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Contents ddhead Where we stand objectives Examples in movies of cg water Navier Stokes, potential flow, and approximations FFT solution Oceanography Random surface generation High resoluton example Video Experiment Continuous Loops Hamiltonian approach Choppy waves from the FFT solution Spray Algorithm References

ddhead Simulating Ocean Surfaces Jerry Tessendorf tssndrf@gte.net

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Objectives ddhead Oceanography concepts Random wave math Hints for realistic look Advanced things h(x, z, t) = dk x dk z h(k, t) exp {i(kx x + k z z)} h(k, t) = h 0 (k) exp { iω 0 (k)t}+ h 0( k) exp {iω 0 (k)t}

ddhead Waterworld 13th Warrior Fifth Element Truman Show Titanic Double Jeopardy Hard Rain Deep Blue Sea Devil s Advocate Contact Virus 20k Leagues Under the Sea Cast Away World Is Not Enough 13 Days

Navier-Stokes Fluid Dynamics ddhead Force Equation u(x, t) t + u(x, t) u(x, t) + p(x, t)/ρ = gŷ + F Mass Conservation u(x, t) = 0 Solve for functions of space and time: 3 velocity components pressure p density ρ distribution Boundary conditions are important constraints Very hard - Many scientitic careers built on this

Potential Flow ddhead Special Substitution u = φ(x, t) Transforms the equations into φ(x, t) t + 1 2 φ(x, t) 2 + p(x, t) ρ + gx ŷ = 0 2 φ(x, t) = 0 This problem is MUCH simpler computationally and mathematically.

ddhead Free Surface Potential Flow In the water volume, mass conservation is enforced via { φ(x φ(x) = da ) G(x, x ) φ(x ) G(x, } x ) n n V At points r on the surface φ(r, t) t + 1 2 φ(r, t) 2 + p(r, t) ρ + gr ŷ = 0 Dynamics of surface points: dr(t) dt = φ(r, t)

Numerical Wave Tank Simulation ddhead Grilli, Guyenne, Dias (2000)

Plunging Break and Splash Simulation ddhead Tulin (1999)

ddhead Simplifying the Problem Road to practicality - ocean surface: Simplify equations for relatively mild conditions Fill in gaps with oceanography. Original dynamical equation at 3D points in volume φ(r, t) t + 1 2 φ(r, t) 2 + p(r, t) ρ + gr ŷ = 0 Equation at 2D points (x, z) on surface with height h φ(x, z, t) t = gh(x, z, t)

Simplifying the Problem: Mass Conservation ddhead Vertical component of velocity h(x, z, t) t = ŷ φ(x, z, t) Use mass conservation condition ( ) ŷ φ(x, z, t) 2 H φ = ( ) 2 x 2 2 z 2 φ

Linearized Surface Waves ddhead h(x, z, t) t = ( ) 2 H φ(x, z, t) φ(x, z, t) t = gh(x, z, t) General solution easily computed in terms of Fourier Transforms

ddhead Solution for Linearized Surface Waves General solution in terms of Fourier Transform h(x, z, t) = dk x dk z h(k, t) exp {i(kx x + k z z)} with the amplitude depending on the dispersion relationship ω 0 (k) = g k h(k, t) = h 0 (k) exp { iω 0 (k)t} + h 0 ( k) exp {iω 0(k)t} The complex amplitude h 0 (k) is arbitrary.

Oceanography ddhead Think of the heights of the waves as a kind of random process Decades of detailed measurements support a statistical description of ocean waves. The wave height has a spectrum h0 (k) 2 = P 0 (k) Oceanographic models tie P 0 to environmental parameters like wind velocity, temperature, salinity, etc.

Models of Spectrum ddhead Wind speed V Wind direction vector ˆV (horizontal only) Length scale of biggest waves L = V 2 /g (g=gravitational constant) Phillips Spectrum P 0 (k) = ˆk ˆV 2 exp( 1/k 2 L 2 ) k 4 JONSWAP Frequency Spectrum { ( } exp 5 ω 4 4 Ω) + e (ω Ω) 2 /2(σΩ) 2 ln γ P 0 (ω) = ω 5

Variation in Wave Height Field ddhead Pure Phillips Spectrum Modified Phillips Spectrum

Simulation of a Random Surface ddhead Generate a set of random amplitudes on a grid h 0 (k) = ξe iθ P 0 (k) ξ = Gaussian random number, mean 0 & std dev 1 θ = Uniform random number [0,2π]. k x = 2π n xn k z = 2π m z M (n = N/2,..., (N 1)/2) (m = M/2,..., (M 1)/2)

FFT of Random Amplitudes ddhead Use the Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) on the amplitudes to obtain the wave height realization h(x, z, t) Wave height realization exists on a regular, periodic grid of points. x = n x (n = N/2,..., (N 1)/2) z = m z (m = M/2,..., (M 1)/2) The realization tiles seamlessly. This can sometimes show up as repetitive waves in a render.

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ddhead High Resolution Rendering Sky reflection, upwelling light, sun glitter 1 inch facets, 1 kilometer range

Effect of Resolution ddhead Low : 100 cm facets Medium : 10 cm facets High : 1 cm facets

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Simple Demonstration of Dispersion ddhead 256 frames, 256 128 region

Data Processing ddhead Fourier transform in both time and space: h(k, ω) Form Power Spectral Density P (k, ω) = h(k, ω) 2 If the waves follow dispersion relationship, then P is strongest at frequencies ω = ω(k). Gravity Wave Dispersion Relation 2 1 frequency (Hz) 0-1 -2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 wavenumber

ddhead Processing Results

Looping in Time Continuous Loops ddhead Continuous loops can t be made because dispersion doesn t have a fundamental frequency. Loops can be made by modifying the dispersion relationship. Repeat time T Fundamental Frequency ω 0 = 2π T New dispersion relation ω = integer ( ) ω(k) ω 0 ω 0

Quantized Dispersion Relation ddhead 3.5 3 Quantizing the Dispersion Relation Dispersion Relation Repeat Time = 100 seconds Repeat Time = 20 seconds 2.5 Frequency 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Wavenumber

Hamiltonian Approach for Surface Waves Miles, Milder, Henyey,... ddhead If a crazy-looking surface operator like 2 H is ok, the exact problem can be recast as a canonical problem with momentum φ and coordinate h in 2D. Milder has demonstrated numerically: The onset of wave breaking Accurate capillary wave interaction Henyey et al. introduced Canonical Lie Transformations: Start with the solution of the linearized problem - (φ 0, h 0 ) Introduce a continuous set of transformed fields - (φ q, h q ) The exact solution for surface waves is for q = 1.

ddhead Surface Wave Simulation (Milder, 1990)

Choppy, Near-Breaking Waves ddhead Horizontal velocity becomes important for distorting wave. Wave at x morphs horizontally to the position x + D(x, t) D(x, t) = λ d 2 k ik k h(k, t) exp {i(k x x + k z z)} The factor λ allows artistic control over the magnitude of the morph.

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ddhead 2 Water Surface Profiles Basic Surface Choppy Surface 1 Height 0-1 -2 0 5 10 15 20 Position

ddhead 5 Time Sequence of Choppy Waves "gnuplotdatatimeprofile.txt" 0-5 -10-15 -20-25 -30-35 -40-5 0 5 10 15 20 25

Choppy Waves: Detecting Overlap ddhead x X(x, t) = x + D(x, t) is unique and invertible as long as the surface does not intersect itself. When the mapping intersects itself, it is not unique. quantitative measure of this is the Jacobian matrix The J(x, t) = [ Xx / x X x / z X z / x X z / z ] The signal that the surface intersects itself is det(j) 0

ddhead 2 Water Surface Profiles Choppy Surface Jacobian/3 1 Height 0-1 -2 0 5 10 15 20 Position

Learning More About Overlap ddhead Two eigenvalues, J J +, and eigenvectors ê, ê + J = J ê ê + J + ê + ê + det(j) = J J + For no chop, J = J + = 1. As the displacement magnitude increases, J + stays positive while J becomes negative at the location of overlap. At overlap, J < 0, the alignment of the overlap is parallel to the eigenvalue ê.

ddhead 2 Water Surface Profiles Choppy Surface Minimum E-Value 1 Height 0-1 -2 0 5 10 15 20 Position

Simple Spray Algorithm ddhead Pick a point on the surface at random Emit a spray particle if J < J T threshold Particle initial direction (ˆn = surface normal) ˆv = (J T J )ê + ˆn 1 + (JT J ) 2 (1) Particle initial speed from a half-gaussian distribution with mean proportional to J T J. Simple particle dynamics: gravity and wind drag

ddhead Surface and Spray Render

Summary ddhead FFT-based random ocean surfaces are fast to build, realistic, and flexible. Based on a mixture of theory and experimental phenomenology. Used alot in professional productions. Real-time capable for games Lots of room for more complex behaviors. Latest version of course notes and slides: http://home1.gte.net/tssndrf/index.html

References Ivan Aivazovsky Artist of the Ocean, by Nikolai Novouspensky, Parkstone/Aurora, Bournemouth, England, 1995. Jeff Odien, On the Waterfront, Cinefex, No. 64, p 96, (1995) Ted Elrick, Elemental Images, Cinefex, No. 70, p 114, (1997) Kevin H. Martin, Close Contact, Cinefex, No. 71, p 114, (1997) Don Shay, Ship of Dreams, Cinefex, No. 72, p 82, (1997) Kevin H. Martin, Virus: Building a Better Borg, Cinefex, No. 76, p 55, (1999) Grilli, S.T., Guyenne, P., Dias, F., Modeling of Overturning Waves Over Arbitrary Bottom in a 3D Numerical Wave Tank, Proceedings 10th Offshore and Polar Enging. Conf. (ISOPE00, Seattle, USA, May 2000), Vol. III, 221-228. Marshall Tulin, Breaking Waves in the Ocean, Program on Physics of Hydrodynamic Turbulence, (Institute for Theoretical Phyics, Feb 7, 2000), http://online.itp.ucsb.edu/online/hydrot00/si-index.html Dennis B. Creamer, Frank Henyey, Roy Schult, and Jon Wright, Improved Linear Representation of Ocean Surface Waves. J. Fluid Mech, 205, pp. 135-161, (1989). Milder, D.M., The Effects of Truncation on Surface Wave Hamiltonians, J. Fluid Mech., 217, 249-262, 1990.