Oceanography II Notes

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1 Oceanography II Notes

2 Tides The rise and fall in sea level is called a tide. Caused by a giant wave and the gravitational pull of the moon and sun on the ocean One low-tide/high-tide cycle takes about 12 hrs and 25 min.

3 What is the Tidal Range? Tidal range is the difference in ocean level between high-tide and low-tide HT = 30 ft, LT = 20 ft HT = 20 ft, LT = 12 ft HT = 50 ft, LT = 20 ft

4 Gravitational Effect of the Moon Two big bulges of water form on the Earth: one directly under the moon another on the exact opposite side As the Earth spins, the bulges follow the moon.

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6 Gravitational Effect of the Sun 1. Spring Tides Earth, Moon, and Sun are lined up High Tides are higher and Low Tides are lower than normal

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8 Gravitational Effect of the Sun 2. Neap Tides Earth, Moon, and Sun form right angles High Tides are lower and Low Tides are higher than normal

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10 Variations in tidal form world wide

11 Tidal patterns Diurnal One high and one low tide each (lunar) day Semidiurnal Two high and two low tides of about the same height daily Mixed Characteristics of both diurnal and semidiurnal with successive high and/or low tides having significantly different heights

12 Variable Tides Datum - a reference from which measurements are made.

13 Monthly tidal curves Figure 9-16

14 semidiurnal Mixed, SD dominant Mixed, D dominant diurnal

15 Tidal bore, is a tidal phenomenon in which the leading edge of the incoming tide forms a wave (or waves) of water that travels up a river or narrow bay against the direction of the river or bay's current.

16 Bay of Fundy High tide Low tide ( 6 hours later) Video Clip:

17 Features on the Ocean Floor (Bathymetry) Bathy = deep/depth Metry = to measure

18 HMS Challenger 1 st major scientific study of the oceans Determined depth by dropping a weighted line

19 SONAR Sound Navigation and Ranging technique that uses sound propagation to navigate, communicate with or detect objects on or under the surface of the water. Provides a quick way of looking through water to identify features in and under the water (fish, sandbars, etc.)

20 P(ic)assow

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29 Continental Margin 1. Continental Shelf Submerged edge of continent Gentle slope away from shore Resources! (Gas, oil, gravel, fishing!) 2. Continental Slope Steep! Transition from shelf to deep ocean floor 3. Continental Rise Medium steep... Sediment that collects at bottom of slope

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31 Submarine Canyons Cut into continental shelf & slope! Caused by earthquakes

32 mping1.html

33

34 Ocean Basin Floor 1. Deep-Ocean Trenches Subduction zones Super deep! (<10,000m) 2. Abyssal Plains Flattest Places on Earth! Covered in sediment 3. Seamounts Submerged volcanoes 4. Guyots Inactive Seamounts Flat top from wave erosion

35 Ocean Ridges Divergent plate boundary Mountainous chain of young volcanic rock Site of hydrothermal vents

36 Atolls Ring-shaped islands of coral reefs Form on submerged inactive volcanoes

37 Ocean Basin Floor

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41 Ocean Atmosphere Circulation

42 Sea Surface Temperature

43 Ocean Salinity

44 El Nino La Nina

45 Remember normal ocean circulation?

46 El Nino? (warm) Trade winds weaken Thermocline drops Upwelling is cut off SST rises in E.Pacific High & Low pressure areas in Pacific reverse Disrupts fish/bird populations in E.Pacific Occur every 2-7 years Lasts months

47 La Nina? (cold) Trade winds strengthen SST decrease in E.Pacific Upwelling increases Occurs every 3-5 years Lasts 9-12 months

48 Prentice Hall Textbook animation link

49 Prentice Hall Textbook animation link

50 Prentice Hall Textbook animation link

51 Normal El nino strong counter-current

52 Sea surface anomalies associated with El Nino

53

54 SST differences between El Nino and La Nina

55 QUIZ! Which is which Normal, El Nino, La Nina? A B C

56 Were you re predictions correct?

57 What are the effects of El Nino?

58 Brush fires caused by drought

59 Increased Tropical Storms

60 Devastating floods

61 Winter NH El Nino La Nina

62 Summer NH El Nino La Nina

63 El nino - precipitation

64 El nino - precipitation

65 Hurricanes El Niño contributes to more eastern Pacific hurricanes and fewer Atlantic hurricanes. La Niña contributes to fewer eastern Pacific hurricanes and more Atlantic hurricanes. US hurricane damage

66 Tornado activity Depends on the location of the polar jet stream El Nino: More to the south La Nina: more to the north

67 How can we predict an El Nino or La Nina event? Measurements!

68 Buoys Measure... temperature currents winds

69 Radiosonde Weather balloon Monitors global weather and climate patterns

70 Satellites Provide data on: Rainfall Wind Ocean temp. Sea surface height Ocean color Surface currents

71 TOPEX/Poseidon (T/P)

72

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