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1 Industry Wage Survey Women's and Misses Coats and Suits, August 1970 Bulletin 178 u S DEPARTMENT OF LABOR Bureau of Labor Statistics 197 Dayton & M ontgom ery Co. Public Library MAR DOCUMENT COLLECTION

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3 Industry Wage Survey Women s and Misses Coats and Suits, August 1970 Bulletin 178 U.S. DEPARTMENT OF LABOR J. D. Hodgson, Secretary BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS Geoffrey H. Moore, Commissioner 197 For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office Washington, D.C Price 35 cents

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5 P re fa c e This bulletin summarizes the results of an August 1970 Bureau of Labor Statistics survey of occupational wages and supplementary practices in the women s and misses coat and suit industry in eight selected areas. A similar survey was conducted in August Separate releases for each of the areas surveyed were issued earlier. Copies are available from the Bureau of Labor Statistics, Washington, D.C. 01, or from any of its regional offices. The study was conducted in the Bureau s Office of Wages and Industrial Relations. The analysis in this bulletin was prepared by Homer W. Jack in the Division of Occupational Wage Structures. Field work for the survey was directed by the Bureau s Assistant Regional Directors for Operations. Other reports available from the Bureau s program of industry wage studies, as well as the addresses of the Bureau s regional offices, are listed at the end of this bulletin. iii

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7 C o n te n ts Summary... 1 Industry characteristics... 1 Products... 1 Type of shop... 1 Occupation and sex... Method of wage paym ent... Unionization... Average hourly earnings... Occupational earnings... 3 Establishment practices and supplementary wage provisions... 3 Scheduled weekly h o u rs... 3 Paid holidays... 3 Health, insurance, and vacation benefits... 3 Retirement plans... 3 Length-of-service benefits... 4 National health services plan... 4 Supplemental unemployment b enefits... 4 Table: 1. Earnings distribution: All production workers Average hourly earnings: Selected occupations... 6 Occupational earnings 3. Chicago, Kansas City, Mo. K ans Los Angeles-Long Beach, Calif New York, N.Y. All shops New York, N.Y. Regular and jobbing shops New York, N.Y. Contract shops Newark and Jersey City, N.J Paterson Clifton Passaic, N. J Philadelphia, P a.-n.j San Francisco Oakland, Calif Establishment practices and supplementary wage provisions 13. Method of wage p ay m en t Scheduled weekly h o u rs Paid holidays Health, welfare, and vacation benefits Retirement p la n s... 0 Appendixes: A. Scope and method of survey... 1 B. Occupational descriptions... 3 Page v

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9 W o m e n s and M is s e s C o a ts and S u its, A u g u s t Summary Average straight-time hourly earnings of production workers in women s and misses coats and suits manufacturing varied widely among the eight areas surveyed in August The highest average ($3.75) was recorded in the New York metropolitan area; the lowest average ($.89) was in Kansas City. (See table 1.) Since a similar survey in August 1965, wage levels had increased an average of 7 percent in the eight areas, ranging from 11 percent in Los Angeles Long Beach to 45 percent in Kansas City. Individual earnings in each area were widely dispersed at the time of the 1970 survey, reflecting such characteristics of the industry as the extensive use of incentive wage systems in most areas and the variety of skill levels required. Sewing-machine operators were numerically the most important group studied separately, accounting for slightly over two-fifths of all production workers in the survey. Among the occupations selected for separate study, machine pressers usually had the highest average earnings, ranging from $4.50 an hour in Kansas City to $6.47 an hour in Chicago. Thread trimmers averaged the least in most areas, ranging from $1.90 an hour in Los Angeles to $.84 in Kansas City. Virtually all of the workers covered by the survey were in shops having agreements with the International Ladies Garment Workers Union. These agreements included provisions for paid holidays, paid vacations, and various health, insurance, and retirement benefits. Industry characteristics The eight areas surveyed in August 1970 employed 33,600 of the industry s 76,000 production workers, as reported in the Bureau s employment and earnings series. New York, which had 19,000 production workers, and the nearby areas of Newark and Jersey City (5,000) and Paterson Clifton Passaic (3,500) were the leading employment centers for the industry. Together, they accounted for over four-fifths of the production workers covered by the survey. Los Angeles Long Beach, which had,00 workers, was the next largest employment center studied. Employment in the women s and misses coats and suits manufacturing industry was near its seasonal high for the year at the time of the survey about 6 percent above the year s average. Employment in the eight areas studied was down 8 percent since a similar survey in August Substantial employment declines occurred in 6 of the 8 areas during this 5-year period. In Paterson Clifton Passaic, however, the decline amounted to only percent and in Los Angeles-Long Beach employment remained virtually the same. Nationally, employment in the industry dropped 15 percent during this period. Products. Approximately four-fifths of the workers covered by the survey were in shops primarily making coats. San Francisco Oakland was the only area in which a majority of the workers were employed in plants primarily manufacturing suits. Pantsuits, a relatively new item in the industry, was the principal product of establishments employing about percent of the workers. All of these establishments were in Los Angeles Long Beach, Newark and Jersey City, and New York. Type o f shop. Three types of shops were included in the survey: (1) Regular or inside shops, which own the materials and perform all or most of the manufacturing operations; () contract shops, which process materials owned (and frequently cut) by others; and (3) jobbing shops, which contract out most manufacturing operations, but may perform such operations as cutting, finishing, or packing and shipping. Contract shops accounted for more than nine-tenths of the workers in Newark and Jersey City and Paterson Clifton Passaic, three-fourths of the workers in New York, and nearly three-fifths in Los Angeles Long Beach. Regular shops employed a large majority of the workers in the other areas. Jobbing shops were found in five areas Los Angeles Long Beach, Newark and Jersey City, New York, Paterson Clifton Passaic, and Philadelphia but their employment was relatively small. They accounted for 16 percent of the personnel in New York and for 7 percent or less in the remaining four areas. 1 See appendix A for scope and method of survey. Earnings data in this report exclude premium pay for overtime and for work on weekends, holidays, and late shifts. According to estimates from the Bureau of Labor Statistics monthly employment and earnings series. 3 For an account of the earlier survey, see Industry Wage Survey: Women s and Misses Coats and Suits, August 1965 (BLS Bulletin 1508L 1

10 Occupation and sex. Sewing-machine operators accounted for at least three-tenths of all production workers in each area. In Newark and Jersey City and Paterson-Clifton-Passaic, the proportion was as large as one-half. Sewing-machine operators worked under one of two systems: The singlehand (tailor) system, in which an individual performs all or most of the sewingmachine operations involved in making a complete garment; or the section system, where an operator s sewing is limited to a specified part, or parts, of a garment. Most of the sewing-machine operators in the San Francisco area were employed on the singlehand system; in Kansas City, Paterson Clifton Passaic, and Philadelphia virtually all operators worked on the section system. In each of the remaining areas, a large majority were employed on the section system. (See table.) Women accounted for seven-tenths of the 33,600 production workers within the scope of the survey. Only in New York were fewer than three-fourths (about 60 percent) of the workers female. Occupations primarily staffed by women included sewing-machine operators, hand sewers, thread trimmers, and final inspectors: Combined, they accounted for nearly 0,000 workers. Men represented a majority of the workers in such jobs as cutters and markers, packers, hand pressers, machine pressers, and hand and machine pressers. Method o f wage payment. Incentive workers, almost always paid individual piece rates, accounted for a majority of the workers in five areas. (See table 13.) Machine pressers, hand pressers, hand sewers, and sewing-machine operators on the section system were commonly among the workers on incentive systems. Time-rated employees made up three-fifths to fourfifths of the workers in New York, Newark and Jersey City, and Paterson Clifton Passaic. They almost always were paid according to their individual qualifications. Unionization. Collective bargaining agreements with the International Ladies Garment Workers Union (AFL- CIO) were in effect in shops employing 96 percent of the production workers covered by the study. The proportion ranged from about 85 percent in San Francisco Oakland and Los Angeles Long Beach to virtually all of the employees in Chicago, Kansas City, New York, and Paterson Clifton Passaic. Average hourly earnings Average hourly earnings of production workers increased in each of the surveyed areas since the August 1965 study.4 The increases, ranging from 11 percent in Los Angeles Long Beach to 45 percent in Kansas City, amounted to 19 percent in San Francisco-Oakland; 6 to 8 percent in Newark and Jersey City, Chicago, and New York; 31 percent in Philadelphia; and 41 percent in Paterson-Clifton-Passaic. Much of the rise in average hourly earnings was attributable to general wage adjustments negotiated during the period.5 Differences in manufacturing methods and processes are partly responsible for variations in the average earnings of the production workers. Shops in New York employed slightly over four-fifths of all sewing-machine operators in the survey using the singlehand (tailor) system and their earnings averaged $4.1 per hour, while in these same shops sewing-machine operators using the section system averaged $3.67. Similarly, in the other two areas providing comparisons, singlehand sewers averaged $3.96 in Chicago and $3.58 in Los Angeles- Long Beach, while their counterparts using the section system earned $3.67 and $3.09. Men, as a group, averaged more than women in each area; the average wage advantage for men ranged from 16 percent in Kansas City and 18 percent in San Francisco- Oakland to 38 and 40 percent in Los Angeles Long Beach and Chicago, respectively. Since the Bureau s survey in August 1965, the average pay difference between men and women declined substantially in all areas except New York, where it remained about the same. Differences in average pay levels for men and women may be the result of several factors, including variations in the distribution of the sexes among establishments. Differences noted in averages for men and women in the same job and area may also reflect minor differences in duties. Job descriptions used in classifying workers in wage surveys are usually more generalized than those used in individual establishments because allowance must be made for possible minor differences among establishments in specific duties performed. Also, earnings for some jobs in the industry are determined largely by production at piece rates. Variations in incentive earnings for individuals or sex groupings may be traceable to differences in work experience, or work flow and other factors which the worker may not control. Individual earnings ranged from less than $1.90 to $5.40 or more an hour in all areas. (See table 1.) Only in Chicago, New York, and Philadelphia were at least 4 Op. cit., BLS Bulletin A collective bargaining agreement between the ILGWU and three coat and suit manufacturing associations, covering about 4,000 workers in New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Connecticut became effective June 5, See Current Wage Developments, Nos. 34, 47, and 55. This 3-year agreement provided the following wage increases: Effective June 5, 1967, 10 percent, not to exceed $13 a week; effective June 3, 1968, 5 percent, not to exceed $8 a week. A similar agreement between the same parties became effective June 1, 1970, and generally provided for a 10-percent increase. See Current Wage Developments, No. 70. Both contracts provided for increases in craft minimums and for the right of the union to demand cost-of-living increases.

11 one-tenth of the workers paid as much as $5. The following tabulation indicates the spread in earnings for the middle half of the workers in each area: C h ic ag o... $.9-$4.08 Kansas City Los Angeles Long Beach New Y o r k Newark and Jersey C it y Paterson C lifton Passaic Philadelphia San Francisco O aklan d Occupational earnings Ten occupational classifications, accounting for a large majority of the production workers covered by the survey, were selected to represent the types of skills and manufacturing operations in the industry. Cutters and markers, the job most dominated by men, averaged from $3.99 in Kansas City and $4.05 in San Francisco Oakland to $5.37 and $5.39, respectively, in Paterson-Clifton-Passaic and New York. Machine pressers, also predominantly men, had the highest averages in four of the areas (Chicago $6.47, Kansas City $4.50, Philadelphia$5.73, and San Francisco $4.9). Cutters and markers had this distinction in Los Angeles-Long Beach ($5.16) and Newark and Jersey City ($5.3), while workers performing both hand and machine pressing averaged top pay in New York ($5.7) and Paterson Clifton Passaic ($6.1). Thread trimmers, nearly all women, had the lowest average in 5 of the 6 areas where data for the job were considered adequate for publication. Their averages ranged from $1.88 in Los Angeles Long Beach to $.84 in Kansas City. Establishment practices and supplementary wage provisions Data also were obtained on work schedules and selected supplementary wage benefits for production workers. Provisions for paid holidays, paid vacations, health and insurance benefits, mail-order prescription drugs, supplementary unemployment benefits, and retirement pensions were stipulated in collective bargaining agreements with the International Ladies Garment Workers Union, which were in effect in shops employing 96 percent of the production workers.6 Scheduled weekly hours. Work schedules of 35 hours a week were in effect in shops employing at least 85 percent of the workers in all areas and over 90 percent of the workers in five areas. (See table 14.) Forty-hour schedules applied to about 15 percent of the employees only in the Los Angeles Long Beach and San Francisco- Oakland areas. Paid holidays. Paid holiday provisions allowed for 6 days a year in Chicago,7 7 days in Kansas City, and 8 days in the remaining six areas. (See table 15.) In most areas, time workers were paid their regular rates and incentive workers were given flat amounts, varying by craft. Health, insurance, and vacation benefits. Health and insurance benefits in all areas and vacation payments in all areas except Chicago and Kansas City were provided from a health and welfare fund to which employers contributed specified percentages of their payrolls for workers covered by the union agreement. (See table 16.) The provisions included hospitalization, surgical, disability, maternity, and death benefits in all cities; eyeglass benefits in all areas except Kansas City; and medical or major medical benefits in several areas. Paternity benefits8 were also provided in New York, Newark and Jersey City, Paterson Clifton Passaic, and Philadelphia. Union health centers were maintained through employer contributions to a health center fund in five areas but not in Los Angeles Long Beach, Philadelphia, and San Francisco Oakland. Vacation benefits varied significantly among the areas by both the amount of vacation the employee received and the method of computation. (See table 16.) In Los Angeles Long Beach, for instance, employees received a vacation payment based on 4 percent of the previous year s earnings. In New York, Newark and Jersey City, Paterson-Clifton-Passaic, and Philadelphia employees received two annual payments. The first payment was percent of the previous year s earnings, not to exceed $15; the second was a flat $70. In Chicago and Kansas City the provisions were as follows: Chicago, 1 week s pay after 1 year of service and weeks after years of service; Kansas City, 1 week s pay after 1 year, weeks after 3 years and 3 weeks after 5 years. San Francisco Oakland provided 4 percent of the previous year s earnings for employees with less than 5 years of service and 6 percent for those with 5 years or more. Retirement plans. Retirement pension benefits (other than Federal social security) were provided through employer contributions to a retirement fund. (See table 17.) The amounts contributed varied among the areas from Vi to 6Vi percent of the payrolls for workers covered by the union agreements. Benefits of $85 a month were paid from the fund to qualified workers 6 Provisions differed slightly in a few shops. Among the shops contacted which did not have a contract with ILGWU, formal provisions for paid holidays and vacations were common, but insurance and pension plans were not. 7 Workers in Chicago were guaranteed xh day s pay for each holiday; those working 3 days in the holiday week received three>fourths pay, and those working 4 days received full pay. Maternity and paternity benefits are cash payments from a union fund for each child born to an ILGWU member. 3

12 over age 65 in New York, Newark and Jersey City, and Paterson Clifton Passaic and $75 a month in the other areas. In all areas, qualified workers who became totally disabled were permitted to retire with full benefits at any age and other qualified workers could retire early with reduced benefits. The fund also provided a $500 death benefit. Length-of-service benefits. In New York, Newark and Jersey City, Paterson Clifton Passaic, and in most shops in Philadelphia workers employed in a shop for at least 3 consecutive years were paid, in addition to their regular earnings, percent of their total earnings for the previous year. Such length-of-service benefits were not found in the other areas surveyed. National health services plan. In all areas, employers contributed three-eighths percent of their weekly payrolls to provide mail-order prescription drugs to workers covered by the union contract and their families. Supplemental unemployment benefits. In the eight areas studied, employers contributed one-eighth percent of weekly payrolls to a supplemental unemployment benefit fund set up under union contract, administered on a nationwide basis. 4

13 T a b le 1. E a rn in g s d is trib u tio n : A ll p ro d u c tio n w o r k e r s ( P e r c e n t d is tr ib u tio n o f a ll p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s in w o m e n 's an d m i s s e s ' c o a t an d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s b y a v e r a g e s tr a ig h t - ti m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s, 1 8 s e le c te d a r e a s, A u g u s t 1970) A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s 1 C h ic a g o K a n s a s C ity r z z A n g e le s - L o n g B e a c h A ll sh o p s N ew Y o rk R e g u la r s h o p s C o n tr a c t s h o p s N e w a rk a n d, J e r s e y C ity P a t e r s o n C lifto n P a s s a i c P h i la d e lp h ia S an F r a n c i s c o O a k la n d U n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ _ $ an d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ an d u n d e r $ _ $ an d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ _ $ an d u n d e r $ $. 00 an d u n d e r $ $.1 0 an d u n d e r $ $. 0 an d u n d e r $ $. 30 an d u n d e r $ $. 40 an d u n d e r $ $. 50 an d u n d e r $ $. 60 a n d u n d e r $ $. 70 an d u n d e r $ $. 80 an d u n d e r $ $. 90 a n d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ $ a n d u n d e r $ $ 3. 0 an d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ $ a n d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ , $ a n d u n d e r $ $ a n d u n d e r $ $ a n d u n d e r $ $ 4. 0 an d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ $ a n d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ $ an d u n d e r $ _ $ 5. 0 an d u n d e r $ $ an d o v e r T o ta l N u m b e r o f w o r k e r s ,5 8 5, , , , , , 538 1, A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a rn in g s $ $. 89 $ $ $ 4. 1 $ $ $ $ 3. 9 $ E x c lu d e s p r e m iu m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o r k on w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, an d l a te s h if t s. I n c lu d e s jo b b in g s h o p s p e r f o r m i n g s o m e m a n u f a c tu r in g o p e r a t io n s, in a d d itio n to r e g u l a r ( in s id e ) s h o p s. 3 W o rk e r s w e re d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s : 6. p e r c e n t a t $ to $ 5. 80;. p e r c e n t a t $ to $ 6. 0;. 4 p e r c e n t a t $ 6. 0 to $ 6. 60; 1.7 p e r c e n t a t $ to $ 7; a n d. 6 p e r c e n t a t $ 7. a n d o v e r. N O T E : B e c a u s e o f r o u n d in g, s u m s o f in d iv id u a l i te m s m a y n o t e q u a l 100.

14 T a b le. A v e r a g e h o u rly e a rn in g s : S e le c t e d o c c u p a tio n s ( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 1 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's an d m i s s e s ' c o a t an d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, 8 s e le c te d a r e a s, A u g u s t 1970) O c c u p a tio n a n d s e x N u m b e r of w o r k e r s C h ic a g o A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s N u m b e r o f w o r k e r s K a n s a s C ity A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s L o s A n g e le s L o n g B e a c h N u m b e r of w o rk e r s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s N u m b e r o f wo r k - e r s A ll s h o p s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s N ew Y o rk N u m b e r of w o r k e r s R e g u la r s h o p s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s C o n tr a c t s h o p s N u m b e r o f w o r k e r s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s N e w a rk a n d J e r s e y C ity N u m b e r of w o r k e r s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s P a t e r s o n C lif to n - P a s s a ic N u m b e r o f w o r k e r s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s N u m b e r of w o r k e r s P h i l a d e lp h ia A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s S an F r a n c i s c o O a k la n d C u t te r s a n d m a r k e r s $ $ $ ,0 9 7 $ $ $ $ $ $ $ I n s p e c t o r s, f in a l ( e x a m in e r s ) M en _ > W o m e n P a c k e r s, s h ip p in g P r e s s e r s, h a n d M e n W o m e n P r e s s e r s, m a c h i n e P r e s s e r s, h a n d a n d m a c h in e S e w e r s, h a n d ( f i n is h e r s ) , , M e n _ W o m e n , , " - S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s e c tio n s y s te m , , , , M e n W o m e n , , , , * - - S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s in g le - h a n d ( ta i lo r ) s y s te m , , M e n , W o m e n , , T h r e a d t r i m m e r s ( c l e a n e r s ) ' ' 1 E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, a n d la te s h if ts. I n c lu d e s jo b b in g s h o p s p e r f o r m i n g s o m e m a n u f a c tu r in g o p e r a tio n s, in a d d itio n to r e g u l a r ( in s id e ) s h o p s. 3 A ll ( o r v i r t u a l l y a ll) w o r k e r s in n e a r l y a ll a r e a s w e r e m e n. 4 A ll ( o r v i r t u a l l y a ll) w o r k e r s in n e a r l y a ll a r e a s w e r e w o m e n. N O T E : D a s h e s in d ic a te no d a ta r e p o r t e d o r d a ta th a t do n o t m e e t p u b lic a tio n c r i t e r i a. N u m b e r o f w o r k e r s A v e r ag e h o u r ly e a r n in g s

15 T a b le 3. O ccu p atio n al earnings: Chicago, III.1 (N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e e a r n i n g s of p ro d u c tio n w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' c o a t a n d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, A u g u s t 1970) N u m b e r of w o r k e r s r e c e i v in g s tr a ig h t- - tim e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s of O c c u p a tio n a n d s e x of h o u r ly $ $1. 65 $1. 70 $1. 75 $ $1. 85 $1. 90 $1. 95 $. 00 $. 10 $. 0 $. 30 $.4 0 $. 50 $. 60 $. 80 $3. 00 $3. 0 $3. 40 $3. 60 $3. 80 $4. 00 $ $ $5. 0 $ w o r k e r s e a r n in g s u n d e r and $1.65 $1,70 $1.75 $ $1.8 5 $1. 90 $ 1,9 5 $. 00 $. 10 $. 0 $.30 $.40 $. 50 $. 60 $. 80 $3.00 $3. 0 $3.40 $3.6 0 $3.80 $4. 00 $4.40 $4. 80 $5. 0 $5. 60 o v er A ll p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s 71 $ W o m e n M e n " S e le c te d p r o d u c tio n o c c u p a tio n s C u t t e r s a n d m a r k e r s ( a ll m e n ) I im e P a c k e r s, s h ip p in g ( a ll m e n ) P r e s s e r s, h a n d _ W o m e n _ I n c e n tiv e M e n ( a l l in c e n tiv e w^nrlf iar P r o ceo re m a M e n ( a l l in c e n tiv e mnrlfar ft) P r e s s e r s, h a n d a n d m a c h in e ( a l l m e n ) ( a ll in c e n tiv e w o r k e r s ) S e w e r s, h a n d ( f i n is h e r s) ( a l l w o m e n ) T i m e I n c e n tiv e S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s e c t i o n s y s te m W o m e n _ _ 1 _ In c e n tiv e _ S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s in g le h a n d ( ta i lo r ) s y s t e m M e n I n c e n tiv e T h r e a d t r i m m e r s ( c l e a n e r s ) ( a ll w o m e n ) T i m e _ I n c e n tiv e " 1 ' ' ' 1 The C hicago Standard M etropolitan S ta tistica l A rea c o n sists of Cook, D u P age, K ane, L ak e, M ch enry, and W ill C ounties. E x clu d es prem ium pay for overtim e and for work on w eekends, h o lid a y s, and late sh ifts. 3 W orkers w ere d istrib u ted a s follow s : 6 at $5. 60 to $6; at $6 to $6. 40; 7 at $6. 40 to $6. 80; 6 at $6. 80 to $7. 0; and 8 at $7. 0 and o ver. 4 In su fficien t data to w arrant publication of separate a v era g es by m ethod of w age paym ent, predom inantly tim ew o rk ers. * W orkers w ere d istrib u ted a s follow s : 1 at $6 to $6.40; 3 at $6. 40 to $6. 80; and at $6. 80 to $ W orkers w ere d istrib u ted a s follow s : 1 at $6.80 to $7.0; at $7. 0 to $7.60; at $ to $8; at $9.6 0 to $10; and at $10 to $ W orkers w ere d istrib u ted a s follow s : 4 at $6.40 to $6.80 and 3 at $6.8 0 to $ 7. 0.

16 T a b le 4. O ccupational earnings: K ansas City, M o. Kans.1 ( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s of p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' c o a t a n d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, A u g u s t 1970) O c c u p a tio n a n d s e x inum Der of w o r k e r s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s $ an d u n d e r $1. 65 N u m b e r of w o r k e r s r e c e i v in g s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s of $1. 65 $1. 70 $1. 75 $ $1. 85 $ $T 79^ $. 00 $. 10 $. 0 $. 30 $.4 0 $. 50 $. 60 $. 70 $. 80 $3. 00 $370 $3. 40 $3. 60 $3. 80 $4. 00 $4. 40 $4. 80 $5. 0 $1. 70 $1. 75 $ $ $1. 90 $ $. 00 $. 10 $. 0 $. 30 $.4 0 $. 50 $. 60 $. 70 $. 80 $3. 00 $3. 0 $ $3. 60 $3. 80 $4. 00 $4. 40 $4. 80 $5. 0 o v e r a n d A ll p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s 1, 585 $ W o m e n 1, _ M e n S e le c te d p r o d u c tio n o c c u p a tio n s C u t te r s a n d m a r k e r s _ W o m e n ( a ll t i m e - w o r k e r s ) _ M e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) I n s p e c t o r s, f in a l ( e x a m in e r s ) W o m e n ( a ll t i m e - w o r k e r s ) P a c k e r s, s h ip p in g W o m e n ( a ll t i m e - w o r k e r s ) P r e s s e r s, h a n d ( a ll w o m e n ) _ I n c e n tiv e P r e s s e r s, m a c h in e W o m e n ( a ll t i m e - w o r k e r s ) M e n I n c e n tiv e S e w e r s, h a n d ( f i n is h e r s ) (all wnm fin ) _ 1 _ _ I n c e n tiv e _ 1 _ - _ S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s e c tio n s y s te m W o m e n _ T i m e I n c e n tiv e _ - _ T h r e a d t r i m m e r s ( c l e a n e r s ) I n c e n tiv e T h e K a n s a s C ity S ta n d a r d M e tr o p o lita n S t a tis t i c a l A r e a c o n s is t s of C a s s, C la y, J a c k s o n, a n d P l a tte C o u n tie s, M o. ; a n d J o h n s o n a n d W y a n d o tte C o u n tie s, K a n s. E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, a n d la te s h if t s. 3 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s f o llo w s : 10 a t $5. 0 to $5. 60; 4 a t $5. 60 to $6 ; 3 a t $6 to $6. 4 0; a n d 1 a t $6. 40 to $

17 T a b le 5. O ccu p atio n al earnings: Los A ng eles Long B each, C a lif.1 ( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n in g s o f p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' c o a t a n d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, A u g u s t 1970) O c c u p a tio n a n d s e x A ll p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s - W o m e n M e n N u m b e r A v e ra g e of h o u r ly w o r k e r s e a r n in g s N u m b e r of w o r k e r s r e c e i v in g s tr a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n in g s o f $1.6 5 $1.70 $ $ $ $ 1.90 $1.9 5 $.00 $.10 $.0 $.3 0 $.4 0 $.5 0 $.6 0 $.8 0 $ $ 3. 0 $ $ $ $ $4.40 $4.8 0 $5. 0 $5.60 an d an d $1.70 $1.75 $1.80 $1.85 $1.90 $1.95 $.00 $.10 $.0 $.30 $.40 $.50 $.60 $.80 $3.00 $3.0 $3.40 $3.60 $3.80 $4.00 $4.40 $4.80 $5.0 $5.60 ov er, 16 $ , ~ S e le c te d p r o d u c tio n o c c u p a tio n s C u t te r s a n d m a r k e r s - M e n I n s p e c t o r s, f in a l ( e x a m in e r s ) ( a l l w o m e n ) 4a / - P a c k e r s, s h ip p in g ( a l l m e n ) ( a l l t im e w o r k e r s ) P r e s s e r s, h a n d I n c e n t iv e M e n T i m e - I n c e n t iv e - P r e s s e r s, m a c h i n e - W o m e n I n c e n t iv e - M e n ( a l l in c e n tiv e w o r k e r s ) P r e s s e r s, h a n d a n d m a c h in e W o m e n 4b / M e n 4b / S e w e r s, h a n d ( f i n i s h e r s ) W o m e n T i m e I n c e n t iv e S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s e c t i o n s y s t e m W o m e n I n c e n t iv e - M e n I n c e n t iv e S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s s in g le h a n d ( ta i lo r ) s y s t e m W o m e n ( a l l in c e n tiv e w o r k e r s ) - M e n I n c e n t iv e T h r e a d t r i m m e r s ( c l e a n e r s ) ( a l l w o m e n ) g _ 4 _ g _ 11 _ 11 3 _ 4 _ 6 _ _ _ _ - _ 4 _ 1 4 _ g _. 3 _ _ _ 3 _ 1 _ 11 _ _ _ - 11 _ q i _ 4 _ 4 4 _ _ _ > _ _ ? _ _ _ g g T h e L o s A n g e le s L o n g B e a c h S ta n d a r d M e tr o p o lita n S t a ti s t i c a l A r e a c o n s is t s o f L o s A n g e le s C o u n ty. E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r tim e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, a n d l a te s h if ts. 3 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r i b u t e d a s fo llo w s : 4 a t $ to $ 6 ; 1 a t $6 to $ 6. 40; 15 a t $ to $ 7. 0; a n d 6 a t $ 7. 0 a n d o v e r. 4 I n s u f f ic ie n t d a ta to w a r r a n t p u b lic a tio n of s e p a r a te a v e r a g e s b y m e th o d of w a g e p a y m e n t; (a) p r e d o m in a n tly t im e w o r k e r s, o r (b) p r e d o m in a n tly in c e n tiv e w o r k e r s. 5 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r i b u t e d a s fo llo w s : 14 a t $ to $ 6 ; 13 a t $ to $ 7. 0; a n d 6 a t $ 7. 0 a n d o v e r. 6 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r i b u t e d a s fo llo w s : 4 a t $ to $ 6, a n d a t $6 to $

18 T a b le 6. O ccupational earnings: N e w York, N.Y All shops ( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s o f p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' c o a t a n d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, A u g u s t 1970) O c c u p a tio n a n d s e x N u m b e r o f w o r k e r s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n i n g ^ $ an d u n d e r $ N u m b e r o f w o r k e r s r e c e i v in g s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s o f $ 1.90 $.00 $.10 $.0 $.4 0 $.6 0 $.8 0 $ $ 3. 0 $ $ $ $ $ 4. 0 $ $ $ $ $ $ $ 6.0 $ $ $ $.00 $.10 $.0 $.4 0 $.60 $.8 0 $ $ 3. 0 $ $ $ $ $ 4. 0 $ $ $ $ $ $ $ 6.0 $ 6.60 $ $ o v e r an d 1 8, 940 $ ,438 1,337 1,065 1,00 1, ,305 1,151 1, ' , ,0 1, , , M e n , ' S e le c te d p r o d u c tio n o c c u p a tio n s C u t te r s a n d m a r k e r s , W o m e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) IvICH. 1, _ , _ I n s p e c t o r s, f in a l ( e x a m i n e r s ) W o m e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) M e n ( a ll t im e w o r k e r s ) P a c k e r s, s h ip p i n g W o m e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) M e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) P r e s s e r s, h a n d W o m e n T im e M e n _ T i m e _ I n c e n tiv e P r e s s e r s m a c h in e _ M e n _ T i m e I n c e n tiv e P r e s s e r s, h a n d a n d m a c h in e ( a ll m e n ) T i m e _ I n c e n tiv e _ S e w e r s, h a n d ( f i n is h e r s ) , W o m e n , T i m e _ 3 _ I n c e n tiv e , _ M e n T i m e S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s e c tio n s y s t e m , W o m e n , T im e , _ I n c e n t i v e , M e n _ T i m e I n c e n tiv e S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s in g l e - h a n d ( ta i lo r ) s y s t e m , _ I l l W o m e n , % T i m e _ I n c e n t i v e _ M e n , T i m e _ 6 _ I n c e n t i v e T h r e a d t r i m m e r s ( c l e a n e r s ) W o m e n T i m e I n c e n tiv e " " - 3 " " 1 T h e N ew Y o rk S ta n d a r d M e tr o p o lita n S t a t i s t i c a l A r e a c o n s is ts of N ew Y o rk C ity (B ro n x, K in g s, N ew Y o rk, Q u e e n s, a n d R ic h m o n d C o u n tie s ), N a s s a u, R o c k la n d, S u ffo lk, a n d W e s t c h e s t e r C o u n tie s. E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, a n d la te s h if ts, '< ' > 3 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r i b u t e d a s fo llo w s : 30 a t - $ to $ 7. 80; 3 a t $ 9 to $ ; a n d 1 a t $ $ * " V

19 T ab le 7. O ccu p ation al earnings: N ew Y ork, N.Y Regular and jobbing shops ( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s of p ro d u c tio n w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' c o a t a n d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, A uguaij$1970) N u m b e r of -w o r k e r s r e c e iv in g s tr a ig h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n in g s of- $1.80 $1.90 $.00 $.10 $.0 $.40 $.60 $.80 $3.00 $3.0 $3.40 $3.60 $3.80 $4.00 $4.0 O c c u p a tio n a n d s e x of h o u r ly $4.40 $4.60 $4.8 0 $5.00 $5.40 $5.80 $ 6.0 $6.60 $7.00 $7.40 w o r k e r s e a rn in g s * u n d e r - an d $1.90 $.00 $.10 $.0 $.40 $.60 $.80 $3.00 $ 3. 0 $3.40 $3.60 $3.80 $4.00 $4.0: $4.40 $4.60 $4.80 $5.00 $5.40 $5.80 $ 6.0 $ 6.60 $7.00 $7.40 o v er A ll p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s , 596 $ W o m e n _ M e n , no S e le c te d p r o d u c tio n o c c u p a tio n s C u t te r s a n d m a r k e r s q n L A L 'i A L 7 ( DU T im e I n s p e c t o r s, f in a l ( e x a m i n e r s ) _ M e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) _ _ _ P a c k e r s, s h ip p in g W o m e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) M e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) P r e s s e r s, m a c h in e ( a ll m e n ) _ 34 T im e _ P r e s s e r s, h a n d a n d m a c h in e ( a ll m e n ) _ _ 4 6 T im e _ L o S e w e r s, h a n d ( f i n i s h e r s ) W o m e n T i m e _ I n c e n tiv e _ M e n T im e _ S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s e c t i o n s y s te m _ - _ S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s in g le h a n d ( ta i lo r ) s y s t e m M e n T im e _ 6 I n c e n tiv e " " - - ~ w 1 T h e N e w Y o r k S ta n d a r d M e tr o p o lita n S t a ti s t i c a l A r e a c o n s is t s of N ew Y o rk C ity ( B r o n x, K in g s, N ew Y o r k, Q u e e n s, a n d R ic h m o n d C o u n tie s ), N a s s a u, R o c k la n d, S u ffo lk, a n d W e s tc h e s te r C o u n tie s, E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, a n d l a te s h if ts. 3 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r i b u t e d a s fo llo w s : a t $ to $ 8. 0, a n d a t $8. 0 to $ I n s u f f ic ie n t d a ta to w a r r a n t p u b lic a tio n o f s e p a r a te a v e r a g e s by m e th o d of w a g e p a y m e n t, p r e d o m in a n tly in c e n tiv e w o r k e r s.

20 T a b le 8. O ccupational earnings: N ew York, N.Y C ontract shops ( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s of p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' c o a t an d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, A u g u s t 1970) O c c u p a tio n a n d s e x N u m b e r o f w o r k e r s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a rn in g s $ 1.80 an d u n d e r $ 1.90 $ $.00 fz T T J f Z 7ZTT p r w N u m b e r of w o r k e r s r e c e iv in g s tr a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n in g s of---- J T M $ J T J J 5 J J A 0 $ $ J O U $ f 4 ^ 0 T o u $ $ J ^ 8 0 $.00 $.10 $.0 $.4 0 $.60 $.8 0 $ $ 3. 0 $ $ $ $ $4. 0 $4.40 $ $ $ $ $ $ 6. C $ $ $ o v e r $ O o $ $ $ an d A ll p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s , 344 $ L, 307 1, , , W o m e n , L, M e n , S e le c te d p r o d u c tio n o c c u p a tio n s C u t te r s a n d m a r k e r s _ _ W o m e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) M e n _ T im e _ I n s p e c t o r s, f in a l ( e x a m i n e r s ) W o m e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) M e n ( a ll t i m e w o r k e r s ) P r e s s e r s, h a n d W o m e n I n c e n tiv e _ M e n _ T im e _ I n c e n t iv e _ P r e s s e r s, m a c h i n e _ M e n _ T im e _ I n c e n tiv e P r e s s e r s, h a n d a n d m a c h in e ( a ll m e n ) _ T im e _ I n c e n tiv e _ S e w e r s, h a n d ( f i n i s h e r s ) , W o m e n , T im e , _ I n c e n tiv e , M e n _ T i m e _ I n c e n tiv e S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s e c t i o n s y s t e m , q m e n , T im e , _ I n c e n tiv e , M e n _ iit"ie _ I n c e n tiv e S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s in g le h a n d ( ta i lo r ) s y s t e m , W o m e n , _ T i m e _ I n c e n tiv e _ M e n T im e _ I n c e n tiv e _ T h r e a d t r i m m e r s ( c l e a n e r s ) W o m e n T i m e I n c e n t i v e " 1 T h e N ew Y o rk S ta n d a r d M e tr o p o li t a n S t a t i s t i c a l A r e a c o n s is t s of N ew Y o rk C ity ( B r o n x, K in g s, N ew Y o rk, Q u e e n s, a n d R ic h m o n d C o u n tie s ), N a s s a u, R o c k la n d, S u ffo lk, and W e s t c h e s t e r C o u n tie s. E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o r k o n w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, a n d l a t e s h if t s. 3 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r i b u t e d a s f o llo w s : 4 a t $ to $ ; 3 a t $9 to $ ; a n d 1 a t $ to $

21 T a b le 9. O ccupational earnings: N ew ark and Jersey City, N.J.1 (N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n in g s of p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' c o a t a n d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, A u g u s t 1970) O ccu p atio n and sex N u m b e r of w o r k e r s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s $1.60 an d u n d e r $ $1.70 $1.70 $1.75 $ $ $ $ $ $1.9 0 $ 1.90 $ N u m b e r of w o r k e r s r e c e i v in g s tr a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n in g s of $ $.00 $.0 $.3 0 $.4 0 $.5 0 $.6 0 $.8 0 $ $ 3. 0 $ $.00 $.1 0 $.0 $.3 0 $.4 0 $.5 0 $.6 0 $.8 0 $ $ 3. 0 $ $3.6 0 $ $ $4.0 0 $ $4.8 0 $5. 0 $5. 0 $ $5.6 0 $6.00 $6.00 an d o v e r M l p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s - W o m e n M e n , 004 4, $ S e le c te d p r o d u c tio n o c c u p a tio n s C u t te r s a n d m a r k e r s ( a l l m e n ) ( a l l tim e w o r k e r s ) I n s p e c t o r s, f in a l ( e x a m i n e r s ) W o m e n 4a / P r e s s e r s, h a n d W o m e n 4b / M e n T i m e I n c e n t iv e P r e s s e r s, m a c h i n e M e n I n c e n tiv e P r e s s e r s, h a n d a n d m a c h in e ( a ll m e n ) I n c e n t iv e S e w e r s, h a n d ( f i n i s h e r s ) W o m e n T i m e I n c e n t iv e M e n % / S e w in g - m a c h in e o p e r a t o r s, s e c t i o n s y s t e m W o m e n T i m e I n c e n t iv e M e n T i m e I n c e n t iv e T h r e a d t r i m m e r s ( c l e a n e r ^ W o m e n ( a l l tim e w o r k e r s ) , 515, 338 1, T h e N e w a rk a n d J e r s e y C ity S ta n d a r d M e tr o p o lita n S ta ti s t i c a l A r e a s c o n s is t of E s s e x, H u d so n, M o r r i s, a n d U n io n C o u n tie s. E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r tim e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, a n d la te s h if ts. 3 A ll w o r k e r s w e r e a t $6 to $ I n s u f f ic ie n t d a ta to w a r r a n t p u b lic a tio n o f s e p a r a te a v e r a g e s b y m e th o d of w a g e p a y m e n t; (a) p r e d o m in a n tly t im e w o r k e r s, a n d (b) p r e d o m in a n tly in c e n tiv e w o r k e r s. W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r i b u t e d a s fo llo w s : a t $6 to $ 6. 40, a n d 4 a t $ to $ W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r i b u t e d a s fo llo w s : 7 a t $6 to $ ; 10 a t $ to $ ; a n d 8 a t $ 7. 0 a n d o v e r. 7 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s : a t $6 to $ 6. 40; a t $ to $ 6. 80; a t $ 7. 0 to $ a n d 6 a t $ a n d o v e r. W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s : a t $ to $ 6. 80; 4 a t $ to $ 7. 0; a n d 4 a t $ a n d o v e r.

22 T a b le 10. O ccupational earnings: P aterso n Clifton Passaic, N.J.1 ( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s of p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' c o a t a n d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, A u g u s t 1970) O ccupation and sex Num ber A v e r a g e $ 0 5 of h o u r ly w o r k e r s e a r n in g s U nder $ $ 1.80 $1.80 $1.85 $ 1.85 $ WJ5 $1.90 $1.95 $. 0 0 $.0 0 $.1 0 Num ber of w o rk ers receiv in g stra ig h t -tim e hourly earnings of $.1 0 $. 0 $.3 0 $.4 0 $.5 0 $. 6 0 $.8 0 $ $3. 0 $ $ $ $. 0 $.3 0 $.4 0 $.5 0 $.6 0 $.8 0 $ $ 3. 0 $ $ $3.8 0 $ $ $ $ $ $ $ 5. 0 $ 5. 0 $ $5.6 0 $6.0 0 $ $ 6.40 $6.4 0 and o v er A ll p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s , 538 $ W o m e n , S elected production o c c u p a tio n s C u tte r s and m a r k e r s ( a ll m en ) ( a ll t im e w o r k e r s ) In sp ecto rs, final ( e x a m in e r s ) W o m e n (a ll tim e w o r k e r s ) M en ( a ll t im e w o r k e r s ) P r e s s e r s, h a n d W o m en ( a ll tim e w o r k e r s ) M e n T im e _ P r e s s e r s, m a c h in e M en T im e I n c e n tiv e P r e s s e r s, hand and m a c n in e T im e S ew ers, hand (fin ish ers ) ( a ll w o m e n ) T im e I n c e n tiv e S e w in g -m a c h in e o p e r a to r s, s e c t io n s y s t e m , n o , 6 7 W o m e n , _ - _ T im e , _ - _ - _ I n c e n tiv e T im e * i 1 1 T h e P a te r son C lifto n P a s s a ic S ta n d a rd M e tr o p o lita n S ta tis tic a l A rea c o n s is t s o f B e r g e n and P a s s a ic C o u n tie s. E x c lu d e s p r e m iu m p a y fo r o v e r tim e and fo r w o rk on w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, and la te s h ifts. 3 In c lu d e s 4 w o r k e r s a t $ to $ and 7 a t $ to $ W o r k e r s w e r e d is tr ib u te d a s fo llo w s : 4 a t $ to $ 7. 0 and 4 a t $ to $ W o r k e r s w e r e d is tr ib u te d a s f o llo w s : 6 a t $ to $ 6. 80; 6 a t $ to $ 7. 0 and a t $ 7. 0 to $ A ll w o r k e r s w e r e a t $ 9. 0 to $

23 T a b le 11. O ccupational earnings: Philadelphia, P a. N.J.1 ( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s of p ro d u c tio n w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m en * s a n d m i s s e s ' c o a t a n d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, A u g u s t 1970) O ccupation and sex N u m b er of w o r k e r s A v e r a g e h o u r ly ea r n ir g s A ll p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s 1, 0 0 $ 3. 9 W o m e n _ M en S elected production o c c u p a tio n s Num ber of w o rk ers receiv in g stra ig h t -tim e hourly earnings of $ 1.60 $ 1.65 $ 1.70 $ 1.75 $ 1.80 $ $.0 0 $.1 0 $. 0 $.30 $.4 0 $.50 $.60 $.80 $ 3.00 $ 3.0 $ 3.40 $ $ 3.80 $ $ $ $ 5. 0 $ $ $ and under and $ 1.65 $ 1.70 $ 1.75 $ 1.80 $ 1.90 $.0 0 $.1 0 $. 0 $.30 $.40 $.50 $.6 0 $.80 $ 3.00 $ 3.0 $ 3.40 $ 3.60 $ 3.80 $ $ $ $ 5. 0 $ $ $ C u tte r s and m a r k e r s M en ( a ll t im e w o r k e r s ) I n s p e c to r s, fin a l ( e x a m in e r s ) W o m en ( a ll t im e - w o r k e r s ) 1. 6 M en (a ll t im e w o r k e r s ) P a c k e r s, sh ip p in g (a ll m en ) T i m e P r e s s e r s, m a c h in e M en I n c e n t i v e P r e s s e r s, h an d and m a c h in e (18 m e n and 8 w o m e n ) ( a ll in c e n tiv e w o r k e r s ) S e w e r s, h an d ( f i n i s h e r s ) W o m en T im e I n c e n t i v e S e w in g -m a c h in e o p e r a to r s, s e c t io n s y s t e m W o m e n In c e n tiv e T h r e a d t r im m e r s ( c le a n e r s ) (a ll w o m e n ) T i m e _ " - ** - " _ " _ _ _ 3 _. _ _ _. > _ 8-1 _ - 3 " _ 1 T h e P h ila d e lp h ia S ta n d a rd M e tr o p o lita n S ta tis tic a l A rea c o n s is t s o f B u c k s, C h e s te r, D e la w a r e, M o n tg o m e r y, and P h ila d e lp h ia C o u n tie s, P e n n sy lv a n ia ; and B u rlin g to n, C am den, and G lo u c e s te r C o u n tie s, N ew J e r s e y. E x c lu d e s p r e m iu m p ay fo r o v e r tim e and fo r w o r k on w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, and la te s h ift s. 3 W o r k e r s w e r e d is tr ib u te d a s fo llo w s : 14 at $ to $ ; 1 at $ to $ 7. 0 ; 5 a t $ 7. 0 to $ ; and 10 a t $ to $ 8. 4 W o r k e r s w e r e d is tr ib u te d a s fo llo w s : at $ to $ ; 8 at $ to $ 7. 0 ; 5 a t $ 7. 0 to $ ; and 10 at $ to $ 8. 5 A ll w o r k e r s w e r e a t $ to $ 8.

24 T a b le 1. O ccupational earnings: S an Francisco O akland, C a lif.1 (N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n in g s o f p ro d u c tio n w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w om en* s a n d m is s e s * c o a t a n d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, A u g u s t 1970) O ccupation and se x N u m b e r o f w o r k e r s A v e r a g e h o u r ly e a r n in g s 1 3 $ $ $ $ $ 1.85 $ $ and u n d er $ 1.70 $ 1 /7 5 $ $ $ $ $. 0 0 $. 0 0 $. 1 0 Num ber of w orkers receiv in g stra ig h t -tim e hourly earnin gs of $. 1 0 $. 0 $.3 0 $.4 0 $.5 0 $.60 $.7 0 $.8 0 $ $ 3. 0 $ $ $ $ $ 4. 0 $ $ $ $. 0 $.3 0 $.4 0 $.5 0 $. 6 0 and $. 70 $.8 0 $ $ 3. 0 $ $ $ $ $ 4. 0 $ $ $ o v e r A ll production w o rk ers $. 90 ' W o m e n M e n " S elected production o c c u p a tio n s C u tte r s and m a r k e r s M en (a ll tim e w o r k e r s ) I n s p e c to r s, fin a l ( e x a m i n e r s ) _ W o m e n _ 3 _ T i m e _ 3 _ P r e s s e r s, han d _ 4 1 _ W om en (all in cen tive w o r k e r s ) _ 1 _ 4 1 _ P r e s s e r s, m a c h in e W om en (all in cen tive w o r k e r s ) _ _ 3 S e w in g -m a c h in e o p e r a to r s, singlehand (ta ilo r ) sy ste m (a ll w o m en ) (a ll in c e n tiv e w o r k e r s ) " T h e S an F r a n c is c o O a k la n d S ta n d a rd M e tr o p o lita n S ta tis ic a l A r e a c o n s is t s o f A la m ed a, C on tra C o sta, M a rin, San F r a n c is c o, and S an M ateo C o u n tie s. E x c lu d e s p r e m iu m p a y fo r o v e r tim e and fo r w ork on w e e k e n d s, h o lid a y s, and la te s h ifts. 3 W o r k e r s w e r e d is tr ib u te d a s fo llo w s : 1 at $ 6 to $ 6. 0 ; at $ to $ ; and 1 at $ to $

25 T a b le 1 3. M e th o d o f w a g e p a y m e n t ( P e r c e n t o f p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s in w om en* s a n d m is s e s * c o a t a n d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s by m e th o d o f w a g e p a y m e n t, 1 8 s e le c te d a r e a s, A u g u s t 1970) Method of wage paym ent1 Chicago Kansas City Los A n g e le s - Long Beach A ll shops New York R egular shops Contract shops N ew ark and J ersey City Paterson Clifton Pa ssiac P hiladelphia San F rancisco Oakland All w orkers Tim e-rated w o rk e rs Fo rm al plans _ Single rate Range of r a te s Individual r a te s " Incentive w o r k e r s Individual p ie c e w o rk Group piecework Fo r definition of method of w age payment, see appendix A. Includes jobbing shops perform ing some manufacturing operations, in addition to regular (inside) shops. N OT E: Because of rounding, sums of individual item s m ay not equal totals. T a b le 1 4. S c h e d u le d w e e k ly h o u rs (Percent of production w orkers in women* s and m iss e s' coat and suit manufacturing establishm ents by scheduled w eekly hours, 1 8 selected areas, August 1970) W eekly h ou rs1 Chicago Kansas City Los A n g e le s - Long Beach A ll shops New Y ork Regular shops Contract shops N ew ark and J ersey City Paterson Clifton Pas siac P hiladelphia San F rancisco Oakland A ll w o r k e r s Under 35 h o u rs h o u r s V h o u r s _ (3) 1 _ 40 hours Data relate to predominant w ork schedule of full-tim e d ay-shift w orkers in each establishm ent. Includes jobbing shops perform ing som e manufacturing operations, in addition to regular (inside) shops. 3 L ess than 0.5 percent. N OT E: Because of rounding, sums of individual item s m a y not equal totals.

26 T a b le 15. Paid holidays ( P a id h o lid a y p r o v is io n s 1 f o r p r o d u c tio n w o r k e r s c o v e r e d b y I n te r n a t i o n a l L a d i e s ' G a r m e n t W o r k e r s ' U n io n c o n tr a c ts in w o m e n 's an d m i s s e s ' c o a t an d s u it m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s, 8 s e le c te d a r e a s, A u g u s t 1970) Num ber of holidays Method of computing pay C h ica go - 6 days annually; one-half day's pay guaranteed, threefourths day's pay for those working 3 days in the holiday week, and full pay for those working 4 days. T im ew orkers paid their regular rates; those on an incentive basis w ere paid 7 tim es their average hourly earnings during the 0 weeks ending in the first week of the previous June. K ansas C ity Los Angeles Long B e a ch - N ew ark and J ersey C ity - P a te r son Clifton P a s s a ic - Philadelphia- San Francisco Oakland 7 days annually 8 days annually 8 days annually 8 days annually 8 days annually 8 days annually 8 days annually T im ew orkers paid their regular rates; those on an incentive basis w ere paid 7 times their average hourly earnings during the year ending the previous M arch 31. T im ew orkers paid their regular rates; those on an incentive basis w ere paid amounts ranging from $17 to $0, according to craft. T im ew orkers paid their regular rates; those on tive basis w ere paid amounts ranging from $3.50, according to craft. T im ew orkers paid their tive basis w ere paid $ 3.50, according to regular rates; those on amounts ranging from craft. T im ew orkers paid their regular, rates; those on tive basis w ere paid amounts ranging from $ 3.50, according to craft. an incen- $ to an incen- $ to an incen- $ to 7 tim es w o rk ers' a verage hourly earnings. In some shops, incentive w orkers w ere paid amounts per day ranging from $ to $3. 50, according to craft. T im ew orkers paid their regular rates; those on an incentive basis w ere paid amounts ranging from $16 to $19* according to craft. In a few shops in Chicago provisions differed slightly from those shown.

27 T a b le 16. H ealth, w elfare, and vacation benefits (Health, w elfare, and vacation benefits provisions1 for production w orkers covered by International Ladies' Garm ent W orkers' Union contracts in w om en's and m isses' coat and suit manufacturing establishm ents, 8 selected,areas, August 1970) Em ployers contribution Health and w elfare benefits Vacation benefits3 Chicago 3 percent 4 Hospital, surgical, m aternity, disability, eyeglass, and death benefits; also free m edical care for union m em bers at union health center. 1 w eek's pay after 1 year and weeks after years 35 tim es a w orker's average hourly earnings during the 0 w eeks ending the first week of the previous June, if e m ployed at least 1 year; V4 week for each quarter year worked, if em ployed 6 months but less than 1 year. K ansas City V percent---- Hospital, surgical, major m edical, m aternity, disability, and death benefits, and reim bursem ent of doctor's fees; also, free m edical care for union m em bers at union health center. 1 w eek' s pay after 1 year, weeks after 3 years, and 3 w eeks after 5 yea rs. Benefits prorated for w orkers e m ployed over 6 months as of the previous April 1, a c cording to the number of months of employment. Benefits w ere based on w orker' s average hourly earnings in the year ending the previous M arch 31. L os A n geles Long B e a c h - 7 V percent---- Hospital, surgical, clinical, disability, m aternity, and death benefits. eyeglass, 4 percent of a w orker's earnings in the previous calendar year. New Y o r k percent Hospital, surgical, m ajor m edical, disability, m aternity and paternity, eyeglass, death benefits, and union health center service s. A pril payment percent of earnings in the previous c a l endar yea r up to a m axim um of $15. September payment, a flat $70. N ew ark and J e rse y C ity - 7 percent Hospital, surgical, m ajor m edical, disability, m aternity and paternity, eyeglass, death benefits, and union health center se rvices. A pril payment percent of earnings in the previous c a l endar year up to a m axim um of $15. September payment, a flat $70. Paterson Clifton P a ssa ic 7 percent Hospital, surgical, m ajor m edical, disability, m aternity and paternity, eyeglass, death benefits, and union health center se rvices. A pril payment percent of earnings in the previous c a l endar year up to a m axim um of $15. September payment, a flat $70. Philadelphia percent Hospital, m e d ic a l, surgical, m ajor m edical, disability, m a ternity and paternity, clinical, eyeglass, and death benefits. F ir s t payment percent of earnings in the previous c a l endar year up to a m axim um of $15, Second payment, a flat $70. San F ra n cisco O a k la n d - 8 V4 percent- M edical, hospital, surgical, glass, and death benefits. m aternity, disability, eye- 4 percent and 6 percent of previous year' s earnings to w orkers with less than 5 y ea rs of service and with 5 years or m ore of service, respectively. In a few shops in Chicago provisions differed slightly from those shown. E m p lo yers contributions to the health, w elfare, and vacation fund w ere based on payrolls for w orkers covered by union agreem ents. 3 Vacation benefits paid from union fund in all areas except Chicago and Kansas City where vacation paym ents w ere made by em ployers directly to the workers. 4 E m p lo yers contributed percent of weekly payrolls for w orkers covered by the agreem ents to a health fund. An additional 1 percent of payrolls for covered workers was contributed to a health center fund. 5 In one shop, 8 V percent was contributed and w orkers received 1,, or 3 annual paym ents after 1,, or 5 yea rs of service, respectively. Each payment was equal to percent of the previous year' s earnings ranging from a $10 m inim um to an $85 m axim um.

28 T a b le 17. R e tire m e n t plans (Retirem ent p ro v is io n s 1 for w orkers covered by International L ad ies' G arm ent W o rkers' Union contracts in w o m e n 's and m is s e s ' coat and suit manufacturing establishm ents, 8 selected are as, August 1970) Benefits to qualified w orkers 3 Ch icago $75 a month to qualified after age 65; totally disabled w orkers, at any age; w orkers; lum p-sum $500 death benefit. reduced benefits for earlier retirem ent K ansas City after age 65; totally disabled w orkers, at any age; w orkers; lum p-sum $500 death benefit. reduced benefits for earlier retirem ent Los Angeles-Long B e a c h - after age 65; totally disabled w orkers, at any age; w orkers; lum p-sum $500 death benefit. reduced benefits for earlier retirem ent N ew York after age 65; totally disabled w orkers, at any age; w orkers; lum p-sum $500 death benefit. reduced benefits for earlier retirem ent N ew ark and J e rse y C ity - after age 65; totally disabled w orkers, at any age; w orkers; lum p-sum $500 death benefit. reduced benefits for e arlier retirem ent P a te rs on^-clif ton P a s s ai c - after age 65; totally disabled w orkers, at any age; w orkers; lum p-sum $500 death benefit. reduced benefits for earlier retirem ent Philadelphia $75 a month to qualified after age 65; totally disabled w orkers, at any age; w orkers; lump-sum $500 death benefit. reduced benefits for earlier retirem ent San F ra n cisco Oakland $75 a month to qualified after age 65; totally disabled w orkers, at any age; w orkers; lum p-sum $500 death benefit. reduced benefits for earlier retirem ent In a few shops in Chicago provisions differed slightly from those shown. Em p loyer contributions to retirem ent fund were based on payrolls for w orkers covered by union agreem ents. Other than benefits available under Fed eral old-age, survivors, and disability insurance.

29 Appendix A. Scope and Method of Survey Scope of survey The survey included establishments primarily engaged in manufacturing women s, misses, and juniors suits and coats, except fur coats and raincoats (part of industry 337 as defined in the Standard Industrial Classification Manual, 1967, U.S. Office of Management and Budget). Shops making tailored pantsuits and coats of manmade fur (a textile product) and contract shops producing single skirts for suit manufacturers or for suit jobbers were included in the study, but regular (inside) shops and jobbing shops primarily engaged in producing single skirts and contract shops working on skirts for such establishments were excluded. The jobbing shops included in the study were limited to those which perform some manufacturing operation such as cutting, finishing, packing or shipping. The establishments studied were selected from those employing four workers or more at the time of reference of the data used in compiling the universe lists. The number of establishments and workers actually studied by the Bureau, as well as the number estimated to be within scope of the survey during the payroll period studied, are shown in table A-l. Method of study Data were obtained by personal visits of the Bureau s field staff. The survey was conducted on a sample basis. To obtain appropriate accuracy at minimum cost, a greater proportion of large than of small establishments was studied. In combining the data, however, all establishments were given their appropriate weight. All estimates are presented, therefore, as relating to all establishments in the industry, excluding only those below the minimum size at the time of reference of the universe data. Establishment definition An establishment, for purposes of this study, is defined as a single physical location where industrial operations are performed. An establishment is not necessarily identical with the company, which may consist of one or more establishments. The terms establishment and shop have been used interchangeably in this bulletin. Table A -1. Estimated number of establishments and employees within scope of women's and misses' industry survey and number studied, 8 selected areas, August 1970 coat and suit A re a 1 Number of establishments Within scope of study Actually studied To tal3 Workers in establishments Within scope of study Production workers Actually studied T o ta l3 T otal , ,90 33,630 15,1 Chicago Kansas City ,839 1,585 1,698 Los Angeles Long Beach ,57, New Y o r k ,973 18,940 5,693 Regular shops ,603 4,5 96 1,81 Contract s h o p s ,370 14,344 3,87 Newark and Jersey City ,40 5,004,603 Paterson C lifton Passaic ,80 3,5 38,099 Philadephia ,34 1,00 1,0 San Francisco Oakland Standard Metropolitan Statistical Areas as defined by the U.S. Office of Management and Budget (form erly U.S. Bureau of the daet) through January 1968 (see individual area tables for counties included in the 8 areas). Includes only shops with 4 workers or more at the time of reference of the universe data. Includes executive, professional, office, and other workers in addition to production workers. Includes jobbing shops performing some manufacturing operations, in addition to regular (inside) shops. 1

30 Employment The estimates of the number of workers within scope of the study are intended as a general guide to the size and composition of the labor force included in the survey. The advance planning necessary to make a wage survey requires the use of lists of establishments assembled considerably in advance of the payroll period studied. Production workers The term production workers, as used in this bulletin, includes working foremen and all nonsupervisory workers engaged in nonoffice functions. Administrative, executive, and professional personnel and forceaccount construction employees who were utilized as a separate work force on the firm s own properties were excluded. Occupations selected for study The occupational classification was based on a uniform set of job descriptions designed to take account of interestablishment and interarea variations in duties within the same job. (See appendix B for these descriptions.) The occupations were chosen for their numerical importance, their usefulness in collective bargaining, or their representativeness of the entire job scale in the industry. Working supervisors, apprentices, learners, beginners, trainees, and handicapped, part-time, temporary, and probationary workers were not reported in the data for the selected occupations but were included in the data for all production workers. Wage data The wage information relates to average straight-time hourly earnings, excluding premium pay for overtime and for work on weekends, holidays, and late shifts. Incentive payments, such as those resulting from piecework or production bonus systems, and cost-of-living bonuses were included as part of the worker s regular pay; but nonproduction bonus payments, such as Christmas or yearend bonuses, were excluded. Average (mean) hourly rates or earnings for each occupation or other group of workers, such as production workers, were calculated by weighting each rate (or hourly earnings) by the number of workers receiving the rate, totaling, and dividing by the number of individuals. The hourly earnings of salaried workers were obtained by dividing straight-time salary by normal rather than actual hours. Method of wage payment Tabulations by method of wage payment relate to the number of workers paid under the various time and incentive wage systems. Formal rate structures for time-rated workers provide single rates or a range of rates for individual job categories. In the absence of a formal rate structure, pay rates are determined primarily with reference to the qualifications of the individual worker. A single rate structure is one in which the same rate is paid to all experienced workers in the same job classification. Learners, apprentices, or probationary workers may be paid according to rate schedules which start below the single rate and permit the workers to achieve the full job rate over a period of time. Individual experienced workers occasionally may be paid above or below the single rate, for special reasons, but such payments are regarded as exceptions. Range-of-rate plans are those in which the minimum and/or maximum rates paid experienced workers for the same job are specified. Specific rates of individual workers within the range may be determined by merit, length of service, or a combination of various concepts of merit and length of service. Incentive workers are classified under piecework or bonus plans. Piecework is work for which a predetermined rate is paid for each unit of output. Production bonuses are based on production in excess of a quota or for completion of a job in less than standard time. Scheduled weekly hours Data on weekly hours refer to the predominant work schedule for full-time production workers employed on the day shift, regardless of sex. Supplementary benefits Supplementary benefits are presented in terms of the provisions of collective bargaining agreements with the International Ladies Garment Workers Union, which were in effect in establishments employing over ninetenths of the workers in the eight areas.

31 Appendix B. Occupational Descriptions The primary purpose of preparing job descriptions for the Bureau s wage surveys is to assist its field staff in classifying into appropriate occupations workers who are employed under a variety of payroll titles and different work arrangements from establishment to establishment and from area to area. This permits the grouping of occupational wage rates representing comparable job content. Because of this emphasis on interestablishment and interarea comparability of occupational content, the Bureau s job descriptions may differ significantly from those in use in individual establishments or those prepared for other purposes. In applying these job descriptions, the Bureau s field economists are instructed to exclude working supervisors, apprentices, learners, beginners, trainees, and handicapped, part-time, temporary, and probationary workers. Cutter and marker Marks the outlines of various garment parts on a ply of fabrics and cuts out parts with shears, hand knife, or powered cutting machine. May spread or lay up cloth on cutting table. Workers who specialize in cutting or in marking and workers engaged in marking and cutting linings and trimmings are included. Specialized markers using perforated patterns, and marking by use of talcum, are excluded as are all workers who specialize in spreading cloth. Inspector, final (examiner) Examines and inspects completed garments prior to pressing or shipping. Work involves determining whether the garments conform to shop standards of quality, and marking defects such as dropped stitches, bad seams, etc. May make minor repairs. In many shops manufacturing inexpensive garments, there will be no inspectors falling within this classification; and in those shops, whatever inspection is carried on is usually performed by thread trimmers, who may only casually inspect garments and are, therefore, excluded. Packer, shipping Prepares finished products for shipment or storage by placing them in shipping containers, the specific operations performed being dependent upon the type, size, and number of units to be packed, the type of container employed, and method of shipment. Work requires the placing of items in shipping containers and may involve one or more o f the following: Knowledge of various items of stock in order to verify content; selection of appropriate type and size of container; inserting enclosures in container; using excelsior or other material to prevent breakage or damage; closing and sealing container; and applying labels or entering identifying data on container. Packers who also make wooden boxes or crates are excluded. Presser Performs pressing operations (finish or under) on garments or garment parts by means of a handpressing iron and/or powered press or mangle. For wage study purposes, pressers are classified by type of pressing equipment, as follows: Presser, hand Presser, machine Presser, hand and machine Workers are classified as pressers, hand and machine when sizable proportions of their work are performed by each of the two methods. Otherwise, the predominant type of pressing is the determining factor in classification. Sewer, hand (finisher) (Bench worker) Performs sewing operations by hand including sewing on buttons, making buttonholes, stitching edges, closing openings that have been left by various hand and machine operations. Workers who specialize in sewing tickets or labels are excluded. 3

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