LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE SWASH ZONE AT DESARU BEACH MARIAHTI BTE BERAHIM

i LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE SWASH ZONE AT DESARU BEACH MARIAHTI BTE BERAHIM A project report submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the award of the degree of Master of Engineering (Civil Hydraulics & Hydrology) Faculty of Civil Engineering Universiti Teknologi Malaysia JANUARY 2014

Specially dedicated to my beloved father, mother, sisters and brother iii

iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS First of all, I am grateful to Allah s.w.t. for all His guidance and blessing through all the hardship encountered when completing this project. I would like to express my sincere appreciation to my supervisor, Dr. Mohamad Hidayat bin Jamal and Assoc. Prof. Dr. Mushairry bin Mustaffar who helped me a lot in the progress of my project by giving me guidance, encouragement and details explanation. I would like to thank the Department of Irrigation and Drainage (DID) Malaysia and Malaysian Meteorological Department for the data and valuable information that have been used in this project. Thanks also to Mr. Radzuan Sa ari, Mr. Md Ridzuan Makhtar, Mr. Norasman Othman and Mr. Suhaimi for the help in this project. I appreciate very much. this project. A very special thanks to Izyan, Ling and Suhaila who helped me regarding And last but not least, thank you very much to my beloved family who always encourage me and their loving bless.

v ABSTRACT This study examined the processes of longshore sediment transport in the swash zone at Desaru beach, Johor. It focused the suitability of sediment trap on sandy beach and beach profile s survey to determine the direction of longshore transport. Field measurements were carried out by using sediment trap, Global Positioning System (GPS) kit and water level logger. Data collected are sediment samples, beach profile and tides. Laboratory sediment analysis also conducted to determine the size, density and porosity at the area. It was found that the sediment trap is unsuitable to be used at Desaru beach. This could be due to highly turbulent waves and sediment transport from the cross-shore direction that had fully covered the trap with sediment. The beach profile survey shows that the direction of the longshore transport is coming from northwest to southeast of the beach. From the analysis of sediment samples, it was found that the sediment size ranges from 0.33 mm to 0.35 mm with median diameter of 0.34 mm. From the experiment, the average porosity is approximately 0.43, whereas the average density is about 2635 kg/m 3. As conclusions, the sediment trap is unsuitable to be used at sandy Desaru beach. The direction of the longshore transport is from northwest to southeast of the area during Northeast monsoon.

vi ABSTRAK Kajian ini mengenai proses pengangkutan sedimen pesisiran pantai di dalam zon swash di pantai Desaru, Johor. Ia memberi tumpuan untuk menguji kesesuaian perangkap sedimen di pantai berpasir dan profil pantai diukur untuk menentukan arah pengangkutan pesisiran pantai. Kajian dijalankan dengan menggunakan perangkap sedimen, alat GPS dan pengukur kedalaman air. Data yang diambil adalah sampel sedimen, profil pantai dan air pasang surut. Analisis sedimen dijalankan di makmal untuk mengenal pasti saiz, ketumpatan dan keliangan sedimen di kawasan kajian. Hasil kajian mendapati bahawa perangkap sedimen tidak sesuai digunakan di pantai Desaru. Ini mungkin disebabkan oleh gelombang yang bergelora dan pengangkutan sedimen dari arah merentasi pantai yang telah menimbus sepenuhnya perangkap sedimen. Hasil keputusan juga menunjukkan bahawa arah pengangkutan pesisiran pantai itu dari arah barat laut ke tenggara di kawasan kajian. Daripada analisis sedimen mendapati bahawa saiz sedimen adalah daripada 0.33 mm ke 0.35 mm dengan diameter median ialah 0.34 mm. Hasil ujikaji yang dijalankan, keliangan purata sedimen adalah kira-kira 0.43 manakala ketumpatan purata adalah kira-kira 2635 kg/m 3. Kesimpulannya, perangkap sedimen tidak sesuai digunakan di pantai berpasir. Arah pengangkutan pesisiran pantai adalah dari arah barat laut ke tenggara di kawasan kajian semasa monsun timur laut.

vii TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER TITLE PAGE DECLARATION DEDICATION ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ABSTRACT ABSTRAK TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES LIST OF FIGURES LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS LIST OF SYMBOLS LIST OF APPENDICES ii iii iv v vi vii x xi xiv xv xvii 1 INTRODUCTION 1 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Statement of Problem 2 1.3 Importance of the Study 3 1.4 Objective of the Study 4 1.5 Scope of the Study 4 2 LITERATURE REVIEW 5 2.1 General 5 2.2 Beach Sediment 6 2.3 Beach States 8 2.4 Wave Transformation 9

viii 2.4.1 Wave Refraction 10 2.4.2 Wave Diffraction 11 2.4.3 Wave Reflection 12 2.5 Sediment Transport 13 2.5.1 Longshore Sediment Transport 13 2.5.2 Cross-shore Sediment Transport 15 2.5.3 Sediment Transport Modes 15 2.6 Measurement of Longshore Sediment Transport 16 2.6.1 Tracers 16 2.6.2 Traps 17 2.6.3 Rates of Accumulation 17 2.7 Prediction of Longshore Sediment Transport Rates 18 2.7.1 CERC Formula 18 2.7.2 KAMPHUIS Formula 20 2.8 Swash Zone 21 2.8.1 Sediment Transport in the Swash Zone 22 2.9 Tides 25 2.9.1 Spring and Neap Tide 25 2.9.2 Tide Range 27 2.10 Beach Profile Change 28 2.10.1 Mechanisms Causing Beach Profile Change 30 2.10.2 Beach Measurement 31 3 METHODOLOGY 33 3.1 General 33 3.2 Sediment Trap 34 3.3 GPS Setup 37 3.4 Beach Profile Survey 39 3.5 Tidal Data Measurement 40 3.6 Sampling and Analysis of Samples 43 3.6.1 Sieve Analysis 43 3.6.2 Porosity Test 44 3.6.3 Density Test 45

ix 4 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 46 4.1 Sediment Trap 46 4.2 Wave and Wind Rose Analysis 48 4.3 Beach Profile Results 51 4.3.1 Beach Profile Change for 1 Day 53 4.3.2 Beach Profile Change for 2 Days 54 4.3.3 Beach Profile Changes for 1 Week 57 4.3.4 Beach Profile Change for 3 Weeks 59 4.4 Tidal Analysis 61 4.5 Sediment Samples 62 5 CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS 65 5.1 Conclusions 65 5.2 Recommendations for Future Study 66 REFERENCES 67 Appendices 70 Appendix A 70 Appendix B 71

x LIST OF TABLES TABLE NO. TITLE PAGE 2.1 Wentworth scale of sediment size classification 6 4.1 Tides with specified date 52 4.2 Erosion and accretion value for 1 day 54 4.3 Erosion and accretion value for 2 days 56 4.4 Erosion and accretion value for 1 week 58 4.5 Erosion and accretion value for 3 weeks 60 4.6 Sediment properties of sediment sample 63

xi LIST OF FIGURES FIGURE NO. TITLE PAGE 1.1 Location of Desaru beach 3 2.1 Type of wave breaking 9 2.2 Wave refraction pattern 10 2.3 Definition sketch for wave diffraction in the lee of a 12 barrier 2.4 Wave reflection analysis 12 2.5 Beach drifting Schematic process of longshore 14 transport on the swash slope 2.6 Definition sketch for the nearshore littoral zone 22 2.7 Sediment transport processes during a swash cycle 24 2.8 Relative positions of the sun, moon and earth during 26 spring tides 2.9 Relative positions of the sun, moon and earth during 26 neap tides 2.10 Tidal curves, tide ranges and shore zones 28 2.11 Typical beach profiles and terminology 29 3.1 Desaru beach, Johor 33 3.2 Sediment trap with size of 15 cm by 9 cm for first 34 measurement 3.3 Location of sediment trap for first measurement 34 3.4 Sediment trap with size of 7.6 cm by 7.6 cm for second 35 measurement 3.5 Location of sediment trap for second measurement 35

xii 3.6 Sediment trap with size of 7.6 cm by 7.6 cm for third 36 measurement 3.7 Location of sediment trap for third measurement 36 3.8 Installation of sediment trap 36 3.9 Arrangement of sediment trap along the shore 37 3.10 RTK base receiver 38 3.11 RTK GPS setup 38 3.12 Beach survey location 39 3.13 Measurement of beach profile change by using RTK 40 rover receiver 3.14 Bench mark J4299 from JUPEM 40 3.15 Bench mark 5008J from Royal Malaysian Navy 41 3.16 Tide gauge at Jetty Tanjung Balau 41 3.17 Conversion from ACD to LSD 42 3.18 Beach profile (MSL is elevation of 0.41 m) 42 3.19 The equipment used to determine grain-size 44 classification 4.1 Observation of sediment trap 47 4.2 Sketch of wave effect to the sediment trap 48 4.3 Wave rose in October from 1984 to 2013 49 4.4 Wave rose in November from 1984 to 2013 49 4.5 Wind rose at station Mersing from 1968 to 2012 50 4.6 Beach profile change at location NW260 51 4.7 Beach profile change at location C0 52 4.8 Beach profile change at location SE290 52 4.9 Beach profile change for 1 day at location NW260 Profile 1 53 4.10 Beach profile change for 1 day at location C0 Profile 2 53 4.11 Beach profile change for 1 day at location SE290 54 Profile 3 4.12 Beach profile change for 2 days at location NW260 Profile 4 55

xiii 4.13 Beach profile change for 2 days at location C0 Profile 55 5 4.14 Beach profile change for 2 days at location SE290 56 Profile 6 4.15 Beach profile change for 1 week at location NW260 57 Profile 7 4.16 Beach profile change for 1 week at location C0 Profile 58 8 4.17 Beach profile change for 1 week at location SE290 58 Profile 9 4.18 Beach profile change for 3 weeks at location NW260 59 Profile 10 4.19 Beach profile change for 3 weeks at location C0 60 Profile 11 4.20 Beach profile change for 3 weeks at location SE290 60 Profile 12 4.21 Tide data at Tanjung Balau, Johor 62 4.22 Grain size distribution of Sample A 63 4.23 Grain size distribution of Sample B 63

xiv LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS ACD - Admiralty Chart Datum LSD - Land Survey Datum MHHW - Mean Higher High Water MLHW - Mean Lower High Water MSL - Mean Sea Level MHLW - Mean Higher Low Water MLLW - Mean Lower Low Water GPS - Global Positioning System RTK - Real Time Kinematic

xv LIST OF SYMBOLS β - Beach slope H 0 - Deep water wave height L 0 - Deep water wave length ζ 0 - Iribarren number I - Immersed weight longshore transport rate E - Wave energy at breaker line H rms,br - rms wave height at breaker line c g,br - Wave group celerity at breaker line θ br - Wave angle at breaker line K - Coefficient Q t,vol - Longshore sediment transport by volume including pores Q t,mass - Sediment transport by dry mass H s,br - Significant wave height at the breaker line c br - Phase velocity of the waves at the breaker line n br - Coefficient at breaker line θ br - Wave angle at the breaker line h br - Water depth at the breaker line p - Porosity factor ρ s - Sediment density Q t,im - Immersed mass longshore sediment transport Q t,mass - Dry mass d 50 - Median particle size in surfzone T p - Peak wave period V s - Volume of loose sand V w - Volume of water V T - Total volume

xvi V sw - Volume of sand and water Ws - Weight of sand n - Porosity D 50 - Median size of sediment distribution

xvii LIST OF APPENDICES APPENDIX TITLE PAGE A Tide table at Tanjung Sedili, Johor 70 B Value above chart datum at Tanjung Balau 71

1 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Introduction The study of sediment transport processes is fundamental to the understanding of coastal evolution, which is necessary for effective coastal engineering design. Generally, sediment transport can be divided into longshore sediment transport and cross-shore sediment transport. Longshore sediment transport is primarily driven by an alongshore wave-induced current produced by waves approaching at an angle to the shore, whereas cross-shore sediment transport is considerably generated during storm (Won and In, 2008). Longshore transport plays a large role in the evolution of shoreline. If there are slight changes in sediment supply, wind direction or coastal influence, the formation and evolution of beach profile will be effected. The present study is focused on the longshore sediment transport. The swash zone has been considered as an important role in shaping natural beaches. Thus, the understanding of processes in this zone is very important for the estimating of coastal erosion and accretion. Elfrink and Baldock (2002) stated that littoral sediment transport often occurs in the swash zone as sediment concentrations are often high in the swash zone. The swash zone is the most dynamic part of the nearshore region and characterised by large flow velocities, high turbulence levels and large suspended sediment concentrations (Elfrink and Baldock, 2002).

2 Beach monitoring provides a way of understanding beach dynamics and the factors that influence the volumetric gains and losses along the coast (Morton et al., 1993). Changes in cross-shore beach profiles are controlled by many factors, which include waves, tidal flows and sediment characteristics (Karunarathna et al., 2012). By measuring the dimensions of a particular beach repeatedly, the amounts of erosion or accretion can be determined over the period of the surveys, as well as some indications of where the material may be going. Details about the behaviour of the particular beach can be provided when measured the beach profiles at the same location over a period of time. People utilise the coast for many purposes such as commercial fishing, tourism and recreation. The coastal environment is dynamic and it is one of the most rapidly changing physical environments on earth. Due to the strong link between society and coastal changes, it is advisable that we understand this environment and what causes it to change its state. Although natural processes are shaping the earth s natural coastal landscape, but these processes can give trouble to people that live along the coasts, where their homes are built right on or near the beaches. This is because of the process that carries sediments away from the shore can lead to erosion. Therefore, we should make every effort to control this from happening. 1.2 Statement of Problem Johor is one of the coastal states in Malaysia with the longest coastline facing the South China Sea in the east, the Strait of Malacca in the west and the Strait of Johor in the south. Coastal resources are the main source of income towards industrialisation and economic development in Johor especially along the coastal area. Tourism plays an important role in the state s economy. In Johor, Desaru beach is most popular beach and situated on the southeast coast of the district. It is located approximately 88 kilometres east of Johor Bahru and very close to the developing country, Singapore. Figure 1.1 shows the location of Desaru beach in Peninsular Malaysia.

3 The National Coastal Erosion Study (NCES) reported cases of coastal erosion and established for three categories (ASEAN/US CRMP, 1991). First category is critical erosion, second category is significant erosion and third category is acceptable erosion. Thus, Desaru is in category one which is critical erosion. Desaru beach also can be categorised as a steep beach slope. In coastal area, waves mobilise and currents transport coastal sediments. Erosion occurs when the amount of sediment transported away from an area exceeds the amount transported to it. Therefore, further investigation in this area is needed to predict accurately coastal erosion trends along Johor s coast. Figure 1.1: Location of Desaru beach 1.3 Importance of the Study Desaru beach is a resort located at east of Johor. It is a very famous spot for tourists mostly from Singapore and the locals. This study is conducted to examine the suitability of the sediment trap on sandy beach by using different size of sediment trap. The sediment trap is used to collect moving sediment so that the transport rate

4 can be measured. The analysis of sample also is conducted in the laboratory to determine the size, density and porosity of sediment at the area. Beach profile change is measured to determine the erosion and accretion of the study area and also to analyse the direction of longshore sediment transport. Thus, the coastal erosion trends can be predicted at Desaru beach. 1.4 Objective of the Study The objectives of the study are to: 1. Examine the suitability of sediment trap on sandy beach. 2. Analyse the sediment properties on the beach. 3. Analyse the direction of longshore transport by measuring beach profile. 1.5 Scope of the Study Field work is conducted in order to achieve all the objectives of the study of longshore sediment transport in the swash zone at Desaru beach. The scopes of this study are: 1. Tide table is referred to determine the neap and spring in order to conduct beach profile measurement and to install the sediment trap. 2. Sediment trap is used to examine the suitability of the trap on sandy beach with different size and duration of study. 3. Analyse the sample to determine the grain size, porosity and density of the sediment. 4. Wind and wave rose are obtained from Malaysian Meteorological Department for analysis of the effect of wave to beach profile change.

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