Shelf And Slope Sediment Transport In Strataform

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Shelf And Slope Sediment Transport In Strataform David A. Cacchione Woods Hole Group 1167 Oddstad Drive Redwood City, MA 94063 phone: 650-298-0520 fax: 650-298-0523 email: dcacchione@whgrp.com Award #: N0001499C0002 LONG-TERM GOALS STRATAFORM is a multi-disciplinary, multi-investigator program designed to advance our understanding of the development of stratigraphic sequences on continental shelves and slopes. One of the major components of this coordinated program has focussed on investigating active sedimentary processes that lead to the formation and modification of seafloor deposits. Field experiments to evaluate the role of storms, floods, and other physical processes in resuspending and transporting sediment along and across the shelf and upper slope have been undertaken in STRATAFORM over the past four years. As part of this component of STRATAFORM we have participated in these experiments and subsequent analysis of the results. In this project our specific long-term goal is to understand the variability of the sediment response at the seafloor to bottom currents and stresses caused by physical oceanographic forcing. This work is accomplished through statistical and dynamical analyses of available field measurements of wave and current flows, sediment resuspension and concentration, and bottom sediment distributions. OBJECTIVES Determine the role of internal waves and tides in affecting sedimentation on the upper slope and on the shelf in the STRATAFORM field area off northern California. Evaluate the importance of dense, near-bottom layers of suspended sediment for offshore sediment transport. Provide data input on physical and sediment parameters (currents, waves, suspended sediment concentrations) to shelf sediment transport models. Summarize the measurements and analysis of bottom boundary layer data collected with instrumented shelf tripods. APPROACH In our investigations of internal waves and tides we are using both historical and more recent CTD data collected by other STRATAFORM investigators to provide information on the nature and variability of the density field. We are also analyzing current, temperature and salinity data that has been obtained from sensors attached to a mooring in 450-m depth on the upper slope in the northern section of the STRATAFORM study area. This mooring has been maintained at this site by STRATAFORM investigators nearly continuously since September, 1995.We are also using for this analysis data

Report Documentation Page Form Approved OMB No. 0704-0188 Public reporting burden for the collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instructions, searching existing data sources, gathering and maintaining the data needed, and completing and reviewing the collection of information. Send comments regarding this burden estimate or any other aspect of this collection of information, including suggestions for reducing this burden, to Washington Headquarters Services, Directorate for Information Operations and Reports, 1215 Jefferson Davis Highway, Suite 1204, Arlington VA 22202-4302. Respondents should be aware that notwithstanding any other provision of law, no person shall be subject to a penalty for failing to comply with a collection of information if it does not display a currently valid OMB control number. 1. REPORT DATE 30 SEP 1999 2. REPORT TYPE 3. DATES COVERED 00-00-1999 to 00-00-1999 4. TITLE AND SUBTITLE Shelf And Slope Sediment Transport In Strataform 5a. CONTRACT NUMBER 5b. GRANT NUMBER 5c. PROGRAM ELEMENT NUMBER 6. AUTHOR(S) 5d. PROJECT NUMBER 5e. TASK NUMBER 5f. WORK UNIT NUMBER 7. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) Woods Hole Group,1167 Oddstad Drive,Redwood City,MA,94063 8. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION REPORT NUMBER 9. SPONSORING/MONITORING AGENCY NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 10. SPONSOR/MONITOR S ACRONYM(S) 12. DISTRIBUTION/AVAILABILITY STATEMENT Approved for public release; distribution unlimited 13. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES 14. ABSTRACT 11. SPONSOR/MONITOR S REPORT NUMBER(S) 15. SUBJECT TERMS 16. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF: 17. LIMITATION OF ABSTRACT a. REPORT b. ABSTRACT c. THIS PAGE Same as Report (SAR) 18. NUMBER OF PAGES 4 19a. NAME OF RESPONSIBLE PERSON Standard Form 298 (Rev. 8-98) Prescribed by ANSI Std Z39-18

collected by instrumentation mounted on bottom tripods that were deployed on the shelf in 50 to 60 m depths in the winters of 1996-97 and 1997-98. We are utilizing discrete and time-series statistical analysis of primary physical and geological parameters (currents, waves, suspended sediment concentrations, bed elevation changes) and derived sediment transport parameters (wave and current shear velocities, bed stress, roughness scales). These statistics will be combined and evaluated to derive relationships for sediment response and physical forcing. A by-product of this work will be a data base for the measured and derived quantities. We also are working with other investigators to estimate time-dependent sediment flux, particularly during energetic storms and river flood events. The significance of high concentration layers near the seafloor in the overall sediment transport conditions is a primary focus of this work. WORK COMPLETED We have completed and reported on preliminary statistical analyses of current, temperature, and salinity data collected during 1995-1997 by sensors on the mooring on the upper slope (Cacchione, et al., 1998). Historical CTD profiles have been obtained and assembled into a data-base. These profiles and those that have been collected during STRATAFORM by other investigators are used to compute the stability frequency (Brunt-Vaisala frequency). In collaboration with Dr. Lincoln Pratson we have obtained detailed digital bathymetric data for the STRATAFORM study region (from multi-beam sonar data collected by L. Mayer, and from USGS data archives). A detailed bathymetric map and a bottom gradient map (derived from the bathymetry) for this region have been completed. We have computed and analyzed the energy characteristics for the internal tide and other higher frequency internal waves based on the density profiles, and have compared the slope of these characteristics with the bottom slopes thoorughout this region. Estimates of sediment transport during storms and flood events has been carried out with other investigators using bottom boundary layer measurements and shelf transport models (Cacchione, et al., 1999) RESULTS Preliminary analysis of the current, temperature and salinity time-series data from the mooring at 450- m depth suggests that the internal semi-diurnal tide is intensified near the seafloor, and accounts for about 75-80% of the energy in these records (Cacchione, et al., 1998). In addition, the first harmonic (M4) of the M2 internal tide was found to contain significant energy in the time-series of current and temperature data from the deepest sensors (at ~ 15 m above the bottom). Based on CTD profiles taken near the mooring site, we determined that the bottom slope between about 150 and 250 m depth is critical for the M2 internal tide (Cacchione, et al., 1998). We have also produced a map showing the regions of the seafloor where the M2 and M4 internal tides can be expected to be critical (with L. Pratson; Cacchione, et al., 1998). This result indicates that

significant portions of the mid-slope (depths of 400-700 m) and large areas near the shelf break (~150-200 m) are "critical" for the M2 internal tide. This potentially may explain the increased energy in the M2 tide near the seafloor, and the emergence of an energetic M4 tide near the bottom. We are continuing to analyze the implications of increased velocities due to topographic intensification of the internal tide in affecting sedimentation. We have shown with others (R. Sternberg and A. Ogston) that significant seaward transport of finegrained sediment on the inner to mid-shelf in the STRATAFORM occurs within a thin bottom layer. The values of the sediment concentrations within this layer equal or exceed values for fluid muds (>10 g/l). Other investigators (P. Traykovski and J. Lynch) also have evidence from acoustic data that fluid mud is found above the seabed in this region. IMPACT/APPLICATIONS If internal tides and other internal waves are found to actively resuspend bottom sediment or inhibit deposition of fine particles on shelves and slopes, we propose that the nature of slope sedimentation and slope gradients will be significantly influenced by these processes. The interpretation that fluid mud formed following a period of high sediment discharge from the Eel River and large bed stresses has great implications for the amount of sediment transported on this shelf. If fluid mud forms on shelves that receive large amounts of sediment from coastal rivers, similar to that found off the Amazon river (Kineke and Sternberg, 1995; Cacchione, et al, 1995), then a major mechanism for shelf sediment transport will have been discovered. RELATED PROJECTS This project is closely related to other STRATAFORM projects which are involved measurements of sediment transport. These include projects by R. Sternberg and A. Ogston, U. of Washington, by L.D. Wright, VIMS, and by J. Lynch and J. Irish, WHOI. In addition, this project provides input to the modeling of shelf transport for STRATAFORM (Wiberg, et al., 1996). We are also working closely with Dr. L. Pratson in our analysis of internal tides and waves on the slope. REFERENCES Cacchione, D., Drake, D., Kayen, R., Sternberg, R., Kineke, G., and Tate, G., 1995, Measurements in the bottom boundary layer on the Amazon subaqueous delta, Marine Geology, 125, 235-257. Kineke, G. and Sternberg, R., 1995, Distribution of fluid muds on the Amazon continental shelf, Marine Geology, 125, 193-234. Cacchione, D.A., Ogston, A., McPhee, E.E., Sternberg, R.W., and Tate, G.B., 1998, Internal tides and sedimentation on the northern California continental slope: EOS, Transactions, American Geophysical Union, 1998 Fall Meeting Abstracts, 79 (45), F457. Cacchione, D.A., Wiberg, P., Lynch, J., Irish, J. and Traykovski, P., 1999, Estimates of suspended sediment flux and bedform activity on the inner portion of the Eel continental shelf, Marine Geology, 83-97.

PUBLICATIONS Cacchione, D.A., Ogston, A., McPhee, E.E., Sternberg, R.W., and Tate, G.B., 1998, Internal tides and sedimentation on the northern California continental slope: EOS, Transactions, American Geophysical Union, 1998 Fall Meeting Abstracts, 79 (45), F457. Cacchione, D.A., Wiberg, P., Lynch, J., Irish, J. and Traykovski, P., 1999, Estimates of suspended sediment flux and bedform activity on the inner portion of the Eel continental shelf, Marine Geology, 83-97.