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Charlotte Boone
6 years ago
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288-293 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:29 AM

1 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:29 AM Page 288 TRAVEL > 288 COAST DECEMBER 2006

288-293 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:29 AM Page 289 TEXT AND PHOTOS BY GEOFFREY RAGATZ The power and the beauty of the Galapagos Islands offer much more than an education.

2 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:29 AM Page 289 TEXT AND PHOTOS BY GEOFFREY RAGATZ The power and the beauty of the Galapagos Islands offer much more than an education. DON T KNOW MUCH ABOUT HISTORY... BIOLOGY Imagine, if you will, a place where natural order replaces manufactured time; where the genetic breadbasket of our planet s evolution plays against 20th century progress. To say that I felt as if I d dropped into my own personal segment of The Discovery Channel is no overstatement. Following in the footsteps of the noble and visionary crusade launched by Charles Darwin whose chronological hypothesis emancipated the Galapagos biological bounty I circumnavigated the volcanic islands in six days, covering seven of the archipelago s 13 volcanic islands. It was Darwin s studies of the Galapagos wildlife, their adaptation and variation between races of the same species living on different islands, that led directly to his theory of adaptive evolution and natural selection. His ensuing book, The Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection, forever changed the face of biological science as we know it today. There is perhaps nowhere else on earth where the natural order of things have been left so intact. And to experience the intricacies with which these processes work within the natural world in an intimate and personal way is an experience no one could ever forget. Sailing north from San Cristobal aboard Ecoventura s flagship cruise vessel Letty was an unparalleled experience of personal service in a luxurious atmosphere with an experienced staff whose intimate knowledge of all things Galapagos made for a once in-a-lifetime journey. Combining adventurous outings with educational information about the natural history of the islands, they made each day a new and exciting adventure. With multiple excursions that brought out the individual nuances of each island s particular domain, I felt as if I were attending an abbreviated field course in post-graduate studies of the primitive world at large. Isla Bartolome s parasitic cone illustrates the volcanic origins and volatile nature of the archipelago s volcanic origins. Much like Hawaii, the Galapagos formed as hot spots breached the Earth s mantle. San Cristobal, the oldest of the island chain, is approximately four million years old, while Fernandina is but 7,000 years old and considered to be one of the most active volcanoes in the world. COAST DECEMBER

288-293 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:29 AM Page 290 From San Cristobal, we traveled north to the Island of Genovesa, considered by many to be one of the most spectacular islands in the archipelago.

That they roam here by the thousands and are virtually unfazed by the passing of humanoid tourists like myself, made the experience even more surreal.

3 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:29 AM Page 290 From San Cristobal, we traveled north to the Island of Genovesa, considered by many to be one of the most spectacular islands in the archipelago. Somewhat removed from the rest of the island chain, Genovesa s blue- and red-footed boobie bird populations are considered to be the most prolific in the world. That they roam here by the thousands and are virtually unfazed by the passing of humanoid tourists like myself, made the experience even more surreal. From Genovesa, we followed a westerly approach through the islands of Bartolome, North Seymore, Ferdnandina, Isabella, and Santa Cruz. I was astonished by the hostile environment that had a baja quality, the product of violent plate tectonics and volcanic eruptions more than five million years ago. Seemingly uninhabitable at first glance, with mercury levels hitting the century mark, it s no wonder the Spanish dismissed the islands as a barren wasteland in the early 16th century. But with a seasoned natural history guide schooled in the Galapagos most detailed anomalies assigned to answer any and all questions about the diversity of each island, its development and individual characteristics became astonishingly clear. On the island of Fernandina, huge marine Iguanas were so easily approachable that cameo portraits were in order. Flightless cormorants, genetically engineered to dive to depths greater than 500 feet, roosted in nests mere inches from my wide-angle lens. Amongst the rarest of Galapagos seabirds, the cormorants are only found on the coastline of Fernandina and the north shore of Isabella. In Espanola, I swam with a friendly sea lion whose water dominance suggested total authority, passing with 360-degree fly-by assaults. Obviously toying with the notion of my presence, the face-to-face encounter was perhaps my most intimate of all. The island of Bartolome, its jagged peaks made famous in the filming of Russell Crowe s period epic Master and Commander, provided for a more strenuous, straight-up workout routine. Having ascended its volcanic dome, an open panoramic showcasing the archipelago s geologic origins was organically displayed in the warming hues of an equatorial sun. Sitting back on the Letty s upper level sun deck following yet another day s adventurous passing, I m UPPER LEFT Daily excursions aboard the Letty provide for an intimate and personal viewing experience. Here ecotravelers ponder the mating rituals of the red-footed boobie, up close and personal. BOTTOM LEFT The Galapagos fur seal was hunted to near extinction. Having made a comeback, these beautiful creatures are among the shiest of all Galapagos animals. 290 COAST DECEMBER 2006

4 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:30 AM Page 291 Showcasing but a small collage of the incredible wildlife that proliferates on the islands of the Galapagos: [CLOCKWISE] a wild flamingo, giant tortoise, flightless cormorant, a sally lightfoot crab, and the infamous frigate. COAST DECEMBER

288-293 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:30 AM Page 292 hard pressed to think of a better spot to be.

intrigue and dynamic physical presence is all the more impressive in person.

5 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:30 AM Page 292 hard pressed to think of a better spot to be. It s one thing to watch The Discovery Channel in the comfort of one s home and muse at the beauty and splendor of such an exotic locale but the Galapagos combination of physical adventure, scientific intrigue and dynamic physical presence is all the more impressive in person. From pirates and whalers to Darwin, the chronological history of the Enchanted Isles is as diverse as it is symbolic of man s evolutionary tour here on earth as the Galapagos go, so too will we. The natural history of these islands is eminently curious and well deserves attention, wrote Darwin. Both in space and time, we seem to be brought somewhat near to the great fact that mystery of mysteries the first appearance of new beings on this Earth. Having come full circle, circumnavigating the archipelago, I felt relieved in knowing that despite pressures from the modern world, Las Encantadas will forever be a place where man s presence takes a backseat to the infinite power of nature and its ultimate dominance over all. For more information, call (800) or visit LEFT Genevosa Island female frigate striking a pose. BELOW Isla Santa Cruz. 292 COAST DECEMBER 2006

288-293 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:30 AM Page 293 LEFT The marine iguana exists

6 travel galapagos 10/5/07 11:30 AM Page 293 LEFT The marine iguana exists only in the Galapagos and is a hybrid anomaly having adapted to life both on land and at sea. BELOW Here, on the island of Espanola, we are greeted by a jovial pod of happy go lucky sea lions who ve obviously got it made. COAST DECEMBER

EVOLUTION. Charles Darwin

EVOLUTION. Charles Darwin EVOLUTION Charles Darwin Question for Thought Earth has millions of other kinds of organisms of every imaginable shape, size, and habitat. This variety of living things is called biological diversity.