Suspension sorting at the Sand Motor NCK theme day

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Suspension sorting at the Sand Motor NCK theme day B.J.A. Huisman oct 2010 may 2011 oct 2013 feb 2014 1

Context PhD research Where do the sand grains go? Bed composition changes Case : Sand Motor Big disturbance! Approach Data -> Grab samples Models -> Processes 21 million m 3 2

Literature Transport of a sediment mixture Qs = - f (D50) <suspended load> 3

Literature What happens with individual grains in a mixture? Equal transport all grains? Fine grains move quicker? Coarse grains transported more? Depends on the conditions! 4

Literature What happens with individual grains in a mixture? Specific case : bed load / sheet flow - Coarse fraction more mobile than the fine fraction? - No effect of addition of 30% coarser sediment Roughness Hassan at al. (1999, 2005) Van Rijn (2007) 5

Literature What happens with individual grains in a mixture? Close to initiation of motion Individual grains of 1 mixture move at same threshold Critical bed shear stress Sand mixture D50 trend Hiding & Exposure Grain diameter Wilcock (1993) Van Rijn (2007) 6

Literature What happens with individual grains in a mixture? What about conditions well above the threshold for motion? -> most likely situation Coarse grains Suspension Fine grains Bagnold (1966) Baba & Komar (1981) Komar (1987) 7

Application at Sand Motor Relevance at the Sand Motor? Do more mobile fine sand fractions imply bed composition changes? Not necessarily! -> need a transport gradient 8

Application at Sand Motor Relevance at the Sand Motor? Initial thoughts? Divergence of wave-driven transport Coarsening of the bed Most erosion = Most bed composition change? 9

Field evidence Coarsening of D 50 at peninsula Fining of the bed at the flanks ~ 150 μm Reduction of coarsening due to storms oct 2010 oct 2013 feb 2014 Grain diameter (D 50 ) Huisman et al. (2016) 10

Field evidence Coarsening of D 50 Outside surfzone till MSL-15m A coarse bed > A sandmotor Reduction of coarsening due to storms oct 2010 oct 2013 feb 2014 Mean bed shear stress (τ m ) Related with hydrodynamics (τ m ) Grain diameter (D 50 ) τ τ m m τ m Huisman et al. (2016) 11

Field evidence Relevance at the Sand Motor? Observed Most bed composition change in deeper water Related to the tidal contraction 12

Model predictions Predictions with Delft3D (Huisman et al., 2018) Using Delft3D 12 layers (Lesser et al., 2004) 2.5 year hindcast Tide + Wave time-series Sediment : 5 fractions Transport : 5 seperate computations Multi-layer bed administration Huisman et al. (2018) 13

Model predictions tide Predictions with Delft3D -> influence of conditions (Huisman et al., 2018) Sensitivity to tide + moderate waves storms Storms hardly impact D50 Small Sand Motors have hardly and effect Small perturbation 14

Principal processes What does it tell us? Process is captured with physics in model - Suspension behaviour of coarse sand! - The difference in suspension behaviour is largest at intermediate shear stress regimes (Huisman et al., 2018) Huisman et al. (2018) 15

Relevance Similar bed composition & habitat changes at any coastal structure! Design : Models available to predict Possible to build nature! (cross-shore extent / Fine sediment) Science : Check hydrodynamic regime -> potential for sorting Morphology outside the surfzone Infer knowledge from bed sediment composition -> model validation Tau(max) 16

References Baba, J., Komar, P.D. (1981). Measurements and analysis of settling velocities of natural quartz sand grains. J. Sediment. Petrology, Vol. 51, pp. 631 640. Bagnold, R.A. (1966). An approach to the sediment transport problem from general physics. In: Geological Survey Professional Papers, Washington, USA, Vol. 422-1, pp. 1 37. Hassan, W.N.M., Kroekenstoel, D.F., Ribberink, J.S., van Rijn, L.C. (1999). Gradation effects on sand transport under oscillatory sheet-flow conditions. Research report, WL/Delft Hydraulics and Univ. of Twente, The Netherlands, 165 pp. Hassan, W.N., Ribberink, J.S. (2005). Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow Coastal Engineering, Vol. 52, pp. 745-770. Huisman, B.J.A., De Schipper, M.A., Ruessink, B.G. (2016). Sediment sorting at the sand motor at storm and annual time scales. Mar. Geol. 381, 209 226. Huisman, B.J.A., Ruessink, B.G., De Schipper, M.A., Luijendijk, A.P., Stive, M.J.F., (2018). Modelling of bed sediment composition changes at the lower shoreface of the Sand Motor. Coast. Eng., Vol. 132, pp. 33-49. Komar, P.D. (1987). Selective grain entrainment by a current from a bed of mixed sizes: a reanalysis. J. Sediment. Petrology, Vol. 57 (2), pp. 203 211. Lesser, G. R.; Roelvink, J. A.; van Kester, J. A. T. M. & Stelling, G. S. (2004). Development and validation of a three-dimensional morphological model. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 51, pp. 883-915. Van Rijn, L.C. (2007). Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves III: graded beds. J. Hydraulic Eng., Vol. 133 (7), pp. 761 775. Wilcock, P.R. (1993). Critical shear stress of natural sediments. Hydraul. Eng., Vol. 119 (4), pp. 491 505. 17