amino acid grouping. How Hydrogen and Salt Bonds are Broken by Water Water molecules can easily break hydrogen and salt bonds when the water molecules move in between the bonds. When the water molecules are not present the hydrogen and bonds come back together. H H2O H H2O H H2O H H2O H H2O H Hydrogen Bonds broken by water molecules 3
Disulfide Bonds Sulfur containing side bond - Most important to a Cosmetologist. A chemical bond that forms between protein structures; sulfur-type side chains join with other sulfur-type side chains to form disulfide bonds. Much stronger than hydrogen or salt bonds. Not broken by heat or water. Only a chemical change. Example permanent wave van der Waal s Based on theory that atomic groups prefer an environment with other groups that have structures similar to theirs. Not necessarily important for Cosmetologist, other than to know that it exists and plays a role in bonding of protein chains. End Bonds (Peptide Bonds) Backbone of all protein molecules Links the amino acid protein chains together end to end. Do not disturb the end bond, this could destroy the protein structure. If broken, protein chains separate into small fragments, or revert to groups of amino acids that no longer have the characteristics of hair. RESULT VERY DAMAGED HAIR! Side Bonds Link the long spiraling protein chains together. Made up of hydrogen, salt and disulfide and Van der Waal s forces. Label the Bonds Van der Waal s Stages of Hair Formation Hair Shaft 1.Begins with individual atoms. 2.Unite to become molecules of amino acids. 3.Amino acids unite to form peptide or end bonds. 5. The individual protein chains bond to other chains by hydrogen bond, salt bonds and disulfide bonds. 6. Hair 4. Amino acids create polypeptide protein chains. 4
Cuticle Layer Close Look at the Cuticle Layer Chemistry Talking Points The ph Scale In this section you will learn what the ph scale is and it s values associated with water, acids and alkalines. Conditioners & Shampoo Hair Soap Hair relaxers Potential Hydrogen Abbreviation ph Measures whether substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline Water-Based Solutions ph measures amount of acid or alkali only in a water based solution. Only solutions containing water or solutions that can be dissolved in water can be acid or alkaline in value. Most products used in salon have water listed as main ingredient. 5
Acid More positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions Acid 0 6.99 on ph scale Skin and hair acid-balanced at 4.5 5.5 Ex. Lemons and Conditioners Equal number of hydrogen and hydroxide ions. 7.0 Ex. Water Neutral More negative hydroxide ions than hydrogen ions. Alkaline Alkaline 7.01 14 on ph scale Ex. Amonia and Hair Relaxer ph Scale Unit of measurement determines if substance is acid, neutral or alkaline. Ranges from 0 14 7 is Neutral 6
0 6.99 Acid range (orange) More positive hydrogen ions 7.01-14 Alkaline range (purple) More negative hydroxide ions Testing ph ph Nitrazine Paper ph Pencil ph Meter Acid Balanced ph is in the same range as skin and hair 4.5 5.5 Ex. Acid Balanced Shampoo 7
Chemistry of Cosmetics Chemistry Talking Points Cosmetic Classifications Based on how well a substance combines and its physical characteristics Mixture of 2 or more kinds of molecules Solutions Do not separate Can be solid, liquid or gas Mixture of 2 or more kinds of molecules Separates Needs to be shaken Suspensions Example: Vinegar and Oil Emulsions 2 or more non-mixable substances united by a binder (gum). Example: oil in water (perms) Example: water in oil (cold cream) Mixture of organic substance and a medicinal agent Semi-solid form No water Ointments Example: Lipstick 8
Soaps Mixtures of fat and oil converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified. Powders Equal mixtures of inorganic and organic substances that do NOT dissolve in water. Sifted and mixed until free of coarse grit. Shampoo Cleans the scalp and hair Removes all foreign debris without adversely affecting scalp and hair. How Shampoo Works A push pull action is caused by a surface active agent causing the oil to roll up into droplets that are lifted and rinsed away. Surfactant Surface active agent Has water loving and oil loving ends. The tail of the shampoo molecule is attracted to oil and dirt Surfactant Molecule Oil Loving Water Loving 9
Shampoo causes oil to roll up into small globules During rinsing, the heads of the shampoo molecules attach to water molecules and cause debris to roll off. Thorough rinsing washes away debris & excess shampoo. The Role of Water Universal solvent Neutral ph Hard water = minerals Hard to lather Soft water preferred (allows lather) WHAT WE JUST READ HEAD TO HEAD CHALLENGE Types of Shampoos 10
All Purpose Low Alkaline Low surfactants Mild, does not strip color Example: Redken Clear Moisture Usually strong High alkaline Plain Not for chemically treated hair Follow with acid rinse Ex: Baby shampoo Doesn t burn eyes because it s high in alkaline and so are eyes. Soapless Shampoo Able to lather without harsh alkaline ingredient Works in soft and hard water Acid - Balanced Made to have same ph as the skin and hair Will not strip color Medicated Often must have prescription Designed to treat scalp and hair problems Removes residue Such as product build-up. Clarifying 11
Anti-Dandruff Control dandruff Massage scalp vigorously and rinse thoroughly Liquid Dry Used when client can t receive normal shampoo Works with wigs Evaporates from hair Very drying For bedridden clients Orris root powder absorbs oil and dirt as product is brushed through the hair. Don t use prior to chemical service. Powder Dry Conditioning Contain animal, vegetable or mineral additives that enter cortex or coat cuticle. Improve strength and porosity. Color Contain temporary color molecules that stick to outer cuticle of hair. For Thinning Hair Gentle Lighter molecular weight Provides healthy environment for hair growth. 12
Rinses and Conditioners Appearance Rinses and Conditioners give hair the appearance of Shine and Luster Porosity Porosity - Amount of moisture in the hair. Hair Porosity is the ability of the hair to retain & absorb moisture, determined by how raised or compact the cuticle layers are. Porosity Test Manageability How easily a comb passes through the hair. Elasticity The hairs ability to stretch and return to its natural shape without breaking. 13
Types of Rinses Vinegar and Lemon Rinse Acid rinses Remove soap scum Counteract alkalinity. Soften Add luster Only slightly acidic Cream Rinse Medicated Rinse Control dandruff and minor scalp conditions. Instant Conditioner Conditioners Coat the hair shaft Restore moisture and oils Do NOT penetrate into the cortex Not for fine limp hair 14
Contain vegetable protein Acidic ph causes cuticle to close after chemical services. Normalizing Body-Building Required for fine, limp hair Deposits protein Can use prior to chemical services Moisturizing Humectants bind and hold moisture in the hair. Avoid use for several days following perm (may go limp) Formulated to meet special needs Ex. Moisture and color Customized Shampoo Web 15
What We Just Read Head to Head Challenge 16